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Green apple monster rebuild thread
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jol_bk
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:33 pm    Post subject: dogleg install Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
I got this bastard dogleg fitted. I don't have experience with anything but this klockerholm peice but I'd hoped for the 135.00 I have invested in it that it'd fit a heck of alot better. Fitting involved severe amounts of trimming and alot of hammer & dolly work to get it to look right. My bus has no signs of accident damage so I really didn't think it would be that rough of a job. I have to do the other side but since it's not as bad I'm just doing a skin. I also have a couple rockers and rear wheel arch patches coming.

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Lots of plug welds to grind down, overall door gap is @3/8 inch where it was once 1/4....Consistant gaps are imposible with these. I'll gladly try mexican parts on my next bus.

Now in green on green on blue on brown on black on white. That's a color scheme the neighborhood society can appreciate.


Nice work on that dog leg, I have similar work to do on my transporter.
I hope I can do as well. What kind of welder did you use?
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a hobart handler 110v unit. Whatever you use make sure it isn't a flux core welder. Stay away from anything Chinese.

More metal work is coming in the way of a full sized engine hatch and a few other doo dads so I'm not done tinkering yet
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
Pictures pictures pictures. I'm modifying the radiator pan to accept an a3 golf manual trans radiator. This radiator is physically smaller but being a dual pass radiator this puts both inlet and outlet back closer to the engine. This elimiates a few connections and cleans the mess up a bit.

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^^^^^holes cut for inlet and outlet pass throughs^^^^^^


Did you have to cut down the inlet and outlets from the radiator to get clearance? Or does it sit low enough that it's not a concern?
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, those hose barbs protrude under that plate @ 2". The scoop hangs way lower so it's not a bg deal.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 14, 2013 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
No, those hose barbs protrude under that plate @ 2". The scoop hangs way lower so it's not a bg deal.


Cool, thanks!
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BusJunky
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent work Chazz. I'm in Norwalk, Oh and I've started a bay panel restore. It's in really bad shape. Glad to see some local Ohioans doin werk!! Great build thread!!
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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good, bad, and otherwise updates are updates.

I haven't driven it since before Christmas. My flywheel is missing half the teeth it started with so since @ October I had to pop start it everywhere it went. I'm pretty sure the kit I got off Craigslist so long ago might've been a 6v set up. Who knows? I did have a good deal of trouble eating oem style rebuild starters. I had to buy a high dollar IMI starter and it gave the big FU to the flywheel.

Starter is still good though, one tough mofo.

The new cv boots I installed disintegrated in less than three years use. They're dry rotten Chinese garbage. I have to remember which ones I got from bd so I don't buy junk again.

I've come to the realization that you just can't occasionally use a carbureted engine anymore, at least not a Holley. My new 390 cfm had to come apart anytime the bus sat more than two months. If the fuel evaporates it'll corrode any uncoated aluminum inside the carb...particularly the accelerator squirter check would seize giving me a hour pre-season tear down ritual to go through every time I forgot to occasionally start it through winter. No ford factory fuel injection will work without a custom intake manifold due to space constraints. I want turn key simplicity but there's just not a simple answer from where I am.

2.3 is almost on the ground.

2.1 wbx and digifant going in. I hope to get some good local use out of this used engine I found then use it as a core for a rocky Jennings rebuild once I have all the bugs worked out.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2.3 is out. Everything is way crustier and more a pain in the butt than I remember but it's done.

I removed the center mount bridge finally and re-routed the throttle cable. The Wbx seems to need the cable in the same location as the 1.7 t4 and it looks like the stock cable end will fit this throttle body. It's looking pretty positive...like this will scoot right along.
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The engine is a complete drop out from a vanagon that was receiving a conversion. I gave 350.00 and it's as complete as you see here (clutch to exhaust, trans and starter are the ones from the monster). I have ecu's wiring etc from my vanagon experimentation phase so I'm good there.
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So no adaptors, no bs just some boring 'ol factory stuff. I'm getting 92-ish horsepower and fuel injection. I'll also be getting back the vw flat four sound as a side bonus.

Here's these crap boots. They were lobros I'm getting tired of the questionable quality stuff. Cv boots are a garbage job to do once. I hate having to do them again less than four years and 2000 miles later.
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:

Here's these crap boots. They were lobros I'm getting tired of the questionable quality stuff. Cv boots are a garbage job to do once. I hate having to do them again less than four years and 2000 miles later.


I installed EMPI chinese under a year ago and one of them is ripped. The other side presumably were installed in 05 and still kicking. I too am not looking forward to another CV refresh. Tho my supplier has better then the chinese this time...
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dugfresh wrote:
chazz79 wrote:

Here's these crap boots. They were lobros I'm getting tired of the questionable quality stuff. Cv boots are a garbage job to do once. I hate having to do them again less than four years and 2000 miles later.


