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j_dirge  Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 3329 Location: The Outer Sunset, San Francisco, CA
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:22 am Post subject: |
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| Tmcd wrote: | Nice looking rig!
Can anyone compare the Gabriels or MaxAirs to the Sensatrac coil-overs? I'm looking for a firm (not harsh) ride and a lift to around 18" all around. Maybe a 1/2" higher in the back with a real solid feel around corners and when loaded for offoroad camping. Most of the time I'm commuting alone, but through the summer we load up the family do frequent camping trips.
I'm wondering if the air shocks would help the handling as much as the coil overs. |
Can't speak to Gabrial vs Monroe.. but Omar mentions details on that topic in the "Air Shocks" thread.
I can speak to Monroe Sensatrac Coilover vs Max Air.
The coil over Sensatrac is a nice one time install "fix". They firm up the rear considerably and provide substantial load assist.. Easily 500lbs.
I do not support the hype on 1000+ pounds.. or "up to.." Carrying those types of loads introduces other problems. Your brakes aren't designed for those loads. Remember your GVWR when loading up.
I found the ride a tiny bit harsh with the Sensatrac coilovers when the van was empty. I found the rear end skipping... like when going thru a turn on uneven pavement. They DID help keep the rear flatter in turns.. especially when I had them paired with my original springs.
The Max Airs are "adjustable" and seem to absorb better in those conditions.
I think both shocks do thier job reasonably well.. but I am liking the adjustability and empty-van ride quality with the Max Airs.
Keep in mind both shocks come in a taller and shorter version.. both come in 12mm and 1/2" versions. I found the 12mm to fit a little nicer.
If your ride is at stock height go with the shorter shock. And if raised to 17.5 and higher you might want the longer version for more droop. There are limits to droop however.. Your CVs won't like running at more than 18"ish for very long. Added wear and tear. And they can break if pushed up to 19" and driven hard. The solution, then, is 930 CVs (or so I hear). and thats much more coin.
(I am going to 930s after this camping season when my new-to-me transmission goes in)
Slippery slope. _________________ 89 GL Westy, orig 2.1L WBXR.. Will it ever blow?
Well.. yes. It blew.. a big hole in the case. Time for a new engine.
| danfromsyr wrote: | those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Tmcd Samba Member

Joined: April 24, 2010 Posts: 16 Location: Shawnigan Lake, Vancouver Island, BC Canada
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Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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A great break down and review. Thanks! That really helps.
I think what I'll do is go with either the MaxAirs or the Gabriels in the longer version and then if needed, I can replace the springs later. I think the 5660's in front will help a lot with the handling, and an air shock with coil spacers in the rear should be a real improvement.
It's not that my shocks or springs are totally dead, I'm just needing better handling and suspension for the rough roads I tend to drive on when on camping trips. Soon to come 16" wheels/tires should help a lot too. _________________ '87 Westy, 2.1L, 170kms |
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AdrianC Samba Member

Joined: January 13, 2012 Posts: 444 Location: Wherever the road's gone
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 2:35 am Post subject: |
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I'm after some suggestions on which coils to buy for the rear of our '88 Westy hightop, since I've just located a rattle - the LH coil seems to have a spare bit sticking out the side. That'll by why that side's a bit low, then...
For reference, the back end is currently roughly 14 1/2" from hubcap centre to arch lip on the LH and 14 3/4" on the RH.
I know that the OEM springs are colour-coded blue for "passenger vehicle" and yellow for "commercial vehicle". What I don't really understand is what that implies about the spring rates and which is "heavier". To my mind, a van is more likely to be run light - empty - than a more fully trimmed bus, but also more likely to be run nearer the GVW.
I've not looked to see which the ones on here at the moment are. We're running fairly heavily loaded, including two bikes on the tailgate, and rough roads are far from unknown. Standard 185 14C rubber.
Yellow springs are easy to get. I've got dibs on a pair of NOS blue for the next couple of days, for about the same price.
Should I go blue, should I go yellow? Both of those would have to be shipped from the UK to us in Montenegro, but is there an easily-available option from a european vehicle that I may be able to order locally, in the same way as you guys can with the Moogs for the front?
I don't want to get the back end up on stilts, and I'm not planning to do anything to the front. But I do want it to better withstand the weight that's in there.
Thoughts gratefully received. _________________ Adrian
Zookeeper of a miscellany of motoring silliness, from 0.75bhp to 9ft tall.
Living life on the road in an '88 2.1DJ Westfalia Club Joker Hightop.
www.WhereverTheRoadGoes.com |
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davevickery Samba Member

