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What did you do for your Bay recently?
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melville
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New forward shift rod bushing (under the shifter) in the Westy. Nice to go down the road without that drumroll sound.

The last one went <20K miles, though. How long should they last?
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shift bushing should last for over 100K. Maybe some other problem- other bushings on shift rod bad, or too much dirt getting up there?
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

melville wrote:
New forward shift rod bushing (under the shifter) in the Westy. Nice to go down the road without that drumroll sound.

The last one went <20K miles, though. How long should they last?



Can you elaborate on that sound? I have a sound that's annoying but I cannot tell what it is. It gets louder the faster I go and it sounds like it's coming from the front of the bus but I can't pin point it.
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kevinj73us
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked up a new awning today, almost ready for summer!

kj

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melville
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1967250s wrote:
The shift bushing should last for over 100K. Maybe some other problem- other bushings on shift rod bad, or too much dirt getting up there?


Boy, no. All other bushings were fresh at the same time, even the brass bits in the trans nosecone.

Shane--jiggle the shifter when you hear it, and see if there's a change.

The bushing kit I got has enough for everything, and a second set of frontmost bushings if you swing both ways--early Bays have a different forward bushing. $15 at my FLAPS.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my throttle positioner, altitude adjuster, dashpot, and all vacuum lines sorted out today. Everything adjusted per Bentley and working 100% like a new bus.

Happy Earth Day (tomorrow) everyone!

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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

melville wrote:
1967250s wrote:
The shift bushing should last for over 100K. Maybe some other problem- other bushings on shift rod bad, or too much dirt getting up there?


Boy, no. All other bushings were fresh at the same time, even the brass bits in the trans nosecone.

Shane--jiggle the shifter when you hear it, and see if there's a change.

The bushing kit I got has enough for everything, and a second set of frontmost bushings if you swing both ways--early Bays have a different forward bushing. $15 at my FLAPS.


Will do! Thanks!
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got some much needed maintenance done:

New ball joints
New steering damper
New tie rod ends
New shocks
New front brake pads

It's like driving a different vehicle now. All the suspension parts (except shocks) were original.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

melville wrote:
1967250s wrote:
The shift bushing should last for over 100K. Maybe some other problem- other bushings on shift rod bad, or too much dirt getting up there?


Boy, no. All other bushings were fresh at the same time, even the brass bits in the trans nosecone.

Shane--jiggle the shifter when you hear it, and see if there's a change.

The bushing kit I got has enough for everything, and a second set of frontmost bushings if you swing both ways--early Bays have a different forward bushing. $15 at my FLAPS.


You were able to buy a bus shift bushing kit at your FLAPS? That is surprising, but good to know.
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richparker
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:


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Looking good! I'm suprised you are running an EMPI pully and not a stock one.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

richparker wrote:
asiab3 wrote:


[img]


Looking good! I'm suprised you are running an EMPI pully and not a stock one.


Thanks. I've been experimenting with the Mallory so much, I need every degree marking. The stock one will go back on once I get the curve to my liking.
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canes5time
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the lighter of the two hoses from the altitude adjuster going to the vacuum hookup for the distributor? Isn't it supposed to hook up to the vacuum nipple on the end casting on the 3/4 intake side?


asiab3 wrote:
Got my throttle positioner, altitude adjuster, dashpot, and all vacuum lines sorted out today. Everything adjusted per Bentley and working 100% like a new bus.

Happy Earth Day (tomorrow) everyone!

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airschooled
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

canes5time wrote:
Is the lighter of the two hoses from the altitude adjuster going to the vacuum hookup for the distributor? Isn't it supposed to hook up to the vacuum nipple on the end casting on the 3/4 intake side?

asiab3 wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It is hooked up to the center intake manifold port below the carb gasket area. Same vacuum pressure, longer hose for now. (Look for the hose clamp.) My intake manifold side piece doesn't have the 3/4 vacuum nipple like it should, but next time I have it off I'm going to swap one in. I'll probably do a writeup about the various engine enhancers that also reduce pollution if I ever get around to taking good photos. Wink
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melville
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
melville wrote:
1967250s wrote:
The shift bushing should last for over 100K. Maybe some other problem- other bushings on shift rod bad, or too much dirt getting up there?


Boy, no. All other bushings were fresh at the same time, even the brass bits in the trans nosecone.

Shane--jiggle the shifter when you hear it, and see if there's a change.

The bushing kit I got has enough for everything, and a second set of frontmost bushings if you swing both ways--early Bays have a different forward bushing. $15 at my FLAPS.


You were able to buy a bus shift bushing kit at your FLAPS? That is surprising, but good to know.


It's a foreign FLAPS with a repair shop (their main business) attached. They stock a lot of stuff to support their good repair business.

