This could possibly be a stupid question: Brake Beelding issues.

[Ordo]

Mornin' all!

At the risk of asking a stupid question, here goes:

I have a '68 Deluxe (Nov. '67) which i'm trying to restore.

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the brakes and bleeding them.
I'm using a non 'separated' main brake cillinder (two brakeline connections, one front, one back):

When i started to bleed the brakes i started at the rear right wheel, after a thousand plus stomps on the brakepedal i just heard air coming out of the bleed nipple but no fluids.

Tried rear left, same story.

Then i tried the front right and left and they bled just fine!

So i disconnected the rear brake line from the cillinder and pressed the brakepedal and saw fluid coming out of the cillinder, so that's good right? Then connected the brakeline to the master cillinder again and after a lot of brakepedal pressing, still no fluids.

Disconnected the brakeline at the rear t-section, and saw no fluids coming out, pressed the pedal again, still no fluids.

So somebody suggested replacing the lines with copper instead of the steel ones i have now, so i did.

But the problem still exists? what am i doing wrong? or could this still be the master cillinder?
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It does not matter how slow you go, as long as you don't stop

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'68 T2A Deluxe
'66 Notchback
'65 Deluxe Beetle

[pioneer1]

I have always bench bled a new master cylinder to get everything working.
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"Always waiting for tomorrow ruined everything"

'85 Porsche 911 Targa

'76 Westfalia project

[Wildthings]

The bleeders need to be closed while you are pumping and then opened while the pedal is kept held down. You don't release the pedal until the bleeder has been closed again. This is a two person job.

There are other ways to bleed that do not require a second person.

[Ordo]

[NakMuayD]

when I'm not getting fliud out of the line, i remove the bleed valve from the wheel cylinder and get my hand pump mini vacuum kit and attach a cone tip to the vacuum hose and shove it in the wheel cylinder bleeder hole. then hand pump like crazy.. you'll eventually get a sputter..then go run ad fill up the reservoir.

i would do this for both right and left rear first, then when you have fluid coming out of both (doesn't have to be a lot) then screw the bleeder valves back in and start with the traditional pedal-pump method at the right-rear.

this even works in my womans 2015 wrangler


$25 at harbor freight 100% worth it for this type of sht job
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

the other option you have is going to a medical supply store and getting a 60-100cc plastic tip syringe, fill it up with brake fluid, remove the bleeder valve and reverse bleed the system... i had to do this that old punk ass Harley of mine.. it works, but it takes longer becuase you pushing a lot of 'thick' fluid thru a small hole.. make sure the plastic tip on the syringe is not to big to fit in the bleeder hole before buying it... the syringe in your combustion chamber cc kit will work just fine
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1966 Sunroof T1
1981 El Camino
2015 JKU

gone but not forgotten: '70, '71, '73, and '74 Bugs | '81 Ironhead | '13 Monster 796 | '93 El Dog

[tcmia]

Thanks for these tips. I am having similar difficulties.

[Zed999]

If you don't adjust the rear shoes first you'll pump and get nowhere.

[Zed999]

If you don't adjust the rear shoes first you'll pump and get nowhere.

[Ordo]