Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Vacuum Can Discussion Thread
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
babarogue wrote:
I disassembled a "small" vac can, and a "big" one, so here are some pictures (I didn't want to overload this thread):
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5097445#5097445

I hope it could be of some use Very Happy

Please repost them in this topic so everything is in one place.


Sorry, I guess I did something wrong there, so the whole topic under the link does not exists Sad . I'll try once again here.

First, the way I use to open the canister. It may not be the best way, but it's not too difficult to do it this way.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next, the big canister. It has the number 095 stamped on it, it was taken from 111 905 205AA distributor.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The last picture shows the reason why it was not working properly. Actually it was capable to hold the vacuum for some 5 to 6 seconds.

Now the small one. It is taken from 113 905 209AL distributor. The nuber on the rod is 461.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It has a spring inside, lenght=25mm, thickness=1.5mm
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Please notice the size of the hole in the canister tube.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


For comparison:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The thickness of both diaphragms is 0.2 mm (as I was able to measur), The diameter of "095" diaphragm is 82mm and its cover diameter is 80.5mm. The "461" diaphragm has a diameter of 64mm and its cover has diameter 62.5mm.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the diaphragm material, they are both same, similar to those in fuel pumps, only thinner.
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A small update: the dimensions of the pull rods. First the big one.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It si interesting that the coutout near the diaphragm is 7 mm in size. This defines the total amount of movement of the rod. Converted to angular movement this turns out to be 20 degrees, which confuses me a bid, because the total amont of advance for 111 905 205AA should be 32 to 35 degrees.

Now the small pullrod, 461 dimensions.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here the size of the gap is about 2.5mm.

The "t=2mm" is the thickness of the rods. t=1.2mm in the upper picture is the thickness of the disk for the bigger one. The thickness of the disk of the smaller one is 0.8mm
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Now the small one. It is taken from 113 905 209AL distributor. The nuber on the rod is 461.


A little correction, the distributor is not with 209AL in the end, here are the data:
JFU 4 <--
Bosch nr 0 231 146 101
VW nr 113 905 205AL

The number on the rod is 461.

Please apologise.
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tasb
The Distributor Distributor


Joined: April 27, 2002
Posts: 6371
Location: Pentwater, Michigan
tasb is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent contribution to this thread Babarogue.

Thanks for moving it here Glenn.

you can certainly see why the steel line is so important and why the fumes from petrol will ruin the diaphrgam given time.

What does the canister look like when you are done?
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Danpa
Samba Member


Joined: August 21, 2007
Posts: 1253
Location: Valparaiso, in
Danpa is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:46 pm    Post subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=307450& Reply with quote

With all the different distributors that Vw had, are the main differences with advance/retard in the vacuum cans? Or are there a lot of differences with the distributor bodies and the centrifugal weights themselves?
If its mainly with the vacuum cans, I'm surprised nobody makes a adjustable can that you can dial in your advance or retard. Or is this already available?

Dan
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the charts in the various Bentley manuals you'll see there were differences in the centrifugal advances as well. Not huge differences but they were there. Some vacuum units were quite similar in characteristics as well.

There are no "dialable" units for stock distributors. Now, the distributors used from 1965-1970 DID have adjustable return springs for the vacuum advance - but the overall amount of advance for these was always a function of the canister, not the spring.

-Andy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Danpa
Samba Member


Joined: August 21, 2007
Posts: 1253
Location: Valparaiso, in
Danpa is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:16 pm    Post subject: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=307450& Reply with quote

Are the weights and springs on the centrifugal advance similar to a small block chevy?
With a sbc, you can change springs to change rpm when the advance "hits" or modify the weights for more or less advance.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never seen the inside of anything except VW distributors so am not able to answer that question. Sorry!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Glenn Premium Member
Mr. 010


Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76947
Location: Sneaking up behind you
Glenn is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Re: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=307450& Reply with quote

Danpa wrote:
Are the weights and springs on the centrifugal advance similar to a small block chevy?
With a sbc, you can change springs to change rpm when the advance "hits" or modify the weights for more or less advance.

