Stumped on No Spark

[Air-Cooled Head]

Just a quick update:
I pulled the motor from the car and started it on my test stand. All my coils worked. My 009 w/ Pertronix didn't, but I suspect that's because we fried it when my buddy insisted I had it hooked up wrong.
(despite everything being labeled.) Swapped caps and rotors in the 009 w/ condenser and they all worked.
That confirms that my components are OK, and the problem lies within the ignition circuit in the car itself.

So I'll be getting/installing a new ignition switch electrical portion at the end of the month.

Thanks for all you guys' help.
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[ashman40]

This sounds like my problem. The ignition wiring from the ignition switch back to the coil may just be "old", causing some/much of the current to be lost. This was AFTER I had replaced the ignition switch (electricals).

There were only two solutions to my condition...
1) Rewire the main wiring harness to replace the old wires with new ones. This was probably the "best" solution

2) Place a relay in the engine compartment that was switched on/off by the ignition circuit. The Bosch-style 30A relay will work with as little as 7v. You will need to add a diode to the GEN light circuit to prevent (+) voltage from leaking back into the ignition circuit. This was the "cheap" solution
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AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[jayke]

I purchased a 1972 square that had extensive FI problems. Have changed to dual carbs and had to replace the steering column because the seller had destroyed it because he lost the ignition key. Now have voltage to coil in the on position and can start the engine jumping the starter at the test plug. It will not start using the key as there is no voltage at the coil in the start position. Where can I get the start voltage to the coil? Thanks for the help. Jay

[dubllyou]

This might get more attention if you start a new thread about your problem rather than posting in one that's four years old...

just a thought.
_________________
Two wrongs don't make a right...
three lefts do.

Wade

[jayke]

Thats a great idea Wade. I was wondering if anybody would be here after four years. How do I start a new thread that would get more attention? Jay

[dubllyou]

[Cadaver]

wow you hijacked that guys post.
please start your own post.
OP !
no spark.
i must presume that neans you checked spark from the coil tower ?
with a spark wire (known good) and a test spark plug (new) and known good?
yes.
then there is NO SPARK. that is the acid test.
if yes. it fails that
then its only 3 things

1: points or the pertronics are dead
2: coil bad
3: wiring to same bad

only 3 possible.

so how can you find out which of the 3 , it is.
that is easy.
you use a volt meter. 20vdc range, red lead at the + lug of the coil
PLus lug in GERMAN DIN is called #15
you key on, and its 12v ,(no 10 or 8v)
you crank and it holds at 11 or more.

now move the meter red lead to #1 DIN lug of coil or in gringo , MINUS.
Gringo = ASE/SAE spec.s

you then crank the motor.
the meter goes from 12v to 0v to 12v and repeats as you crank
no spark , is bad coil
if the meter is stuck, we need to use the ohmeter
measure the primary #1 to #15 on the coil, 1 side detached.
i remove the #1 green points wire
the coil primary will read 3 ohms. with a good quality meter.
cheaper meters will read off,
my meter has a zero cal feature that allows me to read down to .1 ohms accurately.

im tickling my points here. MSD makes huge spark , so you use a real
spark plug not this one.

http://ac-vw-remove.com/My_Videos/spark%20test/msd/test.html

http://ac-vw-remove.com/My_Videos/spark%20test/M2U00180.html

my electrics page, the coil tests are all there.
http://ac-vw-remove.com/At_Wits_End/electrics/index.html