Clock repair

flatfourfan · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:30 am Post subject:

Can anyone show me a picture of the actual fuse that needs to be replaced?

Or is it the small resistor looking unit pictured above?

I've done a search and everything leads me back to this thread.

Cheers

- G
_________________
1957 KCC Porsche Speedster

www.vwsport.co.za
www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/forum

MConverse · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:17 pm Post subject:

It's not a "fuse" in the traditional sense, it's a drop of solder between two pieces of metal.

This is a great writeup on repairing the clock: http://www.aircooledtech.com/vdo_repair/

Look at picture #1 That piece of copper with the eyelet at the end he is pointing to, is soldered to the eyelet right above it.

Put a drop of low temp solder right there so it makes a connection, oil it, hit it with some high pressure air to get oil in all the crevices and it should start working again.

I just went thru this procedure this weekend and it worked out great.

Cheers,

Mike

flatfourfan · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:11 pm Post subject:

miomio · Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 5:25 pm Post subject:

Wow guys, besides the fact that I'm going blind (can't see where the fuse goes Confused

(of course, not the broken one Evil or Very Mad

), what about a fix for a 6 volt clock? I'm about to put mines out and appart but I'm also thinking about buying somebody elses before I ruin mine's Wink

Bobnotch · Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:15 pm Post subject:

I guess I need to post some pics of my clock repair. Granted it's not very conventional, but it does work. It's very similar to what was done on page one of this thread, and the clock can be used in either a 12 volt, or a 6 volt car. Cool

It's pretty simple, and requires using a clock kit from Walmart, or one of the other like stores. I just happened to get mine from Walmart (the long shaft version) for 4.95, and the only added part was a 3/8-16 nut for a spacer. I did have to trim the minute hand down from the kit, but the hour hand from the original clock was reused. I did have to gut the original clock works, and open the original shaft hole slightly (so the new threaded shaft could pass thru). It keeps very accurate time, and the AA battery lasts quite a while (4 months so far on the one in my 65 Notch, and it's been sitting here next to my computer monitor for the last month). The conversion took me about 45 minutes the first time, but by the time I did a 3rd one, I had that time down to a half hour. Very Happy

_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

flatfourfan · Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:01 am Post subject:

miomio · Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:40 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the light flatfourfan. It's just that it looked like part of the welding as you pull away from it. That IS a great take with the hightlighted drawing. I'll cancel my eye doctor's appointmement Shocked

TommyBoyGomes · Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:27 pm Post subject:

Well, I've been at this repair for 3 hours now and have followed all of the direction to a T (even the ones in the other link) and have had no luck. I've re-soldered that gap 3 times, twice with a strand of copper wire inbetween the gap and every time I get no movement out of the point (or anything) when I apply power.

It doesn't even look like the point has anything to hit if it were to move in either direction. This is very frustrating, can anyone offer any help? Thank you.

raygreenwood · Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 8:47 pm Post subject:

If you have repaired the link and get no point movement...file teh points. They get carbonized. If no luck...then the solenoid is burned out.

If you have clocks from the last two years of type 3...they are superb. Some are tuning fork clocks...not mehcanical. They never fail. You have to do a little modifying to get them fit into the slightly earlier instruments.

Oh also...when you apply + to the terminal on the back of teh clock...you must have the chassis of the clock grounded to negative in order to get a circuit. Ray

TommyBoyGomes · Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject:

Thank you for the response Ray. The chassis of the clock was indeed grounded at the time of testing (I tested using two different grounds and two different +'s, both of which registered 12V on the voltmeter).

What I am a little concerned about is that the point arm on my clock doesn't look similar to the one in the previous photos in this thread. My clock (69) seems to only have the point arm, but I don't see a second fixed point for it to contact... is a 69 clock different from the ones in the pictures? Thanks!

TommyBoyGomes · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:30 pm Post subject:

*UPDATE*

So in the end I decided that it would be best for me to leave this to a professional. After taking it to a few watch/clock repair shops around LA and being denied, I finally found one who fixed it.

