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Up in smoke... Bus fires... don't let it happen to you! FAQ
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Bala
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yarkle wrote:
Randy, does anyone around us sell that gates hose? I need to do that as well, amongst the thousand other things.


I get mine from O'Reilly.

**edit**

Just adding that you might want to ask nice and go back and look at the hose they have behind the counter. Roll of the dice if the counter person will know what you're talking about. Rolling Eyes
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some 1/4" and 5/16" Barricade hose at our local NAPA.
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DougB
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazon stocks it, you just have to search by the Gates part number (usually a 5-digit code IIRC) as the Amazon product pages don't have specific details on ID or unit length. I've ordered 3 different Gates rolls via Amazon and everytime it was the right product. I bet JEGS has it, too.

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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yarkle wrote:
Randy, does anyone around us sell that gates hose? I need to do that as well, amongst the thousand other things.


Yes you can get it at NAPA but you need to ask for it.
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Yarkle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the original size is 7mm, right? so should i go with 1/4 or 5/16?

1/4 is 6.35..too tight?
5/16 is 7.9mm ..too loose?

now i feel like goldilocks!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is an FI bus and I believe I went with the 5/16" hose, as it was still a good fit on the fittings and injectors. IIRC it was too large for the Type 3 I got back on the road, also FI (though I know it's a different system).
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Yarkle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my sons is a 69, so its carbureted, dunno if that makes a diff?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want metric buy from belemetric.com
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yarkle wrote:
my sons is a 69, so its carbureted, dunno if that makes a diff?


Hmmm, best to wait for a more carb-knowledgeable person to chime in then.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yarkle,

I was thinking that the carbed 69 Sonsbus and Thing requires the 1/4" = 0.25" version. I was thinking that from the factory they were 5.5mm = 0.22".

Somebody will be along in a minute to confirm or refute that.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going by memory, I'm pretty sure I used the 1/4" Gates barricade hose on my 68. I can confirm this afternoon when I get home if no one does before.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For 1971 1600DP/34Pic

Wondering if someone had a picture of the fuel line routing between tank and pump, especially into the engine compartment. My line has a filter after the tank, then comes through the left side engine seal/tin, seems like a bad place.

Also can I route a long fuel line between pump/carb to place a filter just above the left side engine seal/tin? It's currently very close to the engine.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smushy wrote:
For 1971 1600DP/34Pic

Wondering if someone had a picture of the fuel line routing between tank and pump, especially into the engine compartment. My line has a filter after the tank, then comes through the left side engine seal/tin, seems like a bad place.

Also can I route a long fuel line between pump/carb to place a filter just above the left side engine seal/tin? It's currently very close to the engine.


Don't put a filter in the engine compartment. First, you already have a filter after the tank, so you don't need another filter. Second, the pump has a screen in it already. You want the filter before the pump to keep all the crap out of the pump.

Thirdly, the extra weight of a filter between pump and carb is thought to be a factor in the not terribly uncommon occurrence of the carb inlet pipe popping out of the carb and dumping gas all over the engine.

If I remember correctly, the area where the line comes through the tin should be a metal line with a grommet around it to keep the tin from chafing the metal line and eventually cutting through it.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:


If I remember correctly, the area where the line comes through the tin should be a metal line with a grommet around it to keep the tin from chafing the metal line and eventually cutting through it.


Thanks for the info, I'm going to remove the filter between the pump/carb, it's been on for a while and is still very clean. Do I have to change the screen in the pump ever?

I'll look for a groove for the pump line... but right now it's hanging loose through the engine tin and broken seals (I have new tin seals in the mail).
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smushy wrote:
sjbartnik wrote:


If I remember correctly, the area where the line comes through the tin should be a metal line with a grommet around it to keep the tin from chafing the metal line and eventually cutting through it.


Thanks for the info, I'm going to remove the filter between the pump/carb, it's been on for a while and is still very clean. Do I have to change the screen in the pump ever?

I'll look for a groove for the pump line... but right now it's hanging loose through the engine tin and broken seals (I have new tin seals in the mail).


You shouldn't have to change the screen in the pump if you have a filter before the pump. The filter element will trap smaller particles than the pump screen will.

For a temporary fix for your fuel line passing through the tin, you can find a piece of rubber hose that's big enough on the inside to go around the fuel line and small enough on the outside to fit through the hole in the tin, then cut a section of that hose, cut it open lengthwise so it's a C-shape, put it around the fuel line and slide it into the hole in the tin to act as a buffer between the tin and the hard line.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello all,

So I know this isn't about the current hose discussion, but this does seem to be the place where people discuss fire prevention and suppression, so I thought I post about the Blazecut I just received.

Blazecut seems to be a bit more popular, discussion-wise, over in the Vanagon forums...and a good number of people seem to be running the 6' length. Just wanted to let folks considering the Blazecut know that, according to the instructions, the 12' version might be the better one given the engine compartment volume in our bays. The instructions say that, at 80 degrees C (fire temp?) that the gas contained in the 12' length will handle 1.34 cubic meters of engine bay volume (saturating the atmosphere with the sufficient percentage of chemical to suppress the fire). That seems about right...

...but the 6' version handles significantly less engine bay volume...so I'm just saying that the 6' length might not be enough.

Just wanted to post that for anyone considering it.

- Doug Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always cringe inside whenever I see this thread pop up....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I know, expecting some link to a SoCal 6 o'clock news segment showing some bus engulfed in flames. Guess it's better that the thread is popping up so often because people are taking precautions Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DougB wrote:
Oh I know, expecting some link to a SoCal 6 o'clock news segment showing some bus engulfed in flames. Guess it's better that the thread is popping up so often because people are taking precautions Smile


X2! I hate reading about burning VWs!
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 8:02 pm    Post subject: What items to relocate and where's best? Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I think your mystery object is a transfer valve usually used with a dual tank system on trucks. In your case it may be being used as a fuel cutoff.

Yes relocate your fuel filter to before the pump. I like metal filters myself, you can probably screw a Ford style filter right into the inlet of your pump.


Hi Guys, just to follow up on the advice you gave me. Thanks once again.

I now have some gates barricade and a new metal filter. At the minute in the engine bay I have [ pump > plastic filter > fuel (transfer) shut off valve wired to ign coil > carb].

You guys mention replace the lines - Ok cool with that.. Also to move the filter outside of enginer bay after tank but before pump - Ok cool with that as well.

HOWEVER confused with what to do with pump and fuel shut off, also the order they are in e.g. pump > shut off > carb

1. Should I leave pump inside the engine bay?
2. The fuel shut off is after the pump but before the carb - seller mentioned something about tank siphoning from carb onto the ground (eek Crying or Very sad)??

So what do I do about these two items pump/fuel shut off - leave them where they are, move just the fuel shut off before the pump but outside of engine bay? Heard about issues with fuel evaporating in the line and the ingitition having to stay on few mins to pressurize system again if shut off too far from pump?? Also where's the best place to move them to? Was thinking building a plate under back seat and mouting to that as underside is covered in wax oyl - difficult as fuel cut off unit grounds itself (no -ve wire only +ve).

Any simple advice - with pictures most appreciated as this is first bus I ever owned.

Cheers guys.

DO ( Sooke BC)
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