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Bus Center Pin Replacement (Long, MANY pics)
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:12 am    Post subject: Bus Center Pin Replacement (Long, MANY pics) Reply with quote

Here is how I do a bus center pin, as well as some tips and hints, and of course a bunch of pics.
This was done on a 1959 beam, which has some small, yet noticeable differences from earlier beams (like in a Wolfsburg built bus), as well as from a later beam. The differences are noted in the text here, and are very clearly described and shown schematically in the installation text in the 1950-1962 Bentley Service Manual, section V-10, pages 3, 4, and 5. While the basic procedure is the same for all years 3/55-67, there may be small variations from your beam due to the year of this particular beam. Please consult the factory workshop manual before doing this work. If you are not equipped to do it, get the proper tools or have someone who knows what they are doing fix it for you.
Hope this pictorial procedure helps.

Here's how it looks before doing anything, with dirt and years of caked grease.
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Bend up the tab that is on the pinch bolt.
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I like to install the clamp and upper spacer to compress the arm on the pin. This allows the bolt to be removed easily, and the threads of the bolt will not get chewed up by dragging them through the pin and arm area which is in an uncompressed state.
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Remove the bolt, bolt head size is 19mm. I find that with the arm compressed, once the bolt is broken loose, it often unthreads by hand.
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I like to remove the drag link from the pivot arm using my Hazet 779. The end will not come out of the pivot arm yet, but it will be removed when the arm gets pulled back through the center part of the beam. While this may not be totally necessary, I like to withdraw the arm to get it out of the way for cleaning both the beam and the arm. Removal of the tie rod ends from the arm is not necessary unless you plan on changing the tie rods too.
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In most cases, the pin should be easy to push through the pivot arm. Sometimes the pin may be rusty or the clamping part of the pivot arm may be tight. A small wedge can be driven in the gap of the pivot arm to help expand it slightly, to allow the pin to slide through it more easily. I have almost never seen a pin that was seized to the bushings or that required the factory tool to remove the pin from the bushings.
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Pin removed. Notice the areas where there is wear caused my moisture and/or lack of lubrication.
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With the pin removed, the arm can be tilted to get the drag link end out of the pivot arm.
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Remove whatever pieces may be on the top of the center pin bracket. This will usually be a spring washer, metal cap, and depending on year, a plastic washer. This 59 beam only has a cap and a spring washer, and was missing the upper sealing washer (more on that later).
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A side view shows the upper bushing protruding from the top of the beam.
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Remove the steering damper from the pivot arm, and pull the pivot arm through the beam to get it out of the way.
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Remove the grease fittings. This must be done before driving the bushings out or you can damage the fittings.
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I use VW tool 131a to drive the bushings upwards and outwards.
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The lower bushing will eventually hit the upper bushing, driving it out.
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Upper bushing out.
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Lower bushing out.
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After a little cleaning, it is easy to see the wear to the inside of the lower bushing. This appears to be the original bushing because of the inner grease groove and grease fitting hole.
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Here are all of the old components removed from the beam. With all these parts removed, it is a good time to clean the beam and remove the caked grease and dirt, especially on the very top of the beam where the pivot arm secures. Any old dirt that gets in the new bushings will only make them wear out faster. Clean the entire area well.
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This is a close up of the lower thrust washer. This gets forced in to the bottom part of the beam by the tension of the upper spring, as well as by the back and forth motion of the pin. This washer takes the abuse rather than the pin wearing directly into the beam.
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Moisture settles to the bottom, and without regular greasing, the pin will rust and pit, also causing wear to the bushing. I am often surprised to see water droplets come out of center pins while greasing them, even in non-moist environments. Grease them regularly.
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Here are all the components of the new kit, VW part number 211 498 171. Not all of the parts are correct for this year beam, and not every part will be used in this installation, most notably the large metal cap and the large plastic o-ring.
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This shows the comparison of the original bolt (top) versus the replacement bolt found in the kit (bottom). Notice the shorter non-threaded section of the replacement bolt. I feel it is very important to re-use the original bolt if at all possible. Unfortunately, this original bolt is too damaged to re-use. The non threaded part is the part that passes through the cut-out section of the pin and secures it to the pivot arm. Since the new bolt is mostly threaded in that area, if the bolt is not properly tightened, the threads of the bolt could cut in to the pin, damaging the cut out section of the pin, and cause the pivot arm to move on the pin. I have seen that happen a few times, and it requires a new pin and bolt to be installed.
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Here is the resulting damage to the pin caused by a bad bolt or improper torquing of the bolt. The arm will move on the pin rather than the whole assembly turning as one unit. Notice the damage to the bolt in the previous pic, and then look at how the edges of the slot in the pin are rounded and worn. Also notice the streaking on the upper part of the pin caused by the arm moving on the pin.
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Here is the old, worn pin compared to a new pin. Compare the slots where the pinch bolt passes through.
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Time to drive the new bushings in, again with driver VW 131a. Here is the upper bushing being driven in from the bottom. Notice how the grease groove is opening towards the bottom, and also notice how the upper part of the grease groove "U" is facing the front of the beam. On the upper bushing, that "U" should face the front of the beam.
