Pertronix (all points replacements) vs Points

[Zundfolge1432]

24 pages later and Petronix is still the perfect answer for gen Xers and the geriatric crowd that can't bend over to do maintenance on a stock distributor. Say what you want I can still buy five sets of points and condensers and drive hundreds of thousands of miles for what you'll pay for a one time purchase of pertronix . My advice, learn how to properly maintain your car instead of looking for a pussy way out.

[BenJAMin]

13 years later the Pertronix still works. I want to say I paid about $80 at the time. I haven't even touched it. Your time is worth something too.

[Glenn]

[Max Welton]

Max
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[BenJAMin]

I took my '02 Grand Prix to 254k with one tune up at 150k
.[/quote]
12 years later I haven't had to do a tuneup to my wife's Accord. It still has the original spark plugs and runs great.[/quote]

[joescoolcustoms]

49 3/4 years and over 3 million miles, one kidney and one knee replacement. No points or Pertronix, just plenty of Mountain Dew.

Could break down tomorrow though.
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[fadumpt]

I read 5 pages in before I had to give up.
Very little usage results from both crowds and more pointless bickering then I could handle.

From what I can gather, points replacement is a great upgrade to your car as long as you keep in mind that a failure is always possible no matter what your choice and you should probably keep a spare set of points, condensor, and coil in your toolbox, because even though it's the preferred method by non-lazy people, it's still not going to be on the average order form of the store you broke down near.

Beyond that, the only thing stopping a person from having less maintenance worries is having an innate need to do that maintenance.

To respond to the Honda/Toyota response....I can't drive "my" Honda because it's my wife's...the beetle is my only way to work and needs to just work.

I don't want a Toyota...so why shouldn't I make the required changes to make my car work?
It was also mentioned about disc brakes, etc....and yes, front disc was a great upgrade and rear disc will be another great upgrade that I will make. If nothing else, drum brakes *sound* like too much maintenance involved, why would I not want better stopping and less maintenance on something I have to use daily?

I have a 1974 standard...if it was a 50's or early 60's, I would be morally required to keep it bone stock.

It would have been much nicer if people went against human nature and just weighed in on their choice and why and kinda almost left it at that.
This back and forth junk gave us endless pages of meaningless argument and obvious realizations (sprinkled on top).

[vwbusman66]

[Glenn]

[vwbusman66]

To confirm, as Muir said, a small dab between cam and points block (thingy that touches the skinny shaft and makes the points open and close in case my terminology sucks)
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WANTED: Annis Morrill Corp. dealer information and stuff
1958 L53 Pressed Bumper Panel
1973 Wild Westerner
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[modok]

[airschooled]

To ad fuel to the fire:

I had my first set of points break in 45,000 miles. It was a cheap brand from Asia; I do not remember the name. The upper arm for the moving contact came off the guide pin and bent the entire arm. I did not notice any reduced performance, though my fuel economy took a slight hit and my tach was a little jumpy around 2,000 RPMs. I found these in a swap meet bin and they were used but I swapped them in as an experiment in January.

I'm voting for points here. Because if you use the good ones, this doesn't happen. And if you don't use the good ones and the crap ones break, your car still runs fine.

Robbie

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[platatomi]

I just had a points-replacement device fail. I parked the car, and three hours later it would not start, no spark at all. I checked that I had power to the coil and fuel in the carbs, then swapped in my backup distributor with points, static-timed the engine, and drove home. I drove on that device for almost three years, thought it would last forever. They fail when you least expect it.
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Update -

No longer daily driver but still fixing things...

[Glenn]

[pb_foots]

Nice one Glenn.

fear, surprise, ruthless efficiency, an almost fanatical devotion to the Pope!

[johnnypan]

I expect it.

[itsmebryan]

I have used a lot of different ignition setups over the last 27 years. From the point on my first car '56 F100 pickup to coil on plugs crank triggered turbo e85 running 370+ whp Subaru that I tune myself on my laptop.

Point are the worst setup by far. They are the least accurate , prone to float, produce less power, etc... I even had a dual point setup on my '69 fastback Mustang that I put a 351C into because the single points would start to float around 6000rpms. And like all points they wear, the gap and dwell reduce and the contact get carbon build up and your performance slow starts to degrade every time you run you engine. That is a fact. You don't notice because it is a slow process that you become accustom to. Just like when I only drive my Subaru everyday it doesn't seem as fast because I get use to it even thought I have track it and it ran low 12's to high 11's. I don't really feel it is that fast unless I drive my old '92 Suburban(200hp) for awhile then go back to the Subaru.

For those that say electronic ignitions(EI) fail are really not being honest. Anything can fail and to say EI is more likely to fail is not true. Give it a good ground and power source and they will last much longer than point and will give you accurate timing over a much larger rpm range. On all of my old cars the first thing I do is throw away points and add EI and a MSD. On my '64 Pontiac Grand Prix w/ 400(bored to 412) and tri-power (3 x 2bbl carbs) I added EI and MSD and the car starts quicker , runs smoother , pulls harder, and runs better overall.

I know a lot of people do like change or want to keep a car like it was from the "factory" I get that but, the facts are EI is better than point. period. They stopped putting points in cars in the 70's for a reason. Everyone here who has a car build after the '70s has EI in the car they drive everyday and don't have a second thought about their EI failing but, for some reason it's a worry or a problem on a old VW Beetle. ? That is as bad as a friend of mine that bought a '88 mustang to race and took off the fuel injection because he thought carburetors are better. And we all know that is the farthest from the truth. But, in his old way of thinking cabs are the best. That is the say thing I think about the people that say points are better.

After all these year we seen and experienced proof that EI is better than points. But, the real argument should be what is the best EI option for VW Beetles not if points are better. I got the vac adv. electronic Flamethrower for my 1776 for Amazon for $122(2 day free shipping with prime). But, later I saw a vac. adv. electronic distributor available at Autozone for $121 with a coil and a lifetime warranty. Has anyone tried this one http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/distributo...0865_4618/ With a lifetime warranty if seems like a better option then my flamethrower. Especially if the cap, rotor, and coil is covered by the lifetime warranty like they do with brake pads.

[vwbusman66]

to be honest though, what is 1 or 2 horsepower on an engine that produces 50 on a good day. I can understand where you're coming from, but when they do fail (Electronic ignitions, I've seen it happen), you better have a replacement set. With points, from personal experience and others stated, they tend to wear slowly, therefore giving you a gentle reminder that you're due for an oil change and valve check. After all, points only take 5 mins to adjust, lube, and file. Im fine with carrying an extra set of points and condensers, a points file, and points lube as a back up. Yes, for a water- cooled, 375 horse power, flame throwing engine, points are bound to suck, but for a tiny little 1.3 liter 44hp engine, Ill stick with points.
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WANTED: Annis Morrill Corp. dealer information and stuff
1958 L53 Pressed Bumper Panel
1973 Wild Westerner
Click to view image

[Bruce]

[airschooled]