Clean Oil Bath Filter

68IHscout · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 12:38 pm Post subject:

Just wondering ,does I have to be 30weight oil ,or can any engine oil be used? Thanks

Randy in Maine · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject:

Any engine oil is fine. Clean oil is best.

68IHscout · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject:

50 Kafer · Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:48 am Post subject:

I'll just throw this in, there is a guy in Ca. offering rebuild services for '67 oil bath cleaners. www.1967beetle.com
_________________
John
1950 Kafer Deluxe (10/50)
1955 Beetle Deluxe (6/55)
1968 Beetle (11/67)
1982 Westy
1986 Cabriolet (6/86)
WTB Air-Camping roof top mount http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1499947

dualref · Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:35 am Post subject:

AirCooledArtifacts · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:58 pm Post subject:

tikitime · Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:23 am Post subject:

munana1 · Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 9:51 am Post subject: Oil bath filter

If you don't feel comfortable cleaning your filter, there is a website that offers to go through it completely or you buy one from them almost brand new for around $225.00 , the website is: 1967beetle.storevny.com

AirCooledArtifacts · Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 10:16 am Post subject: Re: Oil bath filter

minimember · Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:15 pm Post subject: oil bath filter question!!!

I have a quick question on a VW that I recently purchased. It has an oil bath filter that has two valves... the weighted one and the cable. From what I read the cable is suppose to control the valve that lets in heat from around the exhaust, and the weighted controls the fresh air flow, yes??? Ok, so I don't have a cable hooked up to that valve and their is no hose attached to that inlet for it. I also noticed that the weighted valve was installed incorrect, so that it was closed at all times...yikes!!!

I'm not going worry about installing the cable right now because I live in a pretty much continuous warm climate, and I was able to get the weighted valve out and installed properly (so that the flow of air opens the valve and not keeping it closed)

My main question is this: Should I make the cable valve stay open or closed for my needs right now?...As it rests right now, with no cable attached the valve wants to stay open and allow air in from the end of the housing...i'm not sure what function that serves, and if it would be better left closed. I also assume that I should block the warm air inlet for the exhaust hose as well...help help help

sb001 · Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:56 pm Post subject:

Make it stay open.

From Rob and Dave:

http://www.vw-resource.com/air_cleaner.html#pull

AirCooledArtifacts · Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:57 pm Post subject:

ROCKOROD71 · Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 6:41 am Post subject:

"I was able to get the weighted valve out and installed properly"

How the hell did you do this? I have asked others with no response. I have spent many wasted hours attemping to pull the flaps out, trying to be careful not to break the plastic inserts that hold them in...I just don't get it. Do I have to pry apart the entire lower half of the oil bath to work on these flaps???
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

AirCooledArtifacts · Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:14 am Post subject:

1970VWGUY · Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:46 pm Post subject:

My problem is...since I just bought the car and everything was already done...I have no idea if the fan housing flaps are even there...since it's southern car...the guy that did the motor may have eliminated them.

Do you think it's a possibility that anyone rebuilding an engine would remove the flaps..aren't they somewhat critical to the overall operation?

Tim Donahoe · Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 2:40 pm Post subject:

Look under the engine on the passenger side. You'll be looking in the area just under where the heads and cylinders join. You can see the four pushrod tubes there also. There is, hopefully, a piece of engine tin that's blocking most of your sight line--but you can see up in there from the back, okay.

Between the pushrod tubes there will be a rod that's attached to a small, round accordian-type gizmo. It's about the size of an egg--but barrel-shaped. That's your engine thermostat. If you don't have this arrangement, you probably don't have the shroud flaps that the thermostat regulates.

Tim

aprophet · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:14 pm Post subject:

vamram · Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject:

air-h2o-air · Samba Member Joined: January 25, 2015 Posts: 579

Many decades ago...a beer distributor bought several(at least 10, I cant remember) Type II trucks for their deliveries. Upon a very short period of time..EVERY truck had the engine wiped out...cyl walls scored, pistons ate up severely. What was the cause? GRIT in the engines....the area these trucks were operated was Arkansas..that area has a very very fine silt that blows through the air. Back then many roads were not paved which also created more of this fine silt in the air. Where did this grit come from??? Right through the air filter. As stated about oil bath air filters for many many decades..they filter large rocks and that is about it. You may ask as to why I tell such a story? I worked at 424-000...many will know what those 6 numbers mean. Smile


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