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Replacing oil cooler seals
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Find some wavy washers at a local auto parts or hardware, they are pretty thin compared to what you have now.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 12:02 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

wbnguyen wrote:
I was thinking of using the smaller washer behind the oil cooler and the larger ones above. Sound correct?


This is scary, important, Moment Of Truth decision making. The seals require a certain crush to seal, but over-crushing them gives you leaks like you had with the old seals. Under-compressing them makes them split at inopportune times and dump all your oil all over the highway. Want to know how I know? Shocked

I personally think the VW oil cooler and oil cooler mounting was engineered with the exact crush in mind for a stock oil cooler seal. I can not speak for the EMPI seal, but every time I line up 5 lb/ft of torque on the cooler nuts (incrementally, a little bit at a time on each nut please,) the Elring seals crush down nicely. The crush under your torque wrench is definitely felt. If you use washer between the cooler and mount, then suddenly hit your torque value without a slow ramp of increasing torque, you should remove the washers. (I have never seen an engine that required washers here, but I have not seen as many T4 engines as some.) It is hard to explain this feeling without doing it, but keep in mind VW didn't put washers there, and the seals should not be over-crushed like your previous seals.

Good luck, I hope I didn't make anything less clear.
Robbie
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:02 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

This is a looooong time argument. It comes and goes here and on the STF.....for ages.

People with good experience that KNOW for a fact that the rather precise double stamped....washers.... (yes they are double stamped with no crowned side....so they are spacers...not washers) that are sometimes seen on the outside of the cooler with a wavy washer on top and the nut on top of that......also sometimes are put in BY THE FACTORY.....AS SPACERS BETWEEN COOLER AND CASE.

I have had, driven and disassembled and rebuilt...known undisturbed factory engines that use these washers as spacers between case and cooler.

The difference is in the make/manufacturing detail of the coolers. There are some manufacturing differences in how the outer plating of the coolers are wrapped and lapped before welding and some slight differences in the height of the bosses on the seal side of the coolers.

Its not a part number or year difference. Its a manufacturing tolerance difference. These ard welded or braised parts. There ard always slight,differences in production lots....just like radiators.
I cant believe there is nothing in any of the parts books. All of the ones I have found that I know for a fact came from the factory with spacers between cooler and case....were 411s or 412s. Also....not every undisturbed factory 411 or 412 I have worked on....had these washers as spacers. Some had them on the outside.

I do know...from hideous experience....that if you change the configuration from how the cooler originally came ...whether the washers were inside or out....it generally leaks from the seals.

These seals gendrally,require about,25-30% crush...maximum. You can,dry fit the cooler...measure the gap with clay with the washer inside or out and get an idea of what your cooler will require.

But...do not blindly state...across the board that the double stamped medium sized washer (about 13mm).....definitively goes on one side of the cooler or the other...because you dont know that definitively. Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Awesome! thanks for the info guys!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

wbnguyen wrote:
Awesome! thanks for the info guys!!!


The seals you took out look to be incorrect. That is likely why you are here taking them out. As a matter of fact, I would be interested to know if the holes are smaller than the new seals, those old ones look like the transitional 10/8mm stepped seals used on Type 1 engines with old gallery sizes and new cooler size.

The EMPI seals look to have the correct profile.

Don't get all over-compensating on the assembly because you don't want a leak. The reason for your leak is evident.

With the correct seals, and a proper Type 4 cooler, you do not insert any spacer between the cooler and the mounting area. You *do* use the big washers against the cooler itself and the little wavy washers betwixt the big washers and the mounting nuts, and you *do* use a torque wrench to the specified torque. Then check again after several minutes.

Now, some have said that they do not use the outer oil cooler bracket that bolts to the fan housing. I sure do.
ColinNeverHadAT4CoolerLeakByGum
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:26 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

wbnguyen wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have argued with Ray about using the thin washer as a spacer before and will argue with Colin now that sometimes a spacer is needed. I don't care if the washer on the right in this picture is correct or not, but if you compress the seal on the left down as far as the one on the right at best it will end up looking like the one on the right with time and at worst either the seal will split and/or the cooler will be damaged. The other negative possibility is that the nuts will tighten down just against the squish of the seal instead of the cooler bottoming out against the case which over time will lead to the nuts coming loose.

