truline boring bar

[rrowzee1954]

i just bought a truline boring bar dose anyone have the instruction for it . thank you rod

[nsracing]

TruLines are the creampie! I love using them.

They are probably the best tools ever invented for the VW AirCooled.
Glad to hear you got everything worked out.

[SHTUBBY]

Rod,
I have 7 Trueline Bars. If you Message me with a FAX number I'll send you a copy of the directions. Did you get a Thrust Cutter also? I can send the directions for that along also.

Steve

[rrowzee1954]

thanks for all the help , i am really picky on cutting the case . what would be the perfect diameter for a .020 and .040 bearing size for number 1,2,3 and number 4 bearing . in mm and inch's . love the bar so much bought another one lol . going to buy 3 of them so i have one set up for my 3 sizes of over size cuts . like the thrust cutter works really nice . just found out to put tape in the rear main so the part that grips dosnt mar the finish . thanks again every one , really love the help and advice . rod

[nsracing]

3 bars of the TruLInes will be really nice. Extra bars are always good for doing other stuff...Wasser case and oddball sizes.

I have made some setting tools for the TruLines awhile back. I will make more when time permits.

Sweet tool, ain't it? Now go make some money alignboring cases.

[iowa vw]

where do you get one of these bars?

[jody714]

I'd like to know where to get them too please.

Jody

[nsracing]

They are not made anymore fellas. So if you see them, jump on them.

I sold my spare set to a fella in Japan. I only have about 12 bars or so for my work.

[rrowzee1954]

keep checking ebay . they pop up on ebay about every month or so . got my last one for 250 dollors . also came with a sand seal cutter with it .

[stoneloco808]

Rather than starting another thread about the samething as the OP, anyone have a set of a set of instructions for a TruLine boring bar? I actually picked up a couple of these bars.

Also anyone know who could sharpen these cutters? I may just PM nsracing about rebuilding the sets I have.

[keifernet]

[grimace007]

nick must not be home if he has not replied yet
_________________
Brian
68 sedan

Dallas Air Coolers

[nsracing]

I was trying to catch up with machining and balancing. My PC in the garage is not hooked up yet so I can only check stuff on the computer when I pee.

I got your PM, Stone. How about you post some pics of what you got.

The TruLine came w/ different feeds and the deluxe ones are the late ones. Some also came w/ chrome bars and non-chrome ones. The latter really wore out quick so you have to make special, dedicated, endbushings for them. As far as the feed, it can also be rebushed but the more the bars are worn, the more the need to have a dedicated feed/bushing.

I have even had to grind some bars undersize and new custom bushings made. The chrome bars just last much longer and hardly wears out, so you only need 1 feed and 1 endbushing to use on several bars.

[stoneloco808]

I just replied to the PM.

I guess I will send some pics next week. I left these tools at work and I don't go back until next Thursday.

[Brer]

Along with its faithful fans, the Truline bar has many potential issues once they have been used for any length of time, which makes any used truline fairly untrustworthy without having it properly checked and measured.

1. Unlike the Porta tool, which has its bushing bathed in oil, the ground bar of the Truline runs on bronze bushings which can wear both the bushings and the precision ground bar. This can alter its running clearances and net an untrustworthy boring action and with time a completely unuseable bar.

2. the cutter adjusting system is worthless and once your cutters are worn or sharpened cannot be used. A secondary system for measuring your cutter adjustment is absolutely necessary.

Personally, I would not use ANY Truline without first having its bushing clearance and bar condition inspected. Then I would get a dial measuring tool from Don at Bugpatch to set the cutters up properly.

These tools have been out of production for a long time, and if not in cherry condition shouldn't be trusted in my opinion. Apologies to the lovers of this bar, but these are real concerns for any precision tool.

Get it checked and party on!


_________________
Brer

-- "the problem isn't in the design" ----

[nsracing]

I will put the TruLine against anyone's Porta-Tool out there. If you are a machinist, you will know why the TruLIne is much better.

YOu gotta be foolish to think just because the bar is bathed in oil that it is accurate. It still rides on a bushing (cast iron body) doesn't it? ONce that wears out are you going to buy another body or rebush?

Of course you gotta check the tolerance of the precision tool...any precision tool for that matter. That is why there are "standards" to zero mics and so on. Same w/ boring tools. If the bushings are loose WTF kind of tolerance you think you are going to get??

Got to make sure the bushings are good and the bar is good. If the bar or bushings are worn, then you have to make new bushings and prep the bar accordingly so the tolerance is slide-fit. This is standard practice in precision boring of this type of work.

The Truline bar is 1.5 inch minus 0.010. The PortaTool is 1 inch. Which one do you think is more rigid? Have you never heard of tool-flex?

And what is wrong w/ the bits on the TruLine? It is not that hard to hone carbide bits w/ diamonds. YOu gotta understand tooling and toolbit design so you can appreciate how much thought went into the TruLIne.

Let me just ask you how accurate you think you can get w/ the PortaTool?

I get 5/10,000 inch or less accuracy on the bore size, same for out-of-round. Super fine finish also. Mains alignment/deviation is 1/1000 inch. I have owned the PortaTool. Could not get it accurized as good as the TruLIne.

If the chips come out stringy, then you have a tool. If the chips come out powdery, then that tool is not up to par.

[Brer]

People have been swearing by them because of the larger bar diameter. But like good quality original VW parts, the chances of picking up a unit that is serviceable as-is are gone. I've tried, and this is what i've seen on the past 3 bars I've picked up. They all had the same problems with the wear and cutter issues described above. The same issues you've pointed out yourself. The bar wears directly on the bushings and there is a finite amount of times you can use that bar without completely rebuilding it.

