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papawhisky Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007 Posts: 186
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 9:54 am Post subject: Smoothing out the shifting |
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My 88 Westy takes a bit of muscle and maneuver to shift so I am cleaning up the linkage this weekend. Starting up front, I pulled the gearshift lever and shift-mechanism housing (box) and inspected, cleaned and re-greased. That all looks good. When I got to the transmission end of the business, I found the rubber boot between the shift lever and the shift rod completely shredded. The shift lever and the plastic ball lever are in good shape and will clean up nicely. My problem is knowing what to order for the boot. When I pulled it apart I assume it was a single boot. When I look on van-cafe, it looks like there are 2 boots
http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagon_parts.jsp?ct=19958...=928777817
The boot identified as:
251.711.167E
Shift Lever to Rod Boot
looks too short.
Do I also add:
020.301.261A
Transmission to Shift Lever Boot
??
The IPB in the Bentley (p. 34.7a) is vague enough for me see one or two boots, depending on how I tilt my head
As always--Thanks!
PW |
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Dogpilot Samba Member

Joined: October 03, 2005 Posts: 4205 Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 10:34 am Post subject: |
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The short boot is indeed the correct one to go over the ball to socket part, 167E. You actually need two of the 167F boots, one on each side of the ball on the bracket.
Look inside the metal socket when you clean it up. Much to my suprise I found the metal had worn considerably and not the plastic! _________________ Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G |
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Christopher Schimke  Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 3317 Location: PNW
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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 10:37 am Post subject: |
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Bentley page 34.9 shows a decent picture of those two boots.
020.301.261A is the one closest to the gearbox, 251.711.167E is the one that slips over the ball and then onto the cup portion of the shift rod.
If you look at page 34.7, you will see boot 251.711.167E in the assembly simply called "Boot" right in between "Lever" and "Shift lever". _________________ Christopher
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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papawhisky Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2007 Posts: 186
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 6:35 am Post subject: |
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You are right Chris--thanks. Got both on order now. Should be smooth shifting soon!
PW |
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fixedgear Samba Member

Joined: November 09, 2006 Posts: 227 Location: Clear Lake, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 7:50 am Post subject: |
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| papawhisky wrote: | You are right Chris--thanks. Got both on order now. Should be smooth shifting soon!
PW |
Have you attempted to remove the pin from the bottom of the lever yet? Just wondering if you vice gripped it out or hammered it into the lever. I as well was not aware that you needed the second boot-and two of them yet, for the transmission to lever connection area. I purchased the lever and ball assembly parts (the pin from Bus Depot was not included with the lever itself by the way.) Thanks for the heads up-will have to order the two accordian boots before I pull everything apart, mine are completely missing. Barnaby |
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Christopher Schimke  Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 3317 Location: PNW
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Posted: Sat May 26, 2007 8:30 am Post subject: |
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| fixedgear wrote: |
Have you attempted to remove the pin from the bottom of the lever yet? Just wondering if you vice gripped it out or hammered it into the lever. |
The best plan is to remove the shift rod from the van to remove and replace the tension pin. If you do the work with the rod still in the van, make sure that you support the rod with a block of wood (or the like) before doing any pounding. The shift rod tubing is fairly thin and easy to bend. Don't ask me how I know!!! _________________ Christopher
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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jdbs3 Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2004 Posts: 72
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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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1990 Vanagon Manual Transmission
Just found this old thread. I'm having my mechanic replace all 4 boots (all but 1 bushing boot are torn).
Transmission to Shift Lever Boot 020.301.261A
Shift Lever to Rod Boot 251.711.167E
Shift Rod Bushing Boot (2 required) 251.711.167F
That looks to be all that needs to be done. BUT, are there any other parts that should be replaced along with these boots as preventative maintenance?
And any critical points to make my mechanic aware of when replacing these boots?
I'm ordering the parts tomorrow.
thanks |
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chimivee Samba Member

Joined: September 23, 2009 Posts: 558 Location: Orange, CA
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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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| jdbs3 wrote: | | BUT, are there any other parts that should be replaced along with these boots as preventative maintenance? |
If your boots are all buggered, then chances are the bits that they're intended to protect are worn: the shift rod bushings and shift lever ball. These are easy to replace while they're in there.
And if you want to be thorough (and haven't already done so), consider replacing the shifter base bushings and the shift rod fork guides to tighten up the shifting even further. _________________ -James
86 Syncro Westy, etc |
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jdbs3 Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2004 Posts: 72
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:03 am Post subject: |
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| chimivee wrote: | | the shift rod bushings and shift lever ball. These are easy to replace while they're in there. |
Shift rod bushing is 251.711.207E. Yes, I'll replace this.
Which is the shifter lever ball? The Plastic Ball For Shift Lever
251.711.131C or Ball Socket for Shifter 823.711.643A? van-cafe is out of one of them.
| chimivee wrote: | | consider replacing the shifter base bushings and the shift rod fork guides to tighten up the shifting even further. |
I looked in van-cafe, but I did not see these parts. See
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van_1340047228361/smartlist_784/shift_components.html?stpl=view_all
What are the part numbers for these?
thanks |
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SL1 Samba Member

