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Plugging oil galleys article...
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flip the spring with the plunger on the front (pulley side)
stack two of the rear plungers and surface the screw not to coil bind.
I use the LowBugget filter/oil bypass mount with psi control built in.
Need more help call as i hate to type!!!!
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VeeDubya
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does this address the no. 4 bearing getting over oiled? Eh?
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just getting ready to start putting all my new plugs in when I stumbled on this post and the 'dual relief oil system post'. I too would like to know if anyone has experienced problems with using just an NPT plug in that galley.

So when I get my new case next month, should I NOT touch that particular plug when I do the drilling and tapping?
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68suprise
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had that problem in my other bug. I removed all the plugs because my engine got water in it so I could clean it out and i removed that one too. I put pipe plugs back in everywhere and after 15000 miles it was blowing oil from the oil filler. Everyone told me it was blowby but the compression and a leakdown was ok. I replaced the rings and still had the same problem when the engine got warm. I almost could not drive it.Someone told me to replace the oil slinger ? So I did and replaced the bearings too. after that I did not have any oil problem I thought it was the slinger but it is starting to come back now and my engine is at 13000 miles since I put the new bearings in. When I read this artical I got a plug from another engine and cut is shorter and put it back in. There is not more oil problem now.
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't follow, what did you do exactly?
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68suprise
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took another restriction plug that I removed from another engine and made it shorterr so it would bit behind the pipe plug. I cut about 1/4 inch from the wider end and just pushed it in behind the pipe plug. I did not tap the hole very deeply like one person here said they did so I could do it.
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VeeDubya
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking of tapping the gallery behind the #4 bearing 1/16 NPT, drilling an aluminium or steel plug with a #31 drill (.120"/3.04mm) and chamfer the hole. The front of my case is already drilled and tapped for a 1/16" NPT plug and I can't find the old AL plug or I'd try to stuff it in in front of the the case front plug. I may go with a 1/8" drill (3.13mm) to err a little more on the side of safety. What do you all think?
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engineerorange
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my take at recreating the oil flow restrictor for the #4 bearing after drilling and tapping that galley for cleaning.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'll let you know if it works in 15,000 miles I guess.
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like what I suggested a while back. Does this seem reasonable?

VeeDubya wrote:
The restriction is not created by depth of the plug, but rather the orifice created. So ideally we'd want a longer (17mm) plug, threaded 1/16" NPT, necked down to 5.40 mm, to create the desired orifice. Correct?

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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's really cool. I'd love to know if it performs as well as a stock plug. I did not tap that galley during my rebuild, but I am still a little paranoid about it not being as clean as it could be.
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bartman
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so to recap.....this isn't a real problem if you are running a sand seal and threaded oil cap with a remote breather?
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buglover34465
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:02 am    Post subject: oil flow restrictor/ balancer Reply with quote

What Jimmy said makes sence hydraulically, you want more oil going to the loaded bearings with a lower flowrate to the less loaded bearings. I wonder if this was done in reaction to something. Bob hoover has his take here. Both he and Steve Bennett recommend removing the plug for aircraft use. http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/av-pulling-plug-ii.html
http://www.greatplainsas.com/service1.html
I have already pulled it and my engine is for auto use so I am pondering Jimmy's idea of an 20 mm long orifice insert with a 3mm hole. Bob Hoovers idea of the char pot scrubber used as an oil seperator may help keep the oil inside the engine.
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Bob Hoover
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: oil flow restrictor/ balancer Reply with quote

keep the oil inside the engine.[/quote]

buglover34465 wrote:

I have already pulled it and my engine is for auto use so I am pondering Jimmy's idea of an 20 mm long orifice insert with a 3mm hole. Bob Hoovers idea of the char pot scrubber used as an oil seperator may help keep the oil inside the engine.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