Regrind the bar, rebush the body, and then test and retest to make sure its done correctly is standard Practice? For vintage worn out tools sure, but a bar that runs on a bronze bushing bathed in oil, like newer bars, will remain accurate longer.

The issue of the cutter adjustment stems from the fact that those cutters were supplied in exact lengths. How do you use the backside micro adjuster system once the cutter has been sharpened and effectively shortened? So you buy new cutters that are the exact length, but Where? and can they be trusted? No, which is why you cut and measure to adjust right?

Share your experiences and preferred method on this point.

If you have a way to verify adjustment fine, but you're not doing it with the fiddly supplied system. I found it to be trial and error which is why you need a bar for each size you intend to cut. Once you get the bar set up right for one size you're not changing it unless you absolutely have to. So, in a world of finite Trulines you are put in a position of finding, reparing, adjusting and testing multiple bars that may or may not need to be rebuilt. That whole process of finding and maintaining multiple bars is the deal breaker for me.

I understand your point about the 1.5" bar, but I have no problem cutting only .010" of aluminum with a 1" bar. Its not steel, its a fine line of aluminum and my case measures and looks perfectly because I use new carbide cutters with the correct shape. That 1.5" size has been the single reason many have sworn by it despite its delicate drive system and cutters issues, but they are all are worn now, and either rebuilt or needing rebuilding to continue service. Not worth trusting without checking out first, like we both agree.


Preferences aside, these issues should be out there for consideration by others who are about to spend the money these bars are sold for.
_________________
Brer

-- "the problem isn't in the design" ----

[nsracing]

Brer,

To begin w/ the length of the bit does not matter. I do not use or care to use those mic adjusters it came w/ the tool for sizing the bores. I do use them to push the bits up..is all. I made my own from true micrometer heads. Then I machined a body that will measure the final "stick-out". The body has a radius bottom that will fit the bar. YOu just measure the stick-out w/ that.

To set the bearing crush, all you gotta do is make a trial pass undersized...say within 0.005 inch undersized. Then measure the bores w/ a dialbore gauge. ONce you see how close you are to the final size, just move the bits up a little. I have a 1/10,000 inch dial gauge for this final adjustment. I set the bits to within 0.0005" variation...try to keep it under that. Make another pass and measure the final bore w/ a dialbore gauge.

If you are happy w/ the bearing crush, then that is that. If not, just adjust a little more. But by the first trial pass, it is walk in the park to creep up to the final size. Just make sure you know where your "peaks" on the bits when adjusting.

While you say is true that some bars wear out and might have to regrind and make new bushings, well there is no way around that. I own only the Chromed ones. Took me forever to collect but I did it. The chromed ones last much longer and rarely ever wears out.

I use Aluminum Bronze for bushings and the sized by rod hone to slide-fit. If you have ever felt a new piston pin go through its bore...that is slide-fit. YOu have to machine the bushings w/ reliefs so it does not bind when you hook them up to the case.

The TrueLine does NOT skip on its cuts since it is screw-fed. The POrtaTool is hydraulic and does skip. You and I know that if a cut skips makes one ugly inaccurate bore. I mean you have 4 cutters cutting over 0.010 each simultaneously. You better have a nice way to pull to bar/cutters over. Leadscrew makes the most sense.

I also make the endbushings and body. They are much longer than came w/ the kit. This is I can visualize the end of the cut. As you do not want to crash the gears when you bottom out. And you never want to bottom out..ever.

I have several bars all dedicated cuts. Sizes all the way to 0.080" and 3 dedicated feeds to which bars. I also have other bars sized for 411 mains center only + 0.010" or 0.020" oversized...or all 3 mains. some are mixed sizes. For 411 size, I just rough cut w/ a portable boring bar like a Kwik Way or Van Norman ..for V8s..then run the final pass w/ the TruLIne.

I intend to make bars sometime w/ indepenent MicroBore adjusters. I have bought a few of these cutters and will install them in newer bars. I want to make newer and thicker bars w/ completely different feeds for future. The chrome bars will last awhile so it is a none-issue at this point.

There are pics in my gallery for linebore stuff.

cheers.

[metalchomper]

Not that hard to adjust. I use one bar to cut all the different size bearings available. I use a magnetic base and indicator set on the bar itself to make my adjustments. I have the components to make the set tool as Nick described but haven't had the time to make one yet.
_________________
Brett

Devil Dog Dubs

I live vicariously through me

'62 Beetle, "Zombie Mojo"
'68 Manx II "Conundrum"
'72 SB "Luftwaffle", 2270 T4
'75 SB Wizard Rodster "Olympias" (Mrs. Metalchomper's car)

[germansupplyscott]

i just bought one of these. at the risk of sounding clueless, i have no idea how the feed is supposed to work. can someone explain this?i have a photo of some rudimentary instructions, that's all i have at the moment.

the small diameter rod inside the feed mech, is this the part that will feed the bar? when you push the small button on the feed mech, what is supposed to happen?

i am going to measure the bar and bushings and decide from there if it needs to be reconditioned. the shop who does crankshafts for us can grind and plate it back to spec, i was thinking this would be the way to go, first off i would have the bushings checked and/or honed perfect, then get the bar made to suit the new bushing size (if the bushing needs honing that is).

NSracing, what is the spec for clearance between the bar and bushings?
_________________
SL