Finally got a bus

[rud helsen]

[[email protected]]

[rud helsen]

the imported american busses, KG's, ... over here are: filled up with foam or putted togheter with some old newspaper and iron wire! and I've seen it more then just once!

but using lead or tin solder is the best way of restauring things that's the good way! but if he welded it first (missed that piece in the topic I think) then there's absolutely no problem to use some filler to smooth it out!
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Oval bug '56 "Marie" (*resto*)
Splitscreen kombi '67 "Oscar" (*resto*)
Bug '70 "Floris" (sold!)
Audi Coupé GT 2.2 (sold!)

[kingodirtp3]

yea we bought some 22 guage metal, cut out the rust, used rust bullet
inside the ricker, then welded the new piece in. it isnt perfect, but its alot
better than holes and it'll be longer before i have to worry about getting
the metal replaced and all the body work and paint to go with it.

i like drivign in now looking kinda shitty, gives it more personality, plus i'm not scared to get it scratched.

[kingodirtp3]

so i got the front drum (one is on back order)
front pads and bearings
rear axle seal kits
rear pads
i got new pads cause if i'm goign to do all this work i might as well
replace the pads, all of the current pads have cracks in the material
anyway and i'm sure i got trans fluid o nthe leaking rear set.
gotta adjust my steerign box some
check my valves, timing, and sync the carbs if needed
its been about 1500 miles, 1500 mroe to go till i change the oil. i wont add the lucas zddp oil additive this time
a friend gave me soem carpet paddign so i'll through that under the cargo floor rug.
i may get more of the sticky black insulation stuff i got before and add some more coverage.

[kingodirtp3]

on tuesday my welding friend is coming over early to hopefully finish up
the passenger side rocker and the small patch on the rear cross member
i cant wait to hook the amps back up n have soem real sound while driving.
i posted this in the single port percformer thread but havent got any bites yet:
so here's what i have now:
10w-30 royal purple
145, 60 on weber icts
4.12 trans stock 68 bug
fuel presure to 3-5
w100,
dual ICTs with vacuum to distributor,
SVDA distibutor,
8.3-1 CR,
1.25 rockers,
HD rocker shafts,
chro-mo pushrods,
single HD springs,
opened up exhaust port, intake valve cut back, 3 angle valve job,
1 3/8" header w/ cherrybomb oval turbo muffler custom routing,
breather box,
full flow filter,
10mm studs w/ case savers,
26mm stock oil pump,
stock doghouse cooler,
all tin, flaps and thermostat too,
stock 4 dowel crank non-cw,
everything balanced
what i want to do is put in a 78 C/W crank
i know i need 90.5b pistons, rods, pushrods, pushrod tubes, gasket set, bearings, and cylinder shims.
what i'm not sure about is 5.4 or 5.5 rods, H or I beam?
should i go up to a 110 cam?
should i keep my CR at 8.3?
i will be getting a new AS41 case to build this from thats clearance, opened up for 90.5, full flowed and welded behind #3.
i can get new big valve dp heads based on stock casting for 150ea plus the dp manifolds for my ICTs, total of around 400 but then i'd have to get
some weber dcnf 40s which is another 600 or so. i'm already spending
about 1300 i dont have so i cant add another 1000 to it for heads n carbs.
so considering the work i had done to my sp heads and the fact that this
is going in a 67 bus with straight axle, should i keep my heads or switch
to dp? with my current set up i have to down shift for hills and runs out of breath around 4500-5000.
i wont be changing the heads, carbs, or exhaust.
so please let me know what the single port experts think!

[kingodirtp3]

any single port gurus have suggestions?

[kingodirtp3]

so i made some phone calls to a few VW engine builders.
one told me to use 5.4 rods, one said i could use my stock piston,
another said i could use my stock rods, and some have said i can use 5.5
rods.
if i use b pistons and stock rods the engien will only be a thousandth or so wider than stock.
one builder told me i needed to lower my CR from 8.3 tp 7.3. he was suprised i'm not pinging now
also i was told by most to stay with the e100 cam since its in a bus, while a coupel said i could go up to a e110 without loosing any bottom end.
so i'm definately confused. luckily i have one more place left to call and i have a month or 2 before i have to decide what parts.

[kingodirtp3]

so now i'm more confused between 1955, 2007. i called DRD to see what
he thinks about my single port stoker upgrade. he's great to talk to. he
said that it would be an easier build if i used the 82 crank. either way i'd
have to clearance the cam and case. but with the 78 i'll also have to cut
the cylinders back 4mm.
it makes since to build a 2110sp now. it'll cost about the same as a 1955
or 2007 and i'll get alot more torque. single port heads die out around 5k
which is fine since i dont go over 4500k anyway.
it would cost only around 800 if i split my 1776 and used what i have
since my engine only has about 2k miles so far.
but i like having a spare motor so i'll just build up the long block. if i just
sold my 1776 without the heads i could get away with only spending a
couple houndred to get a 2110. damn i shoulda just stroker it from the beginning.....

