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Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic
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SBD
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just curious. If I find older sealed bottles of oil somewhere, what designation should be on them to have enough zinc to be considered safe for flat tappet cams. Is it earlier than SM? Like SJ? I cleaned out the trunk of a VW before I sold it. It had been parked in my shop for about 14 years and had some bottles of Castrol GTX in it. Embarassed I'm guessing that it would be fine to use it (except I think it might've been 20W-50). When did they start phasing out the zinc?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SBD wrote:
Just curious. If I find older sealed bottles of oil somewhere, what designation should be on them to have enough zinc to be considered safe for flat tappet cams. Is it earlier than SM? Like SJ? I cleaned out the trunk of a VW before I sold it. It had been parked in my shop for about 14 years and had some bottles of Castrol GTX in it. Embarassed I'm guessing that it would be fine to use it (except I think it might've been 20W-50). When did they start phasing out the zinc?


The SM/SN standards don't require reduced ZDDP for oils thicker than 10w30 plus you can buy "high mileage" oils most anywhere that aren't required to meet the SM/SN standards.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've read oil has a shelf life of 5-6 years and should not be used after that. The chemicals will separate and don't just mix back together.
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SBD
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The SM/SN standards don't require reduced ZDDP for oils thicker than 10w30 plus you can buy "high mileage" oils most anywhere that aren't required to meet the SM/SN standards.
Just because the SM/SN standards for oils thicker than 10W-30 don't REQUIRE the reduced levels of zinc, that doesn't necessarily mean that the levels won't be reduced. Besides, I don't know that I really want to run an oil thicker than 10W-30 when I build a new motor anyway. Very Happy Don't most "high mileage" oils have seal conditioners in them? Is it okay to use them in a new motor or will the conditioners be bad for the new seals and gaskets? Eh?

vwracerdave wrote:
I've read oil has a shelf life of 5-6 years and should not be used after that. The chemicals will separate and don't just mix back together.
d'oh! You mean I can't just put it in a paint shaker? Laughing

Do you know of anything that backs this up? Just wondering if it's something that has any research behind it or if it's just one of those "That's what they say.." kind of things. Cool
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SBD wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
I've read oil has a shelf life of 5-6 years and should not be used after that. The chemicals will separate and don't just mix back together.
Do you know of anything that backs this up? Just wondering if it's something that has any research behind it or if it's just one of those "That's what they say.." kind of things.


I don't remember where I read that. I would send Castrol an eMail and ask them. Let us know what they say.
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SBD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might do that. Something else that occurred to me yesterday while I was working in my shop is that I've never seen any kind of expiration date on motor oil. Think If there was a real danger of the additives separating from the oil I would think there might be some mention of it on the container. Especially now when people blame everybody else for anything that goes wrong and tend to sue at the drop of a hat Rolling Eyes Guess I'd better look up the email address for Castrol. Confused
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SBD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just talked to Castrol. Their recommendation for their oil in a sealed container that's not exposed to extreme temperatures (I'm not clear on how extreme that really is but I told the woman that the oil was in the trunk of a vehicle that was stored inside a building), or exposed to a lot of light (she might have said direct sunlight but I don't recall exactly), is 5 years. After 5 years they can't guarantee the "Integrity" of the product.

I tried to use their oil selector on their website to find an oil that was recommended for an air cooled VW. It only went back to 1975 and only listed water cooled models. I asked the woman on the phone about oil for my car and she said the only product they had with the recommended amount of Zinc was (IIRC) their Full Synthetic EDGE oil but in a 10W-50. From what I understand of how the oiling system of an ACVW works this weight oil would probably tend to bypass the cooler and cause the oil to run hot. I asked about using additives in other oils to meet the zinc requirements and was told that they don't recommend using ANY additives in their oils. She said I should look for an oil that met the engine's requirements as part of its' standard chemistry package (even if it meant using a different brand of oil) and try to avoid additives.

EDIT: Looks like I was mistaken, 5W-50


Last edited by SBD on Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SBD wrote:
I asked the woman on the phone about oil for my car and she said the only product they had with the recommended amount of Zinc was (IIRC) their Full Synthetic EDGE oil but in a 10W-50. From what I understand of how the oiling system of an ACVW works this weight.


Put an oil temperature gauge on your rig and run the 10w50 and let us know if your oil gets all that hot.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's actually 5W-50.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I just put some in my Baja the other day... I was away from home and needed to change the oil and - just said screw it I'll try it. It's synthetic so it's not like, thick oil to start with. I do run an oil temperature gauge and it did run hotter on my return trip, but that's not a valid test as the outside temperatures were much warmer and strong side/head winds.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
It's synthetic so it's not like, thick oil to start with.



