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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason you shouldn't use diesel oil in a gasoline engine is because it's for diesel engines. Likewise you shouldn't use gasoline oil in a diesel engine because it's for gasoline engines. So if there's a "C" in the API spec then don't use it in a gasoline engine. Also if there's an "S" in the API spec then don't use it in a diesel engine.

Now go down to you local autoparts store and find an oil with an "S" but no "C".
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:
The reason you shouldn't use diesel oil in a gasoline engine is because it's for diesel engines. Likewise you shouldn't use gasoline oil in a diesel engine because it's for gasoline engines. So if there's a "C" in the API spec then don't use it in a gasoline engine. Also if there's an "S" in the API spec then don't use it in a diesel engine.

Now go down to you local autoparts store and find an oil with an "S" but no "C".


Where I live at least one would be hard pressed to find a "C" rated oil that didn't also have an "S" rating. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel, Delo 400le, and Rotella T-6 5w40 Diesel engine oils all carry an SN rating. Even many of the Diesel oils that don't have an S rating on the bottle will be found to have an S rating if you search long enough for it. I can get this Cenex oil at my local farm supply, it doesn't say anything about being "S" rated on the bottle or even on the first webpage you come to:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1_ESP_5W-40.aspx

But a look at the Product Data Sheet shows that it is SN rated.

http://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/lubricant...75-11.ashx

The majority of Diesel oils out there are just fine for use in a gasoline engine, even the ones approved for 2007 and later Diesel engines.

Quote:
Now go down to you local autoparts store and find an oil with an "S" but no "C".


By this skewed logic, you might as well be saying that most of the Diesel engine oil out there shouldn't be used in a Diesel engine because they also carry an "S" rating. Pretty idiotic chain of thought if you ask me.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that was a fully-tongue-in-cheek comment.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
I think that was a fully-tongue-in-cheek comment.


I don't know what that means but yes, I was being sarcastic. Here all the gasoline oils are rated for diesel use. So then what?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:
glutamodo wrote:
I think that was a fully-tongue-in-cheek comment.


I don't know what that means but yes, I was being sarcastic. Here all the gasoline oils are rated for diesel use. So then what?


Oils that have only an SM/SN rating are actually pretty easy to find on the shelf of a FLAPS or Walmart, while it is hard to find an oil that only has a C rating without having to special order it. Not that they can't be had, but I think that much of the reason Diesel oils like the one I posted the link to above don't put an S rating on the bottle is for macho reasons and nothing more.

I moved a maintenance operation I ran 30 years ago over for running special oils for all different kinds of rigs to running a single all fleet oil. Heard predictions of doom from all levels in the company for the first month or two after the change and then never heard another word during the remained of the time I worked there.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just spent the last couple of days reading through this and similar oil threads on other forums. Learned more than I wanted to Confused. I now realize that there are likely several good choices for my situation and have narrowed them down to 4 (based on what I have read and what is available locally). Please help me choose the best option.

My situation:
- 1978 bus with a freshly rebuilt Headflowmasters 2.0 engine (solid lifters, webcam 142)
- driven only from spring til fall in temps ranging from 0-40 degrees C (32-104 F), but mostly in the 10-32 C range (50-90 F)

My choices (all synthetic):
- Castrol Edge 5W-50 ("... especially suited for older vehicles with flat tappet engines")
- Castrol Edge 5W-40 ("... specially formulated to meet the needs of BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Volkswagen")
- Mobil 1 15W-50
- Royal Purple 15W-40

I just want to do right by my new engine. Given my situation, which oil would YOU choose?
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

5W40.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiwaycallin wrote:

My choices (all synthetic):
- Castrol Edge 5W-50 ("... especially suited for older vehicles with flat tappet engines")
- Castrol Edge 5W-40 ("... specially formulated to meet the needs of BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Volkswagen")
- Mobil 1 15W-50
- Royal Purple 15W-40

New engines don't need a 40 or 50 wt oil.

5W-30
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. If you have low oil pressure with xxW-30 then either you need more cooling or your bearings are worn. Not that 50 weight won't work, but how many new engines come with a 50 weight recomendation? None that I know of.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:
I agree. If you have low oil pressure with xxW-30 then either you need more cooling or your bearings are worn. Not that 50 weight won't work, but how many new engines come with a 50 weight recomendation? None that I know of.


Pretty much whenever VW recommended multigrades they recommended xxW-50 weight oils.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I see no reason to believe a 5w40 or even a 5w50 oil will give any kind of problem, including excessively high oil temps included, in a tight engine in normal use. If you are worried about oil temps run a synthetic oil and then don't worry any more. Wink

.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck trying to start your car at -10ºC with 20W-50.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback!