I will go back to the frequently seen argument that VW did nothing without a cause and it would seem pointless to supply an extra washer under each nut unless that washer was at times needed, though I still can't see a reason for them using the odd stepped washer as it must have cost several times what a plain flat washer would have.

Install the cooler with no shins or seal and then use feeler gauges to determine the space between the cooler and the opposing surface. As Ray suggests you probably want about 25-30% squish in the seal so the thickness of any added spacer should be easy enough to figure out.


Last edited by Wildthings on Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

wbnguyen wrote:
So im in the process of doing my oil cooler seals and want to make sure everything is OK.


Can you post a pic of the oil cooler? The side the seals go on.

Good luck
Tcash

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pn.aspx?sku=12883...Apja8P8HAQ

http://www.bughaus.com/oil9.htm

http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/LateBaywindow/008-00-1-022.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:08 pm    Post subject: Oil cooler seals Reply with quote

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/oilcool.htm
http://classicvw.org/gallery2/d/13174-7/oil+cooler+seals.jpg
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/oil_cooler_seals/2b.jpg
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/EarlyBaywindow/1-032.jpg
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/EarlyBaywindow/1-033.jpg
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/LateBaywindow/008-00-1-022.jpg

Please note: If your oil cooler has little or no Raised boss, use the spacer washers between the oil cooler and the adapter/case.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by Tcash on Mon Dec 07, 2015 5:30 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Tcash, it might be worth editing that Bookwus pic to include some text showing that the controversial copper washers were, well, incorrect in that case. That picture might get posted/referenced elsewhere, and it would be handy to include that caption.

I assembled my engine according to his picture, since I couldn't find any info in Wilson or Bentley, and it blew two cooler seals all at once out on the highway. The two remaining seals were cracking and ballooning out, but hadn't cracked yet. I was steadfast in my cleaning, torquing, and assembling, but they still blew out because of the extra seal space. Of course, this is on a T1 engine, but the same physics apply: an under-crushed seal will not last.

Robbie


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 4:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Huh, a washer is supposed to go down there? well shit
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 6:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Tcash, it might be worth editing that Bookwus pic to include some text showing that the controversial copper washers were, well, incorrect in that case. That picture might get posted/referenced elsewhere, and it would be handy to include that caption.

I assembled my engine according to his picture, since I couldn't find any info in Wilson or Bentley, and it blew two cooler seals all at once out on the highway. The two remaining seals were cracking and ballooning out, but hadn't cracked yet. I was steadfast in my cleaning, torquing, and assembling, but they still blew out because of the extra seal space. Of course, this is on a T1 engine, but the same physics apply: an under-crushed seal will not last.

Robbie


An over crushed seal will not last either. IMO when an old seal is removed it should show little or no permanent deformation.

Take a low quality seal like the EMPI's the OP showed and crush it way down and it is very likely to crack.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Tcash, it might be worth editing that Bookwus pic to include some text showing that the controversial copper washers were, well, incorrect in that case. That picture might get posted/referenced elsewhere, and it would be handy to include that caption.

I assembled my engine according to his picture, and it blew two cooler seals all at once out on the highway.


I got 1,500 miles before the Bookwus Errant Spacer Washer seals blew out. Down the street from Interstate Parts in Lake Elsinore CA, I had to take the engine out and strip the fan housing off on a curb.

These are avoidable errors. I follow the directions. I have not had an oil cooler seal failure on my or any of my customers' engines, which at this point, is a lot of engines.

wbnguyen, PLEASE measure that horrid little seal on the RIGHT
X ..... X
and see if it is a SMALLER inner diameter than the seal on the left X..... X
in the photograph. This could be interesting.
Colin

(thanks for the photographs, Tcash, thousand words and all . . . )
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Hey guys! sorry for the late response, been tackling a dead fuel pump issue. So in response to the oil seal ID, here is a photo as I already had thrown the old ones out so i couldn't measure. The Empi does have a larger ID. It did fit in well and ill try to get some pictures but forgot while engine was out. Looks like it fit just fine.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I used the smaller washer between block and cooler and larger between cooler and nut.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I'll let you know how it works out. so far no leaks but I've only warmed up the bus @ idle, so far so good.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 2:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

I hope everything works out. If it blows, it won't at idle, but at a 4,000 RPM hill climb when the oil hasn't fully warmed up.