They are totally different.

Changing the curve requires a lot of experience since there are no "kits" out there that will give you predictable results.

I restore the old cast iron models and have a bunch of hacked up parts I've removed from cores and had to replace with good used parts. I've tested a few as they came in and the modified curves make no sense to me.

It also helps to have one of these to see what your modification actually changed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Excellent contribution to this thread Babarogue.

Thanks for moving it here Glenn.

you can certainly see why the steel line is so important and why the fumes from petrol will ruin the diaphrgam given time.

What does the canister look like when you are done?


Thank you tasb, I hope someone can find this useful. As for the looks, I have to admit they don't look as good as new, but they are ok, no leaks at all. The big one I tested in the car, and it worked fine: 1200 ccm engine, 30pict3 carb, 111 905 205AA distributor, 7.5 deg ignition advance static. The small one I'll test sometimes later, with 113 905 205 AL distributor it originaly came from. Below are some photos. I believe somebody more careful and patient can do a better job here.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those not being distributors for US models, I've never seen either of them. However I do have some specs, and I thought the 111-AA distributor was supposed to be timed statically to TDC. Have you verified your total advance isn't too high?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Those not being distributors for US models, I've never seen either of them. However I do have some specs, and I thought the 111-AA distributor was supposed to be timed statically to TDC. Have you verified your total advance isn't too high?


No, sorry I haven't, I'll need a timing light and a scale. However I did some tests with 10, 7.5 and 0 degrees timing. It turns out that it idles very smooth and easy at 0 deg static, but it lacks power when driving (quite noticable). At 7.5 deg static it idles a bit faster with the engine warm, the power is quite satisfactory when driving. However it idles faster and "heavier" while the choke is on, compared to 0 deg timing. At 10 deg advance static personaly I was not able to feel increase in power when driving, so I got it back to 7.5 deg.

I run the replacement vacuum canister I bought couple of years ago (a used one), it has a starlike pattern on the back side and no number on the rod (the right one is the original for 111--AA, it has 095 stamped).
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Being curious about the dimensions, I have to say I found some differences between the both of them (as precise as I was able to measure). The notch near the diaphragm on the star-pattern one is about 6 mm unlike 7 mm on the 095. Also, the distance from the diaphragm disc and the hole where the rod attaches to the breaker plate is 51 mm, unlike 52.5 mm for 095. Considering that the metal the canisters are made of is about 0.8 to 1 mm thick, it turns out that the total amount of movement of the rod is 5mm and 6 mm for the "starlike" and the 095 canister, respactively. Converted to degrees at the carnkshaft pulley it is about 28.6 deg of advance produced by the "starlike" canister. For the 095 canister it is 34.4 degrees. Following this logic I completely agree with glutamodo that the 111 905 205AA distributor should be timed at TDC. This also complies with the data given here: http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#A6667. Now I see I did something wrong when assembling the 095 canister Smile. The other thing is that if the max advance is up to 35 deg BTDC for my engine (D letter code, 1.2 l), it turns out that when using the "star-pattern" canister (28 deg advance) , I need to time the distributor at 7.5 deg BTDC static in order to achieve the 35 deg at 3800 rpm (7.5 + 28.6 = 36.1). Indeed, when the distributor is timed at 7.5 deg static, I get the "usual" engine power (the "amazing" 34 hp@3600 rpm Smile ) and quite satisfactory transitions when accelerating. However the idle is a bit higher (according to some specs it should be 750 to 900rpm), especialy when the choke is on. As for some specs and data I find the link below useful (it's in german):
http://www.vw-classicparts.de/repleitfaden_typ1_85/repleitfaden_typ1_85_seiten_9_78.pdf
also more general
http://www.vw-classicparts.de/

BTW, a bit of the topic here so I will be very short: the distributor drive slot is not perpendicular to the case split line when the pulley is at TDC, it's perpendicular at 10 deg BTDC.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the star pattern, from discussion earlier in this thread that would likely be a 07017/1237121210 canister, and I've only ever seen one of those with the arm marked on it and that is timed to TDC. I'd posted that photo but I guess it was in a different thread. Several distributors used that vacuum canister (not yours though) and it was a Type 3 distributor on which I found such a canister marked 210:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The big problem with that OldVolksHome site is all those "can use" listings - making it seem all the parts on those distributors are totally interchangable. In many cases they may be, or they may fit, but they may not be quite correct when you do so.

