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Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles
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California562
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

i'm in CA and have a 87 2WD Westy with the original engine (149k) and it's running great for now. My buddy has a Subie engine in his and he's offered to sell it to me (and do the conversion - since he did it on his before). It would cost me about 6K I believe he told me for everything. It's the smaller Subaru engine - 2.2 I believe. He wants to put in a larger Subie for his - he already has it on standby. After my stock engine croaks, what would be the best bet?
-friends Subaru 2.2 engine (running well as far as i know)- i think it has around 150k on it also - $6k total including labor; i think he'll give me a "warranty" too- since we're good friends - at least 50k more i'm sure.
Granted he has incentive to not tell me about any shortcomings as he wants to unload it so he can put in his dream engine instead
-Bostig- but 'technically' not legal in CA is that right? and if not, how likely am I to get burnt for that? would I not be able to use it again and would have to have it taken out? Bostig is 10k and up i've heard but seems fantastic.
-other engines like diesel or turbo?
I'm already saving $ up for it as is my wife since we want to be ready for when the stock engine dies. Just sux w the more limited 'legal' choices for CA folks
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jimf909 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

Agreed. The zetec is a simple motor. If a tech can troubleshoot a wbx or a 1.8T they can work on a zetec blindfolded.

That said, the 1.8T is an attractive alternative.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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WestyBob
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

In my berg there are places where the vw mechanic will service both the subie and the rest of the van mechanicals.

The only reason the 1.8T and diesels are pushed so much on the Samba is because of California (even though they can be good engine options for the enthusiasts leaning that way) where *technically* the zetec and subie 2.5 are not permitted. The subie 2.2L is permitted and can be an inexpensive option for those on a budget.
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Jon_slider
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

Chainsaw wrote:
this vs the subaru engine.


skip the 2.2 subaru

imo the Subaru 2.5 is a really good option

and the 1.8T is an outstanding option
Being all VW, if you ever need service from a shop, you dont have to dance between a VW mechanic for your van, and a different one for your motor
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

Cost to install has also increased notably over the 2009 prices quoted, think closer to $8K-$10K DIY, $15K for a pro-install.

After nearly a year and 10K miles with the Bostig, I've found it to be a notable improvement in many ways over the wbx.

There's lots more out there to read though. Enjoy!
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

Chainsaw wrote:
This is certaily interesting. Gotta do some mor reading on this vs the subaru engine.

Some of the information in this thread is old. The Bostig kit has changed quite a bit since '09. ECU is now inside the van, the Cobra intake head has replaced the long hose, etc. For now there is no turbo option, Jim is working on new power upgrades.
The power available from the two engines (EJ22 vs Zetec) is pretty close, but I would rate the Zetec engine as the more reliable.
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Chainsaw
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:27 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig Zetec Review: Install and after 2000 miles Reply with quote

This is certaily interesting. Gotta do some mor reading on this vs the subaru engine.
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ThankYouJerry
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Zetec conversion Reply with quote

sbf6463 wrote:
I'm just starting to research converting my 91 Westy automatic and Zetec has been recommended. Everything I've read so far is about converting synchros...Is the Zetec a good conversion for an automatic, as well?

Susan


Yes, they work great in 2WD autos. I think they have worked out their "vibrations in automatics issue" at this point. Those vibration issues were mostly at idle anyway not while driving and they weren't that bad regardless from what I've read.
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sbf6463
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:35 pm    Post subject: Zetec conversion Reply with quote

I'm just starting to research converting my 91 Westy automatic and Zetec has been recommended. Everything I've read so far is about converting synchros...Is the Zetec a good conversion for an automatic, as well?

Susan
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BillM
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnwater wrote:
DeadSetMonkey wrote:
so. EJ22 vs Bostig


Whattya want to know? Normally aspirated bostig power/torque was comparable to the EJ22. I installed a beta turbo kit about 10k miles ago and never looked back.