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Drive the upper bushing upwards until the top of the bushing sticks out of the beam anywhere from 1.4mm to 1.7mm. I find it easiest to drive the bushing in until I can just feel it stick out, measure it, and then adjust accordingly. A couple taps with the hammer and drift move quite a bit (relatively), so care must be taken not to drive the bushing out too far. If you do drive it out too far, you can usually drive it all the way out and re-install it. I check this with a depth micrometer, but it can also be checked with a straight edge across the bushing and some feeler gauges.
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This one stuck out just under 1.7mm
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Driving in the lower bushing. Notice how the grease groove opening is towards the top and you can only see the "U" part of the groove. Also note how the "U" part is facing the rear of the beam.
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Drive the lower bushing in flush, or minimally recessed in to the beam.
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Looking in to the pin area, you can see that now the upper grease fitting hole is completely blocked by the bushing, while the lower bushing is still below the level of the lower grease fitting hole (you can see the top of the bushing through the lower hole). That is ok on this particular beam, because with the style of bushing with the "U" channel grease grooves, both bushings will be lubricated from the lower grease fitting.
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Time to ream the bushings. I use a straight flute 24mm fixed reamer, as specified by the service manual.
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Reaming the bushings in one smooth, steady, gentle pass. Do not jam the reamer up there and then start turning. The reamer is tapered slightly to allow proper guidance into the bushing. A light gentle upwards force makes for a nice clean pass. Remember to turn the reamer clockwise. NEVER turn the reamer backwards.
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There is plenty of room to use this type of reamer to ream both bushings in one pass. The shift rod does not interfere with full reaming of the upper bushing.
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ALWAYS wear gloves and some kind of eye protection when reaming, especially if you are laying under the bus. Do not lay directly under the reamer. These shavings are very fine and very sharp and can hurt quite a bit or embed themselves if they get on your skin or if they were to get in your eyes. Quite a few shavings come out of the bushings. I always clean these up before proceeding any further.
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Clean the shavings from the internal part of the bore, again being careful not to get them on your skin or in your eyes. A toothbrush works well, as does low pressure compressed air.
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Time for re-assembly. I put a light coating of grease on the face of the pin as well as on the lower thrust washer.
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I put a light coating of grease on the pin and also on the bushings before installing the pin. Do not put too much grease on the pin, because most of it will come off when pushing the pin through the bushings.
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With a light coating of grease on both the pin and the bushings, when the pin is installed, it should not fall out easily or at all. The pin should turn freely, with no binding, and no axial freeplay.
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Install the upper spring washer. It can be lubricated with grease.
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This shows the difference between the original upper cap (left) and the replacement cap (right). The replacement is made to be used in conjunction with the large plastic o-ring, and has a larger diameter. Since the 59 beam does not use the o-ring, the original cap will be re-used. The cap can not always be re-used though, since it may be too gouged from the spring washer on the inside. This one was acceptable.
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This shows the difference in the way the original cap and the replacement cap would fit on this beam.
Original:
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Replacement:
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Move the pivot arm back through the beam in preparation of putting it on the pin. Don't forget to tilt it slightly to get the drag link end into its bore. Lowering the pin a bit will help in this operation.
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To determine if you will use the small white sealing washer on the pin, you need to look at the bottom of the pivot arm. Early pivot arms do not have a groove for the sealing washer and therefore the sealing washer is not used. Look carefully at your arm, as sometimes the old sealing washer will remain in the pivot arm, giving the appearance that there is no groove. If the groove is there, use the sealing washer. Clean this area well before re-installing the arm.
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As an example, here is a pic of a non-grooved pivot arm, compared to one with the groove.
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I find that warming the sealing washer in some hot water helps to loosen it up. Also, when installing, a light coating of grease helps. The sealing washer goes on top of the metal cap.
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With the sealing washer on (if applicable), it is time to push the pin in to the pivot arm. Do not worry about the alignment of the cut out in the pin and the arm right now. The misalignment of these holes can be seen through the hole in the pivot arm.
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Hold on to the pivot arm with one hand, and then turn the pivot pin with the other to align the cut out in the pin with the hole in the pivot arm. This can be seen through the hole in the pivot arm. Since the spring washer does not allow the arm to be fully compressed at this time, the cut out and the hole will not be aligned. Refer back to the beginning where I mentioned about damaging the threads of the bolt when trying to remove it in this condition.
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With the clamp and a spacer installed, it is easy to compress the pivot arm on to the pin, properly aligning the cut out in the pin with the hole in the pivot arm, allowing easy threading of the bolt. If this is not compressed properly, you risk damaging the threads of the bolt and possibly the arm as well. The spacer needs to have an inside diameter larger than the diameter of the pin to allow the pin to move upwards through the spacer. If this is not done, you will not be compressing anything other than the pin against itself and there will be no compression of the pivot arm on to the pin.
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Install the bolt and don't forget to put the lock tab on the bolt (in the proper orientation) before installing the bolt. Put a light coating of grease on the inner face of the bolt head and on the lock tab. This will help the tab to not move around when torquing to the proper spec. Torquing to the proper spec is very important.
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Torque spec. for this bolt is 47 to 54 ft. lbs.

