Official "What oil should I use" topic

Max Welton · Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 4:48 pm Post subject:

Is this the first drive of the season? And the difference is between last summer and today?

Max
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denver_74 · Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:32 pm Post subject:

no..i've had it on the road for a couple weeks (+/-) and its ran great. change out the oil with gtx 20-50 and it continued to run great. decided to invest in new oil with minerals and the safe choice was vr1 20-50. the engine has approx. 2000 miles on it and other than starting lil hard and feeling as if its lost some performance in runs great..idles nicely, runs smooth etc etc etc

the bug only gets driven in the spring/summer/fall months..never on really cold days

maybe i just tired and there isnt an issue...
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DarthWeber · Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:39 pm Post subject:

Forgive me but by "minerals" do you mean zinc and phosphorus? Just asking. I see you are in "northern, NY". Seems you are pretty close to Bradford, PA - Brad Penn Oil refinery. Might want to try some PennGrade 1 10W-30 oil, just a thought.
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denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:56 am Post subject:

yes minerals = zinc and phosphorus Very Happy

(thank you for the brad penn idea..i will check into into it)

i would prefer to get an off the shelf oil and not have to deal with order and delivery.

obviously designer oils are the best...and i may order in future..but for now..what to do.. what to do
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Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 20155

denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:08 am Post subject:

ok, thanks.

i assume there is not disadvantage on running "high mileage oil" in a low mileage engine....?

and i guessing that my vr1 choice is not correct??
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Glenn · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:39 am Post subject:

"High Mileage" oil is generally thicker.
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DarthWeber · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:01 am Post subject:

miniman82 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:03 am Post subject:

Jake Raby · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:03 am Post subject:

denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:07 am Post subject:

ok good information.

i guess here is the big question that will generate the most issue..the weight.

i used 20-50 because thats what dad was using..again i assumed he was either advised or he came to that conclusion on his own...

but from what i understand THAT IS WRONG WRONG WRONG? (or at least wrong for a low mileage engine)

most of the folks that i talk to with vw or air cooled engine experience (including motorcycle and corvair owners) give the rationale that you want the 50w because the engines get so hot etc etc
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DarthWeber · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:12 am Post subject:

You want to shoot for 10 psi per 1,000 rpm. Start with as light an oil as you can, 5W-30, 10W-30. Choose an oil with proper zinc and phosphorus levels. In a newer healthy engine this should be all you need.
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denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:49 am Post subject:

...that sounds great but it also sounds as if it would require some additional diagnostics..i don't have tach or pressure/temp gauges set up Rolling Eyes

valvoline zr1 makes 10w30 dino and its local

but again lnengineering said NEVER 30w blend
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Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 20155

denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:33 am Post subject:

so bottom line: i am no closer to an answer javascript:emoticon(' Shocked

')

oil is very important to an aircooled engine..it acts as lubricant and coolant...i just never really dug into the subject.. there is a lot to consider.

i wish i could put this subject to a vote javascript:emoticon(' Razz

')

"what locally available, brand/weight dino oil should he put in his engine (+/-2000 miles)... without running diagnostics?"
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DarthWeber · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:52 am Post subject:

Again, I say look into Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 oil. You are near their refinery. Go to their web site and look up their distributor list. If you have a hot rod/performance shop near you there's a good chance they carry it and have or can get 10W-30.
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denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:05 am Post subject:

(actually i just called a local truck stop and they have it in quarts)

and i want 10w30? nothing higher? despite the fact that everyone says don't use 10w30?? lol

annnnd how about the dino? is it up tp spec?
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Das Dragon · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:33 am Post subject:

denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 12:26 pm Post subject:

lol ok not everyone..many do use it and i am sure it works great

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

"What viscosity motor oil should I use?

You should always refer to your owner's manual for the recommended grade and viscosity of oil to be used in any engine (see chart above for aircooled Porsche engines). A good rule of thumb is your should always have 10psi for every 1000 rpm minimum with the engine and oil hot BUT do not run an oil too thin, as you also have to consider than a lighter oil has lower film strength when hot! It's ok to have the pressure relief bypass some of your oil with the trade-off of a higher HTHS viscosity. If you scroll back up to the top of the frequently asked questions, you'll find a chart showing viscosity recommendations for an aircooled engine which are pretty much the same as you would want to run in any vintage or performance engine unless your engine builder or the engine manufacturer states otherwise.

We are aware of the group of people who believe thinner oils are better for their engines. This is only the case if the engine is of a design requiring thinner oils or can support use of these thinner oils. Where choosing the thinnest oil to maintain the required pressure might seem logical, you have to also consider that you have a thinner oil film and lower HTHS viscosity for that thinner viscosity oil, which provides less protection in areas where metal to metal contact occurs where pressure itself only insures bearing protection, which has not been a problem we've ever experienced using higher viscosity oils like 15w40 and 20w50 viscosities. "

"Additionally, try to use a 5w40 rather than a 0w40, as the viscosity with the narrower spread will have a higher high temperature high shear viscosity and should protect critical engine parts better at the upper limits. You do not need a 0w over a 5w until cold start temperatures are under -25C. Do not run any 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 oil in your Porsche, aircooled engines included!"

i don't know noth'in.
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denver_74 · Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 3:32 pm Post subject:

i don't have a clue about oil (well, of course i understand weight etc but not specifically to bug engines)...i will be the first to admit it. i know more about motorcycles than i do bugs.

ok..so here is where i am at:

the engine was "good" with 20w50 castrol gtx (why did i use this weight and brand? because this is what my father had been using...no other reason)

having read information regarding zinc etc and having spoke to other classic car owners i decided zinc was good. and not wanting to go the additive route ..i went with an over counter oil: valvoline zr1 20w50

and there was noticeable change in engine performance. not only, did it start harder but did the engine sounded as if it was working harder annnnd to get the same performance feel that i had prior to the oil change...i really had to push the throttle.

i am sorry i don't have any firm data.

i decided i need to make a change..either go with a lighter weight or change brands and weight.

everyone has their favorite and i do consider their opinions as reliable..thank you. BUT i decided to first go with a lighter weight before i changed brands..so i grabbed some zr1 10w30 after work (yes i know what lengineering says but WTH)

before i put it in a decided to give the 20w50 one more chance: it started hard and the engine sounded like it was working hard...plus the engine got very hot in a short amount of time...noticeably hot..more so than with the castrol

out went the 20w50 in went the 10w30

annnnnnnnnnd it started easy and rev'd easy. very much the opposite of the zr1 20w50

its too early to guess whether or not this the right oil..but the initial results are promising.....

and i did find a source for brad penn in the area...but i really don't want to go with synthetic ....or semi-synthtic ..so green oil is out (why? i am old school and don't believe in them new fangled oils..its a religious thing)

any thoughts? questions or ridicules? javascript:emoticon(' Wink

')
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Official "What oil should I use" topic
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