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Line-X interior
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Line-X
Yes
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 35%  [ 7 ]
No
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 65%  [ 13 ]
Total Votes : 20

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Strowbridge
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 7:23 pm    Post subject: Line-X interior Reply with quote

I just got my thing a month and a half ago. It's all original with 62000 miles on it. I want to keep it as original as possible.
I was thinking of Line-Xing the inside pans from front to rear and aslo the backs of the back seats and all the way back. What do you think of that?

-Thanks
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uberautowerks
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Line X is too hard to remove and really doesn't quiet thing down. Also, on the backs of the seats it tends to interfere with the latches.
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Captain Spalding
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 8:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Line-X interior Reply with quote

Strowbridge wrote:
. . .I want to keep it as original as possible.

IIRC, it didn't come from the factory with LineX. Twisted Evil

Seriously, though, a big +1 on the comment by uberautowerks. Spray-in bedliners are popular with many of the Land Rover off road crowd. It can be problematic when metalwork is required.

Congrats on the new Thing and welcome!
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wackert
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah im thinkin bout doin the same thing and its not really to quite things down its more less to clean up te interior and to not have to worry bout paint chippin and what not. id say do what u want its ur car and not take other peoples opinions on it ya know. remeber its ur car not theres.
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had rhino lining and line X done on many vehicles personally and have seen it done on countless vehicles and applications. It can be a very nice addition to your pan depending on your reasons and expectations for applying it . Rhino linings and Line X are brands with different processes for applying with different final outcomes. R.L.is sprayed on cold , is usually a little thicker and has a grippier / lumpier (thats tech talk)softer texture. Thats nice if you don't want things sliding around in the bed of your pick up , I'm not sure it is a benefit in a Thing. Line X is sprayed on hot so it is usually thiner with a more uniform texture though it tends to be a little firmer and not as grippy. LX doesn't seem to fade as fast as RL and in the industrial applications I have seen it used on, Line X seems to hold up better. Now, I use the Names Line X and Rhino Liners loosely since there are many brands that mimic them . Ask how they are applied .A very large variable is the prep work that is done before the liner is sprayed on . In fact the prep work usually is the hardest part of the job . If it is not done right as in all surfaces sanded and the area taped off nice you may get a product that that will peel . If it is done right you will get a product that can last the vehicles lifetime.
I had it done in a Jeep Scrambler and when it got muddy I could just hose it down.
The only problem was that the water had nowhere to go and pooled up so I had too use a wet and dry vac to suck it out. which brings me to my idea of drilling a couple of holes in the floor under the rear seat and plugging them with drains that I find in the trunks of Mercedes sedans , that way the water can get out and not in .
As far as the point of not wanting to cover up the metal in case you need to get to it later , will if you have the capability or means to repair the damaged metal I don't see how the liner would be a problem. In fact they can spray over it again. If you let your person know in advance about seat latch issues they can tape it off or spray it thin in that area
The only reason I haven't done mine is I shipped it to the islands before my guy could get to it and I don't know anyone good over here yet .
If your in Orange County CA Bob at Tough Skin is excellent and fair !
BTW congrats on your new Thing
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Ian Epperson
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 12:32 am    Post subject: Re: Line-X interior Reply with quote

Strowbridge wrote:
I was thinking of Line-Xing the inside pans from front to rear and aslo the backs of the back seats and all the way back. What do you think of that?


When I had a bunch of body work done, I also had them spray the underbody and under the fenders with a nice thick coat with the same thought - quiet it down and stop chips. Here I am 3 years later cursing the stuff. Soaking suspension parts in gasoline to get that crud off, chipping it away to kill rust spots, and watching it simply peel off other, seemingly sound areas (why doesn't it fall off when rust starts underneath?!? No, that would be too easy! Gotta chip at those bubbles to find the rust! The parts that are peeling show nice, shiny metal underneath!)

Now, maybe I got bum liner or maybe it wasn't prepped well enough or whatever, but I've heard many similar complaints from others. Painted metal is fairly easy to repair, add a liner and it's tough! If I could go back, either I wouldn't have this stuff put on.
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it has its place, but only on the pans -- not the seat backs or package tray.

Pans, unless they have been carefully installed and protected, are practically a wear and tear item on old V-dubs in general and on our Things in particular.

