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69doublecab Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2004 Posts: 2549 Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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I think the first time I ever needed a 12 point was in 1994 when I was mostly driving Vanagons. I had to buy it from Mac tools.
I certainly changed CV joints on 69,70, 71, 72, 73, 78 before then and don't remember needing a special wrench. I just used a good sharp 6mm hex key.
I'll check later, I have the original 1968 dated cv's from my 69 double cab in storage. I'll check on them.
BTW, they are kinda strange- they have INSIDE dust covers. Tin covers on the flange side. Ever see them?
Al _________________ Al Brase
1971 Dormobile
November 1955 (Wolfsburg) pickup WANT TO BUY ORIGINAL 15" BUS RIMS dated 2/55, 3/55, or 8/55, 9/55 or 10/55, OR ANY dated 1955- I'M DESPERATE!
69 doublecab (sold it!)
Vanagons |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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ok so heres an update. the 2 hour job it was, turned into a 5 hour one, when my help arrived 2 hours late, 3 bolts stripped, and vw store closed, and now i cant get the joints off the axle. i can dissesemble it and get the balls out but not the hub. help please. thanks. _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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EZ Gruv King of Plaid

Joined: December 10, 2002 Posts: 7567 Location: Las Vegas
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Dogman Samba Member

Joined: July 11, 2008 Posts: 109 Location: Boise, ID
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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It took me a lot longer than 2 hours
Grab the stripped bolt with a pair of vicegrips - the one I stripped came out easily like that. I was extremely careful and I still stripped one. _________________ '73 Riviera | 1700cc | Dual Dellorto 34b FRD | 009 |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 19913
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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| 69doublecab wrote: | I think the first time I ever needed a 12 point was in 1994 when I was mostly driving Vanagons. I had to buy it from Mac tools.
I certainly changed CV joints on 69,70, 71, 72, 73, 78 before then and don't remember needing a special wrench. I just used a good sharp 6mm hex key.
I'll check later, I have the original 1968 dated cv's from my 69 double cab in storage. I'll check on them.
BTW, they are kinda strange- they have INSIDE dust covers. Tin covers on the flange side. Ever see them?
Al |
My 73 Thing had 12 points when new so they have been around for a long while. It seems to me that the replacement boots usually came with 6 sided socket head bolts for many years after VW was using 12 point on new stuff. It used to be quite a search to find a 12 point when you needed a replacement. |
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baywndwjunkie Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2007 Posts: 338 Location: El Dorado Hills, Ca
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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my hats off to you..Ithat is one job I would definately leave to a mechanic ..as a matter of fact..I leave most of the work on my bus to my mechanic  _________________ \m/ (^_^) \m/
1977 Chrome Yellow Westy aka "Charlie Brown" |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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yes i was using the incorrect tool, some of the bolts were 12 and others were six.
i did manage to get the cv joints disconnected from the trans and the wheel. i went and got replacement bolts and the correct tool to put them back on.
i never knew there was so much grease!
anyways. ive got the driveshaft off and the boots disconnected from the joints, but i cannot get the joints off. i took the balls out of one of them, but the center still does not come off. i need to get both of them off, clean up the axle and the joints, then reassemble with new boots and 1 new joint. also, the muir book says they are torqued to 25 ft/lbs, but my smallest torque wrench only does 50 at the least. is there anyway to tell when ive hit the 25 ft./lbs mark when im bolting them back on tomorrow?
and should i clean the grease out of the tranny where the cv joint was bolted in.
im needing to get this done by 4 tomorrow so any help would be appreciated.
sorry about all those questions but im a bit stuck on some of these. thanks for your help so far guys and ill let you know how it goes tomorrow.  _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 19913
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 5:54 am Post subject: |
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| You either need to use a puller to remove the inner race or hang the whole axle assembly loosely in a vice and drive the axle out of the inner race with a drift and large hammer. Actually anything you can use to support the inner race while you drive out the axle will do, it need not be a vice. Be inventive. |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 29743 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 6:01 am Post subject: |
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I use a 2 prong gear puller as described here to get them apart.
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm
I also use the "CV joint rebuild kits" that cost about $10 to do them since it includes new bolts and boots.
Most everything on a VW is torqued to less than 30 foot pounds, so you want a torque wrench that will be able to do those. |
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Dogman Samba Member

Joined: July 11, 2008 Posts: 109 Location: Boise, ID
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:37 am Post subject: |
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Did you remove the circlips? _________________ '73 Riviera | 1700cc | Dual Dellorto 34b FRD | 009 |
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69doublecab Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2004 Posts: 2549 Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 9:18 am Post subject: |
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Actually, if just cleaning and replacing the boots, you only need to remove ONE CV joint from the axle. You can then pull of the boot, then pull the other boot clear down the axle and off the other side. Installation is the reverse .
Unless this is an automatic transmission vehicle, you might gain additional CV life by reversing the position of the shafts, IOW put the left axle on the right and the right axle on the left. This will put the drive pressure on different places in the inner and outer races and even out the wear. With proper lube, these are pretty durable parts.
Al _________________ Al Brase
1971 Dormobile
November 1955 (Wolfsburg) pickup WANT TO BUY ORIGINAL 15" BUS RIMS dated 2/55, 3/55, or 8/55, 9/55 or 10/55, OR ANY dated 1955- I'M DESPERATE!
69 doublecab (sold it!)
Vanagons |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:18 am Post subject: |
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my dad said he removed the circlips, but it was hard to see in the dark with all the grease on it still. so im going to clean it up and see whats going on right there. i dont want to damage them, even if i am only replacing one. _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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borninabus Samba R&D Dept.