I was rereading Bentley about this yesterday, and they mention checking your oil relief and control pistons if you have consistent leaks at pressurized fittings or parts.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Tcash, it might be worth editing that Bookwus pic to include some text showing that the controversial copper washers were, well, incorrect in that case.
Robbie


Good point.
Edited last post.

Bookwus pic.
Red seals. Note standoffs: So the copper spacers are not needed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks
Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 4:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

I always hate getting in a head knock with Colin. Tons of experience there. But....I have a ton of miles an experience with type 4's myself. I dont put forth information I dont know to be true. Is it correct?....hard to say with the years and variations. Far too many details on how these engines were built...assembly line technique etc....is not in the books.

I think what is going on here is that far too many people are assuming that :
A. The oil coolers are all the EXACT same dimensions
B. That the cases are all machined to the EXACT same dimensions.
C. That (as people are mentioning) that the correct oil cooler seals are even the EXACT same dimension from make to make

I took some pictures for your perusal. I had to dig for a while to get both of these sets of parts up on the bench.
These are two engine cases from my collection of five on hand. Both of them are from type 4 cars.

The one dated 4-72 is from a 1972 411 (my very first car).

The second one dated 11-72 is from a 1973 412....my current two door that is about to get rebuilt.

Both of these cars I bought as the second owner...and i personally KNEW the first owner and have complete service history on both cars and engines. The 412's history is so complete that I have every scrap of paper ever generated on it back to the assembly line printout. It was picked up as a tourist car in Germany, driven in France and Norway and shipped back here by the Airforce.

The 411 was acquired at 55k miles running and driving.....and the 412 at about 75k miles not running. The engine had never been out of either according to the original owners and the paperwork.

ONE engine (the 412 case)......had the thick washers between the oil cooler and the case....from the factory. Neither had leaky oil coolers....the 412 had a leaking oil pressure switch and a leaking fan seal....all original.

However.....because of the differences in the coolers...coupled with the differences in the cases.... the cooler from the 11-1972 VW 412 ...will seal on the later 412 case using the washers. Without them the seals look like pancakes.
The 4-72 cooler from the 411 WILL SEAL on the earlier 411 case it came from....with no washers between cooler and case.

But...if you put the 411 cooler on the 412 case....it squishes the seals. If you put the 412 cooler on the 411 case the seals are too loose.
this can be judged easily by whether the seals can be rotated with any amount of pressure by using a pick when the cooler is installed using the washer between case and cooler.

Both cases are EA series.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The gasket set I pulled the seals from is a 10 year old Victor Reinz set

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Seals

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The cases I am looking at. Both EA series.

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The FACTORY washers. If anyone thinks these are ordinary stamped washers....think again. These are double "blanked" or double stamped. Perfectly flat on both sides. No crowning whatsoever, and zinc plated. They are also about .070" thick ( I forgot to measure I will post actual thickness later). They are built like spacers Wink

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

the 411 oil cooler 4-72 date stamp

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the 412 oil cooler 11-72 date stamp

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The early case with the washers and seals on it even though it came without them...just so you can see the spacer dimension difference next to the seal.

So....the amount of crush that will be applied to the seal...with these spacers installed....will largely be about the height of the bosses on the cooler itself...AND....THE HEIGHT OF THE THIRD BOSS ON THE CASE....WHICH MANY TIMES GIVES A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF TILT TO THE COOLER...AND GREATLY INCREASES/DECREASES CRUSH

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make note...this is the 4-72 oil cooler from the 411. The bosses are thicker and the lip created by the lapped and welded cover plate are also slightly thicker as compared to the 4-12 cooler below.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make note: the boss areas where the 5mm rods are threaded in are all machined in one pass. I dont know if the seal recesses are bored before or after this pass....but this is most probably where differences in seal fit come from. Those differences in seal fit along with oil cooler differences an make the difference in the need for a "spacer" or not.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the late case that came with washers as spacers between cooler and case. Note the height of the machine work bosses arrowed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the early case without spacers between cooler and case.....but they were present on the outside under the wavy washer.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the early case. with no washers and the oil cooler that came with and the higher bosses. This cooler seal crushes enough that you cannot spin it without ripping it with a pick. Plenty of seal.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the late case with late cooler and spacers between the cooler and case...again...the seal cannot be spun and has plenty of crush for sealing.