The 50 in that 5W-50 label begs to differ. Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SBD wrote:
I just talked to Castrol. T........... I asked the woman on the phone about oil for my car and she said the only product they had with the recommended amount of Zinc was (IIRC) their Full Synthetic EDGE oil but in a 10W-50.


5-50? yeesh, what IS that for?
And why are so many guys still using castrol?? Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 50 in 5W-50 refers to it's viscosity at 100C, a 5W will run like water at room temperature.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 2:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
5-50? yeesh, what IS that for?



Engines with too much bearing clearance that live in arctic conditions. Laughing
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SBD
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
SBD wrote:
I just talked to Castrol. T........... I asked the woman on the phone about oil for my car and she said the only product they had with the recommended amount of Zinc was (IIRC) their Full Synthetic EDGE oil but in a 10W-50.


5-50? yeesh, what IS that for?
And why are so many guys still using castrol?? Rolling Eyes
The reason I asked about the Castrol is like I said above. I found some sealed bottles in the trunk of a car that had been parked (in 1998). I thought it might be better for a flat tappet engine (pre-zinc phase-out?) and somebody mentioned reading that oil had a shelf life. I called Castrol to find out about the shelf life. I just figured I'd see what they might recommend for flat tappet engines while I had them on the phone. I haven't actually used Castrol since I parked that car in 1998. I just got back in to ACVW's a little less than 2 years ago when I bought my Kelmark. Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah yes. Use it up, waste is a sin!
I finally got to the bottom of an old 5 gallon bucket of 90wt, took five years mixing in a little here and a little there. Much dark stuff at the bottom Shocked

I was more amazed that the customer service said what they did.
It may be true, may not, but I would have never expected that answer, the irony is epic. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
ah yes. Use it up, waste is a sin!
I finally got to the bottom of an old 5 gallon bucket of 90wt, took five years mixing in a little here and a little there. Much dark stuff at the bottom Shocked

I was more amazed that the customer service said what they did.
It may be true, may not, but I would have never expected that answer, the irony is epic. Laughing
Seems that I always find a bit of "dark stuff" at the bottom of my oil bottles. Think Doesn't seem to matter what brand I use. I always try to shake it up a bit to mix the stuff in before I pour. I always figured it was a bit of the additives settling out or something like that (MAYBE IT'S THE ZINC! Shocked ). Who knows? Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never found dark stuff at the bottom of my bottles, but occasionally would find oil that smelled rancid on the farm. I think the main issue with old oil these days is the use of plastic containers, which are not completely airtight (ask any homebrewer,) allowing the additives or oil to break down. Otherwise there should be no reason for any quality oil to go off - I've also seen oil in old tins many decades old where the the oil appeared quite usable.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The anti-oxidants probably do react eventually due to exposure to oxygen.

it would take a REALLY long time at room temp.............but that bucket of 90wt WAS probably 20 years old.

At the shop we have 10 cans, yes cans of snowmobile oil. WTF should we do with it??? Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a metal can of Mobil 1 that I picked up at a yard sale, probably 20+ years ago. I just looked at it and the masking tape with the price is still there. I paid 50 cents for it. It's 10W-30 and says it can be run for 25,000 miles. Does their oil still make that claim? I think it said service rating is SF-CE-CC Hey, it's a collectors item! Very Happy I also found a couple of cardboard cans of Pennzoil GT/Performance 20W-50. Rated SF-CC-CD. From these ratings can anybody tell how old these are? Shocked

Last edited by SBD on Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
SBD wrote:
I just talked to Castrol. T........... I asked the woman on the phone about oil for my car and she said the only product they had with the recommended amount of Zinc was (IIRC) their Full Synthetic EDGE oil but in a 10W-50.


5-50? yeesh, what IS that for?
And why are so many guys still using castrol?? Rolling Eyes


So suddenly an oil that has a cold cranking temperature of -25*F and a cold pumping temperature of -35*F is a problem? What about the claims of all the people here that you needed watery oil to get decent lubrication when you start your engine with an oil temperature of 100*F. Sorry I am confused, is a 5W-50 oil too thin or too thick in comparison to 5W-20 or a 0W-20 at the temperatures most of us start our engines?

As for the hot viscosity a lot of people here add coolers and fans to get their watery oils to stay thick enough to lubricate by cooling them to 180*F or even cooler, which will make them, oh my god, possibly thicker than a 5W-50 at 212*F. The last time I checked, having a high viscosity index was a good thing.

It seems that for a lot of people here, their only input is to lambast any oil mentioned that they are not running in their own crankcase.
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