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Hey, I like the wheels of your Type 3!
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DONGKG
The Araneta Boys


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:36 pm    Post subject: Hey, I like the wheels of your Type 3! Reply with quote

When it comes to wheels, every Type 3 enthusiast has his own preference. One may use stock rims for that period appeal and for the preservation of the historical value of his Type 3; on the other hand, one may use aftermarket wheels to give his Type 3 a personalized touches and distinctive look that may create some lasting impressions.

Well, My '66 Type 3 Fasty (Sharky 2) sports an EMPI Sprintstars wheels. What about your type 3? Let us see some pictures please.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stockitty, stock, stock, stock.

Nothing fits and looks like a stock wheel/ trimring/ hubcap.
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vwfye
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stock w/trim rings on the 343
centerlines on the notch speedster
notchback had american racing 'lemans'
8 spokes are on the squareback
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running American Racing Aero wheels on my Sophy. 15x7 fronts and 16x7 rears. Re-drilled the drums and rotors for the 4x100mm pattern and pressed in studs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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67stang302
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Giovanna 17x7" Rims, Can't remember the model name but they discontinued them anyways.
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vdub
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am putting polished 8 spokes on my square.
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fasty69
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

interceptors (kinda like empi 8 spokes, but a bit different, and rare)


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vdub
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fasty69 wrote:
interceptors (kinda like empi 8 spokes, but a bit different, and rare)


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Nice Smile

I want to run 5 spokes but I am not giving up my disk's and 5 lug disks are outrages.

I almost considered adapters but they just don't look safe to me.
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vdub
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nos that I think about it if I went with 5 lug I would have to use BRM's

Flat 4 of course.
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DONGKG
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaransonT3 wrote:
I am running American Racing Aero wheels on my Sophy. 15x7 fronts and 16x7 rears. Re-drilled the drums and rotors for the 4x100mm pattern and pressed in studs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That is a rare wheels on your Sophy. Unique, that is. What car are those wheels equipped for?
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DONGKG wrote:

That is a rare wheels on your Sophy. Unique, that is. What car are those wheels equipped for?


They are an aftermarket wheel for predominantly the front wheel drive vehicles that have fairly large positive offset. The 15x7 are 42mm offset. The 16x7 are 46mm offset, IIRC. Perfect for a Type 3.

I originally wanted to run American Racing Torque Thrust II wheels, but they don't come in an offset that is even close to being right for a Type 3. These wheels have a similar look and a good offset.

Glad you like them.
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaransonT3 wrote:
Re-drilled the drums and rotors for the 4x100mm pattern and pressed in studs.
Shocked

They say it can't be done Exclamation Thinnes/weakens/etc/blah/blah. Is the secret sticking to a 4 lug pattern?

Currently, Porsche 2 Liters, but that may change quickly, depending on John's answer. Laughing

Fasty69
I’ve got rotating gallery of cars I like as a screen saver. Mostly VW’s, & almost all T3’s.
Yours is the first Fastback. Those Interceptors are SO much cooler than 8 spokes.
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air-Cooled Head wrote:
jaransonT3 wrote:
Re-drilled the drums and rotors for the 4x100mm pattern and pressed in studs.
Shocked

They say it can't be done Exclamation Thinnes/weakens/etc/blah/blah. Is the secret sticking to a 4 lug pattern?

Currently, Porsche 2 Liters, but that may change quickly, depending on John's answer. Laughing

Not in my experience. I have over 30K miles on my re-drilled drums and rotors without any problems what so ever.

I think the key is using the press-in studs, instead of drilling and tapping and continuing to use the lug bolts. Both the rotor and the rear hub have thickened areas where the threaded holes are for the lug bolts. I am sure this is to give the bolts enough thread engagement. If you rotate off the stock pattern by 45 degrees, you are in an area of each that is thinner, but still plenty thick for the press-in studs. I wouldn't want to drill and tap the thin area and rely on it for holding the wheels on. Maybe only half a diameter of thickness there....not enough.