Bend the lock tab over the bolt after the bolt is torqued. The large flange of the lock tab bends over the pivot arm (on the side), the smaller flange bends over the bolt head (on the top).
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Re-install the castellated nut and pin (if applicable) to the drag link end. Some replacement drag links use a nylock nut here. Don't forget to re-attach steering damper to the pivot arm. Re-install the grease fittings and it is ready for a thorough greasing. Grease liberally, and turn the wheels from side to side during the greasing to allow grease to cover as much of the pin and bushings as possible. Re-grease many times in the first few hundred miles. The last thing you want to do is start wearing the bushings due to poor lubrication, especially after doing all this work. As far as the grease fittings go, if there is any question as to their condition, replace them! They are not expensive, and they help keep grease in and dirt and water out. If you are going to re-use the old ones, clean them, and then put them on to your grease gun before installing them. Force clean, fresh grease through them to flush out any traces of old grease, then install them in the beam.
If you need to replace the fittings on an early beam, they are a 10x1 thread.
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Grease liberally and repeatedly. Move the wheels back and forth while greasing. Make sure grease is coming out of both ends of the pin area.
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When it is greased sufficiently, clean off excess grease. Grease attracts dirt and keeping dirt out of this assembly is important.
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Tools I use.
Besides the regular hand tools like a few sizes of metric wrenches and sockets, used to remove the standard hardware, I use a Hazet 779 tie rod end separator (shown in a picture above), a VW131a drift, a 24mm straight flute fixed reamer along with a driver for it, a modified 8" C clamp, and a spacer for compressing the pivot arm on to the pin.
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The modified C clamp is from Harbor Freight (what, you think I am going to modify a nice tool???). I ground down the upper part of it to contour the shape of the shift rod, so the clamp will fit in to that tight space between the pivot arm and the shift rod when compressing the pivot arm.
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UPDATE 2/6/08

I had the opportunity to do a center pin on a later (1967) beam, so here are some pics and descriptions on how it differs from the 1959 beam pictured above.
The basic procedure is the same, except where noted in the text below.

The bus came in with a noticeable gap in the pin area.
My initial thoughts were that there was no compression spring, or that the bushings had been installed improperly.
Turns out there was no compression spring.
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It is not necessary to remove the drag link from the pivot arm since the later beam does not have the 2 vertical reinforcements on the beam.
Simply remove the old pin and move the pivot arm out of the way. There is plenty of clearance to work with everything still attached.
Also note the old cap covered with dirt and grease.
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With the pivot arm pushed out of the way, it is a very good time to clean up the threads if necessary.
The thread pitch is 12x1.5
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Here is what was removed from underneath the pivot arm. Just the cap and old remnants of the large seal. No spring washer to be found.
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Later beams have a seating surface/flange for the large sealing washer (the one that was not used on the earlier beam).
The large sealing washer fits around the flange seen directly below the upper bushing.
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This shows the upper flange area where the large white sealing washer fits over.
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A new prototype drift to install the bushings.
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The large sealing washer is very stiff and should be heated in boiling water or massaged in a circular motion to loosen it up.
Greasing the flange will also help while installing the sealing washer.
The sealing washer is a tight fit and can be a real pain to install.
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Large sealing washer installed (after a 5 minute battle). The spring washer gets installed next.
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I put a light coating of grease on the inside of the cap to help lubricate it and to help hold it in place when everything is being put together.
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After the cap is put on, the o-ring gets put on. Ready to install the pivot arm.
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Some maneuvering is necessary to get the pivot arm to line up, but it does eventually line up and the pin gets pushed up in to it.
Clamping it together, aligning the cut out in the pin with the hole, and installing the bolt is the next step.
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All put back together. Bolt is torqued, lock tab is bent over, all greased up.
A new grease fitting was installed.
The later beams use a 6x1 straight fitting.
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Last edited by hazetguy on Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:26 pm; edited 9 times in total
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swervyjoe
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

