Where to get a relief valve reamer?

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7389

How do you replicate that counter sink-just use a 10mm drill bit?

Jimmy111 · Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:05 pm Post subject:

I dont remember, Ill check. I think it was a 10mm.

Clatter · Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:27 pm Post subject:

Sweet!

How much for a tool with the correct bevel?
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Clatter · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:10 am Post subject:

Bump!

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nsracing · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:13 am Post subject:

You should not need to re-countersink it. All you are doing is re-surfacing that a tiny bit. 0.001 - 0.002 inch should be plenty to clean up.

You are not trying to mill it down, are ya? Very Happy

Clatter · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:27 am Post subject:

Nick, you can make one?
How much?
The people want to know!
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nsracing · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:31 am Post subject:

Clatter · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:33 am Post subject:

As far as i can tell, we want a 4-flute end mill.
Long shank.

Preferably with the sides a little dull, maybe polished/broken edges.

Plus a stop, (collet stop?)
The stop was knurled, so you could grab it pretty good.
Sticking a thou or two feeler gauge in for to set the depth of cut,
then turning by hand cleaned 'em up pretty nicely.

A pro machinist might have a good relationship with tooling suppliers, and get a deal, right? Very Happy

Can't remember, but think it should run about 50-60 bucks, maybe? Question

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Clatter · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:35 am Post subject:

because we are taking off just a little (hopefully),
and a little more oil pressure can be a good thing for some of us....

Maybe no need to go for the taper, right?
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Jimmy111 · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:58 am Post subject:

I thought I sent you a PM. Well you should use a 3/8" or 1/2" drill for the taper. You want it to be about 11 mm in diameter. The bigger the diameter the lower the pressure required to open the valve. If you cant find a tool. Just go to the local auto parts supply house and buy some 100 and 400 sticky back sand paper. You just need one sheet of each one. Cut a piece of 100 grit that is the size of your piston. (16mm) stick it to the end of the piston and drop the piston in the hole. Use a wooden dowel that will barely fit in the hole in the back of the piston and rotate the piston to clean the surface. After it is smooth use the 400 grit and do the same thing. It takes a long time but works well. A tool would be better but if you are in a pinch.

Nick. what he said would work fine but make it more of a grinder than a cutter. A 6mm pilot might be good too.

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

Guys, theres more to this than just resurfacing the seat face. The bigger problem is the case bore, think of it as piston to cylinder clearance. When the bore wears out the piston becomes sloppy, it starts to rock in it's bore and can either hang up on an edge due to wear or just become plain sloppy allowing pressure to simply bypass the piston.
This becomes particularly evident at idle and slow speeds when pump speed is low, causing your warning light to come on.
This is the case for both the bypass and relief pistons, and why the PRV conversion to a ball works so well. The seat pressed into the case has the proper surface impressed into which the ball seals too. It's a perfect seal and never wears out.
Back before the ball idea, the hot ticket on the old cases was to ream the bores to fit a new oversize relief piston giving everything a fresh start.
Another on topic concern is the replacement pistons, the majority of aftermarket pistons I come across are under size to start with, not good on a fresh rebuild.

Jimmy111 · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:24 am Post subject:

I agree with you 100% But the parts just arent available to the average person....
Do you have any photos of that ball valve? Ive been trying to find one that I didnt have to buy Very Happy

To take a look at but no luck yet...

SRP1 · Samba Member Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 4340

PRV conversion parts are available to the average joe. I would offer them as I use them in every engine I build, however I can't take credit for it. Adrian at headflow designed it, it's his product and his idea, call him up.
Just for the record it was Adrian who designed this for Mr.Bergmann.

Headflow masters
760-727-1827

Clatter · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:51 pm Post subject:

I just ordered the kit from Adrian.
$95

Will report back...
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Clatter · Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 1:45 pm Post subject:

Check it out...
Still have to install it, though.
How do think it will work?
It has the hole all the way through, like the side shown here, only without the ID chamfer (sp?).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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nsracing · Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 2:49 pm Post subject:

How much for those two pieces of steel? $115!!! Holy Cow! Laughing

Maybe I can start producing those for $50

[email protected] · Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 2:50 pm Post subject:

Jimmy111 · Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject:

That is for a type 4. It will work in a type 4 but I cant see it working correctly in a type 1.

Yes, Nick is correct if only a very small amount is milled off. The problem is when the entire Countersink Shocked

or a good portion of it is milled off.

Tvättbjörn · Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 9:21 pm Post subject:

lostinbaja · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 4:45 am Post subject:


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Where to get a relief valve reamer?
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