I installed EMPI chinese under a year ago and one of them is ripped. The other side presumably were installed in 05 and still kicking. I too am not looking forward to another CV refresh. Tho my supplier has better then the chinese this time...


Did you use clamps on the boots?
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Did you use clamps on the boots?

^^ what he said ^^

I'm at 10 years/60k miles on the EMPI boots, still with no cracks, and I never clamped the boot to the axle. The clamp is on the boot, but not clamped down
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tristessa wrote:
asiab3 wrote:
Did you use clamps on the boots?

^^ what he said ^^

I'm at 10 years/60k miles on the EMPI boots, still with no cracks, and I never clamped the boot to the axle. The clamp is on the boot, but not clamped down


I'm at 2 years and 25k with them. The clamps do not allow the rubber to flex and form on their own. Clamping them down pulls and pushes the rubber unnecessarily every wheel rpm.
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2014 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No clamps at all.

If you look at the clamp collar those are completely rotten. They've been cracked since a year on so I knew they'd be torn soon enough.
The range of motion on these joints is so minimal that they should last forever!

The rubber is just substandard for the application.

You can get crap in a Meyle, lobro, and empi box so who do we go to now?


Boxes are apparently worthless as far as determining quality anymore because they tend to put whatever piece of crap they want in it. Your empis were good but who's to say the empis I order will be the same? It's a total f'n crapshoot no one knows if they got good stuff until a year later...by then that box might've changed suppliers.

I'm down for paying good money on boots made in Germany or on this continent so this is the last time I have to do this.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chazz, how soon do you need boots? I'm flying to Finland on the 18th, and there's a good-sized auto parts store not far from one of my hotels .. that I was already planning to check out. Twisted Evil
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chazz79
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope to be driving again in two weeks. Hitting the drive ins in a tiguan is pretty lame.

No bus=crap summer
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chazz79 wrote:
No bus=crap summer

Ain't that the truth. Shocked

No idea what the "good" boots are anymore .. for a while word was that Rockford made good ones, but I haven't heard their name in some time.

I'll still see what they've got at Osahankinta in Turku, maybe bring home a few sets if something looks promising. Unlike booze, CV boots can go in the carry-on. Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good deal,


No baseball, softball or anything else tonight so I had time to slide the engine/trans up in it. The thing fit like a glove! I just had to remove a notch from the bell housing bridge area near the thermostat housing to get the engine to rest level.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You could avoid cutting by using a 1.9 wbx cooling system but then you can't use the easy to find a/c parts and the whole works becomes a cluster. But anyone wanting to go an easily reversed water cooled setup could slot one of these in cheap.
I re-used the side brackets I fabbed up for the for swap just flipped them over to compensate for the wider vanagon bar. Weird thing is everything lined up! I just have one hole to drill per side and it's mounted just as solid as it would be in a vanagon. I spent an hour on it today including crudely hacking out the offending crossmember chunk and there she be.
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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So I'm pretty happy with the fit and the work room compared to the cramped space I had to work with before. I'll be able to get right down to wiring and plumbing. This will be the most non-swap "swap" possible.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wiring is complete but easier than putting in the 2.3. Everything is mounted as it would be in the vanagon, no wires need shortened or removed. The firewall junction box has all of the connections the head to the vehicle. The rest is standalone for the engine. Two wires are necessary, a black and red/black stripe- supply those with key on volts and the digifant is ready to go. The harness has a plug to feed the fuel pump and the one I had was sufficient. So it's a simple plug and play and really the first time I've broke out a Bentley in forever on this thing. It's nice to have it quasi-stock.

I'm waiting for a thermostat housing and some other bits to get the cooling system hooked up then I'm done.

I can't wait...every weekend hitting the drive ins in a tiguan really blows.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I put in the 2.3 it crowded out everything. My thoughts were why fix rust where no one will see it. I just hosed the engine bay with undercoating and por15. It was ugly.

The battery boxes will stay that way because I'm not body working the back side of my patch panels. I did want to bring back a little vw-ness with this so this was the days work.
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I welded up all of my now unused firewall holes and added nutserts for the vanagon junction box. There are others along the firewall that hold the harness up as it feeds across this area. I had some paint made up at carquest in my code for this small job...it was 25.00 for the rattle can. Pricey, but it is an option for those of you with a store in your area.
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I'm working on some sheet metal to surround the engine. I know it doesn't need it for cooling but it'll finish off the area bad make this t5 look like it belongs in the t4's hole. This time around I'd like it to look like vw put it in there.

Undercoating sucks. It took lots of carb cleaner, aircraft stripper and effort to get it off. I'd kick my own ass if my foot could reach that far. Bad idea Brick wall Brick wall
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I'm trying to decide what direction to go with my Westerner, I'm going to follow your thread.

This seems like an option, too... Dammit, too many options!

Very Happy
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