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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:58 pm Post subject: My 1971 Bay Window Westie build thread-The wanderer- |
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i believe i`m making enough progress to start this, keep in mind i`m doing a build up not a resto. I`m a 26 year old with mortgage payments, 3 cars, a boat, and a girlfriend. My wallet leaks like a sieve. If i had the money
i would go resto as i feel "der-der" would have been a prime candidate, too bad she ended up with me! ha ha
so the deal is i`m giving my self around $40-80 a payday to dump into her.
i`ve named her the wanderer or der-der for short.
So here`s her story.
i picked her up for $1,200 with a great running engine,good tranny, what resembled a z-bed and some seats from a 198? dodge caravan and min. amounts of rust as well. i felt like i have gotten a pretty good deal thus far and i`m 3 weeks in, still haven`t seen better for the price. here is her first day.
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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the first thing i did was take the z-bed out, swept out the sun flower seeds and weird eye-ball drawings, and started with the insulation we used nothing more than the nasa/foil insulation as it get quite wet where i live and didn`t want to risk it with anything else,also i plan on going buck wild with the "great stuff" as i feel really anything that takes up dead space will reduce rattles/road noise.

Last edited by theizzardking on Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:33 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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next i took the tire carrier off the front and beat out a few of the larger dings and bondoed it a bit and sanded it down. then on to paint.
my prep work for my "paint job" was just to give her a nice washing,cut out a piece of cardboard for a spray shield and gave it a go, my rational behind this was i have quite a bit more body work to do before i`m ready to pay for a pro job, and as i drive down some pretty gnarly roads the paint would get screwed anyways. so to home depot and the rustolium isle i went.
i read somewhere else on here where somebody did this as well, note:gloss looks nicer he he (relatively speaking of course). so i rattle canned the roof and upper portion of the body and used rollers on the lower half. NOTE:dont be lazy and use whatever roller you have laying around, get one for steel so they don`t leave "texture" to your paint job. hahaha , may sand it back down roughly then go over it again, but then again maybe not.
so here is how this turned out.

Last edited by theizzardking on Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:35 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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| today i`m finishing off the pergo for the rear deck! will post photo`s when i`m done |
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Pierre G Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2007 Posts: 1329 Location: New Caledonia
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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Wow ! I didn't think you would do that first, considering the probably more urgent things you had to do on der-der. But, hey, it's your bus, so why not. I personally would have removed front headlights, turn signals, bumpers, etc...So easy to remove and your job would have been much cleaner. Unless you plan to change all exterior trim, seals,...with some new ones Do you plan some buffing to make that paint shine a bit more ? I really don't want to criticize, but maybe you should take your time and prepare things a little bit more. The result would be better and you'd enjoy it even more. Friendly remarks, not to blame.
Pierre _________________ 1976 181/Thing (daily driver), 1967 fastback (waiting for resto), 1973 squareback, 1964 microbus (waiting for resto), 1969 westfalia (currently under resto), 1972 westfalia, 1978 westfalia (under engine rebuild), 1972 LM1C dune buggy, 1974 jean's bug, 1974 1303 (super beetle, currently under reassembly after new paint) + 2 semi wrecks 181 (1971 and 1972)... |
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VDubTech Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2003 Posts: 5681 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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Seeing a lady dive into a project Bus of her own is awesome!! Next time around, do a little prep work and not only will your painting be much easier, the end product will be much nicer. Thing like the headlight trim rings have one phillips head screw in them. The turn signals have two. Less than 10 minutes there and they would have been off. Do yourself a favor, for your white parts, get some Rustoleum High Gloss White and do the upper metal, the top, and the bumpers. It'll look awesome.
What's up with your pop top? Looks a little jacked up when it's open. Is that up all the way? I've got two '71 tops here if you need any top parts like hinges or the uprights, just let me know. I've got a '71 Westy I'm parting but I'm on the other side of the country so anything but small parts is pretty much not an option. Anyway, Bus looks awesome, keep at it!! |
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iprangen Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2007 Posts: 261 Location: Centerport, NY
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Beautiful job! Just make sure the mechanical aspect is taken care of before you get too deep into the aesthetics. Even if you think the motor/trans are fine, have a pro check them out before you go anywhere and at least replace the FUEL LINES !!!
