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Steering wheel removal - tutorial (1971 bus)
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Anchovy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:08 pm    Post subject: Steering wheel removal - tutorial (1971 bus) Reply with quote

I read through the forums and picked up some good ideas in a few threads. I consolidated them here into a short tutorial. I used the "flat washer" puller techniques discussed by BusDaddy. Here is how I did it:

Use a thin tipped screw driver to carefully pry up the horn button:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Unplug the ground wire from the horn button assembly and stuff it in the steering column shaft:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Unscrew the horn button assembly. Careful not to lose the three springs under the screws:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Loosen the 27mm nut with a deep well socket or a use a short extension to get your ratchet above the wheel perimeter. Break the nut loose by using the steering wheel cross-arm as leverage. Do not loosen the wheel by twisting against the steering wheel lock:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Remove the turn signal assembly but leave all wires in place:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cut a slot in two large washers 3 1/2" OD by 1 5/8 ID. Place washers under the wheel so that the slots do not line up. The top washer should contact the heads of the screws which hold the turn signal cancellation tab which is mounted to the underside of the wheel. One washer would probably do the trick if you align the slot properly and make sure you press against the cancellation screws:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Place your Harbor Freight purchased 8" three arm gear puller on the washers with the center screw aligned over the steering column shaft being careful to not crush the ground wire terminal. Tighten the puller until the wheel pops loose:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Remove the turn signal tab to install on the new wheel:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Install the turn signal tab on the bottom of the new wheel. Place the wheel on the steering shaft making sure that the front wheels are straight and the steering wheel is properly oriented. Install the 27mm nut. Install the horn button assembly. Connect the grounding wire terminal. Install the horn button. Done. Here is my newly restored Koch wheel installed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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calebmelvin
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice writeup! Shocked
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Rubber Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent writeup!! Very Happy

I suggest that everyone who has a technique to share do the same and especially name the end of the title "-Tutorial". This was newbies can easily find them on a search.

Maybe we could even have a sticky entitled: DIY Articles or something similar - I know, we have helpful threads- but perhaps something along these lines maybe? Like a repair Wiki? Razz
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!

That should help out a lot of people. And also save a lot of steering wheels. Very Happy
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RobWeidman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I loved the writeup and could have used it this past weekend. Seems that just enough time passes by between removals that I always forget the proper orientation of the turn signal tab and end up having to pull the wheel a second time.

One minor addition that I thought of was when collecting the three springs, there are also very small internal tooth lock washers sitting in the indents that the springs sit on If you fail to secure these washers they will disappear as soon as the wheel is removed and flipped over. I typically use a magnet of some sort to retrieve the washers and a less powerful magnetized screwdriver tip to reposition them when reassembling.

Great job!
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itlives
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All those cracks in the steering wheel are usually from someone trying to take off the horn button from the silver ring up (ask me how I know!).

This pic is the best one of the bunch as it shows how the black button comes off with out cracking the wheel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Good job!
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Agave58
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Anchovy!! Your post will save me a lot of hassles when I remove my steering wheel! Applause
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Herbst '71
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OUTSTANDING! This will save others from destroying the sides of the steering wheel around the horn button. I spent a lot of time trying to pry off the silver ring before discovering the black button is what is supposed to pop off. Live and learn. Now thanks to Anchovy others can search, read, learn and save themselves from breaking things.
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Anchovy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

itlives wrote:
All those cracks in the steering wheel are usually from someone trying to take off the horn button from the silver ring up (ask me how I know!).

This pic is the best one of the bunch as it shows how the black button comes off with out cracking the wheel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Good job!


Thanks guys, I am glad you think the thread is useful.

Another tip: If the horn button is tight in the assembly, use a loose dull utility knife blade to get it started. The thin edge of the blade should wedge under the button easily.
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice write up. there are two things i would add:
-if you are simply removing the steering wheel to do other things, and will be reinstalling the same wheel, use a marker or paint pen on the shaft and the wheel to mark the orientation of the wheel, so you do not have to guess where it was when you removed it.
-i don't think it is totally necessary to remove the horn button metal contact to remove the steering wheel nut. i guess that would ultimately depend on what socket you are using, but i know i do not remove the metal piece when i remove a steering wheel. this helps keep the metal ring in the same place, and then there will also be less loose parts floating around later--ask me how i know. ever lose one of those springs?
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Anchovy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
...there are two things i would add:
-if you....will be reinstalling the same wheel, use a marker or paint pen on the shaft and the wheel to mark the orientation of the wheel, so you do not have to guess where it was when you removed it.

-i don't think it is totally necessary to remove the horn button metal contact to remove the steering wheel nut. .....


Good points. In my case I used a NAPA purchased 27mm, 12? point socket and it was too large to fit in the horn button metal contact. I could have ground the edge of the socket to make it fit but that was obviously more work than unscrewing the assembly.
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Orangeena
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anchovy,

This is really useful. As you can see from my picture, my steering wheel has been put on wonky by some PO, so I will be busy following your instructions when I get back from my holidays.
I am an inveterate picture straightener, so having a whonky wheel aggravates the heck out of me.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cheers
Max
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Anchovy
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orangeena wrote:
Anchovy,

This is really useful. As you can see from my picture, my steering wheel has been put on wonky by some PO, so I will be busy following your instructions when I get back from my holidays.
I am an inveterate picture straightener, so having a whonky wheel aggravates the heck out of me.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cheers
Max


Hey Max,

I am also a habitual picture straightener. My newly installed wheel is a spline or two off so this weekend I will be setting it straight.

Be sure to check the steering system under the bus. You may have other issues that have your wheel askew. Also, while you are at it you should put the wheel on the correct side of the bus. Wink

Jeff
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, with the wheel off is now the opportunity to put it back on correctly. Get underneath and make sure the steering box is correctly centered. Then put the steering wheel on level. When you then drive it with the wheel level if the bus doesn't go straight forward (it probably won't) get underneath again and correctly adjust the drag link. Since it isn't wise to work on a bus without a Bentley manual be sure you refer to one. You might even need to see if the tie rods are correct. Don't readjust the steering wheel until after you have the steering correct.
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Orangeena
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anchovy wrote:

Hey Max,

I am also a habitual picture straightener. My newly installed wheel is a spline or two off so this weekend I will be setting it straight.

Be sure to check the steering system under the bus. You may have other issues that have your wheel askew. Also, while you are at it you should put the wheel on the correct side of the bus. Wink

Jeff


Jeff,

Nah, then the missus would have to steer while I did the pedals!

Seriously though, what do you think might be wrong underneath that could cause the skewed wheel? I have taken a few pics of the underside.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No laughing at what a british bus looks like underneath. They use salt here in the winter.

Cheers
Max
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

steering wheels are not the only thing that cracks when removing the horn button- the horn button can chip too. i always use my fingernails to remove- but if its tough, then i get started with woodworking chiesel-a tool with many uses on the bus.
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superman73
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used this trick today and it worked great, the wheel popped right off no damage. thanks dude. i even found the washers at the local hardware store.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tremendous! Thanks for taking time out to write-up the tutorial...
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What did you use to cut the washers?

What is the distance between the two cuts?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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