[kingodirtp3]

so i think i have learned another valuable lesson.
build the engine to you want in the begining instead of trying to update it later without the wife finding out.
i've been trying to add some torque to my sp1776, i have a thread about it.
it seems i'll have to send my case out to get clearanced or the pistons, or
something will have to be done to stop me from being able to split the
case, drop in the new stuff and be driving again in less than a day.

so when u build your engine, be sure to do lots of research! i should've
just biult up a 2110 since its just as reliable and as easy to build as a
1600 or 1776.
i'll still build a sp2110, but now i'll have to do it slowly and wait until my
current 1776 breaks before i can build up the 2110 so the wife is ok with
the 2000 i'm spending. atleast going slow gives me time to look for some
good deals. i already got a great deal on a good case set up for 2110.
and i have a set of sp heads ready to get modified by brothers with bigger valves and ported.

[kingodirtp3]

so the body work is all done, no more rust holes for the bus, i'll post pics soon.
also i ordered a mallory hyfire vi al box, head temp gauge, small engine
compartment oil press gauge, gas pedal rebuilt kit and a 1.5" berg merged exhaust.
this will get me by until the wife goes to japan in 4 or 5 months.
once she goes i'll up the 1776 to 1955 and have some real torque. i got
the berg exhaust cause it clears the thermostat, it comes with a stinger;
baffle extra; and the matching jtubes, not to mention the 15% military
discount i get. so i can bolt it on, and drive to the
muffler shop to get the muffler i'm using now modified to fit.
it will be kinda fun to drive with a stinger for a day or so though.
so with the heaterboxes not choking up the exhaust, my heads should
breath easier and not get too hot and the mallory CDi will make things
better all around.

[Slow Steve]

Bus is looking good! You have a lot of time into it, it's paying off. Did you say you had 205/60/14 tires all the way around? I have the same bus and 14's are on it now. I'm going back and forth between keeping the 14's or trying to find some 15's. Did you work out that rubbing issue on the rear? Do you like how your bus is handling with them?
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BarryL wrote:
100 years from now when they have reverse atom regeneration attractor technology perfected and in a hand held back yard mechanic's price range, someone will dig up this thread and go, "What were those guys thinking? The whole thing was all there just waiting to be re-atomized. Funny how easily they cut them up back then."
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74 911
72 914
66 Single cab

[kingodirtp3]

i had 205/60/14 in the back, they rubbed the torsion housing some so i had to put a 10mm spacer, plus some 1/8th in washers to move it out.
for the front i had 195/60/14 but the would rub some cause i'm lowered. the 185/55/14s i have now work great.
with the bigger front sway bar, rear camber compensator and i have the front torsion bars slight preloaded. it drives great

[kingodirtp3]

weel berg called me and said the 1.5 was too big for my engine, even 1955 since my valves are stock.
so i'm back to lookign for flanged jtubes

[Hansolo99]

Just read the whole thing for the first time. Great job! I like all the progress along the way. Keep it up I want to see more...................

[mightymouse]

Best bet for your sanity.
Pick ONE builder and stick with that person.
Asking a million people never works and youll get a million opinions.
Just stay clear of the guy who said run lower CR, he obviously hasnt a clue about engine dynamics.
Pick a builder, pick a size they suggest for your setup and intended use and stand back. Let the builder do what he does best.
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Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson


Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.

[kingodirtp3]

yep, thats the plan mightymouse

[kingodirtp3]

i got my parts, the CDI, head temp gauge, coil and rotor for the CDI.
after soem reading i'll just install the CHT sensor under the spark plug.
once i take out the engine i'll mount it right next to the plug.
i was wondering where to mount the mallory CDI box, i think i'll install it in the engine compartment on the drivers side spare tire well.
i see lots of people muonting them inside the car though. would that be better?
for my exhaust i'll just order the kymco super header with jtubes in 1 3/8ths and sell my header and flanged heaterboxes combo.

[kingodirtp3]

ok, so i'm finally driving the bus again, soo nice to be back in it!
while it was down i found out that i wasnt reaching full throttle, so i tightened up my
gas pedal and accelorator cable. now i get full throttle and nice smooth idle.
but now when i try to use my new found throttle at around 4500rpm the engine will act like i'm running out of gas.
for example today on the highway i was in 3rd at WOT at almost 4500rpm and it stumbled, loss power, like i was out of gas,
i let off the gas and it was fine.
i do only have about a 1/4 tank left, and its gas from 3 months ago.
60idle, 145main jets, weber ICTs, 100 cam with 1.25 rockers, stock heaterboxes and 1 3/8ths header with single quietpac,
SVDA dizzy with vacuum to both carbs.
i'll put new gas in it tomorrow on my way to work and sunday i'll check my linkage and re-sync if needed. i'll also be putting the
mallory hyfire box in this weekend so i'll have to regap my plugs anyway.
i'll check the filter too.
everything was good 2 months ago, the only change is now i have more pedal.

[kingodirtp3]

the new front drums and rebuilt spindles took care of the humming noise from the front right wheel and the wiggle the right wheel had.
drives good now