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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32632 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Hey pottie mouth... No need to get biligerant!
Seriously...which if the two hoses do I felate? |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26325 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Stick a hose on it, it's the vacuum fitting that points toward the front of the car, and suck on the other end, and watch the breaker plate for motion. it will take a pretty strong suction to move. It should hold vacuum as well. If it doesn't hold vacuum, and the hose isn't leaking, the diaphragm has gone bad. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Going out for the suck fest right now. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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Moves the plate and holds excellently. Thanks guys. |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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djkeev wrote: |
Just a note.....
When cylinders # 1 & 3 are TDC, the case mark is up and the crank pulley key is 90 degrees to the LEFT from the case seam........
Dave |
Interesting.
The pulley that came on my early bay had a TDC mark from the factory, and I noticed it was about 13* off from the new one I installed last year. This picture made me feel better about my new one, but have you ever seen an aftermarket pulley as incorrect as mine? I'll post pictures if I can find them. _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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Lebleboojian Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010 Posts: 56 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:32 pm Post subject: 1500cc engine |
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I have a single port 1500cc engine. I'm trying to align the pulley with cam and distributor alignment. help |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:41 am Post subject: Re: 1500cc engine |
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Lebleboojian wrote: |
I have a single port 1500cc engine. I'm trying to align the pulley with cam and distributor alignment. help |
You will need to provide more info if you want help.
Do you have a stock pulley or an aftermarket "degreed pulley"?
If it is stock, does it have a (TDC) dimple on the rear facing lip?
How many notches? Look back a few pages and determine which stock pulley you have.
What model distributor do you have installed? (Use a mirror and look at the front side of the distributor body for the numbers stamped into the metal body)
The crank and the camshaft are "aligned" when the case is assembled. The index marks on the crank+ cam gears are meshed. There is no adjustment to this once the case is sealed.
The crank pulley is directly mounted to the crank with no adjustments. This means the cam and crank pulley are also indexed by default.
*The only problem here is if you have a cheap crank pulley which is incorrectly marked.
What kind of crank pulley alignment are you trying to make?
The distributor CAN be adjusted. Either by adjusting the timing in the normal way (small adjustments in distributor position that effect ignition timing), or by removing the distributor and reindexing the drive gear below the distributor. The drive gear has 12-teeth which means you can make large 30-deg (camshaft deg) changes in the position of the #1 cylinder spark plug wire around the distributor cap.
Did you want to change where #1 cylinder was around the distributor cap? Or area tough just trying to set the timing?
Normally, the drive gear is installed in the stock position and left there for the life of the engine.
*If you were to move the engine into a T2 Bus or T3 you might re-index the drive gear to orient the distributor correctly in the new engine compartment. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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xavi_242 Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 1672 Location: Barcelona (SPAIN)
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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So after read all that pages I assume that the just one 'v' notch pulley on the 1600 AB engine in the 68 bay I'm timing stands for 5* ATDC... Right?
Pulley is 170mm diameter... _________________ 1967 Split SO-42 Dormobile |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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xavi_242 wrote: |
So after read all that pages I assume that the just one 'v' notch pulley on the 1600 AB engine in the 68 bay I'm timing stands for 5* ATDC... Right?
Pulley is 170mm diameter... |
For the record, AB engine never came in a new Volkswagen to the USA, so I don't know much about what it would have come with
Second, and again this goes for everyone with a stock pulley, there is absolutely no way of knowing if your pulley is the same that came on your engine from the factory. A US '68 bay would have had two notches for 7.5* and 10*, and a dimple for TDC. Only cars with vacuum retard capabilities (usually '71 plus) have ATDC markings.
EDIT: corrected some of my narrow world view _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
Last edited by airschooled on Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:01 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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asiab3 wrote: |
xavi_242 wrote: |
So after read all that pages I assume that the just one 'v' notch pulley on the 1600 AB engine in the 68 bay I'm timing stands for 5* ATDC... Right?
Pulley is 170mm diameter... |
First off, an AB engine never came in a new Volkswagen. AB and AD were both 1600 replacement cases offered from the factory as parts. They were then built since '73 in Mexico, Brazil, and Germany.. |
According to this listing the AB case was used for the '71-'73 1300cc non-US T1 engine, and xavi_242 is located in Spain.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php
xavi_242, the only real way to know what your single notch represents is to measure. Two methods that I can think of:
1) Insert a TDC tool into #1 spark plug hole. Rotate the crank until it is almost at TDC. Tighten the tool until it contacts the piston. Chalk mark the crank pulley where it meets the case split. Rotate the engine almost one revolution in the opposite direction until the piston again contacts the TDC tool. Chalk mark the pulley again. Now make a permanent mark half-way between the two marks. This is your true TDC. If your single notch is counter-clockwise from this TDC mark it is 5ATDC.