Definitive...uh...no.
Just goes to show that there are differences. I have chalked this one up long ago to one of the same problems I see on assembly lines of many types that I visit all the time.

A minor variation gets seen during the assembly process that come and goes. It may be a variation caused by component differences (like oil cooler variation or seal variation)...or one caused by an upstream machine process.

Either way its quick enough to fix and something that needs to be found on each engine by test fit during assembly (just like differences in piston pin fit wherein the employee keeps a range of pins in groups close by to work with the occasional tight or loose fitting pin that may be .0001" to ,0002" different... instead of calling quality control and making an engineering change.

I am...speculating...that enough come and go differences happened with oil cooler and seal fit....that they swapped in spacers instead of regular flat washers in the "kit" for this stage assembly. Depending on seal fit...they either go on the inside as spacers if needed or the outside as simple washers if not. No need to go calling anyone or digging around for a different cooler.

The fact that they are NOT using a NORMAL flat washer by any means....leads into this. I mean...come on...do you really think that a 6mm stud with 5-8 ft lbs on it requires a .080" thick washer? Wink

In both cases in my collection...I would say neither fit with or without spacer is perfect....one could be slightly more crush and one could be slightly less. Both are perfectly functional. Ray
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Work in Progress


#1 red seal and #2 black seal come up with the same part #111198151, 1946-69, Oil Cooler Seal, Single Port, 8mm X 8mm.

The Black seal is for the oil cooler with the stepped boss at the 6mm mounting studs.
Would I be correct in saying that the #1 seal is for the oil cooler with the flat mounting surface?

Does anyone have the engine number when this change occurred?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Thank you
Tcash


Last edited by Tcash on Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:29 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 12:37 am    Post subject: Oil cooler seals ID T2 Reply with quote

To link to this thread copy and paste
Code:
[url=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7909645#7909645]Oil cooler seals T2[/url]


There are Four things you need to know to choose the correct Oil cooler seals.
1. Does the Case have 8mm or 10mm oil passages?
2. Does the Oil cooler have 8mm or 10mm oil holes?
3. Are the Oil cooler holes Flush or Countersunk?
4. Is the Oil cooler mounting surface Flat or have Raised Bosses

-----1st----- Does the Case have 8mm or 10mm oil passages?
Type I-II-III cases.
Single relieve cases have 8mm oil passages.
Dual relieve cases have 10mm oil passages
Type IV cases.
All have 10mm oil passages.

------------------Dual relieve=10mm Passages--------------------------------------------Single relieve=8mm Passages
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Type IV cases all have 10mm oil passages.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


-----2nd----- Does the Oil cooler have 8mm or 10mm oil holes?
Due to the variety of oil coolers. It is necessary to measure the oil cooler holes. If you do not have a Metric ruler. Compare the hole to the open end of a 10mm wrench.

Type I-II and early TypeIII oil coolers.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Early Type III 8mm oil cooler.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Doghouse adapters and oil coolers are all 10mm.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Type III came with 8mm and 10mm oil coolers.
Note the fitting for the oil switch. This identifies this as a type III oil cooler.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Type IV & 914 are 10mm oil coolers.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


-----3rd----- Are the Oil cooler holes Flush or Countersunk?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


-----4th----- Is the Oil cooler mounting surface Flat or does it have Raised Bosses around the mounting studs/holes?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



-----Choosing the correct Oil Cooler Seals-----
Ok now you know what size the engine Case oil passages and the Oil cooler holes are.
You know if the oil cooler holes are flush or countersunk and if the Oil cooler mounting surface is Flat or has Raised Bosses.

