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Herbst '71 Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2004 Posts: 245 Location: Augusta, GA
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Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:18 pm Post subject: Heater Cable Remove and Replace Tutorial with Pics |
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This weekend I finally decided to remove and replace the heater cables on my 1971 Bus. I searched through the posts and found a set of instructions written by Paul (Duncwarw) that seemed simple enough. I figured it would not hurt to add some photos to Paul’s instructions and call it a tutorial.
1. Disconnect heater cables from heater control levers. They are secured with spring clips. Remove the left kick panel and put it in a safe place.
2. Crawl under the front and remove belly pan. There should be eight 10 mm bolts. Autumn had seven 10mm bolts, a Philips head screw and a flat head screw. Two more items to put on my shopping list.
3. After the belly pan is removed, you will see the two heater cables protruding from two rubber grommets. Have an assistant guide the bent ends of the cables through the wiring behind the dash and pull the cables through the rubber grommets. There are two plastic cable guides/clips on the floor pan. The one on the right is easy to see. The one for the left cable is above the heater ducting. Remove the cables from their respective clips and lay the cables out in front of the bus. Make the path as straight as possible.
4. Tie a long string to the back end of each of the heater cables.
5. Go to the back of the bus and slide under. You will need to remove the barrel nuts securing the cables to the heat exchangers. Next, remove the rubber sleeve and the end caps from the metal tubes the cables are routed through. My end caps were in two pieces. The outside portion slides into a bracket and I think the inside portion keeps the cable from sliding back into the sleeve. I could be wrong. The inside piece has a slit along the side. Pull it off the cable and store it in a bag with the end caps and the rubber sleeves.
The picture above shows the inner pieces that are hidden by the end caps.
6. Try to spray some lube into both ends of the pipes.
7. From the front, pull one the cable until you have reached the string. Many people have mentioned attaching the cable to a drill if it binds up. This works out perfectly.
8. Remove the string from the old cable and tie it to the new cable. Grease the new cable and begin feeding it through metal tube from front to back while your assistant pulls on the string in the rear.
9. Install the small inner plastic piece (inside piece) and then install the outside portion of the cap. There are three grooves in the cap. On mine, the metal bracket slid into the middle groove. Slip the rubber sleeve back onto the cable. The wide end should slide onto the end of the cap.
10. Go back to the front of the bus and attach the ends of the cables to the heater control levers. Watch the ends of the cables as you are guiding them to the levers. Once again, they will snag any wire they can.
11. Crawl back under the bus. Adjust the slack out of the cables at the exchangers while you assistant works the levers. You will need two barrel nuts to attach the cables.
12. Go back to the front of the bus and push the heater cables back into their plastic cable guides/clips. Replace the belly pan and you’re done.
I hope this tutorial is helpful. Thanks to Duncwarw for the original instructions and everyone else who posted tips on removing the cables.
Thanks,
Rik _________________ Rik
'71 Deluxe/1600 DP
"Fortunately my mistakes are serving as a warning for others." |
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RZAR Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2007 Posts: 725
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 6:27 am Post subject: |
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Im getting ready to do this on my 77. Thanks for the info. |
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71whitewesty Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2010 Posts: 1544 Location: oregon
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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This is a great tutorial of what I'm doing right now but I'm having problems with pulling the cable out. It does not want to budge! I've taken the plastic end things off and I've yanked the heck out of it. I've secured it to something and stood on it and just can't get it to budge. Anyone had the same experience?
I also haven't tied a string on the end cause I don't have any nubs to hold the string from slipping off, the cable broke there. Any ideas on attaching a line on it? Maybe just pinch a hook in the cable?
I'm thinking if the cable is this hard to get out then getting the new one in won't be easy either.... |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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71whitewesty wrote: |
This is a great tutorial of what I'm doing right now but I'm having problems with pulling the cable out. It does not want to budge! I've taken the plastic end things off and I've yanked the heck out of it. I've secured it to something and stood on it and just can't get it to budge. Anyone had the same experience?
I also haven't tied a string on the end cause I don't have any nubs to hold the string from slipping off, the cable broke there. Any ideas on attaching a line on it? Maybe just pinch a hook in the cable?
I'm thinking if the cable is this hard to get out then getting the new one in won't be easy either.... |
There are several ferrule like pieces on the rear of the cables that can hang up as they get pulled into the tube. Need to check those first. If that's not it then getting the cables out is a bitch. Nose the bus up a steep slope and then pour a bunch of light oil (like a bottle of 3 and 1 oil into each tube). Give it plenty of time, like days, to make its way down through the tube. It should displace the water and hopefully break up the rust a bit. Now hook the cables to a tree and let the weight of the bus ease the cables out for you.
Others may have their own ideas on removal. |
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71whitewesty Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2010 Posts: 1544 Location: oregon
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Wildthings, that's more or less what I was thinking too. My ferrules are cut off so I know that's not it. I'll try and get some oil in there. I've tried for two nights and cannot get it to budge at all. |
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jtauxe Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5780 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:44 am Post subject: |
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Very nice, Herbst '71. The only step I would add is this:
7.5 Now would be a good time to verify that you have the correct replacement cables, by laying them out side by side to confirm the lengths. _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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chrisradioman Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2007 Posts: 4873 Location: Swansea (Sunny Penllergaer) Wales UK
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rustbus Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009 Posts: 2078 Location: alberta
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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71whitewesty wrote: |
Thanks Wildthings, that's more or less what I was thinking too. My ferrules are cut off so I know that's not it. I'll try and get some oil in there. I've tried for two nights and cannot get it to budge at all. |
I tried until i ripped part of the cable out of the tube.
