Timing Marks on Stock Pulley

[darbyjack]

Had a quick look without loosening and turning it around, I managed to read

JFUD4
0 231 268

It's a single vacuum advance


There's no flat spot and engine sounds normal at all RPM speeds. Very smooth ride.
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1970 VW Beetle standard. 1600 DP engine

Right hand drive from UK of course!

[ashman40]

[darbyjack]

Ok I had a proper look, it's:

JFUD4
0 231 168 015
043 905 205 L

with an EMPI carb 34PCT thingy


edit: wow that's a long list, couldn't find that exact number but similar. I have electric ignition, no points
_________________
1970 VW Beetle standard. 1600 DP engine

Right hand drive from UK of course!

[darbyjack]

Now I'm super confused how to correctly time it
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1970 VW Beetle standard. 1600 DP engine

Right hand drive from UK of course!

[Mr.Duncan]

[ashman40]

[darbyjack]

Okay I got a pro to time it and set up the carb and now it semms all good Can't remember what he said. Something like 7.5BTDC and 30-32 on max advance and reset the carb.

I need to rebuild the bloody carb though >.>
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1970 VW Beetle standard. 1600 DP engine

Right hand drive from UK of course!

[Lebleboojian]

Ok this may seem like a silly question, but i'm trying to align the timing. The first thing I did was the gear marks on the cam and crankshaft aligned. The engine code starts with FO which means it's a 1966 block 1300cc. timing is 7.5 btdc. So with the pulley installed, it has the large bump and the two V notches to the right. The first V notch is the 7.5 btdc mark. Does this V mark align with the dot on the right side of the block Or dose the bump on the pulley align with the center of the case?

[ashman40]

[Bob Brugge]

I have 009 Dizzy, 34 pict3 carb, 4 notches on my crank pulley and no dimple
I have a v notch, a w notch and another v notch. Sorry I can't post a pic. You would all probably make mean jokes anyway as I painted my engine to look like a happy meal AND I have the fuel filter in the engine bay.
I did the best I knew how to get it to TDC which as far as I can tell is the right hand side of the w notch. coming home today it was about 150 degrees or more on the road. When I got it home it had a slight knock. After letting it cool for a few hours, I restarted it and there is no longer a knock.
OK, so 009 dizzy times to 0TDC, right?
Any reason I would have 4 stupid notches on a stock looking crank pulley?
Any reason I have oil on the back of the pulley in the outer lip on OD?
My oil level seems to be raising slightly and smells like gas, got real dirty in a few hundred miles, and generally just scares the crap out of me as I thought I knew what I was doing, but now am not so sure.
Thoughts, jokes, etc??

[Randy in Maine]

If it were me, I would get the carb rebuilt to ensure that the gas in my oil i snot coming from the float valve. If that did not fix the problem I would be looking at the fuel pump. Change the oil before you run it or new main bearings will be yoru next project.

Invest in a degree pulley so you will know for a fact.

Time your 009 distributor as it says here....while you are looking for a better distributor for your application.


http://type2.com/library/electrip/bosch009.htm

[borninabus]

this thread should be re-titled "how to time a VW".
how many times can you guys explain this?

anywho....
i have a stock pulley that i am absolutely sure is original to the AE code engine in my 71 KG Autostick.
it has timing marks that are like no other listed in any manual or even this thread.
i have owned this car for over 20 years and have always timed it using the big, yellow mark in the photo--which i am now begining to think is wrong.

after reviewing this thread i am starting to think that i have 5ATDC and either 7.5 or 10BTDC, but no TDC dimple:

the two "factory" marks (left) are 13/16" apart.
the third "advance" mark (right) appears to be homemade and does not correspond to any max advance i would use relative to either mark.
i run a german o34, but it left the factory with a DVDA.

what say you, pulley experts?
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[Randy in Maine]

If you print out the little diagram, you could compare.

[Bob Brugge]

[Randy in Maine]

Try timing the 009 correctly first.

Retarded timing will generate high oil temps.

Perhaps the carb is just running rich. How do those plugs look?

[kreemoweet]

So why do you think that mark is TDC? You just "assumed"? Most pulleys with marks in that pattern
would be at 10 deg BTDC at your assumed TDC mark.

Marks can appear ANYWHERE on the pulley. There is NO way to distinguish "factory" marks from marks made by
some PO, frequently operating under mistaken notions of engine position. You MUST determine what is the "real"
TDC on #1 piston compression stroke independently from any pulley or distributor mark.
_________________
'67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[borninabus]

after some careful measurements with a spare (normal) pulley and a seamstress tape, it would appear that i am correct.
my pulley has a 5A and a 7.5B notch and no TDC dimple.
one for strobe and one for static, i guess?

i do know that VW introduced strobe timing around the time my car was made; around the beginning of more strict US emissions requirements.

so my pulley is "pre-TDC-dimple"?...or is something Autostick specific?
insights welcomed
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[glutamodo]

[Bob Brugge]

[ashman40]

There are three ways to accurately find TDC. I've ranked them here from least accurate to most....

1) TDC mark on the crank pulley.
Pro: This is most commonly acceptable method for finding TDC, and is quickest if there is a clear TDC mark.
Con: As indicated above it is not always clear which notch/mark is TDC. Also, some stock pullies did NOT have a TDC mark. And, some aftermarket pullies are not always accurately marked so you cannot be sure the TDC mark is really TDC.

2) Woodruff key slot in crank pulley. This should be located at the "9-o'clock" position when the #1 cylinder is at TDC.
Pro: Using a (paper) degree wheel you can accurately mark the location of TDC by lining up 270deg (-90deg) on the wheel with the center of the key slot.
Con: You may need to remove the crank pulley to properly line up degree wheel and mark the pulley. There is also a small chance that the woodruff key is NOT perfectly cut at the 9-o'clock position of the crank or the crank pulley.

3) Piston position (TDC) tool (most accurate). This is the tool that you screw into the spark plug hole (you can make one from an old spark plug and a bolt). You extend the threaded piece so it contacts the piston just before it reaches TDC. With a pencil, mark the pulley where it lines up with the case split. Rotate the engine almost 360-deg in the opposite direction until the tool contacts the piston again. Make another pencil mark on the pulley where the case split lines up. Now make a permanent mark between these two pencil marks. This is TRUE TDC for that cylinder.
Pro: Most accurate method for finding TDC. Takes into account any alignment weaknesses in the case, crank or pulley. No dependancy on existing marks or indicators.
Con: Need of a special (DIY) tool and the spark plugs need to be removed (at least #1 plug).

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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}