Fuel injection relief here!

[KTPhil]

[VeeDubb steppin]

picture 1.] electric egr component ?
picture 2.] notice location of airbox on early 74 ? California ? fuel injection, it is farther back in engine compartment , and standard " S " hose fits incorrectly
3.] and 4.] electric deccel valve ...now abandoned ...where do i find a diagram for this ?
5.] is the filter box mount for the 76 -77 airbox , notice its location ...can anyone lead me to someone who may help

[/img]

[Tram]

Not Type 3 injection, but this is very cool. Not many of these early '74 injected Buses made- in fact, they are so rare I am just now learning about them! PM me your engine number. Your VIN is most definitely 1974.

I worked for VW back East - California was a place for strange people and even stranger car variants (pun intended) which is likely why I never knew about these before.

Like I said- I think your answers will be in the 1974 Type 4 L-Jet manuals. I know where one is- I am going to contact the guy who bought my 412 with the dealer injection manual in it.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[raygreenwood]

[VeeDubb steppin]

Thanks for the very interesting revelations .First off let me ask you if you may have any leads on finding the correct S hose ?Most of this system is in operable now and looks like P.O. replaced it with the later version of Deccel valve. He just didnt hook the vac to T to pressure reg. up ,.Would that work on these automatics ? As of right now , P.O. swapped in a 1978 GE engine , and mated it to the early 02 automatic trans. , it has the 022 906 021 AG ECU which is for 1978 manual trans , It has the early 6 terminal AFM with 6 terminal harness. I have a near complete parts bus with 03 automatic 1977 model Ge engine etc . What Im contemplating is putting the 7 terminal AFM and harness in using the 022 906 021 T ECU and the later Deccel valve setup. by the way I did see the strange pickup sender on bellhousing , disconnected of course .Also any idea which Car I might look for an interchangeable S bootie ? more questions to come Im sure thank you for your help as well . Please excuse my writing style , or lack thereof !

[Tram]

The guy who has my old early L Jet FI manual and sent the link to where it is posted suggested that a 914 L-Jet boot may work. I have not had a chance to look or verify.

Everett, I know this isn't Type 3 related but VDS will probably get better guidance here than in the Bay Bus forums, LOL... maybe this could stay here for awhile and then maybe get moved to the TOOB thread?
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[pupafly]

I have the same problem as Brian. Fuel leaks when I start my Type 3 after a few days exactly as Brian explained. How do I go about replacing the crimped portion. My mechanic says that I need new Injectors or change over to carbys since injectors are not available. Any help will be appreciated. Can some one supply me the necessary parts or contact details of where I can get them, thanks.
Neville

[KTPhil]

[sjbartnik]

[KTPhil]

Yup, change those hose stubs per my PM, and know that injectors ARE still available, and shops will clean and flow-test yours if you have any doubts.

[pupafly]

Thank you for all your suggestions and comments. Here in Melbourne there are very few TLEs on the road most of them have been converted to Carbys I am one of those diehards who wants to maintain originality. I have owned this car since 1998, saved it from a mechanic's yard where it was in bits and pieces and brought it back to life and used it regularly till 2007 and left it parked in the back yard till 2013 before starting a complete restoration. Since the engine was in good running condition when I parked it, I decided to leave it as is. Because of the long storage I cleaned the tank and flushed the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter in the process I noticed that the fuel hoses were a bit brittle so I asked my Mechanic to replace all the fuel lines and I have had nothing but problems since then. The car ran well till I got home a distance of 30 miles in traffic. Refused to start 4 days later, towed it back to the mechanic, replaced the cold start valve [used] new FI parts are not available here in Melbourne. Same story as before till I got home. This time fuel leaking out of the muffler back to the mechanic, replaced the Fuel pressure regulator [used] and now the same problem as Brian but only on the left side does the fuel leak first attempt in the morning. It is possible that the crimped bit of the hose may not have been replaced. I will get as much information as possible befor I go back to the mechanic. There are very few mechanics who still work on these old VWs here in Melbourne. Just in case, where can I get hold of a set of fuel Injectors please. Thanks will try and post a few photos of the TLE

[KTPhil]

More proof he is an idiot. Haphazardly replacing components at the customer's expense is no substitute for proper diagnosis and repair.

For safety, replace all hoses, leaking or not, Then do it again every 3-4 years, even with the good FI hose you should use. It takes about 25 feet of hose, and about 35 clamps. Replace your filter (above the pump), the fuel sock in the bottom of the tank, and also check/replace the fender mounted rubber at the filler; leaks here will put dirt and water into your tank and is VERY common.

Then set your fuel pressure with an inexpensive gauge made from a water pressure gauge at the home center.

At this point you are safe and can rule out fuel supply issues for years to come. And car fires!

Next, check all air hoses and wires in the engine bay.

Set the ignition dead-on.

Only then can you start suspecting FI components. The conventional wisdom here is that something like 95% of alleged FI problems will be solved by the measures above.

[Donnie strickland]

Your mechanic is guessing. There's no point in just randomly replacing parts without trying to diagnose the problem.
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[pupafly]

All hoses, filter above the pump and the fender mounted rubber at the filler have been replaced, the tank was removed and cleaned. What is the "fuel sock in the bottom of the tank"? please. I have already spent $600 in parts and labor since I replaced all hoses in May this year when my problems started.
I have time but little experience in this area, how do I go about doing what is needed without going back to my "idiot" mechanic step by step help will be appreciated. I would like to enjoy the TLE as I did before the issues started.
Thanks once again.

[pupafly]

Here are the photos of my Type 3

[KTPhil]

That is a rare bird! RHD TLE automatic! And in fine shape!

Looks like a '70 body, but with a '72+ engine, judging by the later breather setup.

[Mike Fisher]

#21 is the screen/sock that comes out when you unbolt the supply line. http://www.vwispwest.com/pg92/
Check,clean or replace your screen & test that you have about 30 lbs of fuel pressure at the test port between the injectors. You can unbolt pairs of injectors & watch them spray fuel on top of the engine to see if they are all spraying the same. Unhook the return fuel line at the engine & tank to blow some air through it to make sure it is not getting plugged up.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[Tram]

[Bobnotch]

[Tram]