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bugbyte Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005 Posts: 500 Location: Palm Bay, Florida
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 12:54 pm Post subject: Can clutch freeplay be adjusted while engine is out? |
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I have my engine out. Can I still adjust freeplay? Or do I have to wait until there's a load on it?
Last edited by bugbyte on Fri Mar 07, 2008 1:25 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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vwracerdave Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004 Posts: 15308 Location: Deep in the 405
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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No. The engine must be installed. _________________ 2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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In fact it's best to back off the adjustment on the cable/wing nut/nuts before installing the engine and adjust it after you get it back in. Especially if you have changed the clutch parts with new. |
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piemat Snobbish Elite Volkswagen Fanatic
Joined: February 20, 2005 Posts: 911 Location: Texas
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31379 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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piemat wrote: |
Good chance to make sure the wing nut isn't frozen. |
He means clean the threads and lightly grease them. If you take the wing nut all the way off (hint: DON'T), make sure that the cable is pulled taught so the clutch hook doesn't slip off the pedal hook. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Gary Person of Interest
Joined: November 01, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Cusser wrote: |
piemat wrote: |
Good chance to make sure the wing nut isn't frozen. |
He means clean the threads and lightly grease them. If you take the wing nut all the way off (hint: DON'T), make sure that the cable is pulled taught so the clutch hook doesn't slip off the pedal hook. |
Rather than using grease I use Anti-Seize. Grease tends to harden and collect dirt over time making the next removal attempt a challenge. I've never had that happen with Anti-Seize. _________________ West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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When you adjust free play at the pedal, what you are really adjusting is the space between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate.
It's kind of difficult to do that if the pressure plate isn't there. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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drscope wrote: |
When you adjust free play at the pedal, what you are really adjusting is the space between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate.
It's kind of difficult to do that if the pressure plate isn't there. |
Exactly^ good point Doc... and I prefer to adjust it by pulling on the arm ( while adjusting) and seeing how far the arm moves before you "feel it" kiss the pressure plate.
If you have any pedal assembly or cable /tube issues you often find that the clutch is "over adjusted" and may "feel right" at the pedal but the throw out bearing is contacting the PP and spinning all the time ( which as we know leads to a much shortened life)
Also in my previous post what I was referring too is that if you do not back off the clutch adjustment when the engine is out... it can be difficult to put back in/mate to the bellhousing... if you change clutch parts ( new thicker disc and PP that has not collapsed some from wear and tear) the difference is there... |
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bugbyte Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005 Posts: 500 Location: Palm Bay, Florida
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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Guys, thanks for the input. The reason my engine is out of the bug is because it was making a noise, sorta like a clanking sound. I just couldn't identify it. It was coming directly from the center of the engine, and was even running good. But with the noise I was scared something was dangerously wrong. So, I've torn down the engine and didn't find anything particularly wrong.
After a lot of thinking about it (you know that obsessed feeling I'm sure), I came up with the clutch cable being too tight as the possible cause. -
I'll let you know after I get the engine back in. Oh, and BTW, the engine has been a PIA to get in.
...Rich |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:43 pm Post subject: |
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bugbyte wrote: |
Guys, thanks for the input. The reason my engine is out of the bug is because it was making a noise, sorta like a clanking sound. I just couldn't identify it. It was coming directly from the center of the engine, and was even running good. But with the noise I was scared something was dangerously wrong. So, I've torn down the engine and didn't find anything particularly wrong.
After a lot of thinking about it (you know that obsessed feeling I'm sure), I came up with the clutch cable being too tight as the possible cause. -
I'll let you know after I get the engine back in. Oh, and BTW, the engine has been a PIA to get in.
...Rich |
While it is out are you changing the clutch parts as well? check the clutch "sticky" to see if you have the right parts?
A bad throw out bearing or funky clutch parts can make sounds/knocking noises etc that have led many ( in experienced and otherwise) to believe that something is wrong with the engine internally but turned out to be external in nature..
do you have any pictures you can share? |
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andk5591 Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2005 Posts: 16758 Location: State College, PA
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Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 6:08 am Post subject: |
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Lets hope for something simple - Is the crank pulley tin in place? Check for it rubbing on the crank pulley itself. I had installed a filter/pump and didn't realize that I had to clearance the tin a little and it made one hell of a scarey sound. I thought I had a crank issue, but I didnt. _________________ D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them... |
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bugbyte Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005 Posts: 500 Location: Palm Bay, Florida
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Well. It turned out that after I dropped the engine (again) that the #1 noise was coming from the fan rubbing against the shroud. It would only do it when the alternator was strapped down. I broke the fan down and found that the smaller support plate, the one between the two large ones, was actually missing. (TTPO: thanks to previous owner). I took one off of a generator I had in the corner of the garage, and I added two more shims just to play it safe. Voila'! - No more noise.
The #2 noise was indeed coming from the throw out bearing being adjusted prior to putting the engine back in. While I was in there I replaced the throw out bearing and the clutch. Woohoo!
I'm looking forward to driving my bug more than fixing it.
Thanks for all your inputs.
http://www.1974beetle.com |
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