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vmx12vmx12vmx12 Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2005 Posts: 155 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:40 pm Post subject: This is a leaded question |
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What are we using as a substitute for lead in the fuel.
also
Do we use non detergent oils?
Any help here would be great....gettn pumpted about THING season.
Thanks _________________ "Don't you say another word about dat boy. Fact'o business, don't you say another word to me. I ain't listening to you no more mmmhhmm"---Slingblade---"I like them French fried potaters" |
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Ferretkona Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2005 Posts: 1306 Location: Columbia, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Newer valves are unleaded friendly.
Unless you buy non detergent oils on purpose, motor oil is normally detergent added. |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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"We" are not using lead or substitutes... we are also smart enough to use detergent oil. _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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Ferretkona Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2005 Posts: 1306 Location: Columbia, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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Towel Rail wrote: |
"We" are not using lead or substitutes... we are also smart enough to use detergent oil. |
I thought all multi grade oils were detergent oil. I have only used Mobil one for the last 20 years anyway. |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Ferretkona wrote: |
I thought all multi grade oils were detergent oil. |
I've never seen a non-detergent multiweight, so you're probably right. _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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vmx12vmx12vmx12 Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2005 Posts: 155 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:38 am Post subject: |
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I thought with our sub-standard oil 'filters' it might be a great idea not to disturb the crap in the motor with detergent...
If I don't put new valves, guides and seats in the heads...I assume I have to dilute the gas tank with a little something. _________________ "Don't you say another word about dat boy. Fact'o business, don't you say another word to me. I ain't listening to you no more mmmhhmm"---Slingblade---"I like them French fried potaters" |
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uberautowerks Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2005 Posts: 1600 Location: Longmont Co
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 9:46 am Post subject: |
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Nope, since the late 60's (I think) VW used unleaded compatible valve-train parts.
So... no lead substitute needed.
If your really worried about detergent oil, use it, change it after a couple hundred and repeat a couple of times to remove said crap, then go back to a normal routine. _________________ --- The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.
- Douglas Adams -
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'74 Thing (White)
'71 Single cab (White too)
'70 Weekender (White three)
'05 Evolution VIII (White also!!!)
'68 F-250 (White over black) |
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Spezialist Banned
Joined: July 01, 2005 Posts: 1941
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:28 am Post subject: |
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Naphthalene is your friend. Octane is more important. _________________
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 11:11 am Post subject: |
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vmx12vmx12vmx12 wrote: |
I thought with our sub-standard oil 'filters' it might be a great idea not to disturb the crap in the motor with detergent... |
Detergent oil isn't *so* amazing that it'll loosen all the crap in your engine at once and clog up the whole works -- look at how many modern cars have "sludge" problems, and they're using detergent oil!
In fact, unless you use an oil with an extremely high detergent content, I doubt it'll do anything with the stuff that's already deposited. The value in detergent is to keep "new" contaminants from depositing.
The real solution for us is full-flow filtering. (And Vanilla Porter.)
_________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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vmx12vmx12vmx12 Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2005 Posts: 155 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:24 am Post subject: |
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OK...thanks for the help.
I do need to use high test I believe. The owners manual asks for 91 octane. After all...all these stock high performance stock 1600's need all the octane it can get, high compression and all. (yes that is sarcasm) _________________ "Don't you say another word about dat boy. Fact'o business, don't you say another word to me. I ain't listening to you no more mmmhhmm"---Slingblade---"I like them French fried potaters" |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:26 am Post subject: |
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vmx12vmx12vmx12 wrote: |
OK...thanks for the help.
I do need to use high test I believe. The owners manual asks for 91 octane. After all...all these stock high performance stock 1600's need all the octane it can get, high compression and all. (yes that is sarcasm) |
The owner's manual calls for 91 RON octane. If your pumps say "RON" on them, then go with that. At least here in the States, we use a slightly different method of calculating octane, which yields slightly lower numbers. So "our" 87 octane is just right. _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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kubelmann Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2003 Posts: 3266
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:54 am Post subject: |
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Kendal is the racer's choice. Castrol 20-50 is the old school VW oil of choice. Taking the "crap" out of an ole engine is the best path to premature failure; I do not know "RON 91" personally but I have a 1915cc / dual baby dells with a 9.4:1 compression that is all over @4K rpm and it turns 110 hp and 125 ft/lbs torque on the dyno at the wheels using pump gas. But then again that was achieved doing careful planning and exact motor building/ As the Spring comes about, I am going for a new motor for my 79 Bus and it will run Castrol 20-50 and burn pump gas and it will run for 100's of thousands of miles/ Flushing an old ufamiliar motor is like foresaking a life-long friend. |
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Ian Epperson Samba Member
Joined: January 12, 2005 Posts: 2262 Location: Alameda, CA
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:25 am Post subject: |
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Found on Wikipedia:
Someone on Wikipedia wrote: |
In the United States and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2,and even deliver 98. (RON) |
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