Wildthings wrote:
Juanito84 wrote:
I agree. If you have low oil pressure with xxW-30 then either you need more cooling or your bearings are worn. Not that 50 weight won't work, but how many new engines come with a 50 weight recomendation? None that I know of.

Pretty much whenever VW recommended multigrades they recommended xxW-50 weight oils.

...

Yes, this was my first consideration as well as the fact that most bus owners who post about oil in the Bay Window forum use 20w50. I'm just concerned that the "20" might not be optimal in spring and fall where I live.

The other reason is that (as I have learned from some of your other posts WT) oils where the last # is 40 or higher are not limited as to zinc content. I was able to verify (through posts on various forums) that at least 3 of the 4 oils I listed contain what is considered to be the correct zinc content for flat tappet engines (~1200-1300 ppm).

Wildthings wrote:
I see no reason to believe a 5w40 or even a 5w50 oil will give any kind of problem, including excessively high oil temps included, in a tight engine in normal use. If you are worried about oil temps run a synthetic oil and then don't worry any more. Wink

I was not able to verify the zinc content of Castrol Edge 5w40 but it made my short list specifically because I WAS concerned that a 50 weight oil may be a bit too thick for a tight engine. If not, maybe I'll just go with the Castrol 5w50. Below is something I found interesting from another forum ... apparently a response from Castrol regarding a 2011 inquiry. Basically says that the current 5w50 is similar to the former 20w50 except better in the cold. Sounds like it might be my best option.

Quote:
"Castrol SYNTEC 20W-50 classic car formulation is being replaced by Castrol Edge with SYNTEC Power Technology in the 5W-50 viscosity grade. The 5W-50 grade will also be specially formulated for classic car use and will adopt the 20W-50 claims – designed for use in classic cars. The 5W-50 formulation will contain more zinc additives than the 20W-50 and will also enhance start up ability in cold temperatures as well as enable better fuel economy* *Compared to SAE 20W-50."
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They might have made it a strange weight so it can be sold in stores, and nobody will accidentally put it in their honda.

If it says on the label that it is for classic engines, then it's the right one.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiwaycallin wrote:
Thanks for the feedback!

Wildthings wrote:
Juanito84 wrote:
I agree. If you have low oil pressure with xxW-30 then either you need more cooling or your bearings are worn. Not that 50 weight won't work, but how many new engines come with a 50 weight recomendation? None that I know of.

Pretty much whenever VW recommended multigrades they recommended xxW-50 weight oils.

...

Yes, this was my first consideration as well as the fact that most bus owners who post about oil in the Bay Window forum use 20w50. I'm just concerned that the "20" might not be optimal in spring and fall where I live.

The other reason is that (as I have learned from some of your other posts WT) oils where the last # is 40 or higher are not limited as to zinc content. I was able to verify (through posts on various forums) that at least 3 of the 4 oils I listed contain what is considered to be the correct zinc content for flat tappet engines (~1200-1300 ppm).

Wildthings wrote:
I see no reason to believe a 5w40 or even a 5w50 oil will give any kind of problem, including excessively high oil temps included, in a tight engine in normal use. If you are worried about oil temps run a synthetic oil and then don't worry any more. Wink

I was not able to verify the zinc content of Castrol Edge 5w40 but it made my short list specifically because I WAS concerned that a 50 weight oil may be a bit too thick for a tight engine. If not, maybe I'll just go with the Castrol 5w50. Below is something I found interesting from another forum ... apparently a response from Castrol regarding a 2011 inquiry. Basically says that the current 5w50 is similar to the former 20w50 except better in the cold. Sounds like it might be my best option.

Quote:
"Castrol SYNTEC 20W-50 classic car formulation is being replaced by Castrol Edge with SYNTEC Power Technology in the 5W-50 viscosity grade. The 5W-50 grade will also be specially formulated for classic car use and will adopt the 20W-50 claims – designed for use in classic cars. The 5W-50 formulation will contain more zinc additives than the 20W-50 and will also enhance start up ability in cold temperatures as well as enable better fuel economy* *Compared to SAE 20W-50."


I have 24 quarts of the syntec 5w-50 you are talking about. Would you like to buy at a discount?
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh you are in BC might be to costly to ship.

Dan
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I see no reason to believe a 5w40 or even a 5w50 oil will give any kind of problem, including excessively high oil temps included, in a tight engine in normal use. If you are worried about oil temps run a synthetic oil and then don't worry any more. Wink

.