Also, in the rear I am using the two drum retaining bolts, although I modified them to be a flathead so that they don't interfer with the wheel. I am using them since the 4x100 pattern is very close to the inner edge of the drum. I actually ended up with notches on the inner diameter rather than holes for the studs.

I think sticking to a 4 bolt pattern makes it much easier. If you rotate the pattern 45 degrees for the front rotors, you are in relatively flat area and one that is the same for all the studs.

In the rear, I rotated the pattern 22.5 degrees to avoid the drum retraining bolts. Again the thickness and shape of the hub is the same for all 4 studs.

If you go to a 5 bolt pattern, all of the studs will see a somewhat different thickness and shape on the back of the rotor/hub. Not really a big deal since you want to machine a nice flat for the stud to press against, but it is still a bit more work.

Again.....no issues for 30K miles. Go for it.
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911Notch
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Flat 4/Enkei's with LanD Products billet center caps.
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaransonT3 wrote:
I think the key is using the press-in studs, instead of drilling and tapping and continuing to use the lug bolts.

That's about 1/3 the reason for even thinking about this Laughing
jaransonT3 wrote:
Both the rotor and the rear hub have thickened areas where the threaded holes are for the lug bolts. If you rotate off the stock pattern by 45 degrees, you are in an area of each that is thinner, but still plenty thick for the press-in studs.


So you'd rotate 45 degrees, just for the flatness, even if going w/ a 4x100 pattern? Theoretically, the same web could be used.

jaransonT3 wrote:
Also, in the rear I am using the two drum retaining bolts, although I modified them to be a flathead so that they don't interfer with the wheel. I am using them since the 4x100 pattern is very close to the inner edge of the drum. I actually ended up with notches on the inner diameter rather than holes for the studs.


And since I have rear discs, I won't have to worry about this? Just do the same as the front?

If that's the case, we be rolling 17s real soon!
Thanks!
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Last edited by Air-Cooled Head on Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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tomnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking Good ^^^^, Matt!
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air-Cooled Head wrote:

jaransonT3 wrote:
Both the rotor and the rear hub have thickened areas where the threaded holes are for the lug bolts. If you rotate off the stock pattern by 45 degrees, you are in an area of each that is thinner, but still plenty thick for the press-in studs.


So you'd rotate 45 degrees, just for the flatness, even if going w/ a 4x100 pattern? Theoretically, the same web could be used.

I think you have to rotate the 45 degrees. If you don't the holes for the studs will almost overlap the old tapped holes for the lug bolts.

130mm DIAMETER...65mm Radius.
100mm Diameter....50mm radius

only 15mm between the centers of the holes. My press-in studs and the original lug bolts are 12 or 14mm in diameter (i don't remember off-hand, but either way)....so not much material between the holes.
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911Notch
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tom! see you in a couple weeks.
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67stang302
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaransonT3 wrote:
Air-Cooled Head wrote:

jaransonT3 wrote:
Both the rotor and the rear hub have thickened areas where the threaded holes are for the lug bolts. If you rotate off the stock pattern by 45 degrees, you are in an area of each that is thinner, but still plenty thick for the press-in studs.


So you'd rotate 45 degrees, just for the flatness, even if going w/ a 4x100 pattern? Theoretically, the same web could be used.

I think you have to rotate the 45 degrees. If you don't the holes for the studs will almost overlap the old tapped holes for the lug bolts.

130mm DIAMETER...65mm Radius.
100mm Diameter....50mm radius

only 15mm between the centers of the holes. My press-in studs and the original lug bolts are 12 or 14mm in diameter (i don't remember off-hand, but either way)....so not much material between the holes.


I rotated the 45 deg. and used 12mm screw in studs. I just slapped the rotors, hubs, drums into a CNC machine and had it drill and tap the new bolt pattern for 4X100mm I have logged 25,000 miles with 40 series tires (thin side wall) and have had no troubles with the new bolt pattern.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before: Rubbed.
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During:
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After:
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I have always prefered stock wheels.
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