Joined: January 18, 2006 Posts: 2550 Location: Texarkana, TX
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:36 pm Post subject: How to save a case, from a case saver (pics)
I decided to do a little "how to" that will hopefully help someone else in the future... maybe good enough for a sticky? I have to give credit to 'rterfert' for giving me the idea, and for the help.
I started leaking oil badly, and found that a case saver on cylinder #4 was stripped out. After doing some homework, I figured either new case, or try to fix it. With having 94mm jugs, sometimes there's a price to pay.
At first glance, you can see there's a few more threads sticking out than there should be. So, first order of business.... pull the engine, remove the head.
After pulling the engine, and removing the head, I double nutted the stud and removed it. You can see just how far it had been pulled out. Since the area between the hole for the piston and the hole for the case saver is so close, tapping for new threads is simply out of the question.
To remove the case saver, I put two nuts on the end of the stud, put a big nut on the end of the case saver, then reinserted the stud and butted the nuts up together so I could loosen and remove the case saver. As you can see, most of the threads from the case came out with the case saver.
I took the case saver, and an extra head stud washer (since they are thick) and went to an experienced welder and had him weld the nut to the back of the case saver.
For this part, you'll need long thin fingers (or needlenose plyers). I applied a little loctite (the blue removable kind) to the inside of the case saver, then threaded the stud into it. After drying for a day, I double nutted the end of the stud, and slowly turned the case saver inward until it was all the way in.
As you can see here, the washer doesn't exactly clear for the piston, so I had to draw a line with a marker so I knew what to grind off. I turned the pulley slowly with a wrench and found that I also had to grind a little from the right side because the back of the rod from cylinder #2 would hit it.
Finally, I got the engine to turn over completely, without anything hitting or rubbing. SO essentially... it's fixed. Just have to reattach the head, torque it, and hope that it holds. While this may work for some locations on the engine, I cannot guarantee it will work in others.
So now I have to ask one question....
Does anyone happen to know exactly how much parts expand with heat and all? The reason I ask is because I feel that the back side of the rod from cylinder #2 might expand and hit the washer thats attached to the case saver. I know thats not an easy question to answer but a little truth wouldn't hurt. _________________ oo9less since 2007
-72 Ghia-
20W-50 makes baby Jesus cry
Grand Theft Auto Karmann Ghia Mod
Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 3920 Location: Escondido, CA
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:47 pm Post subject:
SkrapMetal
You will need .040" to be safe between moving and non moving parts and that goes for most any engine. I have seen less but that is considered the absolute safe minimum.
Hope this helps.
Joined: January 18, 2006 Posts: 2550 Location: Texarkana, TX
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:54 pm Post subject:
SRP1 wrote:
SkrapMetal
You will need .040" to be safe between moving and non moving parts and that goes for most any engine. I have seen less but that is considered the absolute safe minimum.
Hope this helps.
Wow, I really didn't think anyone would know. Thanks!! I'm going to grind off a very thin layer from the washer, just to be safe, then start putting it all back together again. I'll post a video when I'm through, if I don't run into any problems. _________________ oo9less since 2007
-72 Ghia-
20W-50 makes baby Jesus cry
Grand Theft Auto Karmann Ghia Mod
Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4407 Location: SW CR IA US NA PE
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:42 pm Post subject:
I like it. Hopefully this keeps the leak at bay, too. _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- daily driver status while I work on the other two
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19612 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:46 pm Post subject:
Seeing as how it was cut for the larger cyls that is your only shot VS specialty welding and re machining the case... I hope it holds for you... _________________ my seller feedback rebuilt carb info = for sale
"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait!
Joined: January 18, 2006 Posts: 2550 Location: Texarkana, TX
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:32 pm Post subject:
rterfert wrote:
Well is it running yet
Iquiring minds wish to know
Not running yet, but the head is on, torqued up, and it's holding. I'm waiting on some gaskets, and a jack that goes a bit higher, so maybe a week or so. The real test is yet to come. _________________ oo9less since 2007
-72 Ghia-
20W-50 makes baby Jesus cry
Grand Theft Auto Karmann Ghia Mod
Took it out for a 30 min drive on the interstate and around town. Runs and drives well. No oil leaking from the repair area. Thanks to all who helped me! _________________ oo9less since 2007
-72 Ghia-
20W-50 makes baby Jesus cry
Grand Theft Auto Karmann Ghia Mod
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