I also have a beta turbo mated to my zetec. The only thing
I look back at is to see the faces of the people I just passed!
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mtnwater
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DeadSetMonkey wrote:
so. EJ22 vs Bostig


Whattya want to know? Normally aspirated bostig power/torque was comparable to the EJ22. I installed a beta turbo kit about 10k miles ago and never looked back.
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DeadSetMonkey
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnwater wrote:
Swing - I converted my van from an EJ22 to the Bostig V2.0 zetec. Not only is it possible, I believe that in some ways it's easier than converting from the wbx. There are a few nuances that you would need to pay attention to, but as others have noted the support from Bostig guys and the other Bostig customers is fantastic. Go for it!


so. EJ22 vs Bostig
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240Gordy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crankey wrote:
Quote:
the main reason for not keeping the same side of the engine bay is the ECU box is behind the Driver's taillight.


ok, so if you have a doka then you have lots of access to the vents on either side you can do whatever works best ? cool !


and the engine compartment has a little more headroom !
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
the main reason for not keeping the same side of the engine bay is the ECU box is behind the Driver's taillight.


ok, so if you have a doka then you have lots of access to the vents on either side you can do whatever works best ? cool !
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bostig
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crankey wrote:
I don't see why the intake is running across the engine bay, why not fit the air box on the same side as the TB ?


Lot's of valid questions, the main reason for not keeping the same side of the engine bay is the ECU box is behind the Driver's taillight.

The reason for not going larger is cost + fitment + noise attenuation doesn't equal a return in performance equivalent to the effort. Someone pointed out how much time folks spend smoothing and touching up little aspects of the intake tract... we've had quite a bit of experience with head porting and our own in-house flow bench... very rarely does it make sense to do as much work as folks are willing to pay for to improve flow in most situations. Typically it's a matter of this is theoretically correct, therefore this must have a tangible effect, when in fact this is rarely the case, especially when weighed against the cost and/or effort of doing so. Compressible fuilds like air DO NOT respond or act as common sense dictate, period. Anyone that applies a flowing water metphor for instance will quickly be surprised at how little it applies and how easily they will mislead themselves.

The vast majority of money spent on even "substantial" things like head porting, are wasted because the rest of the system isn't optimized to take advantage of it... esp when it can and has been measured. Speculation is all well and good, but it yields nothing. Testing on the other hand yields substantially more. This isn't to say there aren't more solutions to the problem, but folks are paying us to make the best use of their conversion dollar, and we do what we believe that is.

Jim Akiba
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see why the intake is running across the engine bay, why not fit the air box on the same side as the TB ?
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Williamtaylor33
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting 19 around town and 22 on the highway
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Loosenut893
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of mileage does eveyone get with the Bostig?
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Crughy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not simply go with a bigger intake (except where the engine mates) and air filter.
Not like a big funnel. but simply over sized to reduce restriction.
There can't be too much air.

Why is this a pb?

JP
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnwater wrote:
vinnyvango wrote:
As an engineer (with a lot of background in fluids) I'd say it's not theoretical...It's turbulent vs. laminar flow. Most intakes are designed to "remedy" turbulent flow within a few pipe diameters.


Agree that turbulant vs. lamanir flow is real, I'm just not sure that turbulant flow through the intake is significant enough to "restrict" the intake in an appreciable way. I could be wrong.


The hotrod folks spend hundreds of hours with little grinders removing every bump in an intake tract, grinding welds smooth on exhaust headers, matching manifold gaskets to make the engine breathe well. They spend hours and hours then sit there all satisfied, with a cigarette, after removing the disruptive equivalent of one inch of that corrugated pipe.

I bet the ribbed pipe reduces the effective diameter to half that of a smooth pipe. A few HP increase might provide an mpg increase too. Smooth exhaust pipe and rubber elbows at the corners might be a lot less restrictive and low cost too. I'll bet it would be worth the effort to smooth it out. I wouldn't know what to say about the noise problem. All guesses here.

If the dyno shows only 2-4 hp, that's not very much to worry about.....considering the ease of the rest of the conversion; the intake duct is easy to deal with later. A reliable exhaust is much more important from the beginning than an intake tract. The big part is getting the engine in there, start it up and go camping. Spring is here (in the NW).
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Last edited by Sodo on Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:33 am; edited 3 times in total
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