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timmyE Samba Member

Joined: January 22, 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Chicago
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purplepeopleeater Samba Member

Joined: July 23, 2005 Posts: 596 Location: Kennewick, Washinton
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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Kinda o/t, but whats the deal with the fiberglass insulation?
I'm changing my bus back to a panel
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timmyE Samba Member

Joined: January 22, 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Is that wrong? The guy doing the work is putting it in. It was a camper conversion before he bought it but most of the interior was gone when he bought it. What does one usually put in for insulation?
Tim _________________ 1963 Custom Panel Conversion
http://busjunkie.wordpress.com/ |
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Birdmanhere Samba Member

Joined: June 03, 2006 Posts: 854 Location: CANADA EH
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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you should try dynamat or a similar insulation material in in.
That pink crap is just going to soak up water and moisture and cause it to rot from the inside out over time. _________________ 66 Bus, Camper
71 Bug 2276, DTM, IDAs
74 Thing |
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Birdmanhere Samba Member

Joined: June 03, 2006 Posts: 854 Location: CANADA EH
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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ohh and to your original question I think people have used a tarboard type material to seal off the vents, but not sure.. _________________ 66 Bus, Camper
71 Bug 2276, DTM, IDAs
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purplepeopleeater Samba Member

Joined: July 23, 2005 Posts: 596 Location: Kennewick, Washinton
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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| That was what I was going to mention (water issues) you'll be sorry. |
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timmyE Samba Member

Joined: January 22, 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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So . . . there is still a threat of water leaking in even if the vents are sealed?... I'm beginning to become concerned. _________________ 1963 Custom Panel Conversion
http://busjunkie.wordpress.com/ |
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KrisBalfe Samba Member

Joined: December 06, 2004 Posts: 396 Location: SLC
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Condensation... |
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purplepeopleeater Samba Member

Joined: July 23, 2005 Posts: 596 Location: Kennewick, Washinton
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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that would help with the vent area, you should be more worried about humidity inside the bus...that insulation is meant for an area that can breathe. and your bus cannot with that on it.
rip it out and stuff it in your attic no loss
Dynamat, is spendy....do some searching on the internet for auto insulation.
Some guys use that tar based roof patch kits that homedopt sells. I'm going to try some above the engine compartment in mine. |
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iveedubbin Samba Member

Joined: August 31, 2003 Posts: 593 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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This i the stuff I used for sound deadening in the SV2s club bus. Made a huge difference.
eDead _________________ SBS#57 |
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VWAdam Samba Member

Joined: February 14, 2002 Posts: 1869 Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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I have only had mine leak (innie vents) while in a very very hard rain, so bad that I had to pull over. _________________ "Knowledge speaks but wisdom listens."
-James Marshall Hendrix
I have a couple of Buses, a couple of Beetles and this strange car with a radiator; the badge says VW, however I have my doubts. |
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SCZ9-1-1 Samba Member

Joined: May 20, 2003 Posts: 246 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:43 am Post subject: |
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| i have camper conversion and the original insulation on mine was foam rubber. On the left side the vents were left open and blew fresh air into the cabinet that was behind the closet. On the right side there was a hole cut in the panelling where the vent is and it let fresh air in as well. I have panelling covering them and usually only get water coming in during a very hard hard rain while driving or when i point the hose in the direction of the vents when washing the van. The r13 fiberglass insulation is a bad bad bad idea. Definitely use dynamat to deaden the noise. |
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bill may Samba Member

Joined: August 27, 2003 Posts: 9911 Location: san diego,ca
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:32 am Post subject: |
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a walkthru panel does not have the upper vents. the non walkthru panels had a divider with a window to seperate the front from rear compartments. i would remove the vents and that pink fiberglass insulation. i also used e-dead in my panel on the roof. _________________ 1965 panel bus-Kermit
1958? DD panel-soon.need parts.
www.sv2s.com
OG Member of 1967 Posse.
"SO 42 puts the fun in functional" |
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slow36hp scott wimberley

Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 1640 Location: mukilteo washington
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:32 am Post subject: |
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| i have a set of vinyl magnets i use to cover mine. definately ditch the fiberglass. besides rotting the bus unless sealed (further rotting the bus) it creates a health hazard inside the vehicle. |
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wjr3 Samba Member

Joined: July 18, 2006 Posts: 25 Location: Erie, CO
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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Take a look at this link: http://www.aircooledtech.com/camper_interior/
I used the same insulation on my bus with very good luck. No moisture retention either. I used Tyvec material over the vents and do not get any leaking. I agree, I would loose the fiberglass insulation. _________________ '67 EZ Camper |
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cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 2267 Location: Sandpoint, ID
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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| slow36hp wrote: | | i have a set of vinyl magnets i use to cover mine. definately ditch the fiberglass. besides rotting the bus unless sealed (further rotting the bus) it creates a health hazard inside the vehicle. |
The fiberglass will only be a health hazard if it gets moldy or is being constantly disturbed somehow. If left alone, it is essentially inert. Whatever amount of formaldehyde was in it has outgassed by now. But it should be left to insulating house, not buses. _________________
| jeremy57ride wrote: |
Watercooleds at car shows are like ipods at the antiques roadshow.
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timmyE Samba Member

Joined: January 22, 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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Well.... I believe you guys made a good case, so out goes the pink stuff . . . the Dynamat is a bit pricey. I found some here the price is right, but it takes 4 to 7 days to ship and that doesn't fit my time line. The one I'm leaning towards is Fatmat, has anyone heard of this? it's 80 mils thick and my total cost would be just under $200.00 and it includes all the tools for installation.
My only concern with the airbubble insulation is how does that work on the floor underneath my z bed. will it "pop" under the weight? for example, was there not any insulation on the floor area of this picture? Also my wife is curious on the noise reduction capabilities of this material.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/camper_interior/interior_prep/insulation4.jpg
P.S. Thanks for the input to the original question.... even though saving me from future problems is also most appreciated.
Tim _________________ 1963 Custom Panel Conversion
http://busjunkie.wordpress.com/ |
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Birdmanhere Samba Member

Joined: June 03, 2006 Posts: 854 Location: CANADA EH
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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| timmyE wrote: | | The one I'm leaning towards is Fatmat, has anyone heard of this? it's 80 mils thick and my total cost would be just under $200.00 |
I have used both fatmat and dynamat in two different VWs
Used the dynamat in my bug and fat mat in my bus.
Both are essentially the same, I would go for the fatmat if I was to do it again, the price is right. _________________ 66 Bus, Camper
71 Bug 2276, DTM, IDAs
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