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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
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Location: In Molinya Orbit
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:12 am Post subject: |
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| rickpereira wrote: |
| looking good, how close to getting her on the road are you? |
Just got the wiring, the motor and the cabrio top to do.
The wiring is a proper pain because it is a LHD to RHD conversion. Since '66 is the first model year to run the wires down the left side of the car I can't go and buy a LHD loom and simply shorten it... its already too short. I found a guy in Victoria who has made up a loom but there have been a number of dimensional errors and its gone back and forth for a while now. These problems really have slowed progress because I can't close off many jobs like the footwell carpets nor mounting the head lights and so on.
Anyway, I've been doing a few things since the glass went in. First up is putting in the dash. I had to drill holes for the grab handle. So I marked them with a white marker through the holes with the cover in position.
Then I drilled them from the rear with a small 2 mm drill till I pierced the vinyl . The aim was to avoid tears that a large drill could make. I stepped it up to the 5mm required
For the holes over the speedo I rescued the tabs off the old dash and put some tape over them
Then I sat them in the original holes and covered them will adhesive before placing the dash over them. The tape will stick to the underside of the dash top and the glue will bond better than just the tape can over the years.
I also mounted the Clock and speedo dress rings. I had these re-chromed but lost most of the tabs along the way. I simply glued them in with a Sikkens adhesive.
Other things I've done but not yet photographed are swapping out the tyres from 195/60 to 185/60. The 185s is a smaller tyre and it seems to give more clearance front and rear. The 195s were cutting things a bit too tight.
I've taken delivery of a bunch of KS Pistons and barrels for the engine rebuild. Also have sand blasted the cooling fan and the air flow regulators. they look terrific.
No doubt more soon..
Nicholas
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'66 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet...
'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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rcooled
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Joined: September 20, 2008
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 8:04 am Post subject: |
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| sputnick60 wrote: |
| First up is putting in the dash. |
Wow...awesome job, Nicholas! It's that level of detail that seperates a good restoration from a great one.
Was your dash pad sourced from Kevin at Trimtec? If not, where did you get it? How is the fit...especially around the windshield posts? BTW...that's a very clever way of attaching the studs you devised too.
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'63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone) |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 3916
Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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| rcooled wrote: |
| Was your dash pad sourced from Kevin at Trimtec? How is the fit...especially around the windshield posts? |
Almost right. I got it from Jerry Heldt at The Karmann Ghia Company of Australia. Its a RHD dash and it it fits well. Technically the '66 dash should have holes in it for the speaker but nobody makes one. So I got the pre 65 version with the speaker grille. It fits well. The dimensions are close to perfect around the window posts. I can go without having the screw and cup washers in the corners of the dash top as seen quite often but just like my original one did.
Nicholas
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
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Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:33 am Post subject: |
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I've been doing the electrical work and testing as I progress. The rear lights were acting strangely so I added some earth wires to the rear lights. I used a self tapping screw in bracket, an eyelet crimped to the wire at that end and a spade connecter on the other end. The reflectors used here both have a lug for a solid earth connection. The earlier reflectors don't have this, possibly a change around '68. I had just one on the car because the original was replaced with a later type probably as a result of that old collision repair. The second one I got from Gary.
On a similar vein I did the same for the blinkers up front which also have an earth lug in them. You can see the screw lug in the back of the bucket has two brown wires. One of course is for the head light but the other runs in the loom back out of the bucket to the branch going to the blinker.
It terminates on the earth lug inside the later style blinker fitting. Despite the marker being in the Euro Headlight, I'm using the US style fitting with two filaments. A loop of wire is added to connect both filaments in the bulb so they can work together. Might as well use it!
I assembled the headlight into the bucket for the first time in 5 years and gave it a little test using my bench power supply.
It's only one light but that it works in quite a pleasure to see.
Nicholas
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
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| Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:55 am Post subject: |
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I'm having serious doubts about the quality of some reproduction parts on offer. I bought these kick plates a long time ago to replace ones on this car.
I wondered why the screw holes along the carpet edge were missing but proceeded to add them. I used the old ones as a template and transferred the hole locations to a long piece of cardboard. I positioned that onto the new ones, matched the existing holes and drilled in the missing ones.
Even with this alteration I couldn't get them to fit properly. I got the ruler out and started measuring things and found it to be 95 mm wide. It was narrower overall in comparison to the original, particularly along the inner carpet edge where the longer screws are intended to pull the plate down on the carpet.
The original is 100 mm wide. The extra 5mm is along the carpet edge where I was having trouble making things fit.
The original is cut square at the front end and is flared at the back end along the carpet edge and windlace join. The repro is cut with a 45˚ corner at both ends. Quite different. After spending a couple of hours gently coaxing the repro into position I gave up and polished up the original pieces and used them once again. I can find a better replacement later but for now I wanted to get moving on gluing down all the carpets in the front footwell area.