Happy camping!  |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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ha ha ! yea i was planning on replacing the turn sigs as they are cracked all to hell so much so i thought i had the cool euro clear ones. But in fact they are just broken , and as far as the head light rims go i figured i get some aircraft remover and buff them out 'n polish them up. hehe , Yeah, i do have to admit i got a little antsy, but she had been sitting there all ugly and nasty, couldn`t have her sitting in the drive way like that!
the main reason i bought the bus is, I have some friends coming to visit from the u.k for about a month or so and i had promised them the "All American Road Trip". We're doing from Seattle down the coast (the plan is to keep the ocean in the pass. window the whole way no matter what roads we have to take) to San Diego then back up through Yosemity, vegas, zion,arches,whatever the hells in ID, and finally back to catch dave matthwes
at the gorge in george,wa. I`ve done the trip once before, but that was in a broken down 76 monte carlo with no a/c and leather seats.
So this is in august, i have 1 month to make her road trip worthy, hence the build-up and not restro. I may come back from this 3,500+ mi trip
and take her down to her birthday suit and dress her up real nice.
It depends on which way the breeze blows me, I have work on my jeep and work on my boat that needs to be done as well and money and time is stretched thin.But then again i live in the WA,(washington) and only get to use the boat 2 or 3 times a year. Who know`s i`m loving working on this ol thing. I hope i`m not making you guys cringe to much.
hey perrier,
what do you mean more urgent work? only thing i can think of is a few small engine mods (i.e. cooling) and making sure all my tins and seals are in check, please elaborate. This will help me determine what i need to do later down the road and what i can do now, to get her in shape and not make life hard on my self later down the road.
Yea i do plan on giving her another paint to get the "texture" out of it and yea! good idea, can you "buff" rusto? how? it seems as if it`d just peel off.
hey thanks guys, please feel free to be kinda harsh on what i need to do,
and the way to go about it, just don`t be harsh on me, if that makes any sense, in other words all comments and suggestions are welcome just don`t be a dick about it. hehe
Vdub! about the top, i had just got her 10 mins before so i didn`t know how hard i could needed to push on those things to get them to lock, i`m still abit timid until i get to know her better, you know first few dates sort of deal!
the wifey is telling me dinner is getting cold gotta go, will upload pics of back deck tomorrow, it is completed (kind of) hahaha typical of me. |
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VDubTech Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2003 Posts: 5681 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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One thing I forgot to mention:
LAY OFF THE GREAT STUFF!!!!
Seems like a good idea--it isn't. It holds moisture and will actually cause your Bus to rust, not prevent it. |
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Pierre G Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2007 Posts: 1329 Location: New Caledonia
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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| theizzardking wrote: |
hey perrier,
what do you mean more urgent work? only thing i can think of is a few small engine mods (i.e. cooling) and making sure all my tins and seals are in check, please elaborate. This will help me determine what i need to do later down the road and what i can do now, to get her in shape and not make life hard on my self later down the road.
Yea i do plan on giving her another paint to get the "texture" out of it and yea! good idea, can you "buff" rusto? how? it seems as if it`d just peel off.
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My name's Pierre. Perrier is a well known french sparkling water . By more urgent, I mean mechanical stuff to make it more reliable, a car you can trust because you know you did the maintenance like : oil change (both engine and trans), adjust rear brakes (and check the thickness of brake shoes), change all fuel lines and fuel filter, check (visually) all cables (accelerator, clutch, e-brake), remove points and condenser and go for a pertronix or compu-fire, or at least check adjustement of points, check sparkplugs (and eventually change) and wires, check all wires connections in engine compartment. And as you're planning a long trip, lift it on a jack and check front wheel bearings, and also check play in all tie rod ends, ball joints, etc... I would also check all the electrical stuff, see if it works properly and check under the dash if all wires are properly connected and attached to prevent shorts. Oh, I almost forgot : grease front end and grease shifter too, and sliding door components. And on that long trip, bring spares like : alternator belt, acc. cable and clutch cable if they're not changed to new ones, points (if not converted to pertronix), oil, valve cover gaskets...
Well, finished dinner ? Thank wifey and go back to work on the bus...
Pierre _________________ 1976 181/Thing (daily driver), 1967 fastback (waiting for resto), 1973 squareback, 1964 microbus (waiting for resto), 1969 westfalia (currently under resto), 1972 westfalia, 1978 westfalia (under engine rebuild), 1972 LM1C dune buggy, 1974 jean's bug, 1974 1303 (super beetle, currently under reassembly after new paint) + 2 semi wrecks 181 (1971 and 1972)... |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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| VDubTech wrote: | One thing I forgot to mention:
LAY OFF THE GREAT STUFF!!!!
