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2276 street engine dyno chart
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gerico
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy,

Glad you finally got it together. Let us know how you like after it's jetted and broken in.
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`70 street Ghia, 2276 NA
Thanks to:
Darren at DRD Racing
Jason at VW Paradise
Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans
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Kafer_cj
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading this... and asking around the forum... I will do something close to what you did... I will drive my bug around Transylvania's scenic roads and mountins... in eastern europe.... and I wanted torque... at low revs.... not to kill the engine and heads... in revs... on mountains... hills... up and down:)
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kafer_cj wrote:
I will drive my bug around Transylvania's scenic roads and mountins...


Ahh, Vlad Dracula's country!! Are you going to visit Poenari Castle?
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Kafer_cj
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll visit everything as I will be able to gather all the parts this summer and go home next spring... and put everything together... and drive around... and by the way... the most important aircooled meeting in romania is at Bran, close to Vlad's castle:)
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Kafer_cj
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just can't wait to do that... My bug will have the anniversary next July... 50 years of age... and I will surely be celebrating driving ...
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool! Take lots of pics and post them here on TS somewhere.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Kafer_cj
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll do that for sure... I'll post pictures when I'll get my parts... I think I'll be playing with them like a small kid with his toys...Smile)
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pdub
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerico..what did you end up with for vents on your engine? I think at one post you had 34mm vents and then later had 36mm? Did one work better than the other? I'm haveing Brothers VW build me a similar engine and I have dual 40 IDFs to work with. I was thinking 34mm vents 200 airs, 145 mains and 55 idles?
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pdub
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woops, one post says 32 mm vents and the other 34mm, my bad.
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gerico
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm....can't find my build sheet. Been a while and it was about 2 computers ago so I'll try by memory.

Vents are 34mm, idles are 55, not positive about the rest as I fiddled quite a bit with the jets. I think the mains are 170 and the air 220. You may need to play around with your accelerator pump linkage to get really crisp throttle response.
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Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans
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pdub
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks.
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loki62
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here we go, first SAMBA post ever Very Happy.
Having an engine built and decided to mimic Gericos', sounds like a great combo. Ordered DRD L5 streetmaster heads, and a DRD 298 cam w/1.25 rockers (will give a 532 lift).
This standard 160hp package, lots of low end torque, reving to 6000, was recommended by Darren. We discussed timelines and are looking at 7-10 days on heads, about 2 weeks on AS41 Mag stroker case.
I will keep you posted on how everything works, and hopefully dyno results for all to see.
This is my first build, so I may be asking for advice from the fine folk of the SAMBA.
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gerico
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loki62,

Good for you. Is it going in a Ghia?
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Jason at VW Paradise
Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans
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loki62
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes Gerry, it is going in the 65 ghia pictured in my avatar.
Almost my only change from your build is I was going to go 2332. Belive me, I've been on the top of page 3 of this post trying to mimic almost everything on your build. My mech wants me to run lower CR, so I think I'ii go with 8.5CR.
DRD has change to a new head (L5 Streetmaster).They also changed the camgrinds, so they are different from those listed.
I was really trying to keep the lift down low about .500. How much do you think having a higher lift will affect the low end?
I'm just starting to order all my parts, so advice is still needed.
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gerico
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If Darren is supplying the heads and cam, listen to what he tells you and you won't go wrong. Take his advice on lift, CR, and whatever else he recommends. Just be sure that you are very specific about exactly what you want. An engine built for longivity on the street will be very different from a pure race engine. Any of the pro engine builders have built hundreds of engines so they pretty much know what works and what doesn't.

That's why I got advice and help from people like Darren and Jason Laufer before buying parts and assembling everything. They have been through the learning curve so you don't have to.
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Jason at VW Paradise
Bill at Shear Speed
Kevin at KCR trans
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scootertoo
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:05 pm    Post subject: building a 2276 Reply with quote

Im building a 2276 as41 case scat 82 crank scat h beam mahle 94 p+c w120 cam 42x 37 heads 1.25 rockers. My question is what should I run for CR and for carbs a single 44?? I have a 2000 pound offroad car and need low end torque through 55oo to 6k rpm max. Any thoughs are appreicated. Thanks
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turbodon1776
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

single center mount weber 44 works good for offroad.

only thing i dont like is you are stuck with the stock style end castings which are restrictive when it comes to flow.

how much power are you looking to make?

duals work good but they always seem to rattle their ways out of sync and such when bounching around offroad.

for c/r i say around 9:1
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Donald Michaelson

had a bad ass car but it has departed

2276 Turbo motor
fk87
superflo heads
490HP
9.56 ET

now I clunk around in a 65 baja bug
Chevy Ecotec Engine
091 trans
coilovers, bypasses and all the fun $tuff
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67Beetle2017
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerico,

What type of header did you use?
Tubing size?
Gas Mileage?

Not suprising with 40's making that kind of power. I built an 1835 with 10.3:1 along time ago (1980) make 150HP (Clayton Dyno) with B&B 40X35.5, 1 1/2" fourtuned merged 40IDF's w/34mm vents. I would get about 25-28mpg if driven sensibly.

Nice work.

thanks.
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perrib
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: building a 2276 Reply with quote

scootertoo wrote:
Im building a 2276 as41 case scat 82 crank scat h beam mahle 94 p+c w120 cam 42x 37 heads 1.25 rockers. My question is what should I run for CR and for carbs a single 44?? I have a 2000 pound offroad car and need low end torque through 55oo to 6k rpm max. Any thoughs are appreicated. Thanks

A VZ 15 or W 110 cam should pull tall tires better with the limited carburation.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scootertoo, I would stay with 40 x 35.5 valves at most. The 42 x 37.5's would be lost if you're not reving above 5500 and, if anything, you may lose some low end torque.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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