That DAMNED choke cable winding stuck in chassis HELP!

drpete · Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:04 pm Post subject:

I had a similar problem with the choke cable in my '60 bus. Time and patience and a lot of Kroil helped. I even put an air compressor line and tried blowing some of the Kroil up in there. Another trick taught to me...take another piece of choke casing (the coiled wire) and push it up into the tube and turn it slowly with a drill attached. The idea isn't to drill out the line, but to catch (hook) the end of the broken cable in there with your piece, then pull slowly. If you can get the end out of the tube just a little, you can start to work it. I got mine out over the course of a few weeks, piece by little piece. Each time I got some of the wiring in the casing exposed, I'd pull as much as possible, then use my drill on it at slow speed and go forward and reverse and pulling to slowly dislodge. Mine broke at least 5-6 times, so I would re-hook it and pull. It'll come. Just takes time. You might want to try some of that really good Tequila John talked about in another thread Razz

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GüteAndTite · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:30 am Post subject:

can anyone tell me where to buy kroil LOCALLY? i can only find a website that sells it! hmmm. im in san diego, ca. any big box stores carry it?
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johnshenry · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:12 am Post subject:

I've never found it locally, always order it online. I get one spray can and one "liquid" can.
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VWwerks · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 11:20 am Post subject:

You have to get it online, if stores carried it they would never sell another can of WD40 or PB blaster, etc. EVER.
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johnshenry · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:00 pm Post subject:

Splitdog · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:30 pm Post subject:

Where's locally? I know a store here in orange County that carries it.
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ZENVWDRIVER · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: choke cable

i am not as patient or as anel as most, i guess. i just ran a newer choke cable in a black sheithing under all my carpet down the side of the center hump and into the engine compartment about a dozen years ago on my Zwitter and it looks great cause you can't see it, is out of the weather and still works fine. Just because an original design may suck, doesn't mean i will perpetuate that flaw.

drpete · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:59 pm Post subject:

JorgeDavidson · Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:20 pm Post subject:

I have a similar problem in left heather tube. I can see the point of the cable inside the heather control tower. If PDblaster doesn´t work, and WD40 is only useful as a hand soap... wich´s the best way to replace any chassis tube? Please, make a tutorial w/ pics and go Sticky!!! Wink

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nlorntson · Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:40 am Post subject:

We had a similar problem with the heater cable tube. A combination of RostOff, a length of old clutch cable and a drill worked wonders to clean out the tube.

Load the tube with a rust inhibitor of your choice (Kroil, PB Blaster, RostOff...) thread the clutch cable (or other similar stiff stranded wire) down the tube and attach the end in the drill (like a drill bit).

Operate the drill in whatever direction you need to to keep the cable turning in the direction it was wound so it frays just enough at the end to provide a wire wheel of sorts. Work the cable in and out while operating the drill a a low speed. Keep applying the rust inhibitor.

I did this with all the tubes on a 55 and 49 chassis we were restoring and it really did the trick. No more rusty stuff coming out the tubes, especially the fuel line.

The other thing I would recommend is to pressure test each line once they are open. Use a long snouted air line and something to block off the other end. Wouldn't want to find a rusted through fuel line.

GüteAndTite · Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:09 am Post subject:

JorgeDavidson · Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:39 pm Post subject:

I was working today on my choke tube; no PDBlaster, no drills or dremel w/cables worked. I cut it 3 inc. before the rear outside, just under the gearshift coupler cover. When I saw the inside of tube, I thought in all the time I spent:
Removing it from the 3in piece of tube was a nightmare. The choke wrapping broke in pieces when I tried to pull. Finally it got out w/ a hammer and a rod (just imagine doin´ that in the whole tube!!!) The plastic that cover the wrapping is still compriming out the tube and rusty wrapping. Impossible job for any penetrating oil...
In short, I´ll don´t think twice: cleaning it (in my car) is not possible. The final solution is removing the old tube and don´t get mad. I was too greasy to take the camera to the garage, but tonight I´ll take some pics to show you what I´m talking about...

Ask: The choke cable is wrapped and coated... what if I put it inside the channel without any tube (just catched to accelerator or clutch tube)???
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1957 Oval Window - Polar Silver L324
2008 VW Suran Trendline

VWwerks · Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:15 pm Post subject:

You could just zip tie it to the clutch tube. Get really long zip ties and tie it by the pedal assembly hole, shifter hole, and rear trans hole. I have put in new fuel lines this way also.
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JorgeDavidson · Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:59 pm Post subject:

bill may · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:11 am Post subject:

JorgeDavidson · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:57 am Post subject:

Bart Dunn · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:35 pm Post subject:

VWwerks · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:16 pm Post subject:

mcmaster.com

Search steel tubing.

Jim
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Motorhead55 · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:55 pm Post subject:

Snort · Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:16 pm Post subject:

I've seen people talk about replacing this tube, but I don't understand how it is done without taking apart the floorpan tunnel. Does anyone have any photos or explanation on how this is done? I've been soaking my cable for over a year now, and it still will not budge.


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That DAMNED choke cable winding stuck in chassis HELP!
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