Brake Bleeding

Mike_CNYBuggy · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 10:49 am Post subject:

I wasn't trying to be creative, I was just wondering if it would work.

I've read about 200+ posts about bleeding the brakes and I don't know what 'bench bleeding the master" is. Also, people have mentioned issues getting the air out of the front wheel cylinders due to their location on the sides of the backing plate.

If there was already fluid in the master and all the lines I would bleed as described, but being that currently there is nothing but air in the system, I figured that pushing the fluid through the lines with the syringe would ensure that all of the wheel cylinders, master and lines would be filled with nothing but fluid. Then I would bleed as described.

so I guess the question remains unanswered, would it work?

Thanks again
Mike

zozo · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 1:43 pm Post subject:

Eric&Barb · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject:

Doubt it.
Best to just fill, pump the pedal and bleed.
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zozo · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 6:49 pm Post subject:

TheWilliamAlan · Samba Member Joined: July 17, 2011 Posts: 129

Ok. Let's see if you guys can help me figure this out. Here's what's goin on.

Had the front beam off my 67 to get narrowed so I figured I'd replace everything around there while it and the gas tank were out. Including both wheel cylinders metal and rubber brake hoses. The brakes worked great before this, but the hoses looked old and the bleeder was broken off of the passenger side so I figures I'd replace it all. Once it's back on I bled the rear brakes right to left just fine. Make it to the front passenger side and nothing. No fluid comes out. Sat and pumped the brakes at least fifty times with the bleeder cup on and nothing. So I checked the master cylinder And fluid is coming out but I guess it's just never reaching the bleeder.

Any suggestions on what to check?

Eric&Barb · Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:27 pm Post subject:

Disconnect the metal line from the flex line on that side. Have helper push brake pedal down and when you tell the helper to let up on the pedal have your finger over the metal line end. Repeat several times till either you get fluid out or figure the metal line is plugged.

Works? Then connect the flex line and repeat above with your finger over the flex line end that would be connected to the wheel cylinder.

Works? Then there is something plugging up the wheel cylinder. Remove the bleeder valve and see if it is plugged.

If bleeder valve is not plugged, remove the wheel cylinder and take apart for inspection.
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decobugma07 · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:59 am Post subject:

So, let me get this straight. You guys say that I have to adjust the brake shoes until the don't move and then start bleeding?

I replace all wheel cylinders and hoses and I spend at list six hours pumping and bleeding. Good pressure comes out from all wheels but lots of air still and no pedal.

Is this because the system was dry as a bone? So the key is keep filling, pumping and bleeding? Over and over and over again?

I let the gravity bleeding last night to run it course. So, I'll see what I am facing this morning.
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 7:29 am Post subject:

Yes, if you have dual circuit MC.
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decobugma07 · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:11 am Post subject:

I have a single system. I had been bleeding it about four times all around and finally I am getting a resistant on the pedal and finally the brake lights come on. No leaks in the system. So far so good. I hope
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 6:17 pm Post subject:

Single circuit still requires adjusting the brake stars for some drag, and does not hurt to have locked up fully.

You should consider going to dual circuit, that way if a wheel cylinder or other brake system part blows out you still have about 50% of the brakes still working.
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decobugma07 · Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:13 am Post subject:

Changed MC (single) and the pedal is back and stronger than ever. So, I end up replacing the whole 47 years old system except for the bracing plates.
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Eric&Barb · Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:44 am Post subject:

Good to hear it is working!
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iluvmybug · Samba Member Joined: March 20, 2006 Posts: 42

eric and barb

done multiple attempt to bleed my 69 bug. Failed so far.
tried locking the brakes. still the same.
any idea what am missing.

next plan is just buy the motive power bleeder.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:37 pm Post subject:

Would be helpful to have some history.

Like:

Just got this Beetle and replaced all brake parts, but can not get it to bleed.

Or.

Just pulled this Beetle out of the woods where it sat for many years and trying to bleed the system without replacing or rebuilding any of the brake parts....

If you get a brake bleeder, make sure to get a pressure one.
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iluvmybug · Samba Member Joined: March 20, 2006 Posts: 42

my bug is a weekend warrior.Brakes are in excellent condition before I replaced the mc cause its leaking fluid on the floor.in spite of it leaking still has good brakes.Its my first time to do this repair.

put in new mc. I am pressuming all lines are good.

Tried all the tricks on this thread.

pump .bleed etc no pressure build up.

also notice even if I remove the bleeder from the rear no fluid is coming out.

Thanks.

mukluk · Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:14 pm Post subject:

You say no fluid comes out of the rear with the bleeder removed, is that just on one side or both? Do you get any fluid out of the front? Are you sure fluid is getting to the master cylinder from the reserviour?

If you suspect you might have a blockage then try cracking the line connections open a bit and pump the brake pedal to check for fluid flow to that spot, start at the wheel cylinders and work you way back toward the master cylinder.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:34 pm Post subject:

Are you bleeding the front axle first?? You are not going to get fluid out of the rear till fronts are bled.
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iluvmybug · Samba Member Joined: March 20, 2006 Posts: 42

yes, am I going to feel little resistance once am done with the front ? I dont no matter how I bleed it . I dont see any air coming out but still pedal is soft and goes to the floor without any resistance build up.

left front , bleed ,no more air bubbles , pedal no resistance
right front , bleed , no more air bubbles same , no resistance on the pedal .

iluvmybug · Samba Member Joined: March 20, 2006 Posts: 42

opened the lines near the brakes fluid flowing also on the mc fluid is also flowing when lines unscrewed a little. so fluid present in the lines . In front fluid is being pushed when bled but in the rear I think the fluid is not being pushed.


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Brake Bleeding
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