Seems like a good idea--it isn't. It holds moisture and will actually cause your Bus to rust, not prevent it. |
crap! hey is there a water proof great stuff available? it seems like they would for calking big gaps for home appliances.... should i pull out what`s in there or just leave it? i decided for the insulation i`m going to keep the silver stuff in there and put another layer on the interior panel to trap dead air, kind of like how a down jacket works, whudda think? der-der ha ha . |
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nightfallofdiamonds Samba Member

Joined: November 08, 2006 Posts: 60 Location: Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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| theizzardking wrote: | | VDubTech wrote: | One thing I forgot to mention:
LAY OFF THE GREAT STUFF!!!!
Seems like a good idea--it isn't. It holds moisture and will actually cause your Bus to rust, not prevent it. |
crap! hey is there a water proof great stuff available? it seems like they would for calking big gaps for home appliances.... should i pull out what`s in there or just leave it? i decided for the insulation i`m going to keep the silver stuff in there and put another layer on the interior panel to trap dead air, kind of like how a down jacket works, whudda think? der-der ha ha . |
I've never felt the need to foam-fill or insulate panels to mask the noise of the engine and drivetrain... I like hearing the hum of the powerplant. Nevertheless, here is a water resistant foam you might want to check out:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html
I wouldn't use any foam though, but whatever. As Vdubtech said, avoid using Great Stuff as filler, and remove what you've done to this point. I have a parts bus that is loaded with it in every cavity behind the bulkhead, which partially accounted for its demise. Other than absorbing moisture, it makes finding spotwelds to salvage panels a real PITA. Here's a good link for insulating your bus to retain heat:
http://www.shagadelic.org/VW/info/gmbulley-soundproof/heatdum.html _________________ 1958 Standard
1959 Single Cab
1968 Single Cab
1978 Transporter
1978 CE II Westfalia
WANTED: Sand Green Rear Apron
Soft Green Cargo Door Panels |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry about that one Pierre, i meant to spell check things, but the girl was breathing down me neck. Haha i`m trying to get the money together for a buyers inspection done @ the local shop @ $140, for nose to tail inspection pretty much. Too much? Let me know, it seems steep to me when no part for the bus really costs that much itself.But they are a recommended shop from some of the people i work withand I`m a firm believer in you get what you pay for. Not saying you shouldn`t do research first.
Also thanks for the short list of "spares" and basic long distance, cross country,road trip, prep work for a unknown seemingly stock motor.
I`m really having fun with this half arse project, I know it`s a hack job. I`m just taking note and doing what i know right now. There`s alot to look into here, and alot of money can stupidly be spent on needless things.
Plus sitting on here reading all of this really makes me want to just jump out there and do it,but i don`t know enough yet.As well as not much time to learn. This is where i`m really feeling pressed. Thanks to a few of you I`m starting to get my head around things.
I should just re-title the thread either, '71 rebuild of dummies or a dummie does a '71 rebuild ...stay tooned
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dcketh Samba Member

Joined: April 19, 2006 Posts: 299 Location: Ogden, Utah
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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| VDubTech wrote: | One thing I forgot to mention:
LAY OFF THE GREAT STUFF!!!!
Seems like a good idea--it isn't. It holds moisture and will actually cause your Bus to rust, not prevent it. |
No offense intended, but I've gotta call "BS" here. I've seen this in these forums many times before, and I believe it is probably true with open-cell latex foams, but Great Stuff is a closed-cell foam and is moisture resistant and also a vapor barrier. It does not attract moisture, but if there are any voids in your wall for water vapor to condense, then Great Stuff can probably trap it there. But so will any other insulation, to varying degrees. What you need to do, no matter what kind of insulation you use, is put a vapor barrier (sheet plastic) on the inner side of the insulation to prevent water vapor (from your breath, perspiration, etc.) from getting in there and condensing when it hits the cold outer wall. (This mostly happens in cooler weather). This is the proper way to insulate a house (vapor barrier to the warm side) and it should work just as well in a VW. |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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nightfallofdiamonds : thanks for that! great info i`ll give this a go! I still want to insulate as i do plan on some winter camping and in the pnw it can get pretty cold at elevation, so i feel heat retention needs to be fully addressed,
I also Pretty much refuse to use anything other than the foil insulation as this to absorbs water, i plan on being very wet and very muddy after 15-20miles circuits in the fall and winter. I won`t stand for ruining this thing anymore than it already is (rust wise, ruin in this case could be relative)
that`s really good info though! I liked this part the most,It made me feel like i was on the old 9600kb modem ha ha,
[quote]
Loading below is a big diagram of your heating system, and the way we fixed it. While it loads, lets look at the problems with the VW heating system (starting from the rear, where the heat starts, and moving forward):
[quote]
great info though man and keep it coming!