Let's take a look at the seals. As you can see. The same seal can be many different colors. So color is no indication of what the seal fits. It is the style and inner diameter of the hole that determines what the seal fits.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#5 8mm to 10mm Conversion seal kit. 111-198-029
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


1. 8mm to 8mm aka Barrel seal (short) 111-117-151
8mm case to 8mm cooler with flush oil hole and Flat mounting. No spacer washers.
2. 8mm to 8mm aka Barrel seal (long) 111-117-151
8mm case to 8mm cooler with Countersunk oil hole and raised oil cooler mounting boss.
Can also be used with Countersunk oil cooler hole and Flat oil cooler mounting, but Must use spacer washers.
3. 10mm to 10mm aka Saturn, Ribbed or Flying saucer seal 021-117-151A
1970 10mm case to 10mm cooler
1971-up 10mm case to 10mm Doghouse adapter and 10mm Adapter to 10mm cooler. Total of 4 seals needed.
Type III 10mm case to 10mm cooler
Type IV 10mm case to 10mm cooler
4. 8mm to 8mm aka Type III only seal 311 117 151
8mm case to 8mm Type III oil cooler. Must use spacer washers.
5. 8mm to 10mm aka Conversion seals 111-198-029
Used to mount a 10mm oil cooler to a 8mm case.
With a Flat oil cooler mounting surface, use the three spacer washers.
With a Raised oil cooler mounting surface, Do not use spacer washers.
or
Used to mount a 8mm oil cooler to a 10mm case.This is not recommended. If you have a 10mm case get a 10mm oil cooler.
With a Flat oil cooler mounting surface, use the three spacer washers.
With a Raised oil cooler mounting surface, Do not use spacer washers.



-----By Part Number
111-117-151 Barrel seal (short) 8mm to 8mm
1946-? 8mm single relieve case to Flush oil cooler hole and Flat mounting. no spacers.
111-117-151 Barrel seal (long) 8mm to 8mm
19?-69 8mm Dual relieve case to 8mm Raised oil cooler no spacers.
Can also be used with Flat oil cooler with the addition of the spacers.
311 117 151 Type III only 8mm to 8mm
19?-69 8mm Single relieve case to 8mm oil cooler. Must use spacers.
021-117-151A Saturn, Ribbed seal 10mm to 10mm
1970 10mm Dual relieve case to 10mm oil cooler.
1971-79 Type I-II 10mm Dual relieve case to 10mm Doghouse adapter and 10mm adapter to 10mm Doghouse oil cooler. Total of 4 seals needed.
Type III 10mm Dual relieve case to 10mm oil cooler. No spacers.
Type IV 10mm case to 10mm oil cooler

-----OIL COOLER SEAL INSTALLATION-----
Ok so you have chosen the correct seals. Now to install them correctly.
Uncleanliness Leads to Leaks

TOOLS
0-60 in/lbs Torque wrench, 6mm or 8mm socket, 6mm or 8mm obstruction wrench, ratchet.
SUPPLIES
Nylon-Insert locknuts nuts 6mm or 8mm: we are talking 5 ft/lbs - 60 in/lbs of torque. The Nylon-Insert locknuts are added insurance.
Brake cleaner: used initially to degrease and clean the case and oil cooler. Should not damage the paint on the engine tins, test in obscure place, just in case. Not all brake cleaners are the same.
75% isopropyl alcohol is safe to use on Rubber and Silicone seals and leaves no residue. Can be found at a drugstore.
Rubber or Latex gloves: keep your cotton picking fingers off the seals and parts. The oils and moisture in your skin will leave contaminants on the parts. If the gloves are powdered clean them with isopropyl alcohol before you get started.
Lint free pads or rags: leave no lint behind. Which will eventually cause a leak. Surprisingly nail wipes, used for removing fingernail polish, comes in a lint free variety. Or lint free rags that can be found at your local paint or hardware store.
O'ring Lubricant: helps the seal seat properly and reduces failures do to abrasion. Note: No grease is better than the wrong grease.
Super Lube Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease prt# 21030 and Sil-Glyde O-Ring Lubricant prt# SGO-2. Can be used with Rubber or Silicone seals. Walmart carries Super Lube.
In the absence of the above Grease.
Rubber seals, use a silicone based grease.
Silicone seals, use a synthetic based grease. Do not use grease with silicone in it. The Silicone in the grease will cause deterioration of the Silicone seals.

