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Green apple monster rebuild thread
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was dimension 8:4:1 mix. Laid on nicely and barring a few bugs I have very little to work out when I'm done. It's almost fully cured, might have to wait another day before I can put my windows in. After removing my antenna I found some of the origional striping. It's great to have a sample to take to the vinyl shop to get decals cut.

This bus had layer upon layer of paint.

1. Oe layer
2. stock repaint, decals removed and blue paint used instead
3. third paint job, stock colors painted over everything. Didn't even sand down the #2 paint. Painted over blue stripe but you could see the ridges were they didn't sand anything.

I sanded through shitty paint job #3 and called it good there. The lower green will require tons of body work due to all the patches I welded in. I have to put a new throttle cable on it but hope to drive it around town this week. I'd like any failures (hopefully no failures) to happen close to home.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint cured enough to toss the windows in this evening!

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I used the 199.99 seal kit from busdepot, the seals were pliable and fit great. The look is just what I was after. I got all 5 rear windows in today and I'll get the windshield in tomorrow. It's been gravy so far (@2 minutes per window). I cheated and had my neighbor give me a hand. The dude's got 30+years experience as a body man......I'm begining to think that guy could will these windows into position with his mind, he's that good.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still plugging away. So far so good, it's running like a top. I took it apart a few days ago because the brake shoes came unglued and thought it'd be a good time to re adjust the torsions, run the e-brake cables, and do a rear brake job.

I reset the rear torsion bars to 29 degrees (unloaded) and it corrected the previous but-sag along with adjusted for the extra 200lbs of engine stuff. Sits perfectly level now and Looks great.

Tips for torsion job-
1. Toss the orgional bushing cap bolts. They're self tapping and will cross thread upon re-installation.
2. Chase the bushing cap threads )10x1.50 thread to clean things up
3. Buy some grade 8 10x150x40mm bolts to re-install them. These are a bit longer but will help with guiding things back together.


I couln't find any talcum powder for the bushings so I rolled them in gold bond, Good enough for me-good enough for the bus.

I'm still looking for e-brake parts so while it's parked I figured it's time to finish the paint job. I hate body work.

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Compare it to some older pics, the but is up over 2 inches higher.

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No sidemarkers? What would Nigel think?
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EZ Gruv
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
What would Nigel think?


Who the F cares?
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I miss his safety related rants that extended for days, months, forever.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's greener than green now.

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I'm glad to have the paint laid down. That was the last major hurdle in getting this ready to head to disney in a few weeks.

When I unwrap it in a few hours I'll snap a few more pics. It'll be a week or so before it's hardened enough to lay on the blue stripe.

I'm pretty psyched about it right now. It's loud, proud and pretty f'n glorious.
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work man!
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now I get to start putting it back together.

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volknstein
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 8:34 pm    Post subject: Crazy green colors combo Reply with quote

Hi,

I think these colors were from the factory. I received 2 rust free front door from the late great Karl Von Salzen in Fresno years ago. I still have them and am going to install them on my bus this summer. The color combo is identical to the colors on the green monster. Very nice looking in my opinion.
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Waves2day
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that thing is looking good!
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flex71
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great job, I'm watching this one.
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fastmc25
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's on the road with it now..... we just need some updated pics and info... Smile
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1973 Type181 Kubelwagen (Thing 2 ) 2110cc
1971 Transporter (Pickle) 1914cc
1961 Deluxe Beetle (Christine) 1776cc
1973 Adventurewagen Baja Bus (Clyde) 3.4L
1970 Formula Vee Beetle 2276cc

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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't get it ready in time for my disney trip so the poor guy had to sit that one out. I have been putting around town in it trying to work the rest of the bugs out. I switched from a holley to an autolite carb because I had issues with vapor lock. The autolite has better throttle response but still does the vapor locking. The engine places the carb so high where all the heat is bottled up. I'm looking into putting an early throttle body injection off the 87-88 rangers on it to cure that.

