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KGCoupe
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2005
Posts: 3580
Location: Putting the "ill" and "annoy" in Illinois
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 Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:24 am Post subject: |
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| mcdonaldneal wrote: |
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Lastly, did a preliminary fit of the Blazecut I've had sitting around for 6 months. After a chat with my ex Air force fireman brother in law I have settled on Blazecut, AFFF (foam) extinguisher as a non corrosive second line, with a powder extinguisher as a last resort (all after nice, fresh fuel lines of course!)
Decided to mount the Blazecut using p-clips on the rain guard screws.
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The whole unit is quite stiff, so the free ends won't waggle the way it looks like they might, but I might secure the free end with a second p-clip. |
I've never heard of a system like that before, but after seeing your post and doing a quick search it seems like one of those should be on just about every Ghia owner's "Must Have" list.
Blazecut Fire Suppression System
Link
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mcdonaldneal
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2648
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:26 am Post subject: |
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| mcdonaldneal wrote: |
Hi KGcoupe, I'm sure your searching will have revealed that there is a lot of 'discussion' about the system, but on balance, I agree with you and live in the hope that it will never be needed, but if it ever was, it's cheap insurance to buy me a little time!
(Time to undo the seatbelts, and get out of the car with an extinguisher)!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565193&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 |
That's quite a thread, and I can't believe I read the whole five pages!
If you do have a severe or persistent fire, I can see where it would need help, but it sure would make a significant dent in the fire and give you valuable time. I expect it would put out most gas fires immediately. One thing missed in the other thread is that the Blazecut discharges much quicker and more violently than a regular extinguisher, which is a good thing. Electrical fires are harder to deal with, but at least it would put out the immediate flames and let you know something is wrong.
I only had one vehicle fire in my life and I hope I never have another. It started in my sound truck when I did an outdoor musical event that went long beyond it's scheduled time and they had no electricity. I started the vehicle up to recharge the batteries for the 2,000 watt audio system as finale performance started, but I also turned on the AC to cool things down on the 95 degree F day and left it running while we tore down and packed up. After leaving with my wife following in her van, she called to let me know that I had flames coming from underneath. Turns out the load on the system was too much and the alternator caught on fire. It would have burned for a while before I knew it... |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:33 am Post subject: |
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Well, I WAS going to cut my rear carpets for the heater vents after being inspired by someone else, but then my temporary heater cable repair reminded me that it was temporary, and let go last night. So I guess I'll have to do that tonight. I still drove the car today with only the passenger side heat working, despite being 9 degrees Fahrenheit. I was somewhat comfortable, but not nice and warm like I prefer 
Paul |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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My temporary heater cable repair finally let go, and I lost the driver's side heat again. It's March now, but it was still about 9 degrees F when the cable let go the second time. I had purchased replacement heater cables last year, but when I could not get the cable out of the tube, I postponed replacement by doing the repair instead.
This time, I knew I HAD to replace them, so I took out the passenger side seat, removed the parking brake boot and the heater control lever, and sprayed PB Blaster into the tube using the little plastic straw that come with the solvent. I sprayed from the inside and the underside, then worked the cable in and out (it only moved a few inches at first), then I was able to pull the broken cable out from the bottom. The passenger side was easy, and I was able to pull it out from the top. So what could stop me from pulling out the cable from the tube? Rust! The cable had rusted enough to give it a coarse surface, and the bottom few inches of tube had filled with rusty sediment and fossilized grease.
Most of the tube was clear except for those last few inches. I tried a drill bit turned in by my fingers (no room for a drill motor), but the sediment was past where the tube turned. "Ah ha" I thought... "Time for the old speedometer cable in the drill trick!". I got my original speedo cable and cut off the end, then shortened the housing by several inches. This worked in getting a passage though the sediment, but it was not big enough. The I saw the good passenger side cable laying on the floor, and cut off the last ten inches of the bottom, leaving the metal end intact. Then I hammered the metal end flat so that it resembled a small paddle bit for drilling wood. My drill motor has a fine jaw for tiny bits, and it was just right for holding the modified cable end. I gently worked it into the tube, spinning at a moderate speed, and it cleared the tube without much trouble. I also had to use it to clean out the little bit of sediment in the passenger side tube as well. I followed that with a blast of air from my compressor, and the tubes vomited the PB Blaster and softened grease out the other end. After this, both new cables fed from the inside fine, and I re-assembled the control lever and re-connected the heater boxes.
This job did reveal one problem I did not know I had, and that was the driver's side heater control flap was only opening to about 65%. I do not know if it was a problem with the control flap hanging up inside the heater box, or the cable itself was restricted. I had assumed the the driver's side heater box did not flow as well, as there was significant difference in the two sides. When I set both side to defrost, the driver's side was adequate, but the passenger side I could feel blowing on my face. However, after the cable broke and I used a pair of pliers to pull the cable to the open position manually, I noticed a drastic improvement in flow. So much as a matter of fact, that I had to close it because I was getting too much heat. Now with the tubes clear, new cables in place, and everything adjusted, I get the same amount of air flow from both sides, and the defroster vents blast air evenly now! Needless to say, I'm a very happy camper!