Joined: May 18, 2006 Posts: 2694 Location: Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Dogman wrote: | | Did you remove the circlips? |
yeah, been there.
use a brass drift to drive off inner race. i've even used a socket extension.
don't lose (or replace if missing) your pan washers on the inside. they hold the race from moving back and forth. that's probably why your races won't come off. _________________ '71 - 1600DP, C/W - 32NDIX - o19
Air Cooleds Only
BAY PRIDE |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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yea it seems like its mushroomed on either end of the race. so im guessing that comes off? cause that would make sense haha. _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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ok so its the end of DAY 2 of me trying to replace my cv joints.
so today, i managed to get both cv joints off the drive shaft, disassembled, and cleaned. packed the new joint and one old joint full of grease and then put the joints and boots (also full of grease) onto the then clean driveshaft. got my ratchet and went under the car only to find that the new joint wont move at all, causing me to curse very loudly and get a stern lecture from my father. so now instead of being the 2 hour job ive read about, its turning into a 3 day nightmare.
so heres what im wondering. the joint that i took apart and cleaned and put back together moves and allows me to bend it into the position to bolt it back in, but the new one wont budge. on ratwell's site it says that it is perfectly normal for new ones to be super tight, but perhaps there something wrong with the new joint.
any advice is welcome, seeing how i am going to be taking it apart on tuesday and recleaning and regreasing everything. so if anyone has any suggestions on how to bolt them in before i take them apart again, i'd be very grateful.  _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 19913
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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Your new one may be put together wrong. If the inner race and outer race are not clocked right they will seize the joint and you will not be able to be bent it or slid it in and out. Look at the ends of your joints carefully, the large space between the balls on the outer race should align with the small space between the balls on the inner race. If large space aligns with large space it will be locked in place.
There are insides and outsides to the races as well. The joint will not bend 100% normally if the inner race is not positioned correctly. |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: | Your new one may be put together wrong. If the inner race and outer race are not clocked right they will seize the joint and you will not be able to be bent it or slid it in and out. Look at the ends of your joints carefully, the large space between the balls on the outer race should align with the small space between the balls on the inner race. If large space aligns with large space it will be locked in place.
There are insides and outsides to the races as well. The joint will not bend 100% normally if the inner race is not positioned correctly. |
i would guess that too, but i bought it assembled about 6 months ago when i was told to do it
it did seem to have some kind of amber crap dried onto it, maybe some varnish or something. it was all dried on tho. could that be part of the problem? _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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Desertbusman Samba Member

Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 13061 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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When are you going to finally get your Bentley manual? Or do you like beating your head against the wall? For instance how will you know that you should throw the conical washers in the trash? Contrary to other advice, they shouldn't be used. Not that the manual makes the job nice and fun but it will help you with this one and everything else (haha). Actually, the CV joint job was designed with a specific purpose in mind. It is an initiation and a rite of passage. Once you get beyond this one properly you are good to go. If not, then it's finding a good mechanic for all your other bus maintenance. No torque wrench? If you ever sell your bus be sure and let the new owner know that a lot of work was done with incorrect bolt tightening. But keep plugging away. You've got guts and ambition and will end up a good mechanic. But you gotta' get the book and a torque wrench.  _________________ The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
| 73kombi wrote: | | when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice. | | Amskeptic wrote: | I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley |
71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 1563 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:45 am Post subject: |
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| enjoispammy8 wrote: | ok so its the end of DAY 2 of me trying to replace my cv joints.
so today, i managed to get both cv joints off the drive shaft, disassembled, and cleaned. packed the new joint and one old joint full of grease and then put the joints and boots (also full of grease) onto the then clean driveshaft. got my ratchet and went under the car only to find that the new joint wont move at all, causing me to curse very loudly and get a stern lecture from my father. so now instead of being the 2 hour job ive read about, its turning into a 3 day nightmare.
so heres what im wondering. the joint that i took apart and cleaned and put back together moves and allows me to bend it into the position to bolt it back in, but the new one wont budge. on ratwell's site it says that it is perfectly normal for new ones to be super tight, but perhaps there something wrong with the new joint.
any advice is welcome, seeing how i am going to be taking it apart on tuesday and recleaning and regreasing everything. so if anyone has any suggestions on how to bolt them in before i take them apart again, i'd be very grateful.  |
No need to pack the boots full of grease. |
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enjoispammy8 Samba Member

Joined: December 26, 2007 Posts: 1978 Location: Long Beach, CA
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:16 am Post subject: |
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yes, i am aware that i need to invest in a bently, and when i sent my dad to buy me a torque wrench at home depot yesterday, apparently they didnt have any. so im on the hunt for those
well my old bolts had some grease in them, which i thought ment my new boots should have some grease in them.  _________________ 1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
MY BUS MOVIE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poeSqYdYHws
| Desertbusman wrote: | | Is there a message here? Enjoy Spammy Ate |
| EZ Gruv wrote: | | Way to fuck up some little kids riding in the car next to you. |
| hazetguy wrote: | | you need to be doing better drugs. |
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