Merged header slip joint leak

[D/A/N]

As you can see, my header is leaking pretty badly at one of the slip joints. I've read around and have noticed folks saying that "it'll carbon up and stop leaking" or "use hi-temp silicone" or "use muffler cement", or "put a clamp around the joint", but none of that has worked for me. The muffler cement was a while ago but you can see the carbon and the residue of hi-temp silicone. I removed the clamp for the picture.

Nothing has stopped the popping on deceleration or has prevented the carbon traces on the pipe. FWIW, this is a ceramic coated Berg header. Is there any other way to seal up this joint? Welding? Just live with it? I'd prefer not to.

[74 Thing]

I had the same problem with a Berg header and did everything that you had tried with no avail. Finally tack welded it then pulled it off and welded it fully.

[Glenn]

My Berg header never leaked.

Muffler cement should of worked.
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[slalombuggy]

Did you smear the muffler cement on and then slide the tubes together? That should have worked

What are you running for a muffler? My headers only leaked like that when I had a lot of backpressure.

brad

[vwracerdave]

Remove the header and completely clean all the joints with acetone making sure you remove all the old RTV. Use Copper Hi-Temp RTV on the male joint about 1/2" wide bead all the way around the tube. Install header on engine and let it set 24 hours to cure before you start the engine.
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[neil68]

I had the same problem with slip joints on two brands of headers. What worked for me was to use a good coating of "Anti-Seize". It seals the gap and is flexible as the pipes slide in and out at different temperatures.
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[ps2375]

This stuff works very well. Worked well on muffler pipe, not sure if it's up to header temp use...you could give 'em a call and ask.
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_pa...cts_id=754

And they sell it in a smaller qty too.

[mark tucker]

I cleaned mine like davy said then a swip inside and out side the tube's and assemble as fast as you can.either the ultra orang or blue. Ive used the blue befor and it never set up in the closed spaces.3 years lator removing it it was still stickey&gooey and wiped off but did it's job. it also sounds like back pressure or merged header that wasent made right.

[D/A/N]

The whole exhaust set-up is the one in the pic below. My understanding is that this is a fairly common system and that excessive back pressure isn't normally an issue but perhaps it is in my case? That muffler looks suitable, yes?

Removing the header, cleaning it up, applying a sealant, and reassembling seems like the way to go. Is there a particular reason why having it welded up isn't the first option anyone is suggesting?

[MMCCARTHY]

Getting a welded header off the engine will be tough . If you never plan to use this header for any other engine combination you could weld flanges at that location so that you could bolt them together at the J pipe . This is what my turbo setup has , never leaks.

[madmike]

Hey Mike that's sweet
Seems a shame to weld and screw up the ceramic coating
x3 with Dave suggestion ,it works
maybe a baffle broke loose in the muffler and causes more back pressure?
thus the leaks?
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[74 Thing]

Like I said I did everything you tried and maybe more and still had the leak at the slip joints from cylinders 2 and 4. I welded those. You can use flanges too as an option. The J pipe tubes from cylinders 1 & 3 do not leak on mine just using the high temp RTV so I left those alone.

[D/A/N]

Ok, so I'll follow Dave's suggestion. I guess when I have the muffler off, I can hear if something's rattling around in there. A broken baffle should make a sound, right?

[ps2375]

They generally make sounds when idling and will def rattle when shaken or thumped with your hand.

[Bruce]

I tried gluing but it didn't last, so I cut two slits in the end of the female tube about 2cm long 180º opposite of each other. Install a band clamp.
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[Glenn]

Berg 1-5/8" 6 years old... never a problem.

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"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[67rustavenger]

[/quote]
The answer is in this Berg image. There are no slip joints in this system. All connections are flanged and gasketed. The builder of the custom header (not Berg) on my car welded flanges at the slip joints. No leaks or air caused popping on deceleration.

This is what my header looks like. Not pretty. But functional.
Good luck
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[Glenn]

[67rustavenger]

Yeah! F**k Me. I just noticed that.
Please disregard my post.
Thanks Glenn
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Dr OnHolliday]

I'd consider slightly expanding a part of the smaller slip pipe...kinda like a donut in the mid-length of it
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