Paul |
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varagon
Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2013
Posts: 116
Location: SE Kansas
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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I've obviously got problems as I can't get air to "blast" into my passenger compartment, and no air into the defroster. I do know that the rear passenger side flap is just a rusted mess.
_________________
1973 Karmann Ghia Convertible |
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kiwighia68
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2013
Posts: 2874
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Altema wrote: |
| My temporary heater cable repair finally let go ... Needless to say, I'm a very happy camper! Paul |
Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I certainly learned from your post here. I don't need heat as much as you do - the temperature is about 26C here today - but I am in the process of restoring the heating system. Now I know I have to clean the cable tubes first, and how to do it.
_________________
Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015 |
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KGCoupe
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2005
Posts: 3580
Location: Putting the "ill" and "annoy" in Illinois
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| Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:30 am Post subject: |
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| Altema wrote: |
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This job did reveal one problem I did not know I had, and that was the driver's side heater control flap was only opening to about 65%. I do not know if it was a problem with the control flap hanging up inside the heater box, or the cable itself was restricted. I had assumed the the driver's side heater box did not flow as well, as there was significant difference in the two sides. When I set both side to defrost, the driver's side was adequate, but the passenger side I could feel blowing on my face. However, after the cable broke and I used a pair of pliers to pull the cable to the open position manually, I noticed a drastic improvement in flow. So much as a matter of fact, that I had to close it because I was getting too much heat. Now with the tubes clear, new cables in place, and everything adjusted, I get the same amount of air flow from both sides, and the defroster vents blast air evenly now! Needless to say, I'm a very happy camper!
Paul |
If I'm not mistaken, you have one of each of the two different style heat exchangers (one is "spiral", and I can't recall what the other style is called) - is that correct?
I recall you saying that one style gave heat more quickly, but the other style seemed to generate more heat once it got going.
Do you think those earlier observations were tainted by the fact that the flapper on one side was not opening fully? |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:43 am Post subject: |
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| kiwighia68 wrote: |
| Altema wrote: |
| My temporary heater cable repair finally let go ... Needless to say, I'm a very happy camper! Paul |
Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I certainly learned from your post here. I don't need heat as much as you do - the temperature is about 26C here today - but I am in the process of restoring the heating system. Now I know I have to clean the cable tubes first, and how to do it. |
Just be sure to be gentle using the drill motor with the cable end, as you do not want it to break off inside the tube! |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:55 am Post subject: |
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| KGCoupe wrote: |
| Altema wrote: |
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This job did reveal one problem I did not know I had, and that was the driver's side heater control flap was only opening to about 65%. I do not know if it was a problem with the control flap hanging up inside the heater box, or the cable itself was restricted. I had assumed the the driver's side heater box did not flow as well, as there was significant difference in the two sides. When I set both side to defrost, the driver's side was adequate, but the passenger side I could feel blowing on my face. However, after the cable broke and I used a pair of pliers to pull the cable to the open position manually, I noticed a drastic improvement in flow. So much as a matter of fact, that I had to close it because I was getting too much heat. Now with the tubes clear, new cables in place, and everything adjusted, I get the same amount of air flow from both sides, and the defroster vents blast air evenly now! Needless to say, I'm a very happy camper!
Paul |
If I'm not mistaken, you have one of each of the two different style heat exchangers (one is "spiral", and I can't recall what the other style is called) - is that correct?
I recall you saying that one style gave heat more quickly, but the other style seemed to generate more heat once it got going.
Do you think those earlier observations were tainted by the fact that the flapper on one side was not opening fully? |
You reacll correctly: I have an aftermarket heater box on the driver's side, with split metal discs welded inside in a spiral fashion. The passenger side heater box is an original factory box with heavy aluminium fins cast around the pipe.
The recent development certainly changed my impression that the aftermarket heater box on the driver's side flowed less. Air flow is pretty equal now, but it still seems that the aftermarket box heats up quicker. This would be logical because the lighter box has less thermal mass to heat up. I'll take a drive tomorrow with my thermal scanner and let you know.
Paul |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:20 am Post subject: |
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| varagon wrote: |
| I've obviously got problems as I can't get air to "blast" into my passenger compartment, and no air into the defroster. I do know that the rear passenger side flap is just a rusted mess. |
You just have to go though the system and make sure each part is doing it's job.
Ducting:
1. Supply pipes from shroud not leaking.
2. Connector through rear tin intact.
3. Connector to heater box is secure and not leaking.
4. Heater box outer shell is not rust perforated.
5. Flexible ducts from heater boxes to inlet ducts are secure on both ends, and are not cracked or split.
6. Inlet ducts leading into passenger compartment have no obstructions, and the acoustic wrap around the perforated section of duct under the rear seat is not missing or loose.
7. The heater channels are not rusted through or blocked by debris.
8. The defroster tube seals are in place and have not split or fallen off (these are rubber sleeves on the defroster tubes behind the dash).