where did you get the reamer and the Hazet 779? great tutorial! thanks
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localboy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

swervyjoe wrote:
where did you get the reamer and the Hazet 779? great tutorial! thanks


I think Busboys will rent them out. http://www.bus-boys.com/

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Last edited by localboy on Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

best ever swing lever pin install tutorial. This issue was covered some time ago, but definitively this thread must be in the faqs thread!!!
nice and clean job man!
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dstefun
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As usual, Jon, great job, thanks! I love your tutorials, simple explanations and great pix!
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bushing installer VW131a: maybe Joey can make some of these? or are they already in the works Cool


hazet 779: can be purchased from many sources. it is still readily availble and currently manufactured. Zelenda, SamstagSales, Baum might be places to ask for current pricing. (this has been asked about and talked about in the past, do a search)

reamer: available through many sources, with many levels of quality available. the one in the pics i got on ebay, the other one i have i bought new. both were made in germany. new ones similar to the type seen below area about $120.

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yes, you can rent them from bus boys, here is what their site says. for the price of rental, shipping, and deposit, you could just buy your own.

"Center Pin Installation Tools

Original Volkswagen procedures for replacing your center pin and the bushings required the front beam to be removed from the vehicle. Several years ago, we developed a Center Pin Bushing Removal/Installation Tool (patent pending) that allows you to do the same job without front beam removal. We normally rent these tools to customers that wish to do the job themselves. In addition, we rent the reamer tool required for 1950 to 1967 Type 2 Center Pin Bushings.

210-41571TRL Center Pin Install Tool - Rental 1950 to 1979 $55.00 PLUS $75.00 Deposit

210-41572TR Center Pin Reamer Tool - Rental 1950 to 1967 $35.00 PLUS $125.00 Deposit

These tools are carefully packaged to prevent damage, especially the reamer. We inspect these tools for damage before rental and those that are in questionable condition are pulled from the shelf to be repaired or scrapped. It is very important to take special care in the handling of these tools, especially the reamer, as if the reamer is dropped to the floor/ground, it can be damaged very easily. Deposit refunds are subject to the inspection of the condition of the tools returned. In addition, it is required that the tools be returned in their original packing to qualify for the deposit refund. Tools returned that are damaged beyond repair or that have been abnormally abused will be returned to the customer and the deposit(s) forfeited. Tools must be returned within 60 days of the rental invoice date or the deposit(s) will be forfeited."
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Last edited by hazetguy on Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rave!
I have printed this off and it will be another addendum in my Bentley.
One question I have - is the reason that the bushings do not come pre-reamed because they distort slightly when installed and must be "custom" reamed for each beam?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riff Raff wrote:

One question I have - is the reason that the bushings do not come pre-reamed because they distort slightly when installed and must be "custom" reamed for each beam?


i would guess they probably compress slightly when installed. also, when driving them in, sometimes they get a burr/lip on them which needs to be cleaned up. maybe too, it helps to ream them inline so that the the bore is centered and aligned for proper pin fit. that would be my thought.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work. On the upper bushing, is there room to drill a grease hole in the bushing after the bushing is installed? It would be nice to be able to use the upper zerk fitting for lubrication although you said grease will come up from the bottom zerk.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the correct torque speck on the pinch bolt?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

localboy wrote:
swervyjoe wrote:
where did you get the reamer and the Hazet 779? great tutorial! thanks


I think Busboys will rent them out. http://www.bus-boys.com/

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


They usually have a waiting list as I think they only have a few reamers or maybe even just one.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
Riff Raff wrote:

One question I have - is the reason that the bushings do not come pre-reamed because they distort slightly when installed and must be "custom" reamed for each beam?


i would guess they probably compress slightly when installed. also, when driving them in, sometimes they get a burr/lip on them which needs to be cleaned up. maybe too, it helps to ream them inline so that the the bore is centered and aligned for proper pin fit. that would be my thought.