Overall it's been a blast to drive. It doesn't overheat and has tons of power. When you sit in traffic for awhile everything heat soaks so I've got to spend more time engineering heat shields for the important things. SO i'm only having problems with radiant heat, and that's not a problem on the open road. I can keep up with traffic and sustained speeds 90mph are possible. I haven't tried to go any faster because, in the end it's still a bus.
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fastmc25
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
I switched from a holley to an autolite carb because I had issues with vapor lock. The autolite has better throttle response but still does the vapor locking. The engine places the carb so high where all the heat is bottled up. I'm looking into putting an early throttle body injection off the 87-88 rangers on it to cure that.


Do you have a fuel pressure regulator on it and a electric fuel pump? The regulator should eliminate the Vapor lock...

The Autolite carbs work well too.. I've used both.. You can also close off the intake water jacket....... I used a small thin metal plat and some rtv to seal it off..... It will help cut down the heat to the carb........ I don't think your gonna need that preheat function with your setup......even where you live.. You shouldn't have a Icing problem... Smile

Fuel Injection will be ultimately the best... It'll just be a few more bugs to work out .... Smile
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1973 Type181 Kubelwagen (Thing 2 ) 2110cc
1971 Transporter (Pickle) 1914cc
1961 Deluxe Beetle (Christine) 1776cc
1973 Adventurewagen Baja Bus (Clyde) 3.4L
1970 Formula Vee Beetle 2276cc

I identify as: “A Pissed Old GI ”
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using a stock style (new) fuel pump spec'd for the 78 mustang 2. This has a return on the pump and I used a fuel injected gas tank so I had a return to plumb it up right. I think I just have too much heat located up high by the carb. I'm thinking efi might be the only solution for me. I might have been better off sticking with a weber progressive on the stock intake. I just didn't want to cut the bed area out to be able to fit the stock stuff.
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fastmc25
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Chazz,
You honestly don't need the return to the tank ....I've never had a need for them on any of my 2300 Ford setups with a low pressure pump........ shut that off and i bet your Vapor lock will stop... Place a pressure regulator between the pump and the carb and set it to 2.5-3.5 psi ...... That should fix it ...... Smile

A cheap thing to try... it does work .....

I know the heat worries you a bit ....... but my V6 generates a bit more heat and the carb sits higher........... I've never had a Vapor Lock problem on it... It just trucks on... Smile

BTW... I'm starting on the next Ford 2300 watercooled conversion in a couple months....It's on a '74 Westy....... I'll log what we do .... Cool
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Paul




1973 Type181 Kubelwagen (Thing 2 ) 2110cc
1971 Transporter (Pickle) 1914cc
1961 Deluxe Beetle (Christine) 1776cc
1973 Adventurewagen Baja Bus (Clyde) 3.4L
1970 Formula Vee Beetle 2276cc

I identify as: “A Pissed Old GI ”
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bmweuro
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great build. I really like your engine of choice.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't done a lot to the bus lately. But I did get the stripes on.

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I had the strip made 3.5 inches wide at the top, 3/4 space, then the 3/4 stripe along the bottom. I couldn't do anthing about the corners yet because the compound curves back there are a bit of a bitch to wrap. I'll have to get wider material- say a 4 inch large stripe and a 1 inch little stripe. This will allow for the distortion and shrinkage that happens when you follow the body line around the corner.

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Oooooooh check out the wild westerny goodness.

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It's definitely a look that grows on ya.
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VDubTech
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude...that thing is awesome. The paint looks great, love the stripes!!
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borninabus wrote:
a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful.

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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to wait until summer to get the rest. That was just a cabin fever burst of energy there. It takes too much wood to get the garage above 80 degrees to lay the stripes. I'll get the rest of my material made up and finish in the spring.

Next project, Rear swing away tire carrier. I'm also thinking about nerf bars that'll fit into the jack points. I've done to much to it to not protect the body somehow. There's too many busses out there with doinks taken out of the sides for me to blame it on pure driver error. Better safe than sorry!
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