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scott_79bay
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man.
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bug-nuts
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scott_79bay wrote:
So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man.


McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ sells it by the roll in many different thicknesses, They show it both with and without peel and stick backing.
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dansvans
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frozenbutt wrote:
Check out this guy's website on sound deadener:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/


wondering how many actually read this whole test review?

looks like Damplifier outperforms Dynamat and its way cheaper to boot! especially desirable for front door cavities as you can reposition it easily, then as time goes by it adheres stronger and stronger.

RAMM audio's RAMMmat is a slightly better value in the same non-asphalt category, but lighter per square foot. still, expensive stuff. $218 (shipped) for 125 square feet.

seems to me that Peel & Seal is fine for floor and over the engine, but on walls and ceiling Damplifier or RAMMmat is apparently necessary for long term adhesion.

as for insulation, reflectix is great stuff and i thought i read that its R-value is 11 with a 3/4" airspace? i would not use foam in a can. even though its closed cell, it can still trap water in a corner.
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scott_79bay
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry sure it's been discussed, but about how many sqft for a single layer?
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dansvans
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you would need 125 square feet to do roof, walls, and nose. roof is 65 sq. ft. alone, walls are 55 sq. ft. (including front doors), 5 sq. ft. for the nose center. adds 48 pounds of butyl and foil to the bus if you buy RAMM mat

80 sq.ft. of peel and seal will cover the floor and wheel wells, adding another 25 pounds
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scott_79bay
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about EPDM rubber roofing. It's extremely cheap it seems some already use it for vibration control, may not be as good as a MLV for sound transmission, but still looking for a cheap substitute for that as well.

Here is a link to some costs:
http://www.flatroofsolutions.com/90mil-Black-EPDM-price.php

Here is an article by Mitsubishi and there application of EPDM in the doors and charts showing the effectiveness:
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate/about_us/technology/review/e/pdf/2007/19e_24.pdf

Heres some stuff in a can:
http://www.proguardcoatings.com/rubber-liquid-coating-intro.htm
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good information and look forward to reading through it. My main concern would be with any toxic fumes (detectable by the nose or not) that my be hazardous in a closed environment such as a vehicle.

Even though I'm sure they have probably tested the material, I am thoroughly convinced that manufacturers do not and cannot test products for long term effects.
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Justin
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

theizzardking wrote:
just the inside of the bus works like a dream

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...p;start=60


With the foil-backed bubble stuff, did you just put it in behind the panels? I'm a little nervous about gluing mine to the outer sheet metal. Will it insulate just as well if it's right behind the interior panels instead?

SIDENOTE:
Hello! I'm Justin, the guy with the wife and kid that bought the bed from you last weekend. (Also the jerk that woke you and your entire house up... Wink) I'm still working on the bed. I realized that since it's a partial-width I have to modify one of the hinges to fit over the wheel well in order to make it a full-width. I have lots of welding gear at work and if I can't do it, I work with a guy who's an excellent welder. It should work out alright.

Anyway, hey! Thanks again for the bed, the hub caps and the cot hinges.
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rogers_68 wrote:
theizzardking wrote:
just the inside of the bus works like a dream

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...p;start=60


With the foil-backed bubble stuff, did you just put it in behind the panels? I'm a little nervous about gluing mine to the outer sheet metal. Will it insulate just as well if it's right behind the interior panels instead?

SIDENOTE:
Hello! I'm Justin, the guy with the wife and kid that bought the bed from you last weekend. (Also the jerk that woke you and your entire house up... Wink) I'm still working on the bed. I realized that since it's a partial-width I have to modify one of the hinges to fit over the wheel well in order to make it a full-width. I have lots of welding gear at work and if I can't do it, I work with a guy who's an excellent welder. It should work out alright.

Anyway, hey! Thanks again for the bed, the hub caps and the cot hinges.


Hey no worries! when i did mine i used some 3m adhesive spray and lightly sprayed that to the inner sheet metal surface and also did the same to the interior panel creating an air pocket between the 2 sheets of reflectix the manufacture states with this pocket the" r" value of the reflectix is increased, as the r value of this stuff is completely dependent on where you place it and how you place it , i was thinking about rust issues when i was placing this against the bare steel and i can see no draw back as long as you don't press it firmly against the body this allows small spaces for the water to travel down the back side of the sheet, also in consideration of what the stock insulation was in these thing that was originally pressed against the sheet metal anyways . also when i used the spray foam to seal up any other areas i cut a pathway to the lower floor to allow water to flow using a coat hanger.

that's just what i did warmth for me is a major issue as where i choose to sleep usually has snow in the parking lot till august.
on my build thread i believe i go over what i did it's called the wanderer search it if you care. there is a discussion on this same subject on there as well thats after i found out about the issue of trapping water with the closed cell foam.
i'm here if you need me man not to far away so i can pop by and give you a hand or whatever you need. take care and get some photo's up of how it's going!!!
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Justin
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't decided yet how to insulate my bus. I just stumbled on this article, though, and it makes it seem like spun fiberglass doesn't hold moisture. (About a third of the way down.)