Joined: July 16, 2005 Posts: 496 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:15 am Post subject: |
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Installing Moog 5660 front springs. This was easy enough that I wanted to post details as it is definitely DIY.
These are firmer springs that lift the van about 1.5 inches on a full westy. But the springs are actually shorter than stock so they go in pretty easy. If you unfasten everything below you don’t need a spring compressor.
1. Soak all the nuts with PB Blaster ahead of time.
2. Measure your ride height on flat ground before you start.
3. Chock the other side’s wheel and make sure e-brake is on.
4. Jack up van at jack point and remove wheel
5. Position 2nd jack under lower arm. Leave it down for now though.
6. Remove shock bolts(top nut then bottom bolt). Remove brake hose at the caliper (11 & 14MM) and wrap it tight with duct tape to stop it from draining all your brake fluid.
7. Remove 27MM nut on front of alignment bar
8. Remove 17MM lower stabilizer nut
9. Use 2nd jack to raise/lower the suspension as needed.
10. Remove 2 large Allen heads to upper ball joint The whole knuckle should drop down.
11. Pry out spring. It is so close to being free, I just used a large screw driver as a pry bar and a rubber mallet. It comes out to the rear.
12. Use duct tape to hold rubber spring boot on top of spring. Get boot good and tight onto spring. Spring is maybe a ¼” larger diameter and slightly thicker, so boot won’t stay on by itself.
13. Put in spring, bottom first (white markings down), then jam in top. I layed down and used my foot to get it in. It doesn’t want to go in all the way, maybe ½” or so further out than the original. Don’t worry about it, it will straighten itself as the spring compresses and later when you have been driving. One rubber boot tore a little bit as it didn’t quite clear the upper control arm, no biggy.
14. Jack up 2nd jack to compress spring. Make sure stabilizer bar is back in its hole.
15. Reconnect ball joint
16. Reconnect alignment arm
17. Reconnect brake hose. If it is dripping pretty good when you screw it back on, you might not have to bleed brakes later.
18. Install shock.
19. Check all the nuts again to make sure they are all tight.
20. Add more brake fluid before doing other side. That may save you from having to bleed brakes, but no biggy either way.
I scheduled most of a day to do this. It took 2 ½ hours to do the 1st side and 2 hours for the 2nd side. The springs will settle a little bit after driving over speed bumps and working it into place. I also put on Monroe helper springs 58632 in rear and there is a ½” spacer on the left rear side. People say you need alignment after, I am going to wait a bit to see if that is necessary.
Final ride height on my 87 full Westy is now 17 1/8: RF, 17 3/8 LF, 17 1/8 LR, 17 3/8 RR(with Monroe 58632). Other people with Westies say they have similar front ride heights 17 ¼” give or take a very small bit. It should not vary if the weights are similar. A non-westy rides at 18” with this combo I read. Front dropped about a ½” after the first test drive over speed bumps and settled at the #s above. Ride is good.
If you are adding a rear spacer to one side that will change your ride height at all corners, so do that first to get your starting point. I’m guessing the GW springs would fit a little better, but these are nice because you can do it yourself since the Moogs are shorter and just go right in. $50 shipped on Amazon.com I don’t think the other Moog model that is the next size up (5662?) would fit as well or be as easy to get in because they are taller and larger diameter. But these seem like a good low budget solution.
Hope this helps someone, Dave |
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gesture Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2012 Posts: 1 Location: Sooke B.C.
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Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:09 pm Post subject: 1983 Westfalia Spring Lift |
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Good day,
I have a 1983 Westfalia 2WD and looking for the best option for a lift. I dont believe so, but, will the gowesty 2 inch spring lift work on an 83? If not, is there anyone that sells springs for this conversion or am I stuck just putting in a couple spacers?
Thanks in advance |
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geo_tonz Samba Member