If the water proof stuff comes of as easy as the great stuff with a razor blade i have no problem fill`n her up with it, I`m not going to do something i`m not willing to fix later, i just don`t want to destroy her with rust and such. I figure at the very worst i`m just making alot of work for my self and waste a bit of money on pergo and plywood. Thanks man!

Last edited by theizzardking on Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| dcketh wrote: | | VDubTech wrote: | One thing I forgot to mention:
LAY OFF THE GREAT STUFF!!!!
Seems like a good idea--it isn't. It holds moisture and will actually cause your Bus to rust, not prevent it. |
No offense intended, but I've gotta call "BS" here. I've seen this in these forums many times before, and I believe it is probably true with open-cell latex foams, but Great Stuff is a closed-cell foam and is moisture resistant and also a vapor barrier. It does not attract moisture, but if there are any voids in your wall for water vapor to condense, then Great Stuff can probably trap it there. But so will any other insulation, to varying degrees. What you need to do, no matter what kind of insulation you use, is put a vapor barrier (sheet plastic) on the inner side of the insulation to prevent water vapor (from your breath, perspiration, etc.) from getting in there and condensing when it hits the cold outer wall. (This mostly happens in cooler weather). This is the proper way to insulate a house (vapor barrier to the warm side) and it should work just as well in a VW. |
hey, good call on this! irregardless of the foam i use a vapor barrier is a must! i`m going to check great stuff`s website and see what is said about it. |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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this is their spiel,
Expansion Characteristics
GREAT STUFF™ Gaps & Cracks vs. GREAT STUFF™ Big Gap Filler
low expansion, rigid foam
expansion characteristics, rigid foam
Differences Between Latex and Polyurethane Foam Sealant
There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF™ polyurethane foam sealant:
1. Latex foams are typically "open cell" and, as a result, can take on water. In fact, the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF™ is a closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer skin when cured.
2. Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF™ expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air sealant.
®™* Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company ("Dow") or an affiliated company of Dow
expands to take the shape of the cracks and voids to form a permanent, airtight, and water-resistant bond that eliminates unwanted airflow and helps reduce condensation. All GREAT STUFF™ products are polyurethane-based and offer superior performance advantages over latex products.
* Forms a permanent weather-tight seal to minimize drafts and insect infestation.
* Bonds to wood, drywall, metal, masonry, glass and most plastics.
* Interior or exterior use.
* Water-resistant.
* Tack free in six minutes. Trims in 30 minutes.
* Foam elasticity allows for movement/shifting within a structure from winter to summer.
* Paintable, stainable and sandable.
* Cures rigid.
* Yields same as 19 to 25 quart tubes of caulk.
* All-direction dispensing.
* UL Classified.
I just wonder what "water resistant" means to them.......... |
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Rubber Duck Samba Member

Joined: January 18, 2006 Posts: 461 Location: Pitt Meadows BC
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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| theizzardking wrote: | | I just wonder what "water resistant" means to them.......... |
Nice work izzardking You're doing the right thing...getting your bus roadworthy, enjoying her and then when you come back, you'd have a really good idea of the direction you're going to take.
Now about Great Stuff...I don't think its going hurt much in your case, as you're just prepping for this one big trip for now and you'll probably want to do it all again properly later, but the main thing about any of these expanding foam stuff is that they have the propensity to trap water between the foam and the cold metal.
The foam itself will probably not hold any metal, but against the cold outer wall of the bus, how sure are you that every single pocket is sealed up? You will have no way of knowing, that is, until rust bubble up from underneath and by the time you've seen it on the outside, it will be too late. I've seen buses like this in Vancouver...looked like someone took a machine gun to the sides!!
I'm not sure about the plastic vapour barrier either. After all, on the original bus, mine had just the wood panelling, lots of fibre insulation, and then cold hard steel of the exterior wall. No rust. _________________ ---------
Rubber Duck
1974 Westfalia |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:04 am Post subject: |
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anyone have any thoughts on the $140 dollar buyers inspection? too much?
| Quote: | | ve seen buses like this in Vancouver...looked like someone took a machine gun to the sides!! Shocked |
yea we have that here to esp. on jacked up pick-up trucks... they`re called rednecks. 
Last edited by theizzardking on Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:31 am; edited 1 time in total |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2046 Location: seattle
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Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:30 am Post subject: |
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oh and what are some of the most common engine mods, i`m trying to figure out what all has been done, i think they may have done the elec. ing. conversion already , and beyond that it`s all foreign to me, so what should i look for to see what has been done to it and where i need to go from here.
most common mods. |
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