That online VW manual - yeah, I've seen it and referred to it more than once. It's more of the technical bulletins that have been of interest to me, the ones that list the specific carbs and the specific distributors matched to them. For years I've been seeking those out and been doing charts based on what they say. There's a handful up to the late 60s archvied on TheSamba, some of those I had copies of myself at one point. Recently I got a huge boost in this regard from a bunch of early 70s tech bulletins I found online, plus I gained a collaborator from Australia who has tons of these in hard copy. I just put up the latest version of the DOC file with all this data:

http://members.trainorders.com/android/temp/CarbBaseFlangeNumbersA.doc

At the bottom of that document, I ask if anyone knows of more sources to let me know - to this day, no one has. I've had to dig all that info up myself. Then many months ago, I discovered Andrew P had some such info after doing some internet searching, and contacted him. I thought he might just scan some of his documents and let me figure what data was useful, but he went several steps further by filling in many of the question marks and blanks on my chart. Then just recently I found this archive of German-language tech bulletins totally by luck - I was Googling a distributor number and got a match for a base-flange number I'd never seen before in the process. Much of the data that Andrew had added was listed there too, plus several more entries I'd never seen before, which I plugged in what I could, and then he went and filled in some of the blanks. He says he's got even more non-US data to add as well, eventually.


What 30PICT-3 do you have? According to the info I've got, as soon on that chart, the VW1200s with a 30PICT-3 and BEFORE they switched to SVDA (1971-late 74) with the 111-AA distributor had the base-flange numbers in the VW283 VW284 and VW320 series. It was because of that info that I added the distributor numbers to this chart:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The slot in that drive gear - typical. They are never exactly perpendicular like the manuals show. Well, they are at one point as you drop them in place, but.. the spiral shape of the gearing makes it so that once it engages it is a little bit off.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What 30PICT-3 do you have?


It's VW320-3 on the base flange. The car was purchased June 1973, which means (I think) 1972 model year. The engine number is D1061760.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The main jet is x112.5; air correction jet 170z (not 170w as in the doc table); idle jet g55; aux fuel jet g40; Oilbath air filter with 50 mm prewarm tube, flap regulated wia bowden cable connected to the thermostat. According to the info in the doc table it is European 1200 from eng D0675001, and from the small table, the timing should be at TDC.
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
herbie1200
Samba Member


Joined: April 27, 2006
Posts: 833
Location: Rome - Italy
herbie1200 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do not mix the big and the small canister, the carb and the behaviour are very different.

The big canister is for vacuum only advance, so the advance has to increase with speed. If you look at a 30pict3 carb for this kind of advance, you can notice a small brass tube between the starter valve and the throttle valve.

The small canister is for vacuum+centrifugal advance; if you look at the same carburetor but in the SVDA configuration, the brass tube I told before is not present. The behaviour is different at all! In this configuration, the canister is only to achieve some additional advance when the gas pedal is partialized, and its function is a sort of 'on-off'. The rest of the advance is obtained by the centrifugal masses.

So, the small canister, is:
- off at idle
- on only with gas pedal slightly depressed
- off at 40% and over throttle opening

Don't mess with a wrong mix carb-canister!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Harris
Samba Member


Joined: June 11, 2004
Posts: 1317
Location: Texas
Harris is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:32 am    Post subject: Vacuum Canister Reply with quote

tasb,
Quote:
Vac can # 015 used on the big cap 40 hp cast iron distributors ZV PAU 4R: 2,4,5,6. Large can with two mounting holes on the left side of the can. Mates to the 28 PICT and 28 PICT 1 carburetors. 40 hp.