Any thoughts on this?

-Justin
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second skin rep
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

scott_79bay wrote:
So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man.



Butyl rubber sheeting is not the same as a constraint layer viscoelastic damper.
Not even close.
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naynay
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I'm late to the party, but here is my 2 cents. I was going to use the asphalt peel and stick roofing stuff, but I happened across a helpful home depot employee who Also happens to love old cars, and fixes them up on a budget. He told me that the asphalt stuff is messy and gooey- makes sense- and steered me towards "Protecto Wrap butyl hybrid window and door sealing tape". I haven't installed it yet, but I like that it has NO odor- and it was inexpensive to boot- 17 bucks for a 9"x 33' roll- and it also comes in a 6" roll for about 11-12 bucks.

I have been working on rust eradication, followed by appying duplicolors' version of rattle can truck bed liner- i figured good rust prevention and sound deadening combo. next is the Protecto wrap- but then I get stuck- I want carpet, but don't know what to put between the Protecto and the carpet. maybe I should skip carpet, and go Linoleum or something so it'll stay cleaner. I dunno. anyway, helpful home depot guy said jute carpet pad between protecto and carpet. I think it is too spendy for me. i looked at the underlayment for under wod floors- seems really nice- and spendy-ish. perhaps I need to wait until my definition of spendy shifts a little. tight budget at the moment- but Lots of time on my hands, so I would like to get some work done!
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jah_B
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

masonite or osb would be ok on your floor over the insulator. b4 the carpet.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks- will do. I think I am going to go with linoleum look vinyl squares from lowes- made by armstrong, and commercial grade- and they have that old school swirly look to them. plus they come in rad colors like orange and purple! plus at 30 bucks for a box of too many sq feet, it fits my budget. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

panic_fan wrote:
Finished my weekend Project. Peel n Stick'd the interior firewall and cargo area. MUCH quieter now, I can still hear the hummm of that classic VW engine, but can now hear my radio and passengers as well.
-Smell went away after about 2 days with the doors opened in the garage.
-Cleaned up & Used small heater to make sure metal was nice and warm to stick too.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So, we just had a thread about sound deadening pop up where this one was referenced. I asked about the peel n stick roof stuff and was told it was a bad idea. However, this guy seemed to have it work fine for him as did one other poster in this thread.

Do we have any long term data on this method? Smells, issues, etc?
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just proves that their are more than one opinion about anything.

Personally, I installed in a previous vehicle. It did smell for about 3 days. After that it was fine. It did deaden the sound considerable. I would be careful where placed as I used it on inside of doors and it added quite a bit of weight to the door, and I ended up replacing the hinges a year or so later.

My biggest concern hindsight, and why I won't be using it in my Bus, would be the long term effects. Just because I'm not smelling it doesn't mean that I may not be breathing in anything toxic.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like said on the other thread......... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=115058&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Fatmat for sound deadening is pretty good at a fraction of the cost..... then i followed it with a thermal insulation i found on Ebay...... it's high density foam bonded inside a silver polymer for heat reflection. Smile

No odors and equal to DynoMatt ... Cool

Here is the thermal insulation i used......... i love this stuff........ Very Happy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-Heat-Sou...ccessories
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

barefootwestie wrote:


My biggest concern hindsight, and why I won't be using it in my Bus, would be the long term effects. Just because I'm not smelling it doesn't mean that I may not be breathing in anything toxic.


I agree...If you have a bus that you use for camping and you sleep in it, It might not be the best idea. Mine is just the transporter so we dont sleep in it, plus its not my daily.
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peace.love.vanagon
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

soo its been a while since a new update and reflextics insulation after reading this sounds like the best idea for keeping heat. thats my main concern is to just trap and keep heat. so has there been anything new that people are trying and getting good results?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I'd add this to the post. The cavities are bothersome to me, hate to leave them hollow and understand the fear of water and moisture. Saw this stuff http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/ps.htm
at ACE Hardware. About $8.50 a can. Might give it a try. Anyone use it or any thoughts?
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