His name is Max Keller and works at a jeweler shop in El Segundo, California (I forget the name of his shop right now, but I'll get it when I pick it up).

He said that he was able to fix it so that it still ran electromagnetically (not a quartz conversion) and so far it looks to keep time well. He said that either the low-temp solder didn't do the job or I had fried some other components when I tried to solder a piece between those two points, so be careful and use an appropriately-sized soldering iron if you're going to do this yourself.

The price was a little expensive ($95!) but was far cheaper than a quartz conversion would have cost from another watch maker ($200+). I know $95 is alot to fix a stupid clock, but for those that want the original clock to work as it was originally intended, at least I found someone who could do it.

I'll give you guys another update when I go to pick it up to verify that it keeps time, etc. Just thought I'd share!

TommyBoyGomes · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 4:22 pm Post subject:

correction, his name is Walter Keller and the name of the jeweler that he works at is "blue diamond jewelers" www.bluediamond4.com although the link didn't work when I just tried it.

68notch · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:17 am Post subject:

So I have made this fix with soldering the link, filed the electrical terminal with emery paper, checked the power supply with a meter (12.4v), checked the fuse under the dash and wriggled the gauge in place to try and get good ground in the hope it would come to life but nothing seems to be working for me. No clack, click or tick! Sad

Any more tips or something I have missed?

Only plus is that the back light works.
_________________
John

68 Aussie notch
2011 Citroen Berlingo

https://www.facebook.com/Fastacraft

RHD dash pad project http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475227

TommyBoyGomes · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:24 am Post subject:

sorry to dissapoint you notch, but the backlight actually has nothing to do with the clock mechanisms Smile

. I got to the point where you did and decided that it would be best for my sanity to let a clock-maker handle it... If you figure it out, fair play to ya!
_________________
1969 Squareback, 1776cc
1990 Vanagon Multivan

Tram · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:18 pm Post subject:

supaninja · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:37 pm Post subject:

I got an early 6v clock, it didn't work so I took it apart. wow lots of metal gears, its neato looking inside. anyways, i saw some thing dangling, pushed into some other weird looking thing and it started working. got about 3 weeks of 12v on it and it works just doesn't keep accurate time, when i have some free time on it i'll place with the adjuster.
_________________
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/chucky1974/ninja.gif

Nick
Megasquirted Type 4 powered Notch http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427890&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Blog of Doom http://supaninjanick.wordpress.com/

slammed 68 · Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:50 pm Post subject:

not sure whats up with mine maybe just needs clean. i checked it has power to the solenoid, it clicks when i touch it with test light, points have power i can get them to fire like a machine gun if touched just right. but the clock wont run on its own. if i play with the gears a little when i have power and ground it will run the rewind points will make contact then wheel will move and they open up. but thats only if i apply a little pressure to the gears. any help or suggestions on what i should do next would be greatly appreciated. i would like to have it working

supaninja · Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:53 am Post subject:

Thats exactly how mine was, the "fuse" is popped out on yours. pop it back in and you should be good to go.
_________________
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/chucky1974/ninja.gif

Nick
Megasquirted Type 4 powered Notch http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427890&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Blog of Doom http://supaninjanick.wordpress.com/

Yeti69 · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the hints. I just repaired my 12V clock by just re-soldering the "thermo-fuse" - I assume this glob of low temp solder just corrodes away from the surface over the years. You don't even have to tear the mechanism apart, just pull the plastic cover and you can re-solder this spot. I also prepped and polished the chrome and the plastic screen, repainted the needles etc, look:
http://yeti69.blogspot.com/2011/04/multi-gauge-puzzle-armaturenpuzzle-part.html
_________________
1966 Fastback "The Volksback"
watch my Blog: http://yeti69.blogspot.com/
My Baja build Blog: http://volksstreaker.blogspot.de/

mmilliganclark2 · Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 10:43 am Post subject:

My clock came out of a 67 fasty. I removed the back cover and the workings look different than the ones in the pics. Can anyone explain to me where the thermo fuse would be on my model?
_________________
1967 Fasty


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> Type 3	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 Next
Page 2 of 4