I would give my pans a C- right now. I could go ahead and replace them, but the rest of the car is at least a B+ in terms of rust (the disparity owing to the PO's use of moisture trapping carpeting on the pans). So my plan is to wire wheel the pans, use POR patch on a couple of small holes and then cover with Rust Bullet. Then I'll add Line-X or RL or whatever I can find over the Rust Bullet. The pedal cluster will be removed and the seat tracks taped up as well as the interior where it meets the pans.

I really can't see how this will cause much of a problem with keeping the car original.

As an aside, I don't like putting anything on the underbody that can't be removed with high pressure soap and water. I'm a bar and chain oil guy with the use of Fluid Flim in the hard to reach or problem areas.
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Captain Spalding
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bciesq wrote:
As an aside, I don't like putting anything on the underbody that can't be removed with high pressure soap and water. I'm a bar and chain oil guy with the use of Fluid Flim in the hard to reach or problem areas.

[hijack]I had never heard of either of those products and had to google them. The bar and chain oil is very similar to WaxOyl, which is basically just what it sounds like. It goes on translucent and you can see problems underneath as they occur, and nip them in the bud.

For undercoating, I favor a WaxOyl style product everywhere but in the wheel wells, where I prefer 3M spray-on undercoat, for rock chip protection.

I consider a spray-on bedliner as analagous to a tattoo for your car - sure, it might be cool at first, but ultimately it will be faded and skanky, and tough to remove. Wink
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Captain Spalding wrote:
bciesq wrote:
As an aside, I don't like putting anything on the underbody that can't be removed with high pressure soap and water. I'm a bar and chain oil guy with the use of Fluid Flim in the hard to reach or problem areas.

[hijack]I had never heard of either of those products and had to google them. The bar and chain oil is very similar to WaxOyl, which is basically just what it sounds like. It goes on translucent and you can see problems underneath as they occur, and nip them in the bud.

For undercoating, I favor a WaxOyl style product everywhere but in the wheel wells, where I prefer 3M spray-on undercoat, for rock chip protection.

I consider a spray-on bedliner as analagous to a tattoo for your car - sure, it might be cool at first, but ultimately it will be faded and skanky, and tough to remove. Wink


Cap-

The only reason I use bar and chain oil is because it is readily available. Where do you get WaxOyl? I've heard good things about it from folks in the UK, but I wasn't aware that it could be obtained here in the states.

A little googleing turned up this:

http://www.minimania.com/web/AddedFrom/Suggest_Cart/Item/WAXOYL/InvDetail.cfm

Are these good prices?

Ben

PS We'll have to agree to disagree on bedliner used on pans. Given the life expectancy of my already compromised pans in damp Florida, I think a more apt analogy would be a henna tattoo: a little skanky, but it will come off on its own eventually anyway.
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chinarider
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW: I had a tough type of paint applied to my pans (pans only) when I had the bodywork done on my Thing. In actuality, I don't know what it was, or even if it was in fact a "liner" type of product. They body shop owner told me that they usually use it in pickup truck beds, and areas in front of rear wheels, where regular paint chipping can be a problem. It just looks and feels like ordinary VW black pan paint to me, and I understand that you can paint over it if yoo want. It just doesn't wear down at all - at least not yet, and it's been a couple of years now. Sorry that I don't know exactly what the stuff is called.

I'm also with the bar and chain oil school of thought. Had mine treated that way regularly when I lived back east, and I'll swear by it.
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Ian Epperson
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Waxoyl stuff looks interesting. I discovered a rust hole in the end of each rocker - I wonder if I could reach in with this and slow down the rust before sealing the holes.
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Strowbridge
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:44 am    Post subject: Line-X Reply with quote

bciesq: Why would you only do the pans and not the rest? Thanks for your help!
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Strowbridge
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:56 am    Post subject: WAXOYL Reply with quote

Here is a website I found for waxoyl. Pretty reasonable prices and you can get an aeorsol can of it to give itt a try.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/searchadv.aspx?SearchTerm=waxoyl&Issubmit=True
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bmwloco
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking POR-15 on the inside. Water? Who cares? Just pull the drain plugs to empty.

Just my $0.02, but take it with a grain of salt. I don't drive my Thing in inclement weather. What with the completely Mickey Mouse windshield wipers, poor ventilation, etc...