I've got 2 screws on the left and one on the right, but my line comes out at the 9 O'Clock postiion that Everett mentioned.

Everett
"I've looked at quite a few big cap distributors and none have a vacuum can where the vacuum connection comes out at 9'oclock like that"

They are all like your other photo where it comes out more like 10:30:


Do I have the wrong canister on here?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
glutamodo Premium Member
The Android


Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
glutamodo is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

herbie1200 wrote:


Don't mess with a wrong mix carb-canister!


And that's a big reason I've been assembling that large chart of modification state (base flange) numbers - all 30PICT-3s on 1200 after June 1974 were set up for SVDA and I think I have most of them listed now.

-Andy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
fassed
Samba Member


Joined: October 31, 2008
Posts: 141
Location: Ontario,Canada
fassed is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 3:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Vacuum Canister Reply with quote

Harris wrote:
tasb,
Quote:
Vac can # 015 used on the big cap 40 hp cast iron distributors ZV PAU 4R: 2,4,5,6. Large can with two mounting holes on the left side of the can. Mates to the 28 PICT and 28 PICT 1 carburetors. 40 hp.


I've got 2 screws on the left and one on the right, but my line comes out at the 9 O'Clock postiion that Everett mentioned.

Everett
"I've looked at quite a few big cap distributors and none have a vacuum can where the vacuum connection comes out at 9'oclock like that"

They are all like your other photo where it comes out more like 10:30:


Do I have the wrong canister on here?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I am wondering the same thing.Mine looks the same as yours.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
babarogue
Samba Member


Joined: March 20, 2009
Posts: 23
Location: SE Europe
babarogue is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

herbie1200 wrote:
Do not mix the big and the small canister, the carb and the behaviour are very different.

The big canister is for vacuum only advance, so the advance has to increase with speed. If you look at a 30pict3 carb for this kind of advance, you can notice a small brass tube between the starter valve and the throttle valve.

The small canister is for vacuum+centrifugal advance; if you look at the same carburetor but in the SVDA configuration, the brass tube I told before is not present. The behaviour is different at all! In this configuration, the canister is only to achieve some additional advance when the gas pedal is partialized, and its function is a sort of 'on-off'. The rest of the advance is obtained by the centrifugal masses.

So, the small canister, is:
- off at idle
- on only with gas pedal slightly depressed
- off at 40% and over throttle opening

Don't mess with a wrong mix carb-canister!


No, I will not mix them. The small one is from an SVDA distributor (a used one) I've bought some time ago. I believe that it will be very difficult to mount a small vac can on a 111 905 205AA distributor because of the following reasons:
1. From the pictures I've posted previously, there is a difference in the lenght of the diaphragm rods, the "095" rod is 52.5 mm, and the "461" rod is 42.5. It's 10 mm of difference, and I believe it would not be possible to mount it. Even if it's possible, 10 mm of displacement of the rod will cause about 57 degrees of advance on the pulley, and I don't think the pistons will be able to last very long that way. Laughing
2. The notch near the diaphragm is 7 mm for "095", and 2.5 mm for "461", so there will be almost no advance for the vacuum only distributor,
3. The mounting holes on the canister bracket are on different places relative to the diaphragm rod, so this is another reason why it wouldn't be possible to mix the canisters.
As for the vacuum advance channels in the 30pict3 vw320-3 carb, there are two openings, the lower one is near the trottle plate and it's load sensitive (for ex. climbing a hill, low rpm), the upper one near the discharge arm is speed sensitive (as when coasting at 100km/h, high rpm).
An yes, you are right, there are 30pict3 carbs intended to run with SVDA disributors, they do not have the upper orifice, the one near the discharge arm. I even have one such carb, the flange mod number begins with VW4... (sorry, I don't remeber the whole number by heart). It was intended to be run with paper element air filter (I bought it mounted on the paper air filter). Anyway, thank you very much for the advice, it got me thinking about what I've written. Thanks again.
_________________
An optimist is a pessimist without any experience.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - 1958-1967 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Page 3 of 6

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.