Joined: August 01, 2012 Posts: 358 Location: Courtenay, BC, CANADA
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Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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| davevickery wrote: | Installing Moog 5660 front springs. This was easy enough that I wanted to post details as it is definitely DIY.....
Hope this helps someone, Dave |
Thanks Dave! I was thinking it wouldn't be too bad, but now that I see it laid out I think I can handle it.
I'm thinkin' 5658's will probably be the way to go for me. '85 tin top with a water boxer and no cabinetry so the 5660's would likely be a little harsh and maybe a little taller than I want to subject my CV's to. Just want less sponge and and if an extra 1/2-1" of lift comes out of it all the better for playing on the logging roads. Although my '85 already rides decently high as is. Anyone running 5658's in their tin top? Or maybe I missed that further up the thread...
Did anyone every tackle the question of if spacers on the front are practical/safe/stupid? I saw the question asked a number of times but no answers.
Gesture: if you read the description of the springs on the GoWesty site you'll see they cover all Vanagon years. It also explains the difference between their different spring models on different van styles. _________________ 1985 Vanagon 9 Pass rust bucket DD "Bob".
1985 Vanagon GL "Weekender Package" Project.
Both in spectacular sh*t brown.
"Damn Bloody Germans!"
Quote from my German VW-wrenching neighbour. |
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dogcoves Samba Member

Joined: September 09, 2005 Posts: 264 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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How many hours did it take you to install GW lift springs? _________________ Current VW: 1987 Westfalia
My Past Volkswagens:1958 karmann ghia, 1963 Westfalia, 1966 Westfalia, 1970 Beetle, 1963 Beetle, 1970 Westfalia
http://familywesty.tumblr.com |
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dogcoves Samba Member

Joined: September 09, 2005 Posts: 264 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Got my GW 1.5 Lift Springs installed. I had Big O tires near Van Cafe balance them because they balance V.C.'s work. I am very happy with them--wish I would have done this five years ago when I bought my Westy. I have the Bilstein HD shocks on which work perfect with the springs. I was worried because the Bilstein shocks were to soft with my original springs. Took about an hour a spring to do. _________________ Current VW: 1987 Westfalia
My Past Volkswagens:1958 karmann ghia, 1963 Westfalia, 1966 Westfalia, 1970 Beetle, 1963 Beetle, 1970 Westfalia
http://familywesty.tumblr.com |
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outwesty Samba Member

Joined: June 06, 2006 Posts: 658 Location: Carnelian Bay, CA
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:03 am Post subject: |
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I have been running Bilstein HD's on my TDI swapped 2wd westy for approx 60k miles...The last 20k I have had H&R Gowesty 1.5" lift springs on it.
Today I replaced the rears with Old Man Emu's for a syncro and all I can say is wow. They allow the trailing arm to droop a little over 2 inches more. The van is more stable and rolls much less in turns. The van is getting syncro swapped in the near future so the Bilsteins will stay in the front until then. I am at 18" from the hub to the fender lip in the rear. ( I have one 1/2" spacer on each side above the spring in the rear.)
 _________________ TDI swapped 89 westy, Red 87 Syncro, 86 Syncro VR6, White 87 Syncro, 97 Jetta TDI, 81 DeLorean DMC-12 |
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j_dirge  Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 3329 Location: The Outer Sunset, San Francisco, CA
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:31 am Post subject: |
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| outwesty wrote: | | They allow the trailing arm to droop a little over 2 inches more. |
Careful with that.. I have shocks that allow similar droop on my 2WD and my CVs (both sides) gave up the ghost shortly after. Within about 10k.
Could be coincidence as they were originals.. but
I figure that the added droop is at or past the limit for the OEM CVs.
The inboard syncro CV sits a bit lower.. and possibly that allows use of Old Man Emus without damaging CVs? But I'd use limiting straps to be on the safe side. _________________ 89 GL Westy, orig 2.1L WBXR.. Will it ever blow?
Well.. yes. It blew.. a big hole in the case. Time for a new engine.
| danfromsyr wrote: | those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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