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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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 Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the answers!
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If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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I can't seem to find any oils with 1000ppm ZDDP or sulfer or phosphate. Any suggestions?
For an example?
Royal Purple HMX
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If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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dma1260
Samba Member
Joined: May 29, 2007
Posts: 253
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| Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 5:54 pm Post subject: Redline - ZDDP additive - Thanks ! |
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Thanks guys for all the info and insight on these additives. Since I just did an oil change over the weekend I will add an Oz. or 2 of the Redline stuff.
Next time I will go with the Valvoline racing oil or one of the other higher grade suggestions. Thanks again !
Tony |
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RHough
Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2013
Posts: 299
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Juanito84 wrote: |
I can't seem to find any oils with 1000ppm ZDDP or sulfer or phosphate. Any suggestions?
For an example?
Royal Purple HMX |
Every reference I can can find says Shell Rotella T is 1200ppm. Did you want less?
R |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:44 am Post subject: |
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Or if your FLAPS stocks it, there are quite a few from an Aussie company here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/Product_listing.php
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross. |
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Thanks! 
I'm just looking around, preferably for a group 4 or 5 synthetic that doesn't have more ZDDP than I need. It seems most Amsoil, Redline and such products all have nearly 1,500ppm phosphorous or more. 1,000 or 1,100 should be plenty for my stock motor/putt putt driving style. I don't want to run borderline 800ppm nor 1,500ppm racing oil. Prefferably 0W-30 or 5W-30 for the cold. I think I'm going to get an oil heater since -40º F (-40º C) is a bit harsh on the engine come midwinter.
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:08 am Post subject: |
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| Juanito84 wrote: |
| Prefferably 0W-30 or 5W-30 for the cold. |
For a 0w30 or 5w30, look for a "high mileage" SL rated oil. They supposedly have a bit higher level of ZDDP than a SM/SN oil, do your research though. You would probably be just as well off to go to a 0w40 or 5w40 oil as they are not required to have lower ZDDP and will cold crank just as easily as the xxw30 oils. For mountain and other very cold climate use, improving the crankcase ventilation system is a plus in my book. I have a simple system on my 1800 Type 4 that forces a small amount of clean air into the crankcase to lower the humidity and thus cut down on condensation, it has worked well for 25 years at this point. Synthetic oils also seem to do better with not being as apt to fill your crankcase with snot during cold weather than dino oils do.
Short trips during cold weather are particularly bad on an engine. I knew people in Fairbanks back in the day who changed their oil every couple of weeks during the winter months to rid their oil of water and other contaminants. Hard to crank an engine at even 0*F with a half frozen watery slurry in the crankcase. |
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Wildthings!
The Royal Purple HMX oil I mentioned above is supposedly a "high mileage" SL rated oil. Once I have the engine together I'll determine if xW-30 or -40 grade oil will be best depending on my oil pressure and temps. I do do a lot of short trips, hence the idea about the oil heater. And yes, I'm going to improve the crank case ventilation system. I got it machined for a sand seal and am going to inlet filtered air into the heads. I want to use a small 12V metal blower to suck the fumes out of the crank case via the oil filler. I was thinking of using heated air from the air cleaner for the inlets, about 100º F (38º C) except under full thottle, which would induce ambient temperature air.
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Dan Ruddock
Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2012
Posts: 3594
Location: Sarasota, in my adopted state of Florida
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:55 am Post subject: |
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| Juanito84 wrote: |
Thanks Wildthings!
The Royal Purple HMX oil I mentioned above is supposedly a "high mileage" SL rated oil. Once I have the engine together I'll determine if xW-30 or -40 grade oil will be best depending on my oil pressure and temps. I do do a lot of short trips, hence the idea about the oil heater. And yes, I'm going to improve the crank case ventilation system. I got it machined for a sand seal and am going to inlet filtered air into the heads. I want to use a small 12V metal blower to suck the fumes out of the crank case via the oil filler. I was thinking of using heated air from the air cleaner for the inlets, about 100º F (38º C) except under full thottle, which would induce ambient temperature air. |
For your app I would run 0w-30 German castrol. Can be had from auto zone on sale for about $32 for 5 qts and a filter. Dan |
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:08 am Post subject: |
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| Dan Ruddock wrote: |
| For your app I would run 0w-30 German castrol. Can be had from auto zone on sale for about $32 for 5 qts and a filter. Dan |
Thanks! I do prefer a 0W for obviuos reasons. I'm trying to do some research on it. Looks like GC is a true synthetic. Good. I cannot seem to find how much ZDDP it has though. 
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Oh wait, I just read where GC has SL levels of ZDDP! One guy said that after 6,000mi he tested it and still had 990ppm of ZDDP. Sounds good to me !
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dirtkeeper
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Joined: February 19, 2008
Posts: 3200
Location: Left of everywhere
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Can't tell f it's been discussed or this the right place to ask.
What happens when you mix oils?
Let's say I have synthetic oil and I top it off with regular oil?
Using brad pen green oil and top it off with regular other brand oil?
Or throw some 30 weight in an engine that has 10-40 in it?
Sure this should be avoided but probably happens often. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50337
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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| dirtkeeper wrote: |
Can't tell f it's been discussed or this the right place to ask.
What happens when you mix oils?
Let's say I have synthetic oil and I top it off with regular oil?
Using brad pen green oil and top it off with regular other brand oil?
Or throw some 30 weight in an engine that has 10-40 in it?
Sure this should be avoided but probably happens often. |
The engine keeps running with little, if any, noticeable difference. |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, but you can end up with some awful colours.
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Dan Ruddock
Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2012
Posts: 3594
Location: Sarasota, in my adopted state of Florida
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| Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 9:01 am Post subject: |
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| Juanito84 wrote: |
| Oh wait, I just read where GC has SL levels of ZDDP! One guy said that after 6,000mi he tested it and still had 990ppm of ZDDP. Sounds good to me ! |
One thing you should know is GC is it's a thick 30wt and is almost a 40wt but if that is ok with you go for it. Dan |
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Juanito84
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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So it's a 35wt! Awesome!
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: The proper way to prepare the oil filter for installation |
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On Ratwell's site he mentions changing the oil prior to doing a valve adjustment. My only question regards one of his steps that I am confused with.
From "http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html"
| Quote: |
| 2. Change the Oil filter (do not just dump oil inside the filter) |
As I understand it, you fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. Is there some method that does not include just dumping it in there? Is it a slow-pour to avoid air bubbles or something? Also, does it have to be completely and totally full? I did this many moons ago, and I'm fuzzy on proper procedure for the bus. It's a 1978 type 4 engine, hydraulic lifters, if that matters.
thanks!
(I tried a search in this thread but with 152 matches for 'Oil filter', many of them arguing about specs and stuff I thought it'd be better to just ask)
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ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Can't see it in the link, but I suspect he is referring to the oil remaining in the filter when you remove it, but many do fill the filter prior to fitting it.
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vwracerdave
Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15303
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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There are a lot of cheap ass people that dump the old oil out of the filter and reuse the filter again. It boggles my mind how many people only change the filter every 2 oil changes to save $5
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