"...for auto use..." is the key phrase here. I have built engines for replicars that have turned over 7000 rpm and given reliable service for a number of races but an aircraft engine is not only different mechanically, it is based on an entirely different philosophy, one in which durability becomes the main tenet and all other aspects are secondary. Once started, an aircraft engine MUST NOT STOP until it runs out of fuel or air or the ignition is turned off. The normal operating speed of such engines is dictated by the airframe in which it is installed and the propeller that is used. Most of my flying VW conversion are intended for slow, draggy airframes, dictating the use of large, slow-turning props, which in turn dictate the design of the engine as one that produces maximum torque at relatively low rpm. Running at propeller speeds that seldom exceed 3000 rpm, the problem addressed in this thread simply does not arise and therefore is not addressed. When such an engine must be assembled from after-market VW components you are forced to make a number of compromises that would not be acceptable for a high-rpm engine connected to a gear-box.
I hope you can see the difficulty here. A number of modifications, such as those made to the lubrication system, are of benefit to both high rpm and high durability engines. The fundamental differences between a high-rpm, low torque engine, and a high-torque, low rpm engine, can cause a novice engine builder to draw a number of erroneous conclusions. For example, I often see my words cited as gospel. But without the required qualification: "...in airplane engines" which makes me sound like a raving lunatic when the thread is addressing a feature that DOES NOT apply to both aircraft and vehicular engines. Such errors are usually my fault in that, I assume someone who is going to literally risk their life on their engine has at least a basic knowledge of engines and knows what I mean when I say 'Otto Cycle,' 'Valve-train geometry' and so forth. But it appears that assumption is not valid for a lot of people working on a bug or bus. A nice example of this was a message from a bug owner who thought his distributor was turning at the same speed as the crankshaft. In tracking back, it turned out that he'd never even heard of 'Otto Cycle' and thought 'four-cycle' meant the same thing as 'four stroke."
I run into a lot of guys who have jumped into engine building without the benefit of basic automotive engineering... which brings up another common error, in that a novice is likely to ASSUME 'automotive' refers ONLY to bugs and buses. While 'automotive' INCLUDES bugs, buses and Bubba's pick-up truck, the TERM -- and the Society it has engendered (ie, the SAE) refers to anything that moves under its own power, be it a steam boat or a space shuttle. This can lead to some very awkward -- and lengthy -- exchanges, in which I am referring to something in the generic sense and the fellow assumes I'm referring specifically to his beetle.
This lack of fundamental knowledge is one of the reasons I have not bothered to spend much time here. Most of us come to the internet to GAIN information. (I'm not nearly as bright as some folks think I am.) But it turned out that 'expertise' was based on the number of posts a person made rather than their knowledge.
-Bob Hoover
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gerg
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK- so another stumbling block for me now on my 2276 refresh. The case was drilled and tapped for plugs INCLUDING this one - the long plug that restricts oil to the #4 main.

The shop that did the work may or may not have the plug they removed. I won't know till Monday.

I am running a sand seal, case is cut for it.

Berg oil breather, but no screw on oil cap.

Sounds like I will NOT be OK unless I figure out how to restrict this passage?

engineerorange - how did that plg work out for you?

I am really PO'd now as I wanted to start putting this together early next week and this is just one more freaking thing to be worried about. Confused
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gprudenciop
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just drill the center of the plug your going to put in it tap it 1/4 inch, thread in long hex head bolt with lock tight ,grind down threads to original diameter presto your done
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gerg
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read on the CLF that some have removed that plug and nevr had a problem.

Someone else suggested that the 2mm hole in the bearing was enough to restrict the flow?

Did early bearings have a larger oil feed hole?

I'll probably give the last suggestion a try as I do not want to F up my case trying to tap the oil galley output at the bearing surface for a plug with a small hole in it.
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ALB
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerg- Remember that a lot of the guys on the CLF are running cars that are not daily drivers and never see the mileage talked about here. A lot of
those motors are on the upper edge of being "streetable" and are torn down and the combo changed or even just rebearinged more often so oil leakage due to bearing wear never becomes an issue. Not trying to criticize, just something to think about. Al
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was sort of thinking along those lines too.

Thanks ALB for the reminder.

I drive my bus to TX from NV every year and countless SoCal and other trips - I would expect that I would see a problem.

I am going to look for some local help so I can get this fixed right - I like the idea of milling down a bolt or tapping the plug with 1/4" thread to put a plunger.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerg- make sure you take pictures. I want to see what you do. Al
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://s386.photobucket.com/albums/oo304/gprudenciop/?action=view&current=BabyBibianne067.jpg [img][/img]
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