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Sunroof installation
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obus Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:36 pm    Post subject: Sunroof installation Reply with quote

how hard is this do? i need to put a new cover on my 21 window bus. i have the pages that show it kind of taken apart but what do you guys suggest? not many old school vw upholstery shops here in NJ. or can any upholstery shop do it? i have the cover already. Aslo, is this a good time to do the headliner as well or can i wait til i get some $cratch?

Updated tutorial later in this thread
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2002 4:06 pm    Post subject: sunroof installation Reply with quote

Check out some of the pages at vintagebus.com they have some copies of original instructions for removing & refitting a sunroof. pics are not too bad. Go www.vintagebus.com/howto/sunroof.htmlo
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2002 7:24 pm    Post subject: sunroof installation Reply with quote

i put on my cover, not hard. measure twice...
pop riveted the front mechanism last, don't do this. do it first & tension to the rear retainer. save your cash & find the og slider blocks. the new plastic crap broke on mine after 2-3 openings. a pro shop is recommended for the headliner. too many potential problems for the novice to make. it is expensive ($800 labor) but you'll appreciate the quality work later! good luck!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2002 7:42 pm    Post subject: sunroof installation Reply with quote

are the slider blocks the same for beetle and bus or strictly bus? i have never seen these at shows. i guess i would have to buy a whole clip? Ugh!! and 800 bucks for the headliner labor??
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CheapBusForSale
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:58 pm    Post subject: How-to? Reply with quote

I am thinking about doing the same thing. All my blocks are in pretty good shape and the thing slides pretty well. but the problem I'm having is that when I got my bus the top was completely gone, with only little bits of the original top left which makes it just about impossible for me to figure out how the top should installed. And I can see that the rear part of the fabric goes under the screwed down metal band and that the front goes under the rivets (which I'm guessing that I will need to pop the rivets and install new ones) but what I'm really confused about is how the canvas is supposed to fit on the sliders? Does anyone know of a how-to manual that might explain it all in detail?
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Kelly
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe this will help..

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=719997
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.sanborn7.com/bullis/forum/phpBB-3.0.2/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=131
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2Pack
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a couple of threads in the Split Bus FAQ that may help. Look under "Interior/Seats/Seal". If you don't see what you need I would post in one of those threads with what you need.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:26 am    Post subject: Re: How-to? Reply with quote

CheapBusForSale wrote:
but what I'm really confused about is how the canvas is supposed to fit on the sliders? Does anyone know of a how-to manual that might explain it all in detail?


The canvas is screwed to the ends of the bows with finish washers. Be certain the bows are all in their correct place BEFORE you poke holes in the canvas and attch it with the screws. The rear part of the bow (round tube that flattens at the ends needs) to be fitted into the pockets on each side. You will need to make a small slit in the canvas for this piece to slide into. This helps hold the canvas in place when sliding the top back.

Canvas attached at rear tack strip:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


3 finish washers/screws:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Slit marked in canvas pocket:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bow inserted in pocket slit: (Looking from side, canvas edge lifted up)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Stanw3 on Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Stanw3
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finish washers: Underside is rolled so it won't cut into the canvas -
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Attached to bow:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:27 am    Post subject: Re: How-to? Reply with quote

Stanw3 wrote:
You will need to make a small slit in the canvas for this piece to slide into. This helps hold the canvas in place when sliding the top back.


interesting..I didn't do that to mine. It slides open and closed fine but I wonder how much of a difference the slits would make? Where's my razor blade Shocked
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure it makes a huge difference - but it's how I was taught to do it. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ev - Here is the headliner screw and finish washer pic you asked about. Note the smooth, tapered end.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stanw3 wrote:
Attached to bow:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And the little imbedded strap goes under the end not sandwiched under the canvas side with the screw and washer.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry -

Are you saying that the strap that is sewn into the pocket does not have the screw through it? I ran the screw through it: both sides of the canvas pocket and the inner webbing on mine. I was told this helps insure the pull stress is is on the web and not the canvas itself???

Edit: I did also uses slightly longer than original stainless screws here. Originals weren't long enough once I added the flat metal piece fills the gap on the aluminum part of the bows. I assumed the webbing and new stay fast canvas were causing the shortage.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - Time to eat some crow. Smile My buddy Jorge looked at Henry's 56 today and whoever built it did things as Barry is saying. The end of the bow where the finish screw attaches does in fact go inside of the pocket. The enclosed webbing and the bottom of the canvas pocket are under the bow with no screw in them.

Hope it helps someone else in the future. I'll be outside changing mine now. Wink

Edit: Just did the passenger side. It does look better as the canvas now down closer to the body of the bus. I'll take some pics tomorrow when I do the driver side.
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Last edited by Stanw3 on Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The enclosed webbing and the bottom of the canvas pocket are under the bow with no screw in them.


Could someone post a photo of this please.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to BarryL for sending me digging. It seals much better now!

Here we go. First pic is the gap between body and canvas with the canvas simply screwed to the top of the bow.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The canvas is of course 2 layers thick on th sides where it is folded and sewn. This creates the "pocket" that the webbing running through. Here is the canvas unscrewed and lifted up. You can see the hole where I had the screw through it and the indentation that the bow has already made.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I cut a slit the width of the bow in the lower side of the canvas - being careful NOT to go through the other (top) layer of canvas. I cut it just to the outside edge of the inner pocket stitch. I didn't want to cut that stitch and have the whole canvas come apart. Shocked I also only cut it just wide enough for the bow to fit in.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I slid the flat metal cover piece in first. I made sure the webbing went under the metal plate as I slid it in.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next put the other end of the metal cover plate into the bow. Now just pull the cover over and slip it over the bow so that the bow goes into the slit you cut. It take a little pulling to get it over and to get the bow in the slit. Here is the gap after making this change: Mucho better!!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



So the order of the materials as you dig down is:

Screw
Finish Washer
Top layer of canvas
Metal Cover plate
Ragtop bow
Inner Webbing
Lower layer of canvas

Hope this helps someone else down the road!
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, I'm trying this tomorrow Very Happy
I'll post how it goes, but hopefully it looks as good as yours!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just so I got this right, the plate and the bow go "in" the canvas? So there's no exposed metal at all, right?
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