9. The defroster vents are not full of debris.
Controls:
1. Heater box control flaps open and close properly without interference.
2. Heater box lever linkage levers are intact and operating (with retainer clips!)
3. Both cables are attached to the lever linkage, and have the full range of motion.
4. Control lever for the heater box flaps have sufficient tension to hold the flaps in the open position.
5. The floor vent flaps open and close properly. Open will send heat to front floor, closed sends heat to defroster. |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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| KGCoupe wrote: |
I recall you saying that one style gave heat more quickly, but the other style seemed to generate more heat once it got going.
Do you think those earlier observations were tainted by the fact that the flapper on one side was not opening fully? |
I went ahead and measured the vent temperatures last night, at idle, with the following results.
Aftermarket heater box output at front floor vent: 107 degrees F.
Stock heater box output at front floor vent: 93 degrees F.
The aftermarket spiral heater box did heat up more quickly as expected. However, I was surprised that it also stayed hotter than the stock box.
Those temperatures may not seem warm, but it was at idle when the heat output of the engine itself is less, and the bus blower was turned on which moves more air though the system, and that results in lower output temperatures. The car is still warmer than stock because a faint trickle of 140 degree air is less effective than a LOT of 107 degree air. On the freeway there is more heat from the engine, so the heater box output is hotter as well. The thing I like best (now) is that you have enough airflow to have heat coming out of every vent including some to the defrosters, and that eliminates the "Hot foot, cold nose" syndrome. I don't run the bus blower all the time, just when needed, like last night at the drive-through restaurant. Sitting in the cold with the window open, at idle, is usually a worst case scenario for AC VW's, but we stayed warm.
Paul |
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Woreign
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006
Posts: 2841
Location: Crestview FL
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:28 am Post subject: |
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I converted my ashtray into something useful. Take a look:
Now I can power my GPS, smartphone, and other accessories. And it's concealed when not in use. Stealthy! |
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kingkarmann
Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2003
Posts: 4111
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:41 am Post subject: |
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
_________________
"Depression is a malfunction of the instrument we use to determine reality.”
Mike Gerson
What is your "Bespoke Reality"? |
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kiwighia68
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2013
Posts: 2874
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:56 am Post subject: |
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I like the subtlety of it. Is this a "sleeper" ashtray then?
_________________
Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015 |
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KGCoupe
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2005
Posts: 3580
Location: Putting the "ill" and "annoy" in Illinois
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder if they make a USB powered cigarette lighter?
If nothing else, you could always plug your eCigarette charger in the USB port.  |
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yamtx
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2013
Posts: 23
Location: Florida
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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| KGCoupe wrote: |
I wonder if they make a USB powered cigarette lighter?
If nothing else, you could always plug your eCigarette charger in the USB port. |
Actually, they do make a USB powered e-cigarette that plugs into a USB port.
_________________
1969 Karmann Ghia |
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philermonic
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2010
Posts: 361
Location: Orange County, California
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Woreign wrote: |
I converted my ashtray into something useful. Take a look:
Now I can power my GPS, smartphone, and other accessories. And it's concealed when not in use. Stealthy! |
WAY cool!
_________________
"A camel is a horse designed by a Committee" |
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vwcomet
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2008
Posts: 42
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 4:49 pm Post subject: Replaced tires |
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I finally replaced my old Michelin XZXs. I ended up getting some Nexen tires. They are 165/80R15. I really procrastinated replacing the Michelins because they had lots of tread left. I decifered the date code and they came out to be made in late 1996, or possibly late 1986! It's tough to be difinitive because of the three digit date code used on older tires. In any case, the old tires started to show a little bit of sidewall cracking. If I only drove my car on city streets I would have kept them, but occasionally we take the highway and I didn't want to risk a tread separation at high speed.
I sucks that I won't have the iconic XZX treads on the Ghia anymore, but I couldn't justify the high cost of the Coker Tire reproductions. I have heard mixed reviews of the repops and decided to go with the Nexens. They ride and handle just fine, so far.
New Nexens
My old Michelin XZXs |
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Altema
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 2904
Location: Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:16 pm Post subject: Re: Replaced tires |
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| vwcomet wrote: |
| If I only drove my car on city streets I would have kept them, but occasionally we take the highway and I didn't want to risk a tread separation at high speed. |
We had plenty of tread on ours as well, and I lost the right rear tire during a 45 mph curve that I took at 70 mph. The tread separated but did not come off completely, and it would not hold air anymore.
| vwcomet wrote: |
| I sucks that I won't have the iconic XZX treads on the Ghia anymore, but I couldn't justify the high cost of the Coker Tire reproductions. I have heard mixed reviews of the repops and decided to go with the Nexens. They ride and handle just fine, so far. |
I miss that tread pattern because of the look, and because they were not affected by grooved pavement. I went with Zeetex 195/65R15's which are a summer performance tire with straight treads, and grooved pavement makes them wander. Of course they are awful in snow. Huge improvement in dry grip though... The problems I used to have with wheel hop on acceleration are gone, and it sticks so well in turns that I almost broke fingers trying to hang onto the steering wheel!
Paul |
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