Remember, the 'F' in FLAPS is for 'favorite.'
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was having trouble getting out a flat spot in my carbs. Timing was out so I retimed it to 10.5* static and 32* advanced, still flat. Changed the idle jets back to 55 from 50. I really didn't want to but it worked. Noticeable difference, it was quieter and smoother. I haven't noticed a change in mpg since I have been messing with the jets so no biggie. Maybe advancing the timing will help the mpg a little. Pulled the plugs, they looked perfect. I took some pics but they all came out blury. It was super sunny and the camera focused on the back round, oh well. Went for a 30 mile drive on the highway, cruised 65-70 no problems. It sounded great. Got the shipment notafacation for CIP1 today. My big-o-box of parts should be here Monday. Can't wait!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

richparker wrote:
I was having trouble getting out a flat spot in my carbs. Timing was out so I retimed it to 10.5* static and 32* advanced, still flat. Changed the idle jets back to 55 from 50. I really didn't want to but it worked. Noticeable difference, it was quieter and smoother. I haven't noticed a change in mpg since I have been messing with the jets so no biggie. Maybe advancing the timing will help the mpg a little. Pulled the plugs, they looked perfect. I took some pics but they all came out blury. It was super sunny and the camera focused on the back round, oh well. Went for a 30 mile drive on the highway, cruised 65-70 no problems. It sounded great. Got the shipment notafacation for CIP1 today. My big-o-box of parts should be here Monday. Can't wait!


Do the carbs have an accelerator pump you can adjust? Also, what kind of distributor do you run? I've richened the pump squirt while using a leaner idle jet with good results pairing a 009 with 34pict3. Obviously your setup is different though...
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MonkeySee
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: For my 1970 Bay Westy Reply with quote

I bought some vintage Hella driving lamps (clear lenses) at a garage sale that actually work. They have this huge bulb
inside them but I want more lumination. The lady said that her husband had them on his old VW Bug some years ago
and he and the Bug are long gone. I was happy to take them off her hands for $4pr. I am thinking of converting them
to LED lamps (keeping all original parts) and buying some front bumper overriders on which to mount them as I
plan on converting all lamps to LEDs but under the original lenses, except for the headlights which will be noticeable.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last month I did a taco-shop parking lot clutch cable replacement. Surprisingly, my Gemo cable lasted almost two years with NO grease on the clevis pin. I greased the cable where it goes through the tube, but didn't know any better for the front. Back at the taco shop I greased the new cable and pin properly, but I bent the bowden tube too much and got a hairline crack all the way through the rubber inside. (Side note- bowden tubes have a rubber outside, metal wound skeleton, and a rubber tube inside.)

Today I finally got a nice lazy afternoon to replace the tube. On my test drive, I got fed up with the groan from the clutch pedal that has been on and off for two months. Removing all my work from earlier, I decided to go "Full Colin" and remove, clean, restore, prime, paint, and enjoy.

The arm and housing:

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See the scoring on the shaft? Bits of dirt or sand made it into the shaft, and I think I caught it in time to save the arm. The housing looked the same. There is a centimeter-ish wide space in the housing where extra grease can go. Mine was almost dry. I think the O-rings are tapered, or at least mine held their shape when removed. The rubber was in great condition, so I reused them.

Two years ago when I replaced my first clutch cable, I had to scrape factory undercoating off of the 13mm nuts that hold the arm housing on. How cool- original cable! This time I scraped the rest of the undercoating off the arm and housing. Broke two razor blades but didn't cut myself! Tore through two wire wheels on the Dremel, and finally got them down to bare metal. This was the coating just from the housing, not the arm yet!

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No pictures here, but I primed and painted after sanding smooth by Dremel then hand. Afterwards, I went 1000, 2000, and emory cloth on the arm shaft. I broke out the master cylinder hone to hone the inside of the housing, and got them both shiny and smooth. Packed the inside pocket with grease and a tiny coat on the arm and housing surfaces as well. Got the o-rings cleaned and installed, almost put the arm hook on backwards, but eventually got it all buttoned up and the cable adjusted. Perfectly smooth, silent, and easy to push. Yum.

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Apologies for the cell phone flash pictures- the paint is much more consistent and even in regular light.
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Keith
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^

FYI, Undercoating didn't come from the factory, it was a dealer option. Nice job !!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith wrote:
^^^

FYI, Undercoating didn't come from the factory, it was a dealer option. Nice job !!


Ah. Then my Northeastern delivery port explains the cake of rubber. It wasn't tourist delivery, but the original couple that owned it picked it up in Pittsburg or Philly, (don't remember at the moment,) and toured the US before making central CA their home. Nothing beats that combo for dry, rust-free bus Cool
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