Plugging oil galleys article...

[Dangermouse]

[BugMan114]

so a quick question for yall. I get that the restrictor is there for two purposes.

1- To keep oil from slinging past the crank pulley

2- to have more oil go to the other bearings that need it more


and i understand in an airplane, you want to remove it, as all the force from the prop is on the small #4 bearing, so you'd want more oil there.

so my question is, has anyone ever had oil leak past a sand seal from removing the restrctor?
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Aircooled Airheads

Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!

[lnrbry]

[modok]

the stepped plug arrangement is harder to plug up in an engine with no oil filter.

[schadenfreude]

data: (and my 2 cents)
my 2 sets of new old stock, bearings , both Metal leve
that shell oil hole is .090" or 2.3mm
my guess is that some are huge, given so many made.
the engineer just knew some shell maker or racer would, bore those shells larger.. seem to me he was smart.

but is so easy to clog-up, that is why i'm reading this, (looking and worrying)
i remember this post last summer and i wanted to clean that area...
boy is that tight!
a fabulous post here, what great detail. Thanks!

I will now state my opinion on this device.
(see if you find fault? in my alleged facts)
1: no engineer puts a device in the block for the prime purpose of blocking grit. that over the top. A true WOW factor in any eng. school.
I say , don't fly air craft like that...
My joke is , that restrictor replaces the missing oil filter (sick huh?)

2: the bearing clearance is in fact the true limit. (sure is day one)
3: the front of the engine has no real seal. ( a lame slinger)
4: the front of the crank loves to wear out first. (use ball mics and check)
5: looking at many cranks at my local yard, is see most have worn
grooves in the #4 journal , many , in fact all i saw with high mileage.
That slinger lets IN lots of crap ,sure does. just look at old cranks.
Think how crank case pressure go Plus and minus ! and this is clearer.
This fact is why sand seals are sold. it is not hype. I'ts a fail point.

6: keep in mind , this car is sold to all countries including ones with lots of sand. or other nasty driving conditions (gravel roads, is one)

7: so , the engineer can not control the engineering of the shells (aftermarket does as it pleases) so he chose to do so, in the block.
8: he never dreamed of 50 year later rebuilds, (im sure)
nor did he dream of so many bearing makers, but he was ready,no?

solutions:?
blocks apart, after all, why would you ever pull plugs with it NOT.?
so, put in the bearings shell that is .090" oil holed. Metal Leve !
end.

if you messed up, and built a motor that you expect to run for 100k
you might want to correct this. (big hole bearings and no restrictor)
if racing, ahh who cares. blown engines sell tickets, no?

if you work lots of motors you will find hidden restrictors all over them.
many motors DOHC (or single) have a restricters in the heads.
many SBC have them in the main block and they unscrew.
this is not new science or eng. design.
Prime goal, keep pressure at all costs.

What it really does:
the restrictions limit worst case flow, (saying that you have no problems with it missing is irrelevant, you are not running worst case) no?

( read how well Madman Muntz designed TVs and the folly of that)
he remove parts , till it failed then put back the last part, (odd guy ,him)
(he was the anti thesis to engineering, good to study in school )

what is important is why they are present. (b hoover knows as does others, how posted)
it makes sure that under ALL conditions the mains NEVER STARVE for FULL PRESSURE 24/7 running...

including, the limiting of CASCADE failures.
like the Aircraft poster said, he speaks in the generic and nobody listens.
that is because they don't understand how bad CASCADE can be.

it can be the difference from , spinning one bearing or
having it whole motor explode in your face and you crash.
in the air or the ground (ever had rear wheels lock up at 80mph? in the rain?)
in Air craft they care about that, on VeeDUbs, not so....??

and Thank you for that great photo of the 90 fitting ground down
im doing that , now.

my block is now done, just cleaning it the last time.(3rd)

PS: i have one suspension, that is that, that gallery plug fails (stuffs)
so get it out of there forever ! and use the correct shells. .090" holed
I am,

btw, if you run full flow filter , none of this is important, zero grit. no clogs.
and not saying #4 bearing spin will cascade motor, unless the metal shavings hits
1,2,3 shells. and packs them.... but the furthest rod will fail first, if my money is good on table.