Joined: December 17, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:48 am Post subject: |
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get your fork guide kit from Christopher, http://t3technique.com/
 _________________ Steve
1985 GL Westy - 'Bullwinkle' |
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chimivee Samba Member

Joined: September 23, 2009 Posts: 558 Location: Orange, CA
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:35 am Post subject: |
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| jdbs3 wrote: |
Which is the shifter lever ball? The Plastic Ball For Shift Lever
251.711.131C or Ball Socket for Shifter 823.711.643A? |
The one I was referring to is the first one, 251.711.131C. It can also be purchased with the lever 251.711.221F.
It might be more helpful to give you a full breakdown of what I did on my van (in rough order from rear to front of van):
1. "Transmission to Shift Lever Boot" 020.301.261A.
2. "Shift Lever "(with ball) 251.711.221F or just the "ball" 251.711.131C
3. Optionally you can replace "Shift Lever Selector" 251.711.973, which is the socket piece that the ball (item 2) sits in. You would also need the "Roll Pin for Shift Selector Lever" N.023.331.1 that secures the lever to the shift rod.
4. "Shift Lever to Rod Boot" 251.711.167E
Alternatively, VC has a kit that includes items 2, 3, and 4: VC.SHIFTKITREAR.
5. "Rear Shift Rod Bushing" (and boots). Parts changed around 88 or so and I'm not entirely sure which bushing you'd use. I think it's 251.711.207E plus two boots 251.711.167F.
6. Front Shift Rod Bushing. Again, not entirely sure, but I think the front bushing you'd use is 251.711.207D (no boots)
7. "Universal Joint" 251.711.551. I don't know if this is a high wear item, but I replaced mine because it's cheap. Be sure the mechanic re-uses or replaces the little rubber o-ring bushings that are inserted at each opening of the joint (4 of them total). The new u-joint does not include these.
8. Shift Rod Fork Guides: Available from T3 Technique and at least one other Samba Classifieds vendor.
9. Shifter lever to shift rod linkage/bushings, which VC calls "Shift Lever Bushing Repair Kit" VC.SHIFTLEVRPRKIT
10. The "shifter base bushings" I referred to is really the plastic bits at the base of the shifter. Van-Cafe calls it "Shifter Base Repair Kit" VC.Shiftbasekit
Alternatively, items 8 and 9 can be had as a kit which also includes some additional replacement parts for the shift lever base assembly. GoWesty has it: 251-798-116A
I think that's just about all the parts to R&R the shifter.
Notes:
Mark the position of the shifter base plate before removal. Mark the position of the coupling of the front and rear shift rods before disconnecting. Be sure the rear rod bushing bracket is remounted on the correct side of the mounting "ear" on the transmission. Some adjustment may be necessary once it's all back together for proper shifting. _________________ -James
86 Syncro Westy, etc |
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Landsailer Samba Member

Joined: May 02, 2011 Posts: 174 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 9:40 am Post subject: |
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| Just adding to the ocean of knowledge here on The Samba. I did some smoothing out this weekend. I had issue with keeping 1st accessible without pushing down. Second was a little clunky at times. So I walked the entire linkage looking for slop. 88 Syncro by the way. Everything looked great until I got back to the trans area. I replaced the bushing back there. There was a ton of slop, the grooves on the inside of the bushing were almost gone. Then I looked at the cup. Not only was the inside of the cup completely worn down (like paper thin walls worn), but the cup to shift rod joint was wobbly in a bad way. I had the rear shift rod out, so I banged out the roll pin and looked at the rod. The top of the two holes in the rod was wallowed out substantially, so I figured I was screwed. Instead, I found a fix. I pulled a much fresher cup off a 2wd shift rod that I had lying around and then I drilled the cup and the rod to fit a 3/8" roll pin instead of the approx. 1/4". I banged the new roll pin in and holy crap was that joint solid. After the bushing, the new cup, and a solid cup/shaft joint, all gears are where they should be every time now. It's fixes like this that make my day better. |
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