And I'm not saying 40 or 50 weight doesn't work. There are lot's of guys who won't put anything else in there other than 20W-50. But then there's those who won't use anything other than straight 30 or 10W-30 or even one guy who only uses 0W-20 in his Bug. I haven't heard anything bad from any of them

I guess it's just my personal preference to chose in the middle or a bit to the thin side. For one, VW recommended a multi-grade 50 as the thickest oil possible when a multigrade 40 or straight 30 would work the same. Technically a multigrade 30 should be the same viscosity at running temps as straight 30. Of course then there's that 10W-30 or thinner SN oil to watch out for. One thing I found interesting is that my 2001 Chevy astro has a 0W/5W/10W-30 recomendation in the owner's manual. But when you look at recomended oils outside the USA it recommends anything from 0W-20 to 25W-50 depending on the ambient temps! But after 165,000 miles I don't see where the 5W-30 it's used all it's life did any damage to it. My 1985 Golf has a list that's nearly identical to the old AC VW lists too. All this has lead me to my own conclusions based on my pure guess.

But still, if you get good oil pressure with whatever-30, then why use 40 or 50? I guess in my mind it's kind of like weather that's warm enough to turn over fine with 10W-xx doesn't need 0W oil. Not that 0W or xx-50 is the end of the road, but why go right to the limit instead of somewhere in the middle unless your circumstances truely merit the limit, like artic temps or worn bearings.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you would mention the 85 Golf though, as that owner's manual has a note in it. Regarding the GTI models with the multi-function-interface display on the dashboard, which could display a digital reading of the oil temperature:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I've mentioned this before, not sure if it was in this thread or not. But really, 320°F is supposed to be the "redline"?

I kind of wish my 85 Golf was a GTI, so I could eyeball that one myself.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My old '87 16V GTI hit 250F according to the onboard computer a few times in the AZ summer when I was on the freeway.
Nothing blew up, although I did concern me until I saw that too since I knew the air-cooled engine max is 250F.
I remember using Castrol 20W/50 in it but I could be wrong on that.

The guy that bought the car later told me the timing chain was off by one notch so that may have been a factor.
Apparently I bought the car that way.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
I see no reason to believe a 5w40 or even a 5w50 oil will give any kind of problem, including excessively high oil temps included, in a tight engine in normal use. If you are worried about oil temps run a synthetic oil and then don't worry any more. Wink

.


And I'm not saying 40 or 50 weight doesn't work. There are lot's of guys who won't put anything else in there other than 20W-50. But then there's those who won't use anything other than straight 30 or 10W-30 or even one guy who only uses 0W-20 in his Bug. I haven't heard anything bad from any of them

I guess it's just my personal preference to chose in the middle or a bit to the thin side. For one, VW recommended a multi-grade 50 as the thickest oil possible when a multigrade 40 or straight 30 would work the same. Technically a multigrade 30 should be the same viscosity at running temps as straight 30. Of course then there's that 10W-30 or thinner SN oil to watch out for. One thing I found interesting is that my 2001 Chevy astro has a 0W/5W/10W-30 recomendation in the owner's manual. But when you look at recomended oils outside the USA it recommends anything from 0W-20 to 25W-50 depending on the ambient temps! But after 165,000 miles I don't see where the 5W-30 it's used all it's life did any damage to it. My 1985 Golf has a list that's nearly identical to the old AC VW lists too. All this has lead me to my own conclusions based on my pure guess.

But still, if you get good oil pressure with whatever-30, then why use 40 or 50? I guess in my mind it's kind of like weather that's warm enough to turn over fine with 10W-xx doesn't need 0W oil. Not that 0W or xx-50 is the end of the road, but why go right to the limit instead of somewhere in the middle unless your circumstances truely merit the limit, like artic temps or worn bearings.


Did you ever try pouring a 5w40 or 5w50 oil out of a bottle, say at 0°F? These are quite obviously thin oils, yet people do backflips worrying about them being too thick. This logic doesn't make a lot of sense to me. One would be just as justified to equate them with a 5wt oil as to equate them with a 40 or 50wt oil, yet many refer to them as if they were straight weight 40 or 50wt oils which they are not.

For myself I consider a 5w40 to be a middle of the road oil and a 5w50 to be not be far from it..


Quote:
For one, VW recommended a multi-grade 50 as the thickest oil possible when a multigrade 40 or straight 30 would work the same.


This kind of statement is just what I am talking about. It is quite meaningless and not the tiniest bit more accurate than claiming that "VW recommended a multi-grade 20W as the thickest oil possible when a multigrade 15W or straight 30 would work the same."
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
My old '87 16V GTI hit 250F according to the onboard computer a few times in the AZ summer when I was on the freeway.
Nothing blew up, although I did concern me until I saw that too since I knew the air-cooled engine max is 250F.


250*F is the absolute max oil temp for any car using any brand of oil in any engine, not just aircooled engines.
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