Brake Bleeding

Eric&Barb · Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:26 pm Post subject:

Yes, keep on bleeding or figure out what is wrong that is not making the pedal stay well away from all the way down.
Push rod adjusted correctly?
Retighten the brake adjusting stars for well locked drums?

The only other possiblity is the MC is bad, which can happen even to new out of the box.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

pantone149 · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:20 am Post subject:

This thing is well worth the three bucks:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37201

Wayne Kerr · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 9:18 pm Post subject:

Have any of you ever had new brake shoes that had slightly too much material on the brake pad, causing the shoe to rub inside the drum prematurely before getting a good starting point adjustment with the star wheels?

A bit vague I know but, i was having a heck of a time trying to fix a "spongy pedal" until i radiused the outside edge of the brake pad (rear wheel) allowing me to get a good starting point adjustment with the star wheel.

A bit tough to convey this one.

Blue69Baja · Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 10:08 am Post subject:

Although this last post was a few weeks ago I want to explain what Wayne was dealing with....
His problem was not that the shoes had too much material on them and thus causing the shoes to drag, even though the star adjusters were completely screwed in.

If you will remove one of the star adjusters and look at the drum to adjuster mating surface you will notice that the grove the shoe sits in is not cut straight across. It is cut on an angle!!!!! If you reassy the adjusters and get the grove 180 out it will make the shoe sit about an 1/8th inch further out.

Check that both sides of the grove makes contact with the shoe. It's difficult to see. I use a mirror.

If you assy these wrong your brakes will be erratic and not seat properly.

Jim

Blue69Baja · Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 10:36 am Post subject:

Brake bleeding...

I've never heard of adjusting the brakes all the way to lock to bleed brakes. I've been bleeding brakes since 1960.

I understand the reasoning though, but, when bleeding is performed properly locking the brakes is not necessary.

When bleeding with two people it needs to be coordinated.

The rules for which wheel to start with is important..Furthest from the Master Cyl first. On my 69 it's the drivers rear.

Use a clear tube connected to the bleed valve. It needs to be angled upwards so you can see the air coming out of the valve. I have plenty of tubing and have it going into a container. If you can't open the bleed valve because the wrench surface is rounded, use a small set of vice grips.

Open the valve about 1/4 turn....

Have your assistant slowly push the pedal down and hold it down....What's slowly??? About 1 second.

Going down too fast will create bubbles!!!

lightly tighten the valve.

Tell your assistant to let the pedal come up.

Wait about 5-10 seconds or more after the pedal is up.

This allows any bubbles that have been trapped in the master cyl to work their way out and head to the reservoir.

Open the valve again

Tell your assistant, "down", make sure it's slow and that they hold it down until you close the valve.

Tell your assistant, "up".

Continue this process until you feel you have completely replaced all the brake fluid in the line from the Master to the wheel cyl. If you have replaced the Master, or have ran the Master DRY it will take quite a bit to get the bubbles from the Master completely out.

You may have to do the bleeding twice....If you can pump the brakes quickly and the pedal comes up a bit drive the car a bit, then rebleed.

Hope this helps some of you.....

I use a Motive power bleeder now.

Jim

Wayne Kerr · Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 9:30 pm Post subject: Brake shoes and star adjusters

Jim,
Thanks for the great post on the star adjusters related to my post on "too much brake shoe material". It's a new one for me. I'll look into it and reply.

67 Shane · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 6:39 am Post subject:

I had the same problem on my 67. Thought there was too much material and the shoes were dragging when adjusted all the way in. The adjusters are angled. Look at the side profile. You will see one side has a bit more meat to it then the other. The notch goes down farther. Try that and you should be good to go.
_________________
-OstKüste-

67 Euro Type 1.
67 SO-42 Westfalia

Harris · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:56 am Post subject: Brake Bleeding

Got in '62 bug Saturday and the brake pedal went all the way to the floor.
Had brakes 3 days earlier. Checked all lines ( in the car as well ) and no wheel cylinder leaks. Has to be the master cylinder which is 2 years old form WW.

Question: I knew to check my push rod on the MC when I installed it, but didn't. If it was too long would that cause a MC failure?

Thanks

thetravman · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Bleeding

Harris · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 2:02 pm Post subject: Brake Bleeding

Well,

That's a little scary, but thanks for telling me. Right hand close to the emergency brake for insurance, or do these things usually die in the garage?

thetravman · Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 2:33 pm Post subject:

Mine all die slowly. Toward the end of about 2 or 3 years, I go and adjust the brakes and they're spongy and low again in no time. You've got brakes awhile still after that but finally you won't be able to bleed the air out as the worn inner piston lets too much air in. In other words they usually die a slow and obvious death rather than fail suddenly. Put in a new one. It's not hard and then you suddenly may have good brakes again.
_________________
Have your car serviced at your local aircooled repair shop today.
/=O=\ good ole swing axles

Rometsch2880 · Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 7:26 pm Post subject:

started to bleed mine this evening and pumped and pumped and never got any pedal. the brakes worked before the car was parked in nov. to have the beam rebuilt. i noticed when pushing the car back in the garage, a little puddle, about the size of a 50 cent piece under the car. i assume the leak is at that rubber hose below the reservoir. my guess is this is why im not building any presure. am i correct?

71-BEETLE-SEDAN · Samba Member Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 195

im in australia and have a 1964 sedan. There is absolutely no brakes. Just the hand brake.

How do i bleed the brakes.

I dont know if i have a duel or single mastercylinder. How do i tell.

Ive read about loosening the bleed valve, where is that.

Im sure these questions are simple but im new to brakes.

Rometsch2880 · Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 2:18 pm Post subject:

unless it was changed, it should be a single circuit. read through this thread though. it will tell you everything you need.

71-BEETLE-SEDAN · Samba Member Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 195

This is going to sound stupid but does any one have a picture of the bleeder valve. Or at least a discription of where it is.

Cheers

Harris · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:41 am Post subject: Brake Bleeding

Ok, I've gone through the links Glenn posted up front and everything else I can find, but still have a question. I'm bleeding a completely dry system on my '62 tomorrow. Brakes are adjusted out to a drag.

Question: I already have my emergency brake adjusted. I'm reading in a couple of places that the e-brake should be adjusted last. My question is why?

Blue69Baja · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:13 am Post subject:

Harris, there is no reason to have tight brakes...but you can if you want.

Why?

When you are bleeding the brakes you are relieving the pressure from the master cyl because you are opening the bleeder valve.

Jim

Harris · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:53 am Post subject: Brake Bleeding

Jim Wrote:

Blue69Baja · Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:00 am Post subject:

It doesn't. When you bleed the wheel cyl's your forcing fluid/air out of the cyl without expanding (moving) the rubber seals (pistons).

Jim

Harris · Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:46 am Post subject: Brake Bleeding

My brakes bled out fine after a short delay. My wife was pushing in on the clutch for the first 10 down, hold, up proceedures. We got no air or fluid from this and had a good laugh. This sticky has a lot of good advice including the links Glenn posted up front.

My suggestion to anyone who hasn't done brakes for a few years is to READ IT All. Start with Glenn's links and then everything else. Print out what you think you need and go over it. Check everything and be patient especially if your starting out with a completely dry system. If you don't have an error in assembly, it has to work.

Thanks,

Lou


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Brake Bleeding
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 9, 10, 11 Next Jump to:

	Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 9, 10, 11 Next Jump to:
Page 4 of 11