SEAL INSTALLATION
Strip any paint on the oil cooler that will come into contact with the oil cooler seals. Paint can and will blister and cause a leak.
Degrease and Clean the sealing surfaces with brake clean.
When installed, the seals need to be compressed between 10% and 40% of the initial seal thickness. So if you don't compress the seal at least 10% it can leak and if you compress it more than 40% it can leak.
Dry fit the oil cooler and seals. Without applying pressure, level the oil cooler to the seals by hand. Measure the distance between the oil cooler and the machined surface on the case where the seals are located with a combination of feeler gauges.
Note this measurement and multiply by 10% - 0.10 and 40% - 0.40. Example, dry fit is .100" .100"x.10 = 0.010" and .100"x.40=0.040" . So with the seals installed the measurement should be between 0.010"- 0.040" less than the dry fit measurement.
Glove up, if gloves are powdered, clean gloves with alcohol.
Clean the sealing surfaces and seals with 75% isopropyl alcohol and lint free pads.
Grease seals lightly. A thin film with an acid brush or your gloved finger will do.
Install seals, (spacers washers if needed), oil cooler, washers, wave washers and Nylon-Insert nuts.
Torque down oil cooler nuts evenly in 20 in/lb increments until you reach 60 in/lbs.


Misc.
Thanks to DragRacingTV

Link


Note:
New Red Seal on left.
Used Black Seal on right. They become compressed in service and take the profile of the oil cooler.
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Comparing seal to the open end of a 10mm wrench.
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RIS wrote:

Incorrectly installed oil cooler seals, came out of a customer's engine that was running hot after being built by a "professional" builder.
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Top left is correct, top right often comes in seals kits but is incorrect for T1 Doghouse application. Bottom 2 seals are what result if installed on a Doghouse cooler!


Last edited by Tcash on Wed Sep 27, 2017 7:58 am; edited 17 times in total
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Tcash
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Location: San Jose, California, USA
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 3:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

Amskeptic what are your thoughts about these two seals having the same part number?

Tcash wrote:
From left-right.
The first red seal and the third black seal come up when I search for:
111198151 Seal, Oil Cooler, Single Port, 8mm X 8mm 1946-69.
The Black seal is for the oil cooler with the stepped boss at the 6mm mounting studs.

Would I be right in saying that the red seal is for the early flat oil cooler with no stepped boss at the 6mm mounting studs?
Does anyone have the engine number when the change occurred?
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Thank you
Tcash
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 9:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing oil cooler seals Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
I always hate getting in a head knock with Colin. Tons of experience there. But....I have a ton of miles an experience with type 4's myself. I dont put forth information I dont know to be true. Is it correct?....hard to say with the years and variations. Far too many details on how these engines were built...assembly line technique etc....is not in the books.

I think what is going on here is that far too many people are assuming that :
A. The oil coolers are all the EXACT same dimensions
I agree. I have seen oil coolers with the mounting bosses that ranged from obviously being there to nothing.
B. That the cases are all machined to the EXACT same dimensions.
The Axis for 'Y' would be perpendicular to 'X' for all three seals. I would think they would cut that first before cutting the seal holes.
C. That (as people are mentioning) that the correct oil cooler seals are even the EXACT same dimension from make to make.
I am sure there is some tolerance. But how much are we talking about thousands?

I took some pictures for your perusal. I had to dig for a while to get both of these sets of parts up on the bench.
These are two engine cases from my collection of five on hand. Both of them are from type 4 cars.

The one dated 4-72 is from a 1972 411 (my very first car).

The second one dated 11-72 is from a 1973 412....my current two door that is about to get rebuilt.

Both of these cars I bought as the second owner...and i personally KNEW the first owner and have complete service history on both cars and engines. The 412's history is so complete that I have every scrap of paper ever generated on it back to the assembly line printout. It was picked up as a tourist car in Germany, driven in France and Norway and shipped back here by the Airforce.

The 411 was acquired at 55k miles running and driving.....and the 412 at about 75k miles not running. The engine had never been out of either according to the original owners and the paperwork.

ONE engine (the 412 case)......had the thick washers between the oil cooler and the case....from the factory. Neither had leaky oil coolers....the 412 had a leaking oil pressure switch and a leaking fan seal....all original.

However.....because of the differences in the coolers...coupled with the differences in the cases.... the cooler from the 11-1972 VW 412 ...will seal on the later 412 case using the washers. Without them the seals look like pancakes.
The 4-72 cooler from the 411 WILL SEAL on the earlier 411 case it came from....with no washers between cooler and case.