In '66 the kick plates changed from the early type. I wonder if these repros are a copy of a later change I don't know about. Hmmmm.  Not happy.
So I spent the rest of the afternoon with the spray on glue....
... some carpet tacks.
A rubber mallet and a heat gun helped to get the shape into the parts that wanted to be flat.
And now I've got happy feet!
Since since my last post I've mounted the NOS Clock, NOS Metric Speedo, Mechanical Fuel Gauge and the Gear stick. The gear stick will need adjustment but it was nice to be able to select gears for the first time.
I recall when I was stripping this down how quickly it went but now putting it all together is moving so much slower. I guess the reason is I'm being a lot more careful assembling this than I needed to be pulling things appart
Speaking of taking time.... I've cleaned out the preheater tube
This has to be one of the dirtiest and slowest jobs I've done so far. I must have spent 10 hours on this digging out the carbon deposited fully end to end. I used a plumbers spring on an electric drill to start off but it would bind at the bends. Next I tried a straightened coat hanger which would force in just a bit further. I managed to work that in at both ends as far as the second bend. What worked the best was an off cut of hand brake wire on the drill and rotating so the braids would remain tight. I was able to push that all the way through. I still have to clean it up but for now we have unblocked it and I have taken to the flanges with a flat bastard file to remove the pits and corrosion.
Nicholas.
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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Disc
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Joined: September 24, 2009
Posts: 558
Location: Europe
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| Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: |
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Nice attention to detail!
| sputnick60 wrote: |
I'm having serious doubts about the quality of some reproduction parts on offer. I bought these kick plates a long time ago to replace ones on this car ...
...I wondered why the screw holes along the carpet edge were missing but proceeded to add them. I used the old ones as a template and ...
...The original is cut square at the front end and is flared at the back end along the carpet edge and windlace join. The repro is cut with a 45˚ corner at both ends. Quite different. After spending a couple of hours gently coaxing the repro into position I gave up and polished up the original pieces and used them once again. I can find a better replacement later ... |
That's are very, very interesting observations here! I've seen many OG kick plates and they never had additional holes on the carpet side or square cut at the one side  . Went ahead and checked Owner manuals...
'66 (apparently Owner manual shows earlier style kick plates)
'67 (later style plates, square back end, but screw on carpet side is visible, click for larger pic)
'68 (45˚ corner cut at back side, front is not visible)
'69 (photo looks like '68 setup)
May be you got OG '67 kick plates?
We got '66 convertible in the moment and tomorrow will check for holes in the body near door opening, I'm sure OG '66 kick plates are long gone.
But if you want to have that style kick plates (45˚ corner cut at one side and square cut at the other side), maybe, maybe I can help you.
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The glory never gets old, just need new paint.
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Nick |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
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Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Disc wrote: |
| if you want to have that style kick plates (45˚ corner cut at one side and square cut at the other side), maybe, maybe I can help you. |
Maybe yes I'm interested, especially if they would be 100mm wide.
I checked to the AUG '64 manual and they used that same photo there. Often it's the case that photos appear from earlier model years so one can't totally rely on the manuals as a definitive reference.
Since much of this car was unmolested, I'm very sure these kick plates are the original set. My other Ghia had the early style set. The factory may have been experimenting with installing this new plate and possibly dropped the inner row of screws because it might have been easier or faster to do so. The inner screws were longer and had the same head as the centre screws. I kept the original screws and I'm reusing them.
Nicholas
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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sputnick60
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sputnick60
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:45 am Post subject: |
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More preparation work has been underway. I've taken the engine tin and the heater boxes to be ceramic coated. The Tin was done in satin black and the resulting finish looks stock. The heater boxes were done in silver and came out looking fantastic. These are the original heater boxes from 1966. Earlier in this thread you can see a photo of the engine before disassembly and the heater boxes look very grubby.
I have picked up the engine block that has been water blasted to a really clean finish. It looks like it just out of the casting despite being 46 years old.
I hope I can manage to keep the oil and grease off it once it is built and running.
Nicholas
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'66 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet...
'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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Last edited by sputnick60 on Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:31 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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John Moxon 
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djway3474
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Where do you get WATER BLASTING done? looks amazing |
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rickpereira
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Location: Sydney, AUstralia
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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looking exellent!. cant wait to see this thing upclose.
do you think you will make the nationals this year? |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 3916
Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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| djway3474 wrote: |
| Where do you get WATER BLASTING done? looks amazing |
There is a guy who works as a fireman in western Sydney. He does this work part time for those in the know and charges a modest amount for his effort. It's not a commercial thing because of the extreme level of care involved. It is a mix of water and glass which, if not carefully applied, risks leaving a very abrasive residue in the galleyways. Preparation is the main thing and some commercial operators take no care at all to prevent contamination. Every hole or passage is closed off or covered over with an appropriately sized plug, tape or cover so no flow can enter anywhere. The spray is not directed at all to the inside of the engine case. Later I will follow through with solvent and brushes to clean out the old gunk that's been growing in there for the last 46 years. Last thing I want is for stuff to be left in there that could have been cleaned out with just a little effort.
| rickpereira wrote: |
looking exellent!. cant wait to see this thing upclose.
do you think you will make the nationals this year? |
I was hoping to be there with the car but I've got too much on with work. I have to be in Geneva for a month in April and next week I'm busy in the US for a fortnight. There's talk of a work trip to Japan as well. I'll be lucky to just get there in person without the car. Despite that I plan to go, mainly so I can see your car Rick! 