Final reaming provides perfect alignment between the two bushings, I think the correct term would be line reaming.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think ALL Hazetguys tutorials shop be in one sticky. Jon has given tons of info on how to do things.

On a side note. If using Brazilian center pins the bushings do not need to be reamed (at least in the kits I've seen) also bay window pin bushing do not need to be reamed.
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Z
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo! I'll be doing this in the next couple of weeks - I've read every tutorial that I could find, and felt good about doing it, but this one is definately the best.

After reading this, I may now do it with my eyes closed....
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
Riff Raff wrote:

One question I have - is the reason that the bushings do not come pre-reamed because they distort slightly when installed and must be "custom" reamed for each beam?


i would guess they probably compress slightly when installed. also, when driving them in, sometimes they get a burr/lip on them which needs to be cleaned up. maybe too, it helps to ream them inline so that the the bore is centered and aligned for proper pin fit. that would be my thought.


After driving in the bushings (in my case) they where compressed alot. Before install pin and bushing had some play. Once installed and bushings not reamed pin won't go in... need to ream.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if anyone is interested:

24mm Hand Reamer $76.23
http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/24mm-4499.cfm

edit: nevermind, seems they don't offer it anymore.


Last edited by swervyjoe on Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

swervyjoe wrote:
if anyone is interested:

24mm Hand Reamer $76.23
http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/24mm-4499.cfm


That's a good deal.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Hazetguy!!! I'm about to do this myself and have been gathering the necessary tools etc. It is a low priority project for me, right now due to my bus needing a muffler and other regular maintenance. Hermanscentral didn't have the 24mm reamers in stock when I tried a few weeks ago. I believe metricMCC.com is a better source for metric stuff. They mostly do business in quantity with business or Corp's but will sell to individuals and you'll need to register with them. It may be somewhere in the thread alread but what is the amount of torque on the bolt for the swing arm??? t
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
It may be somewhere in the thread alread but what is the amount of torque on the bolt for the swing arm??? t


47 to 54 ft. lbs.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
bushing installer VW131a: maybe Joey can make some of these? or are they already in the works Cool

hazet 779: can be purchased from many sources. it is still readily availble and currently manufactured. Zelenda, SamstagSales, Baum might be places to ask for current pricing. (this has been asked about and talked about in the past, do a search)

reamer: available through many sources, with many levels of quality available. the one in the pics i got on ebay, the other one i have i bought new. both were made in germany. new ones similar to the type seen below area about $120.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



yes, you can rent them from bus boys, here is what their site says. for the price of rental, shipping, and deposit, you could just buy your own.

"Center Pin Installation Tools

Original Volkswagen procedures for replacing your center pin and the bushings required the front beam to be removed from the vehicle. Several years ago, we developed a Center Pin Bushing Removal/Installation Tool (patent pending) that allows you to do the same job without front beam removal. We normally rent these tools to customers that wish to do the job themselves. In addition, we rent the reamer tool required for 1950 to 1967 Type 2 Center Pin Bushings.

210-41571TRL Center Pin Install Tool - Rental 1950 to 1979 $55.00 PLUS $75.00 Deposit

210-41572TR Center Pin Reamer Tool - Rental 1950 to 1967 $35.00 PLUS $125.00 Deposit

These tools are carefully packaged to prevent damage, especially the reamer. We inspect these tools for damage before rental and those that are in questionable condition are pulled from the shelf to be repaired or scrapped. It is very important to take special care in the handling of these tools, especially the reamer, as if the reamer is dropped to the floor/ground, it can be damaged very easily. Deposit refunds are subject to the inspection of the condition of the tools returned. In addition, it is required that the tools be returned in their original packing to qualify for the deposit refund. Tools returned that are damaged beyond repair or that have been abnormally abused will be returned to the customer and the deposit(s) forfeited. Tools must be returned within 60 days of the rental invoice date or the deposit(s) will be forfeited."


Another damn nice tutorial. Jon you are a credit to the VW community.

Hey Jon, another one of my need to do projects. Thanks for allowing me to get the dimensions. We order alot from MSC industrial products. The other link for the reamer didn't work for me. This one doesn't have the square end but not a bad price and it is american made which does make a difference alot of times in tool quality.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1700360&PMT4NO=36219754

Joey
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