I was forced to use zip ties and just run the new cables outside the tubes. lots of zip ties, and it works OK.
I'd love to fix it, but i don't think its now fixable without cutting a section of the tube out to get another pull on the cable.
might even be easier to find good tubes to cut out of another bus and replace mine entirely. ahh well, maybe some day.
sigh. _________________ May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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rustbus wrote: |
71whitewesty wrote: |
Thanks Wildthings, that's more or less what I was thinking too. My ferrules are cut off so I know that's not it. I'll try and get some oil in there. I've tried for two nights and cannot get it to budge at all. |
I tried until i ripped part of the cable out of the tube.
I was forced to use zip ties and just run the new cables outside the tubes. lots of zip ties, and it works OK.
I'd love to fix it, but i don't think its now fixable without cutting a section of the tube out to get another pull on the cable.
might even be easier to find good tubes to cut out of another bus and replace mine entirely. ahh well, maybe some day.
sigh. |
I am working on a fix here. On my first bus I had this problem and came up with a jury rig that worked noticeably better than the OEM system. I have been thinking I want to copy that on my present '77 and neaten it up a bit. |
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stevespeirs Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2008 Posts: 310 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:45 am Post subject: |
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My replacement cables, boots and barrel nuts have arrived. Looks like my cables have been cut/disconnected from the heat exchangers by the PO. How critical are the plastic inner pieces and end caps mentioned in Step 5? _________________ 1979 Microbus |
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curtis4085 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011 Posts: 4806 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:25 am Post subject: |
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stevespeirs wrote: |
My replacement cables, boots and barrel nuts have arrived. Looks like my cables have been cut/disconnected from the heat exchangers by the PO. How critical are the plastic inner pieces and end caps mentioned in Step 5? |
Bus-ok sells NOS inner pieces. And I'm sure if you Email Chris at Bustedbus he also would have this part. Helps guide and protect cable from wear. Unless you want to replace the cables again in your lifetime I would do the repair correctly with the right parts. _________________ Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com |
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mnskmobi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2005 Posts: 536 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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curtis4085 wrote: |
stevespeirs wrote: |
My replacement cables, boots and barrel nuts have arrived. Looks like my cables have been cut/disconnected from the heat exchangers by the PO. How critical are the plastic inner pieces and end caps mentioned in Step 5? |
Bus-ok sells NOS inner pieces. And I'm sure if you Email Chris at Bustedbus he also would have this part. Helps guide and protect cable from wear. Unless you want to replace the cables again in your lifetime I would do the repair correctly with the right parts. |
I don't have those pieces (shame! shame!) but I work the levers a few times every few weeks when I am not using the heater on the theory that this will keep them from seizing up. |
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stevespeirs Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2008 Posts: 310 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 5:47 am Post subject: |
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I agree, might as well do the job properly.
Ken Madson at The Bus Co is hooking me up with the plastic pieces.
http://www.thebusco.com _________________ 1979 Microbus |
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DougB Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2007 Posts: 1076 Location: Falls Church, Virginia, USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 3:34 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for this, Rik! The procedure worked for me and my '75 last night!
- Doug _________________ '75 Campmobile (tin-top to SpaceRoof)
'73 Fastback
'52 BMW R67/2
'41 Zundapp KS600
'55 Puch SGS250
A very, very understanding wife |
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westy_26 Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2015 Posts: 8 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:18 am Post subject: Rear Heater cable |
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Digging up a slightly old post
I have a 73 late bay. PO said it did not have heating a rear heater cable or heater arms but everything else was in tact. I have since bought the heater arms and it appears to have all the cables up front, or at least so I can see disappearing down the dashboard.
Looking at the rear the heat ex-changers and flaps do not have a cable attached.
Is there a diagram of where the cable runs from the heat ex-changer end and what cable or cables do I need?
I would buy a Bently Book but they seem to be either ridiculously priced or out of stock. Only had the bus a few weeks too and have done tons of work. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:24 am Post subject: |
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I would buy a Bently Book but they seem to be either ridiculously priced or out of stock.
Classified Search
Good luck
Tcash
Start a Post for your bus. |
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westy_26 Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2015 Posts: 8 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:53 am Post subject: |
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Tcash wrote: |
I would buy a Bently Book but they seem to be either ridiculously priced or out of stock.
Classified Search
Good luck
Tcash
Start a Post for your bus. |
Thanks Tcash, I have found one, sent them a message and posted a Wanted Advert. |
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westy_26 Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2015 Posts: 8 Location: Surrey
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:15 am Post subject: Heater cable end caps |
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I have removed my heater cables and positioned the replacements. However my friend removed the end caps and rubber part and now we are putting them back together he cannot remember how they go together.
I have the small split piece, the end cap and the rubber tube. Where does the small inner plastic piece sit in relation to the cable. The cable has an end which I understand connects to the heat exchanger but does the little clip sit between this and the next bit of metal on the wire or does it sit further along. Which way round does it go?
My tubes look different from the pics above, they do not have a metal bracket holding them on to the underneath of the bus. I assume the cable comes out, you put the clip on which then buts up to the thick metal, the bigger clip goes next thus stopping the cable being pulled through and then goes on the rubber covering the end cap?
Any help gratefully received. Oh and I looked in the Bentley book and it does not tell me a great deal, there is not even a section on replacing these cables (that I could find). |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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LivinInnaVWBus Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2013 Posts: 968
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome! Now, I'd love to see a tutorial of how to remove a stuck cable which has broken off inside of the tube. |
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