[easy e]

If anybody installed a drilled hole in plug restrictor replacement and isn't relying (or know) bearing hole size... consider chamfering (countersink drilling with a couple bigger size drills) the pressure side of the plug.

If it's sharp edged... less oil may be going through the hole. Example "A".

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[haz77]

Hi all,

Been linked to this thread by DM who posted on here earlier as hes advising / helping me with my type3 rebuild.

Now Ive also followed the huelsmann way, and now find my self in the tricky what to do with #4 plug situation also

Man theres been a lot of input & theory bashing on this here but I think I get the picture & can see most sides of the arguments, however my thoughts / concerns are:-

I like the look of the stepped restrictor either with a bolt through a plug or by getting a machine shop to make one,, BUT,,, worries me that if the centres of the restrictor & the threaded plug where off then you could possibly end up blocking the outlet hole a bit like a cam lock effect, wonder if putting a drilled plug down the throat of the supply passage or into the bearing journal outlet would be a safer bet?

I do how ever see reason with what is being said about the bearing restricting the flow thus making the plug a bit of a red herring but dont really want to have to pull the engine down again when Im proved wrong

Finally, what is the reason that it has been said to push a alloy rod into the bearing journal rather that to drill, tap & screw a plug in here to, is it due to the size of this oil way?

Cheers.

[c.ruber]

Glad I revisited this thread...
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...and progress is not intelligently planned...

[pupjoint]

bump. been a while now. anyone running without the restrictor having issues oil coming out from pulley on high mileage engines?

[67 Sunroof]

Bump!
I just drilled all of mine out and tapped them. (Even the #4 bearing one)
Any up to date info on longevity of just using the plug in the hole without a restrictor?
It makes sense that only as much will go through that small hole in the bearing as it will allow-effectively reducing the amount of oil, right?

[modok]

The oil flow at the bearing will be determined by the bearing clearance and size of the oil hole in the bearing.

it is possible that the "restrictor" is actually a filter.

[RWK]

Filter maybe, catch all definitely! all plugs I have pulled had crap on them and the galley is always full of crap,look close at pic of case, debris down it the hole,
this case had been "cleaned".

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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[DeathBySnuSnu]

[67 Sunroof]

[RWK]

That's what I do, I have done "all" of them, especially in old case's, anywhere there is a plug there is a chance of debris collected there, it's kind of like water/plumbing systems, where ever there is a dead head there is always junk there, (no offense to Dead Heads, for I'm one also) or a faucet that hasn't been turned on in awhile. I will post a pic later of how I pulled and plugged the one above the oil pressure sender on the top of case.
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[67 Sunroof]

Yeah if you don’t mind I would appreciate it.
Thanks for your insight!

[RWK]

I used a threadless plug in the vertical galley by the oil pressure sender, seems there wasn't enough mat'l to tap it, IMHO, so made a plug similar to the 1 shown, which is an item I use in mold making for water lines, it just needs to be backed up or held down, no treads to worry about, just a little oring lube and press in, they never leak, and they come out easy with tapped pull hole, hole does have to be accurate though, reamed hole, std. oring tolerance apply. Its been in 15 years.

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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[67 Sunroof]

What does this do compared to threading a plug in?
I already have all holes threaded. I was just wondering if the small hole I tapped needs a type of restrictor plug in it?
I’m not sure I would trust a plug with a rubber o ring in the block for years though.
It’s worked for you though!

[RWK]

No, most just plug the hole, no restrictor, believe the newer style bearings have a smaller hole that does the same, just showing the plug as a way to seal holes when there isn't enough depth to tap, o-rings are used extensively in high pressure hydraulics, they can leak though over time, but with low pressure oil system not likely, then you just pull and replace the ring, just my way of doing that particular oil line, I also have pipe plugs everywhere else. Pipe plugs have a limited number of R&R in a soft metal case, case can break easily so be careful.
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[Clatter]

Been running several motors now for years with no restrictor plug..

No sand seal, no issues with oil behind the pulley.

If you really care, make sure your #4 bearing has a small hole.

If you worry about failure in this area, make sure it’s clean and not plugged with crap.

We can put this one to rest now.
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