But...if you put the 411 cooler on the 412 case....it squishes the seals. If you put the 412 cooler on the 411 case the seals are too loose.
this can be judged easily by whether the seals can be rotated with any amount of pressure by using a pick when the cooler is installed using the washer between case and cooler.

Both cases are EA series.

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The gasket set I pulled the seals from is a 10 year old Victor Reinz set

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Seals

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The cases I am looking at. Both EA series.

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The FACTORY washers. If anyone thinks these are ordinary stamped washers....think again. These are double "blanked" or double stamped. Perfectly flat on both sides. No crowning whatsoever, and zinc plated. They are also about .070" thick ( I forgot to measure I will post actual thickness later). They are built like spacers Wink

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the 411 oil cooler 4-72 date stamp

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the 412 oil cooler 11-72 date stamp

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The early case with the washers and seals on it even though it came without them...just so you can see the spacer dimension difference next to the seal.

So....the amount of crush that will be applied to the seal...with these spacers installed....will largely be about the height of the bosses on the cooler itself...AND....THE HEIGHT OF THE THIRD BOSS ON THE CASE....WHICH MANY TIMES GIVES A SLIGHT AMOUNT OF TILT TO THE COOLER...AND GREATLY INCREASES/DECREASES CRUSH

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Make note...this is the 4-72 oil cooler from the 411. The bosses are thicker and the lip created by the lapped and welded cover plate are also slightly thicker as compared to the 4-12 cooler below.
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Make note: the boss areas where the 5mm rods 6mm studs are threaded in are all machined in one pass.
This would be my thought. So all three mounting surfaces would be perpendicular to each other.
I don't know if the seal recesses are bored before or after this pass....
They would have to be bored after. The depth of the bore should not be as much as a factor as with the earlier barrel seals. The lipped (flying saucer) seals. Seal on the lip sandwiched between the case and cooler.

but this is most probably where differences in seal fit come from.

Those differences in seal fit along with oil cooler differences an make the difference in the need for a "spacer" or not.
I think the variance lies in the oil coolers.

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This is the late case that came with washers as spacers between cooler and case.
Note the height of the machine work bosses arrowed.
The case rib would have no effect on the sealing surface. Even though the rib is lower the sealing surfaces are machined perpendicular to each other.

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This is the early case without spacers between cooler and case.....but they were present on the outside under the wavy washer.


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This is the early case without spacers between cooler and case.....but they were present on the outside under the wavy washer.

This is the early case. with no washers and the oil cooler that came with and the higher bosses. This cooler seal crushes enough that you cannot spin it without ripping it with a pick. Plenty of seal.

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This is the late case with late cooler and spacers between the cooler and case...again...the seal cannot be spun and has plenty of crush for sealing.

Definitive...uh...no.
Just goes to show that there are differences. I have chalked this one up long ago to one of the same problems I see on assembly lines of many types that I visit all the time.

A minor variation gets seen during the assembly process that come and goes. It may be a variation caused by component differences (like oil cooler variation or seal variation)...or one caused by an upstream machine process.

Either way its quick enough to fix and something that needs to be found on each engine by test fit during assembly (just like differences in piston pin fit wherein the employee keeps a range of pins in groups close by to work with the occasional tight or loose fitting pin that may be .0001" to ,0002" different... instead of calling quality control and making an engineering change.

I am...speculating...that enough come and go differences happened with oil cooler and seal fit....that they swapped in spacers instead of regular flat washers in the "kit" for this stage assembly. Depending on seal fit...they either go on the inside as spacers if needed or the outside as simple washers if not. No need to go calling anyone or digging around for a different cooler.

The fact that they are NOT using a NORMAL flat washer by any means....leads into this. I mean...come on...do you really think that a 6mm stud with 5-8 ft lbs on it requires a .080" thick washer? Wink

In both cases in my collection...I would say neither fit with or without spacer is perfect....one could be slightly more crush and one could be slightly less.
This is my view as well.
Both are perfectly functional. Ray


I have torn down engines with the spacer between the case and cooler with a big flat washer on the outside.
As well as no spacer between the case and cooler and the spacer washer on the outside.

I never gave it much thought. But Now that I have given this some thought. The question is how much Crush should the seal have?

Thank you for the right up.
Tcash
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