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Orangeena Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 133 Location: Berkshire - UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:51 am Post subject: Foam/Rubber pads around door latches |
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Hello,
I just got a pair of dry doors supposedly from Australia (but I think they are Cal from the paint wear pattern on the left side one).
They fit great but I need to move all of the hardware from my old rusty doors.
When I cleaned up the 'new' doors there were foam rubber pads behind the door cards just around the levers with which you open the doors from the inside.
They turned to dust on contact hence the absence of photo's!
My question is, what purpose did they serve and can I live without them?
Cheers
Max _________________ 1973 Bay in L20B
- Originaly a panel van
- Partial Westy Interior
- Viking Spacemaker roof
- Slider of a donor bus
- Doors imported from Australia
- 22nd Owner ! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:38 am Post subject: |
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They stop the icy draft from the door handle in the winter, if you don't care about a draft leave them out, if not any light weatherstripping or foam will do.
Make sure you install the plastic sheeting on the door before the door card goes on and the inner flap is tucked into the door structure though, I'm sure your bus will see some rain or get washed now and then. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Orangeena Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 133 Location: Berkshire - UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:04 am Post subject: |
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Thanks busdaddy. I can probably cope with the draft!
Good call about the plastic though. The original was torn to shreads and glued on to the door itself. Is this how it is done? And who sells these or does one just fashion them out of polythene?
Max _________________ 1973 Bay in L20B
- Originaly a panel van
- Partial Westy Interior
- Viking Spacemaker roof
- Slider of a donor bus
- Doors imported from Australia
- 22nd Owner ! |
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theizzardking Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2097 Location: seattle
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:27 am Post subject: |
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why don't they make repo panels from like say abs or some other polymer?
seems like it would be far better than the board, esp if you live in rainy washington. _________________ "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
'71 westie "the wanderer" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:44 am Post subject: |
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Waterproof or not you need the inner flap or all the water that gets in the door goes directly on the area beside the seat belt attach point.
Here's how VW did it:
I use thin poly and repositionable spray glue or spray contact cement. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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theizzardking Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2097 Location: seattle
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:47 am Post subject: |
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yea i just cut mine last week and failed to do this step
looks like i need to pull them back off again! _________________ "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
'71 westie "the wanderer" |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50260
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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I use greenhouse poly when replacing the original vapor barrier, the plastic new furniture comes wrapped in also works well. Both are heavier and more resistant to the elements than the cheap 4 or 6 mil stuff you get from a hardware store or lumber yard.
I would also like to eliminate the bottom dog leg from the door panel, as it seems to be the first part to begin to get moisture damage. Getting rid of all the cardboard would be great as well.
Has anyone tried covering their cardboard panels with shellac of some other waterproofing?
I would not eliminate the little pieces of foam around the release levers, they are going to help keep warm air from entering the door cavities. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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ccpalmer Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3850 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back. |
I just did a door session and replaced my foam backings as well; I used some foam that came in an air conditioning weatherstripping package. Easy to cut to size. Note there should also be foam behind the window crank. In addition to keeping out drafts, I suspect the foam helps keep the door cards from vibrating.
I used I think 3 mil plastic sheeting from Home Depot for my replacement vapor barrier. I ended up using oik-based caulk to attach it; no luck with contact cement or silicone glue. And easy to apply with a caulk gun.
Hopefully I won't need to get behind that plastic for a while now! _________________ '71 Westy |
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ccpalmer Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3850 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back. |
Oh yea - and GREAT idea!! _________________ '71 Westy |
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ned Samba Member
Joined: June 28, 2004 Posts: 1574 Location: Arroyo Grande Ca.
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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"Gaskacinch" The same stuf used on the valve cover gaskets at valve adjustments works good too and it is easy to use. I do recommend getting yourself those little black rubber chingaderas after you install the new visqueen. It really helps keep the door panel in place. they are kinda pricey for what they are but if you do your doors once and right the first time you won`t need to screw around with them again for a long while |
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Orangeena Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 133 Location: Berkshire - UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks everyone. I will attempt to source some foam rubber from somewhere then.
Looking at the door the draft issue looks minor (I don't use the van in the cold much), but the vibrating issue could be really annoying.
So the polythene sheet has a logitudinal flap that goes on the inside and lays down over the middle door member. Is that correct?
Max _________________ 1973 Bay in L20B
- Originaly a panel van
- Partial Westy Interior
- Viking Spacemaker roof
- Slider of a donor bus
- Doors imported from Australia
- 22nd Owner ! |
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Mr. Loaf Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2005 Posts: 2098 Location: Okra, Oklahoma
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:41 am Post subject: |
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Wouldn't the plastic that you can buy and use as a tarp when painting work? It's not that expensive and seems to be the right thickness. _________________ Never drive faster than your Angel can fly
$24,100 was too hard to resist................. |
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naynay Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2008 Posts: 103 Location: Bellingham,WA
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Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, granted, I am a Flailing Newb at most of this, but out of concern for the backside of the door panels I am "restoring" -aka salvaging- I am putting ProtectoWrap on the back of them. It is a Butyl Hybrid waterproof self adhesive product used in construction to seal the area around windows and doors. I am hoping it helps as a sound deadener- so I'm slapping it on everything that doesn't get outta my way at this point! [/img] _________________ 74 Rivi
"Do not let what you cannot do interfere with what you Can do." - John Wooden |
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