There are quite a number of Ghias getting attention in Sydney I've noticed of late. Maybe the time is ripe get a group of enthusiasts out for a regular drive. Hmmm perhaps the time is when I'm done with all this pushing against entropy and start driving it!
Oh and to address a comment from my petrol head friend , Andrew Tanti... No Andrew, this is not a trailer queen. I'm going to it drive and enjoy life with it, just as any pig farmer should. Now isn't that right Mr Moxon!
Nicholas
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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Greezy Joe
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Joined: April 12, 2010
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:04 am Post subject: |
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Great work on this Ghia, I've been following this for a while. But you Aussies talk funny, what the heck is a Fortnight 
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Current:74 Ghia Coupe w/ 2276
71 Ghia Vert w/ 1835
07 GMC Truck
12 Jeep Wrangler
73 Harley FLH 93 cid
89 Harley 883 Sportster (1200)
Owned before: 58, 69 Ghia Coupes, 64 Canvas Sunroof, 68, 72, 73, & 74 Bugs, 63 Single Cab, 65 Bus, 66 & 70 Camper
" Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it'll muffle the sound". |
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John Moxon
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carl4x4
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lemke
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Disc wrote: |
| That's are very, very interesting observations here! I've seen many OG kick plates and they never had additional holes on the carpet side or square cut at the one side . Went ahead and checked Owner manuals... |
Hey Disc, that's nothing to feel embarrassed about. There are inaccuracies or, redundancies in the pictures in the owners manuals just as Sputnik60 wrote:
| sputnick60 wrote: |
-
I checked to the AUG '64 manual and they used that same photo there. Often it's the case that photos appear from earlier model years so one can't totally rely on the manuals as a definitive reference. -
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Here is some info about this written by the great late Jim Patterson, from his old “Ghia Gab” newsletters – before House of Ghia went on the web. Thank you Mike for doing such a great job at archiving Jim's stylish and great writings. I hope you don't mind that I “hot-linked” this from your site, if it takes up too much bandwidth, I will remove the link or copy/paste it. But it makes for fun reading. I sure miss Jim.
http://www.house-of-ghia.com/index.php/ghia-q-a/15...-same-year |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 3916
Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:55 am Post subject: |
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I've been busy with work lately and not been able to spend time on the car. Also the days a short during winter and it is cold in the workshop. We've had some warmer weather and so I've beem doing some preparation on things that bolt onto the engine. This time we look at Fuel pumps.
I pulled apart all the ones I had. Laid out on the left is a Brazilian Pump
in the centre a Pierburg made in Germany and on the right a Bendix made in Australia. The Bendix and Pierburg are identical and described in detail in the Dark blue Bentley manual. The Brazilian pump is somewhat different and described in the light blue Bentley. ( I've got a copy of both Bentley books)
I made a pre-load jig from a plate of steel with some grub screws and nuts. 14mm is the hight for the preload according to the Blue Bentley.
The mating surfaces for the top and bottom halves were sanded smooth and flat with sandpaper laid out on the workbench
The top half of the Pump requires a plastic filter. I haven't found replacements so I cleaned the original filter. I purchased a NOS pump refurbishment kit that has a new gasket for the top cover.
The NOS ref rub kit also has a very nice rubber diaphragm shown here sitting in the pre-load jig. The preload jig makes the rubber pull in nicely so the holes line up properly. This is an important step to get this right.
So here is the completed Aussie Bendix
And here is the completed German Pierburg
If it isn't obvious, I had Dave-the-fireman use his water blaster to clean up the finish on the pump parts so they look quite clean. He used a very low setting and you can see there is still some grime in crevices on the Bendix pump. Despite the backed-off setting a polished finish was easily achieved.
I'll post up a photo of the Brazilian pump once I get back to Sydney
Nicholas
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'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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c21darrel
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| Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:28 am Post subject: |
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| If it isn't obvious, I had Dave-the-fireman use his water blaster to clean up the finish on the pump parts |
Oh, its obvious, Looks great! I had better luck setting preload to 12mm, 14 was too much on my rebuild. Im sure you will but, double check the pressure as it may still need adjustment.
Less work, more pics of your progress! |
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sputnick60
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14 days...or to you, two weeks or three hundred and thirty six hours or...well you get the picture. 
