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This is a leaded question
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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:40 pm    Post subject: This is a leaded question Reply with quote

What are we using as a substitute for lead in the fuel.

also

Do we use non detergent oils?

Any help here would be great....gettn pumpted about THING season.

Thanks
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Ferretkona
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Newer valves are unleaded friendly.

Unless you buy non detergent oils on purpose, motor oil is normally detergent added.
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"We" are not using lead or substitutes... we are also smart enough to use detergent oil. Very Happy
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Ferretkona
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Towel Rail wrote:
"We" are not using lead or substitutes... we are also smart enough to use detergent oil. Very Happy


I thought all multi grade oils were detergent oil. I have only used Mobil one for the last 20 years anyway.
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ferretkona wrote:
I thought all multi grade oils were detergent oil.


I've never seen a non-detergent multiweight, so you're probably right.
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1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car

049 > 070 > 053 > 009
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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought with our sub-standard oil 'filters' it might be a great idea not to disturb the crap in the motor with detergent...

If I don't put new valves, guides and seats in the heads...I assume I have to dilute the gas tank with a little something.
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uberautowerks
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, since the late 60's (I think) VW used unleaded compatible valve-train parts.
So... no lead substitute needed.
If your really worried about detergent oil, use it, change it after a couple hundred and repeat a couple of times to remove said crap, then go back to a normal routine.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naphthalene is your friend. Octane is more important.
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vmx12vmx12vmx12 wrote:
I thought with our sub-standard oil 'filters' it might be a great idea not to disturb the crap in the motor with detergent...


Detergent oil isn't *so* amazing that it'll loosen all the crap in your engine at once and clog up the whole works -- look at how many modern cars have "sludge" problems, and they're using detergent oil!

In fact, unless you use an oil with an extremely high detergent content, I doubt it'll do anything with the stuff that's already deposited. The value in detergent is to keep "new" contaminants from depositing.

The real solution for us is full-flow filtering. (And Vanilla Porter.) Cool

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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK...thanks for the help.

I do need to use high test I believe. The owners manual asks for 91 octane. After all...all these stock high performance stock 1600's need all the octane it can get, high compression and all. (yes that is sarcasm)
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vmx12vmx12vmx12 wrote:
OK...thanks for the help.

I do need to use high test I believe. The owners manual asks for 91 octane. After all...all these stock high performance stock 1600's need all the octane it can get, high compression and all. (yes that is sarcasm)


The owner's manual calls for 91 RON octane. If your pumps say "RON" on them, then go with that. At least here in the States, we use a slightly different method of calculating octane, which yields slightly lower numbers. So "our" 87 octane is just right. Smile
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1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car

049 > 070 > 053 > 009
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kendal is the racer's choice. Castrol 20-50 is the old school VW oil of choice. Taking the "crap" out of an ole engine is the best path to premature failure; I do not know "RON 91" personally but I have a 1915cc / dual baby dells with a 9.4:1 compression that is all over @4K rpm and it turns 110 hp and 125 ft/lbs torque on the dyno at the wheels using pump gas. But then again that was achieved doing careful planning and exact motor building/ As the Spring comes about, I am going for a new motor for my 79 Bus and it will run Castrol 20-50 and burn pump gas and it will run for 100's of thousands of miles/ Flushing an old ufamiliar motor is like foresaking a life-long friend.
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Ian Epperson
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found on Wikipedia:

Someone on Wikipedia wrote:
In the United States and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2,and even deliver 98. (RON)
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