What did you do for your Bay recently?

christine72 · Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:50 pm Post subject:

1. Fixed the sticky accelerator. It was so slow to return the engine raced at stops and when engaging the clutch. It was a caked up pedal hinge, and bent linkage at the underside of the pedal was binding the push rod. I straightened the linkage and cleaned the hinge.

2. Re greased and adjusted the shifter because getting into 1st and 2nd was tricky, and it was squeaking when I shifted. Shifts like butter now. Slides right into all 5 gears (including reverse there).
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'74 Bay - ASI camper body w/'72 Bay - undercarriage and a '76 2000cc rebuilt engine

Past VWs
1967 Fastback (my first car); 1971 Square back; Several Jettas '88 -'97

The one I regret not buying:
72 Karmann Ghia, with autostick.

AussieBay · Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 2:21 pm Post subject:

Fitted a Gene Berg shifter, lovely bit of kit!

jamracing · Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 10:10 am Post subject: Installed my metal dash!

Got the dash installed.
Before:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After:

I got another dash from a junk yard and striped the padding off. I filled in the holes and painted it. I am rear happy with the results. It really brightens up the inside.

kevinj73us · Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:33 am Post subject:

Removed, cleaned and reinstalled my transmission ground strap, inspected all the starter side wires and connectors, and determined that I probably have an issue at the ignition switch end. That's a job for the next free weekend.

Also got a box in the mail with new front seat pads from Wolfsburg West to get me motivated on fixing those in the spring.

kj
_________________
1973 Station Wagon
m-plate

Quail · Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:51 pm Post subject:

First post, Whoo!

Just got the sheet metal for replacing my battery tray, only through rust I've found on my 71 camper, and will be cutting out and welding it in this weekend while I finish up the body work on the same corner panel. Then, tackling the rear main and oil cooler seals!
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71' Camper

"To sin by silence, when they should protest, makes cowards of men."
-A. Lincoln

Goshen · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 7:47 pm Post subject:

Well here I start the tearing down process of the motor since the auto shop that said they had done the work with the previous owner we now have uncovered that they really did not do it. They charged the previous owner about $2,800.

I sold this ugly muffler for $40.00 today

Tearing down the motor we found the stock oil cooler leaking as well as the rear main seal. There was quite a bit of red rtv silicone on the intake manifolds, and just about everywhere so I went ahead and bought new seals. The motor tin will be powdercoated black for a fresh new appearance.

I am going to use degreaser to clean up the block and paint aluminum color.

I took all the engine tin to Bullseye Powdercoating and they are going to powdercoat it Black Satin. So it will look something like this

I sold the Progressive 2BBL carburetor for $40.00 and I am going to replace It with a Solex 34PICT

]

I had to remove the fuel tank because the filter was brown from all the dirt that was in the tank..
Had to dip the tank and have it relined or sealed.

I installed the freshly dipped and resealed fuel tank

I also painted the interior of the engine bay with bedliner paint

This is what i plan on doing with mine but it will be Maseratti Blue Oceano instead of Red

_________________
My '64 Pan Meyers Manx Dune Buggy "Lady in Red"
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=659260

My '67 Split Window Bus project :
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=634144

My '67 Maserati Blue Oceano Bug Build:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541870

cdennisg · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:02 pm Post subject:

A few tips.

1) Strap that tranny up with a ratchet strap or something. Letting it hang like that can bend the hockey stick/shift rod or break the nose cone or front mount.

2) Ditch that crappy Chinese 36HP style fan shroud and get a German dog house style setup. your engine and your bus will thank you. Use the 36 tin for target practice.

3) Spread the word to anyone who will listen about how that shop screwed the guy out of his $2800.
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nothing

Goshen · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:10 pm Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject:

Goshen · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:46 pm Post subject:

TwistedGray · Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 1:33 pm Post subject:

Installed period correct seat belts on both sides.

Painted new vanity plates with yellow/blue decor as was in '69.

Cut out the rusted holes on the passenger side and welded in a new floor pan/repair. Still need to do driver's side, but that's more complicated given slight front end damage.

MonkeySee · Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:02 pm Post subject:

Mountain Minstrel · Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:45 pm Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 1:11 pm Post subject:

Over the last 3-4 days I did an R&R on my 70 rear window to replace a leaking seal. When I pulled to glass, I found just a few small areas of rust bubbles. Scraped them down, hit them with ospho, cleaned and painted the spots. Installed the window with a fresh gasket by myself yesterday. Took less than two minutes to install.

This was one of those jobs I should have done a long time ago, but kept putting it off for some reason. I am glad to have it done. Now I can move on to the myriad other projects on this bus.
_________________
nothing

TwistedGray · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 7:33 pm Post subject:

Tcash · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 7:55 pm Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:42 pm Post subject:

Dubskii · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 10:20 pm Post subject:

Rebuilt my 69 sunroof deluxe's fuel pump. Ran into some excessive pressure issues so I swapped it out for a new Airtex fuel pump based on some Samba recommendations. Working like a charm now.

Next up the CV boots. Questions...
1) What do you airheads out there recommend, the star bolt of hex bolt pattern for the CVs?
2) What to use on the other side of the boot (not CV joint side). Plastic zip ties?

christine72 · Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 12:22 am Post subject: Replaced sliding door seal

Found the carpet in the camper saturated after a night of rain, so pulled off the door and knocked in a new seal.

Thanks to the threads on Samba it went in nice and easy (using silicone spray was a great tip), and I'm confident it's in correctly.

Door was opening/closing easily before taking it off.
The seal is nice and snug top, bottom and front edge, but back edge doesn't seem to be tight and does lift upon opening, catching on the rear of the door. I may apply some glue, but want to give it a few days to settle in.

From inside I can see daylight coming in along the front edge. I suppose that means door needs an adjustment.

Here is the rub - Door was operating fine before I did this. Now when fully opened, the outer lever doesn't release it to close. Gotta reach inside to get her free for closing. Dang it. Hoping it's just an adjustment of the cable or something. Tips and insights to resolve this would be very appreciated! I took lots of pictures and not a one turned out...sigh
_________________
'74 Bay - ASI camper body w/'72 Bay - undercarriage and a '76 2000cc rebuilt engine

Past VWs
1967 Fastback (my first car); 1971 Square back; Several Jettas '88 -'97

The one I regret not buying:
72 Karmann Ghia, with autostick.


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