Cant depress clutch, what did I do wrong?

[Therealkoop]

The story is that I switched to an earlier style bug IRS transmission that has been clearanced for a 200mm flywheel. I bought a new clutch plate and pressure plate to match the new transmission.

After installing, its basically impossible to depress the clutch lever arm on the trans. I use a cheapo clutch cable shortening kit which did not have problems with the other trans, but when manhandling the clutch pedal, the pedal simply forces the cable through the locked shortening kit.

I took it apart to check if the plate was installed backwards, and to clean up the splines if needed. After installation I found no change to the behavior.

Any ideas? Im thinking I have some incorrect or incompatible parts but I have no idea.

[Cusser]

Pressure plate with center ring is a match for your transmission/release lever.

Before you installed the engine, did you back off the adjustment of the wingnut essentially all the way? That's what I do if I change out clutch disc or pressure plate or flywheel. Then I adjust the clutch cable after the installation of the engine.

Got a picture of this cable shortener? Do you have a shortened buggy or rail?
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Therealkoop]

I had the clutch cable disconnected entirely and started from scratch with the adjustment.

It is in a sand rail, the shortener I am using is this thing. http://www.ebuggies.com/Cable-Shortening-Kit-Clutc...gIPJPD_BwE

Worst case, I can put in the trans/clutch/plate I was using. I only switched because I thought I might appreciate the gearing. The trans Im using is supposedly 4.12, the prior was 3.88.

I suppose its also possible the new plate just requires much much more force than the other one I used. I have no frame of reference.

[FeelthySanchez]

The new PP shown above is a diaphragm type, which can feel very stiff @ the pedal: if the old PP was a conventional 9-coil spring type, this could easily explain the extra effort you're feeling.
I tried a diaphragm PP once, long ago & quickly found that it was more of a firm "switch" than gradual clutch engagement - so never again for me.

[Danwvw]

What year is the IRS Transaxle? You have a 1970 and earlier diaphragm!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[SRP1]

You have a defective pressure plate. The diaphram pressure plates are great, and very easy to depress when all is correct, but a super stiff pedal is one of the symptoms when they go bad. Just get another pressure plate and be careful not to overcompress it.
Oh BTW polish that input shaft, the bearing in the gland nut wont last 5 minutes with that rusty shaft riding on it.

[VW_Jimbo]

I have seen a few clutch disc installed backwards. Might be worth a look.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Therealkoop]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I did check the clutch plate just to be sure, it was installed correctly.

I took Sanchez' advice on the extra force and added some cable clamps to my clutch cable. The clutch WILL depress, it just takes more force than the cable setup could handle, and more than I was used to applying.

Its setup and appears to be working well right now. After a couple dozen cycles it seems to have broken in a bit as well. Simple answer, but a lot of work for me to verify.