2) Remove the crank pulley. Print out this degree wheel.
Line up the 270° mark with the center of the woodruff key slot in the inner diameter of the pulley. The 0° mark on the paper wheel will be TDC. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
asiab3 wrote: |
xavi_242 wrote: |
So after read all that pages I assume that the just one 'v' notch pulley on the 1600 AB engine in the 68 bay I'm timing stands for 5* ATDC... Right?
Pulley is 170mm diameter... |
First off, an AB engine never came in a new Volkswagen. AB and AD were both 1600 replacement cases offered from the factory as parts. They were then built since '73 in Mexico, Brazil, and Germany.. |
According to this listing the AB case was used for the '71-'73 1300cc non-US T1 engine, and xavi_242 is located in Spain.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php |
Whoops… Thank you!
For anyone using the print-out pulley, make sure you print it out at the right size, or your marks may be a little off. Printers tend to thing that they know what's best when it comes to size _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31379 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
2) Remove the crank pulley. Print out this degree wheel.
Line up the 270° mark with the center of the woodruff key slot in the inner diameter of the pulley. The 0° mark on the paper wheel will be TDC.[/list] |
Actually, I think you only would need to remove the pulley bolt and washer to do this.
You can use a plastic drinking straw on the piston top to determine TDC through the spark plug hole. Do NOT use a pencil, or you'll be crying about an eraser stuck in your combustion chamber.
With that printed pulley diagram, you can also mark like 30-32 BTDC which would be total advance at like 3000 rpm no matter what distributor you have. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Desertbusman Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 14655 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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No matter what, it's all about where TDC actually is. There are various ways to get in the ballpark but a stop tool and the correct proceedure is the only real dead nuts method.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_sabc?url=search-...enter+tool _________________ 71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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xavi_242 Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 1672 Location: Barcelona (SPAIN)
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Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot guys!
Will try to find TDC with some of the above methods and then figure what that notch is.
Thanks! _________________ 1967 Split SO-42 Dormobile |
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djshutup Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2013 Posts: 190 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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I am assuming what I have is a stock pulley but not 100%.
I have 2 marks that when I held up to the degree templates are ~ 3 degree difference so I am assuming the notches are 7.5 and 10.
The interesting thing is on the opposite side of the pulley there is a single notch but it doesn't correspond in an exact line opposite of the 0 degree mark I made using the templates lining up the 7 and 10 degree mark as reference.
Dizzy is 0-231-137-009
the white painted marks to the left I just painted on using the template held to 7 and 10
Found a little oil puddle when I took the pulley tin off now I got to keep an eye on it lol _________________ 1967 Volkswagen Bug (stock). 1980 Yamaha XS400 Special II (stock). Ya I like stock classics |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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While it is probably okay to use the timing marks... you should base your marks off a known good index. That would be the woodruff key slot at 270-deg. Center and align the 270-deg line through the center of the key slot.
The notch at the 180-deg point is probably for setting valve gap on cylinders #2 & #4. Being off by a few degrees here won't make any difference in the valve gap. Just be sure not to use this notch for ignition timing. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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djshutup Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2013 Posts: 190 Location: United States
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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I was looking for a wood-ruff key and didn't see it. I am known to be blind do you have to take stuff apart to get to the key? _________________ 1967 Volkswagen Bug (stock). 1980 Yamaha XS400 Special II (stock). Ya I like stock classics |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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vwkind wrote: |
I was looking for a wood-ruff key and didn't see it. I am known to be blind do you have to take stuff apart to get to the key? |
You will need to remove the crank pulley bolt/washer to see the key slot in the crank:
In the above pic you can see the slot at 9-o'clock and the white TDC mark at 12-o'clock. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Randyfukeway Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Raleigh, NC
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Posted: Sat May 24, 2014 7:59 am Post subject: Cylinder #3 Fires at 7.5 BTDC |
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FINALLY got myself a '74 Beetle yesterday. I was checking the timing and cylinder#3 fires at 7.5 BTDC. I know enough about checking the timing and making the necessary adjustments. I am not sure what to do with this situation. Is this a big deal, or should I do something different? |
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