Nah. I'll drive my Benz when it rains.
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:24 am    Post subject: Re: Line-X Reply with quote

Strowbridge wrote:
bciesq: Why would you only do the pans and not the rest? Thanks for your help!


Because the pans are a relatively easy and inexpensive part to source (even if it is a PITA to replace them). Almost every other piece of sheet metal on a Thing is going to be too valuable to cover in hard to remove goop.
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian Epperson wrote:
That Waxoyl stuff looks interesting. I discovered a rust hole in the end of each rocker - I wonder if I could reach in with this and slow down the rust before sealing the holes.


I have holes in the rockers from where the jack points were removed. I've been pumping Fluid Film in there periodically and so far so good.
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markie61
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bciesq wrote:
I have holes in the rockers from where the jack points were removed. I've been pumping Fluid Film in there periodically and so far so good.


My Thing's PO did the same thing through the rear rust holes with POR15 using a swab - kind of like a big Q-tip. Judging by the pictures taken when he first listed it about 3 years ago and what I see now, it froze the rust in its place (at least, for now...) Like Loco, I don't drive mine in inclement weather either. It is stored in a dirt-floor non-weathertight pole building. I plan to use bedliner on my pans, but nowhere else.

Mark
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surfarii
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Line-X interior Reply with quote

Ian Epperson wrote:
When I had a bunch of body work done, I also had them spray the underbody and under the fenders with a nice thick coat with the same thought - quiet it down and stop chips.



Here in lies the problem with this product . As Ian pointed out you have to have realistic expectations of the product. If your intent is to take an ugly rusty flakey peeling dented P.O.S.and try to resell it this is your stuff( I have seen many people do it in truck beds) If you want it to be a long lasting fix all cover up don't spend your hard earned money.
Now if like me ,your pan is in excellent condition , you take care of your stuff and you are looking for a little extra protection from weather you can benefit from it
Like Loco I too am a fair weather driver but I was at the beach yesterday and out of no where a Squall came through so off I ran to the car to haul ass home for cover in the garage . It sure would have been easier to dry the floor off if it was lined .
Don't throw the baby out with the bath water .Use the product for what it is intended for
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bmwloco wrote:
I'm thinking POR-15 on the inside. Water? Who cares? Just pull the drain plugs to empty.

Just my $0.02, but take it with a grain of salt. I don't drive my Thing in inclement weather. What with the completely Mickey Mouse windshield wipers, poor ventilation, etc...

Nah. I'll drive my Benz when it rains.


I think you need to consider putting something on top of the POR-15 -- my understanding is that it doesn't hold up well to UV radiation. The tops of the pans aren't in direct sunlight as much as the hood, but they do get sun.
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bciesq
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:48 am    Post subject: Re: Line-X interior Reply with quote

surfarii wrote:
Ian Epperson wrote:
When I had a bunch of body work done, I also had them spray the underbody and under the fenders with a nice thick coat with the same thought - quiet it down and stop chips.



Here in lies the problem with this product . As Ian pointed out you have to have realistic expectations of the product. If your intent is to take an ugly rusty flakey peeling dented P.O.S.and try to resell it this is your stuff( I have seen many people do it in truck beds) If you want it to be a long lasting fix all cover up don't spend your hard earned money.
Now if like me ,your pan is in excellent condition , you take care of your stuff and you are looking for a little extra protection from weather you can benefit from it
Like Loco I too am a fair weather driver but I was at the beach yesterday and out of no where a Squall came through so off I ran to the car to haul ass home for cover in the garage . It sure would have been easier to dry the floor off if it was lined .
Don't throw the baby out with the bath water .Use the product for what it is intended for


surfarii-

Judging from your car, it's clear that your metal working skills/knowledge far exceed mine, so I'll ask you a question: My pans aren't in great shape, but they are not too far gone either; would a wire wheel -> POR-Patch on two small holes -> Rust Bullet -> bed liner sequence be a reasonable plan of action to extend their lives until I'm ready for a full restoration? I'm talking about the pans only.

Keep in mind that my car is a daily driver (parking garage at work, a high quality Thing Shop car cover at home). I try to avoid driving in rain when possible, but on average I get doused pretty good about once a year.

TIA for any insight.

Ben
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