Front Window Frame HELL Restoration

jeremy57ride · Samba Member Joined: May 23, 2005 Posts: 1318

I'm starting to put my westy back together, fresh out of paint and I need the pictures from this old thread!
~This is a sticky with some good information, but I'm sure the pictures spoke volumes! Anyone out there care to update with some install pictures??

Many thanks!
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Scandell · Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:12 am Post subject:

Im looking for them...please hold. They have been added to the samba photo gallery and will be properly fixed shortly.
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begood56vw · Samba Member Joined: June 20, 2006 Posts: 280

Hey Scandell, any idea why I can't open the pictures were you have "one down, one to go"? thanks in advance.

SuperSamba · Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 2:37 pm Post subject:

I updated the photos on page 1 with photos Scandell uploaded into the Samba gallery.

This post:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2503638#2503638

jeremy57ride · Samba Member Joined: May 23, 2005 Posts: 1318

Thanks for the picture update! A couple questions...
1-Do you need to "cut" the rubber to allow the top part of the vent window to stick through (where the rivet is used)?
2-Where did you use (if any) 3M glue in the install?

Anyone?
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"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." -Warren Miller

madcitymcflyer · Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:31 am Post subject:

Had my '66 Westy restored two years ago and the body shop is now out of business. Window frames were restored, including all new rubber, felt channels, etc.
Went to open the driver's door's ventwing and the latch popped out in my
hand! I thought I found all of the parts (latch, spring washer at least), but appears that there's also a small stud that holds the latch against the stud.
What's all missing and where's it available??

tkfar · Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 3:33 pm Post subject: window rubber removal

I just removed the remains of the rubber seal on the outside of the window frame. I found it easiest to use my dremel with a fiber cutoff wheel. I cut a channel right down the middle of the seal and then used the bent end of a paint can opener and flat screwdriver to clean the channel. Un bend the pinched ends of the channel. this method works well and should only take @ 15- 20 minutes per side. I used a pb blaster as a lube for the first side and nothing for the second door and that worked better on my 58 SC with OG rubber. the lube seemed to gum up the works too much. After the seal was out, I used the dremel wire wheel and compressed air to thoroughly clean the channel. THEN I BROKE BOTH POSTS ON MY VENT WINDOWS!!!!!!! Evil or Very Mad

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jeremy57ride · Samba Member Joined: May 23, 2005 Posts: 1318

Thought I'd update here, I got my front windows done and installed. They kicked my but on the first try (vent wing rubber) but after some alone time, a prayer and some finger excercises, the seals went in beautifully.
Quick tip for you westy owners...if you restored your jalousies and bought the correct tool for the "crush" rivets, it works perfectly for the rivet on the vent wing. I flipped the asy and placed the head of the rivet on the anvil and carefully smacked the tool...watch the glass!!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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EverettB · Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:50 pm Post subject:

Can you post a photo of the tool please.
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jeremy57ride · Samba Member Joined: May 23, 2005 Posts: 1318

2true · Samba Member Joined: December 13, 2004 Posts: 1218

My .02 cents:

Wolfsburg West Vent Wing Glass to Frame seal is too thick. It will not fit right. They need to make the seal thinner. I used both 20 year old NOS West Coast Metric seal and WW seal and the thickness was identical. I did get the seal in and it stretched my vent wing frame. I took it out and ended up going the Rubber Electrical tape route and it worked great!

This process made me want to quit VWs. Seriously. Brick wall

Bulli Klinik · Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:37 am Post subject:

Spiderwebb · Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:37 pm Post subject:

just did my 1st vent window rebuild and all was easy
used electrical tape two layers

waiting 24 hrs until I remove it from the jig to make sure the glass stays put...

had to use some hair spray to get the glass to stay put after removing from the jig

tinted glass, powdercoated parts and WW repop latch

jig

electrical tape trick

pressing it all together slowly with soapy water

'64 SC

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:46 pm Post subject:

Any tips on getting the vent window glass OUT of the frame? Need to remove mine to replace the fastener.
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EverettB · Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:20 pm Post subject:

Are you trying to re-use the seal?

Yes?
If you have Sekurit, I have done this a bunch of times:

I would not try this with Sigla glass - there is a good chance you will crack it.
With Sigla I have put a towel around the glass, put a vice grip on there and slowly pulled it out. You need to pull straight or risk cracking the glass.

If you are replacing the seal, stick a razor blade in there and slice the seal all around to relieve the pressure on the glass and it may just pull out.

I haven't disassembled that many so techniques may vary.
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"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
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CaLiBus · Samba Member Joined: May 27, 2011 Posts: 1097

I spraid lubricant PB blaster all along the seal and let it soak in. Pushed up with some light force on the frame and wiggled the glass out. Worked everytime.

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:20 am Post subject:

They're both Sekurit. I removed the left one as per Everett's method, the right one wouldn't come out as easily so its soaking in PB Blaster. Both seals are going to be replaced anyway...too crusty not to. Guess I'll use the rubber electrical tape method from what I've read here, and build me a jig to press them in.
_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

turkis-deluxe · Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:10 am Post subject:

Why not just take it to a glass shop and have them do it. Most shops have the correct thickness material and pressing tools. They can do it with less frustration and it's done correctly for a minimal cost.

I just got my convertible roll up windows and vent windows done for $125.00.

Just another option if someone didn't want to deal with the frustrations of building a jig, or using electrical tape, or not doing it correctly.

My $.02 for the morning Smile

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:15 am Post subject:

For me...nothing like the satisfaction of doing anything I can.
_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

turkis-deluxe · Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:37 am Post subject:


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