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How to save a case, from a case saver (pics)
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SkrapMetal
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:36 pm    Post subject: How to save a case, from a case saver (pics) Reply with quote

I decided to do a little "how to" that will hopefully help someone else in the future... maybe good enough for a sticky? I have to give credit to 'rterfert' for giving me the idea, and for the help.

I started leaking oil badly, and found that a case saver on cylinder #4 was stripped out. After doing some homework, I figured either new case, or try to fix it. With having 94mm jugs, sometimes there's a price to pay.

At first glance, you can see there's a few more threads sticking out than there should be. So, first order of business.... pull the engine, remove the head.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After pulling the engine, and removing the head, I double nutted the stud and removed it. You can see just how far it had been pulled out. Since the area between the hole for the piston and the hole for the case saver is so close, tapping for new threads is simply out of the question.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

To remove the case saver, I put two nuts on the end of the stud, put a big nut on the end of the case saver, then reinserted the stud and butted the nuts up together so I could loosen and remove the case saver. As you can see, most of the threads from the case came out with the case saver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I took the case saver, and an extra head stud washer (since they are thick) and went to an experienced welder and had him weld the nut to the back of the case saver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

For this part, you'll need long thin fingers (or needlenose plyers). I applied a little loctite (the blue removable kind) to the inside of the case saver, then threaded the stud into it. After drying for a day, I double nutted the end of the stud, and slowly turned the case saver inward until it was all the way in.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

As you can see here, the washer doesn't exactly clear for the piston, so I had to draw a line with a marker so I knew what to grind off. I turned the pulley slowly with a wrench and found that I also had to grind a little from the right side because the back of the rod from cylinder #2 would hit it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Finally, I got the engine to turn over completely, without anything hitting or rubbing. SO essentially... it's fixed. Just have to reattach the head, torque it, and hope that it holds. While this may work for some locations on the engine, I cannot guarantee it will work in others.

So now I have to ask one question....

Does anyone happen to know exactly how much parts expand with heat and all? The reason I ask is because I feel that the back side of the rod from cylinder #2 might expand and hit the washer thats attached to the case saver. I know thats not an easy question to answer but a little truth wouldn't hurt. Very Happy
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SRP1
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SkrapMetal
You will need .040" to be safe between moving and non moving parts and that goes for most any engine. I have seen less but that is considered the absolute safe minimum.
Hope this helps.
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SkrapMetal
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SRP1 wrote:
SkrapMetal
You will need .040" to be safe between moving and non moving parts and that goes for most any engine. I have seen less but that is considered the absolute safe minimum.
Hope this helps.


Wow, I really didn't think anyone would know. Thanks!! I'm going to grind off a very thin layer from the washer, just to be safe, then start putting it all back together again. I'll post a video when I'm through, if I don't run into any problems.
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rterfert
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a winner
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it. Hopefully this keeps the leak at bay, too. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seeing as how it was cut for the larger cyls that is your only shot VS specialty welding and re machining the case... I hope it holds for you...
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rterfert
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well is it running yet Question Question

Iquiring minds wish to know Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good job. thats using the old noodel. JD.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great idea. Cool
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SkrapMetal
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rterfert wrote:
Well is it running yet Question Question

Iquiring minds wish to know Very Happy


Not running yet, but the head is on, torqued up, and it's holding. I'm waiting on some gaskets, and a jack that goes a bit higher, so maybe a week or so. The real test is yet to come.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great idea!

Now...what do you do when you pull the threads out of the deep-stud on the #3 cylinder?
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rterfert
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stripped66 wrote:
Great idea!

Now...what do you do when you pull the threads out of the deep-stud on the #3 cylinder?


Should be able to do the same thing?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stripped66 wrote:
Great idea!

Now...what do you do when you pull the threads out of the deep-stud on the #3 cylinder?


swap in a single 10mm stud? Shocked
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SkrapMetal
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and it lives again!


Link


Took it out for a 30 min drive on the interstate and around town. Runs and drives well. No oil leaking from the repair area. Thanks to all who helped me!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

miniman82 wrote:
Stripped66 wrote:
Great idea!

Now...what do you do when you pull the threads out of the deep-stud on the #3 cylinder?


swap in a single 10mm stud? Shocked


Sink a stud insert in it??? There are several larger OD pitch thread sizes to choose from to fix that one.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can I have a Hell Ya! Good job, and great idea.
Looks and sounds great.
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